RichBad

1927/28 Dodge Brothers series 128/129 Tourer

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Steering link assembled and fitted.  Think I need a new ball joint for the front link.  I think the link has been modified at some stage as the front parts don’t look correct. Also missing the grease/dust covers.

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Tried the steering and feels pretty good.  Slightly tight in a couple of patches but I think that’s due to the front ball joint on the steering link.  Steering wheel play is much better having rebuilt the box, now ~1/4”!

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Fitted the rear axle although not attached as I need new springs.  

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Attached side step brackets (used bolts not rivets as that was easier for sandblasting and painting).

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side steps fit perfectly, just need to clean up the aluminium trim and attach with new rubber.

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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:

The visible ball hole in the drag link looks very warn. Can the ball pull out of it?

It seems pretty well secured, I think the draglink hole is not to bad.  I’m more worried about the ball as that’s worn quite a lot and is not round any more.  It’s worn so much that the bearing cups contact the ball stud part.

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If the ball is 1" diameter and the same as the Dodge 8, it is the same as a Chev ball. The Filling Station have them and so do Then & Now. I got mine from the latter, along with Chev seats and spring kits to fit both ends.

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Bother! the Master Parts List does not show the 128/129 in the drag link parts lists.

 

On the Dodge8, the dust cover over the drag link ball is a piece of leather with a hole in it and two metal covers held on with springs that go right round the drag link end.

 

You need to try the drag link ball in the end with no spring pressure on it. If it can pull out without much movement sideways, it is no good.

 

For the ball, you will need to measure the o.a. length, the bolt diameter and thread and the taper to see if the Chev or Then & Now items match.

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Gearbox done - we’ll almost.

 

All the parts except one

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Countershaft and reverse gear idler in position - 1 roller bearing at each end of the countershaft and thick spacer at front.

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Countershaft and reverse idler shafts fitted with locking plate to secure.  Output shaft bearing fitted to housing (I used a sealed bearing to reduce chance of leaks).  Bob, I still need a good countershaft if you have one - mine is very worn - I fitted temporarily with the wear groves facing down and figured I can swap the shaft later if you have a better one.

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Rear cover gasket and housing fitted and speedo drive installed.  I used a modern seal in the housing too.

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Output drive coupling installed to rear (note the park brake drum needs to go on with this and a couple of temporary nuts and bolts helps keep things together).  Drive coupling pressed into rear bearing and then install main gear shaft.  Note order of gears and washers.  Thick washer followed by the thin dished one (dished part facing forward).

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Main shaft washer and nut fitted and tightened - but need a bigger socket to tighten fully.

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Front cover fitted (will need to come back to that later:))

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Parking brake band fitted

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Park brake operating levers and adjusters fitted.

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Cover and parking brake fitted - note brake lever should be fitted to cover first and make sure that the gear lever and both selector shafts are in neutral before fitting the cover.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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18 hours ago, RichBad said:

Yup, it’s got a bend.  I thought it was wrong but it looks like it was made like that as it’s just a single bend in the middle.

The bend would be in the center if someone wrapped a tow rope/cable around the front axle and tie rod at the same time to tow it. I have never seen a tie rod bent in the center except from what I just described. Just a suggestion, but you may want to ask other owners of a DB like that to see if their tie rods are bent, too.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:

I hope you can get the input pinion in without removing very much?

Should go in from the front no problem, just have to remove the front cover.

i hope:)

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Yes the drag link is made that way with a bend as shown and Richard looks like i have to find you ball to ( ihave spare someware ) . Bob

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10 hours ago, robert b said:

Yes the drag link is made that way with a bend as shown and Richard looks like i have to find you ball to ( ihave spare someware ) . Bob

The bent tie rod is what I was referring to.

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I have not seen a bent tie rod like that either. It will make it hard to set the toe-in! I expect one end to be a left hand thread, the other to be right so turning the rod lengthens or shortens the tie.

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44 minutes ago, RichBad said:

No problem for adjusting as one end is fixed - no LH thread.

Now I'm confused. How do you adjust the toe-in?

 

It all looks beautiful too!

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Loosen adjusting clamp bolt, remove tie rod pin, turn link to adjust in or out, refit pin, tighten clamp bolt.  Not sure if all the Dodges are like that but it’s what mine has. One of the pictures above shows the adjuster.

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