RichBad

1927/28 Dodge Brothers series 128/129 Tourer

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14 minutes ago, RichBad said:

That's a big screen - what's the purpose of the metal shield around the outside of the screen - does it help stop oil surge?

Don't really know. The Olds pan is flat across the middle (where the screen/pump is) and then angles up on both ends. There are two baffles where the pan angles up on the inside with openings at each corner for oil flow. Don't really think there would be much surge from front to back movement but maybe from the crank rotation the shield prevents the crank from splashing or surging the oil away from the pump/screen and starving it. I'll ask my machine shop for his opinion. He's been doing these old motors for years and probably has an idea why it's there. He did comment on both the size of the pickup and the pump itself. He is impressed with the engineering on this block for the era. 

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i took some pichers man the bottom side of my doge is dirty sorry but i could open the hood and take pitchers from top to hope that  help s kyle tomarow

i could open hood and get closer i crawled under passenger side to take this 1929 doge brothers i finished this car when i was 14 years old  my grand paw owned a junk yard

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i took some pitchers man the bottom side of my doge is dirty sorry but i could open the hood and take pitchers from top to hope that  help s kyle tomarow

i could open hood and get closer i crawled under passenger side to take this 1929 doge brothers i finished this car when i was 14 years old  my grand paw owned a junk yard

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21 hours ago, sligermachine said:

man i need to clean this car up  is your door handels like this 

Thanks!  Mine is a tourer and the door handles are quite different.

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Sumpback from Galvanisers, came up pretty good.  Had to remove the inner oil tray and drain tube from the rear (they were not plated originally) otherwise it was easier than expected!

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Generator/dynamo done, just needs the fuse holder and replacement nameplate ( original was a bit of a mess).

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Got a fuseholder - pic below if anyone was wondering what it looks like

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)

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Steering box.  Modified with roller bearings on the sector shaft and modern oil seals on the input, sector shaft lower end.  Cleaned up the sector shaft teeth to remove play and provide even contact - took about 10 hours of grinding, polishing assembly and disassembly to get it just right.  Filled with semi fluid grease.

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Water pump done.  Drain tap broke but there were a few threads left so hopefully enough to keep it there.

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Differential rebuild.  All parts ready to go

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Differential pinion assembled with new bearings and modern neoprene seal 45mm x 85mm x 10 (CA-3221942R1).  Front nut tightened to remove free play then ~1 additional flat to provide pre-load.

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Modified inner seal holders to take modern neoprene seals (instead of felt) using the original housing with an aluminium adaptor. Used 1.43" x 2.06" x 0.31" seal 

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Modified the outer seal/bearing holder to take a modern neoprene seal.  Used 1.97" x 3" x 0.37" seal and modified rear wheel hubs to suit.

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Assembled differential and ring gear and wire-locked.  Bearings tightened to remove free play then two additional 'notches' to provide pre-load.

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Ring gear and pinion gear then adjusted to give best balance between backlash and noise in both directions - then checked mesh pattern with blue.  Went through about 20 adjustments - checking the mesh pattern each time - not easy on a worn diff!  Eventualy got the best I could and checked backlash was still ok - was ~ 0.006" which should be fine.

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All tightened and split pins in place ready for fitting to the case.

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Setting the rear bearing 'end float' by adjusting the spacer shims at each end - ended up with 2 x 0.020" shims on one side and 2 x 0.020" + 1 x 0.005" on the other to give 0.005" end play when all tightened up (measured with a dial gauge at one end).  Don't forget to ensure the bearings are fully home on the shafts before assembling and checking the end play.

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New bushes fitted and reamed for the brake rods (old ones were knackered).  Inner ends are OK but don't forget to fit felt's to the inner before installing the rods otherwise you'll have a lot of oil leaking out!  I soaked my felts in wax before installing (tip from Bob B to reduce oil leaks).

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Brake rods installed and levers re-riveted to place.

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Filled with 3.3l of nice thick gear oil and rear cover fitted (note filler plug goes in 6 O'clock position and apply thread sealer to all the threads or they will leak.  I added a small hole to one of the rear cover bolts (top right) as a breather (there is no where for these  diffsto vent otherwise which will result in the oil blowing out through the easiest way possible when the diff heats up (probably through the seals).  I may fit a copper tube to this at a later date if needed.

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Finished

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Progressing slowly.  Chassis all sorted but now trying to get the front fenders to fit (they had been repaired at some stage to fit a bent chassis) and sort out a few bad repairs from the past.

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Spent today making a battery tray as original was missing.  I think they were a ‘U’ shaped tray with a tube bolted to each side to stop left/right movement but I couldn’t find any good photos.  I made mine with sides and slightly wider that way I can fit a larger battery or use for extra tool storage :)

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chassis all ready for paint now so have started on some other items.  Disassembled the windscreen as glass needed replacing.  Glass broke (not a big deal as still useable as pattern) but the frame took quite a lot to get apart and also has quite a lot of rust.  Not sure if it will be repairable or if it’s still possible to get the extrusion and fabricate a new one?

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Started on the wheels.  Sanded all the spokes and 5 coats of marine spar varnish.  Probably could have done with new spokes but not that easy to find people who do them in Oz.  Hubs and rims powder coated and re-assembled.  One rear done three more to go.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Chassis and a few remaining parts back from the powder coater.  Can start putting it back together now :)

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I notice that the contract surface of your brake drums has been powder coated. This will have to be removed before final assembly. Have you read the discussion of this under "General Discussion"  above ?    -  Carl  

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8 hours ago, C Carl said:

I notice that the contract surface of your brake drums has been powder coated. This will have to be removed before final assembly. Have you read the discussion of this under "General Discussion"  above ?    -  Carl  

Contact surface is the outside of the drums not inside on these old boys.  Bands not shoes.

Cheers

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Chassis up on stands and ready to start re-assembly.  Thanks to Bob for helping with the chassis - fairly fundamental to starting the rebuild!

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new suspension bushes.

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Spring shackles fitted. Nothings as quick as it should be, I had a set of new pins but the diameter varies along the shaft so they wouldn’t fit the bushes.  Spent ages correcting them (hardened shafts) but now fit well.

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Routing the fuel line, wanted to get this in before I have too many other parts in the way.

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Rear brake balance bar fitted (note it attaches with special domed bolts that have a small raised feature that ‘bites’ into the chassis to stop them spinning when tightened.

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Rear engine mount fitted.  May remove this and install with the engine (when that’s ready) but good for holding everything together in the chassis.

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Steerig box attached to chassis.  Rear upper bolt also attaches the bracket for the rear bonnet/hood latch.  Three of the four mounting holes in the steering box are oversized to allow the column angle to be adjusted (slightly) to match the body.  Leave loose and tighten when fitted to body.

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Brake pedal assembly attached to rear engine mount.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Another wheel done, just the front two left.

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Spokes cleaned and sanded

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Sanding sealer and 5 coats of varnish.

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Spokes assembled to the rim

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Hub and drum attached

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Finished and fitted to rim/tyre.

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There's so much work to redoing the wood wheels correctly. I cannot remove any spokes on my Old's as the wheels were formed under heat and hydraulic pressure. Even today's wheelwrights don't want to mess with them much. Mine are close to final paint now but still a few hours left cleaning them up and prepping them.

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New battery box fitted (luckily still fits between the gearbox as I made it wider than standard).  Also strengthened the top of the battery box mounting brackets with an additional gusset as they always seem to break the top one.E7B73A84-7B98-4D45-A8B5-F346CA9D5977.jpeg.45bd75d3535cdf0e3830453294118207.jpeg

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new rear bump stops fitted

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Rear light attached

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Reassembling the clutch operating mechanism and pedal

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Rebuilding the gearbox cover/selector assembly.

 

Note: There is a detent fitted between the two selector shafts and must be fitted before installing the second shaft.  Also, the gear stick retaining spring is much much easier to fit before fitting the selector shafts but that also makes it quite difficult to rivet the selector forks to the shafts (found that the hard way:)).

 

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Selectors riveted to shafts (spring not fitted).

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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