RichBad

1927/28 Dodge Brothers series 128/129 Tourer

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Hi,

I thought I'd add some photos showing progress of my Dodge Tourer restoration.  When I started the restoration I found that there is plenty of knowledge and helpful people around but not a lot of information on line so I thought that this could help others doing any work on a similar model.

 

I purchased the car in December 2015, it was running (but only just) and over the course of the next year I sorted out some of the basics (brakes, carb, charging etc) so I could get it registered and drive it.  Mid 2017 (winter) I got a bit bored one weekend and decided to tear it down and restore it, the plan is to do in two parts.  First, the chassis, running gear and engine and then (probably the following winter) the Body.

 

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Converting steering box to modern seals and needle roller bearing.

 

Adaptor and seal for Throttle/timing controls

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Steering input shaft seal (housing machined to suit and new bush fitted).

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Output shaft ground to suit needle roller bearings and thrust bearing fitted (~3mm left at original diameter to provide better location for thrust bearing).

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Needle roller bearings fitted to housing (one each end)

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Oil seal for output shaft

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Finished box here - http://forums.aaca.org/topic/299339-192728-dodge-brothers-series-128129-tourer/?do=findComment&comment=1680110

 

 

Details of the bearing and seals (all from simply bearings Ltd):

2 x Sector shaft needle roller - HK2820-MB

Sector shaft thrust assembly - NTA1828 & TRA1828

Sector shaft oil seal - 28x40x8

Main shaft top seal - 25x40x6

Lower oil seal - 12.45x22x7 (needs adaptor to fit).

Main shaft upper bush - AI.1418-24.PL

Main shaft lower bush - AI.1418-16.PL

 

Sector shaft was ground to suit new bearing but with ~3mm left at original diameter to help locate the thrust bearing.

Edited by RichBad (see edit history)

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Pulling it apart

End of the first day

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A lot of nuts and bolts to clean up

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Parts ready for stripping and powder coating

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Chassis has a few poor repairs that need fixing - looks like cracks just behind the rear engine mounts (seems to be a weak point) and has had a front and rear end smash at some stage. 

I've fixed up the rear end OK, the section behind the rear engine mounts should be quite straightforward but the front is a bit of a mess (various bends, welds and plates that need to be fixed up)

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Photos of all the individual parts for cleaning/blasting and powder coating - Dodge parts powder coating_A2.pdf

 

 

Edited by RichBad (see edit history)

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Starting the rebuild

 

Detroit Lubricator Carburettor and spark arrestor/Air 'filter'

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North East Electric Co Horn - Model 3715C (Yes, I know it's a 12v and should be a 6v)

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North East Electric Co Starter motor Model 6404

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North East Electric Co Distributor TU 10826 (pot metal base just about holding together)

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Rear tail light

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Rear brake balance bar assembly

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Differential pinion assembly - converted to modern oil seal (85x45x10mm)

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Handbrake - had to make a new spring as the original snapped - not perfect but my first attempt at making a spring

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Radiator Fan hub - converted to run on sealed ball bearings (5/8" x 1-3/8") with aluminium adapter (retaining original shaft)

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Original gear knob fell apart when I tried to remove but managed to find a replacement that looks identical

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Startor motor switch and generator cut out

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Jack - I think its the correct version for the car?

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Brake pedal assembly, pivot bored and fitted with a bush.  Pedal and lever both keyed and riveted to shaft - belt and braces!

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Nice series of pictures.  Looks like you are doing a real great job.  Thanks for sharing.  I never knew until I saw the middle picture of your "plated and powder coated parts" that Dodge used "Mechanics" U-joints.  Learn something every day.  Keep us posted.

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3 hours ago, Tinindian said:

Nice series of pictures.  Looks like you are doing a real great job.  Thanks for sharing.  I never knew until I saw the middle picture of your "plated and powder coated parts" that Dodge used "Mechanics" U-joints.  Learn something every day.  Keep us posted.

Thanks.

It's the first time I've come across this type of UJ and haven't been able to find much info on them.  One of them is worn quite a lot and I wanted to find some parts but think I may have to make replacement parts or repair with some bushes and replacement shaft.

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I have not found any replacement pieces in 58 years of hunting.  I have one book "UNIVERSAL JOINTS  STEERING GEARS" 124B,  by the International Textbook Company in Scranton Pa 1931 date.   I will get the pages scanned and post them for you.  In the early 60's I cut my original joints off and replaced them with the common Spicer joints.

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4 hours ago, Tinindian said:

Nice series of pictures.  Looks like you are doing a real great job.  Thanks for sharing.  I never knew until I saw the middle picture of your "plated and powder coated parts" that Dodge used "Mechanics" U-joints.  Learn something every day.  Keep us posted.

 

 And what is a "Mechanics" U-joint?

 

  Ben

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1 hour ago, Tinindian said:

Some copy places get things out of order.  However we can cope.  Bottom of page 13 to top of page 16 will give you some information.  I was told by several machine shops that it was totally impossible to rebuild these joints.

https___webmail.telus.pdf

Thanks, that's very helpful.  I couldn't figure out how it would retain lubricant but from the manual it looks like some cork gaskets will sort that out.  

 

From what I can see rebuilding them shouldn't be a problem - the biggest issue I'll have will be if the pins on the main shaft are too worn as they could be very difficult to repair/replace.  The other pins should be no problem and for the trunnions I should be able to fit a sleeve where they are worn.

 

Im surprised no one makes replacement parts as the trunnions are quite simple and they would be the most likely parts to wear out.  Perhaps they weren't widely used and it's easier to just fit a modern UJ?

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I was told that the trunions were too hard to be machined.  These u joints were fairly common at one time.  Used on some Packards, Auburns, Oaklands, Dodges and Pontiacs.  I once saw a list of about twenty manufacturers that used "Mechanics" u joints but cannot find it now or remember all of them.  With the paper gasket between the two haves and good cork rings they didn't leak.  Once the were worn of course then the corks were pounded out so grease was used and of course there was more and more wear.

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18 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 And what is a "Mechanics" U-joint?

 

  Ben

Repeating the above posted question.

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3 hours ago, hidden_hunter said:

 

Same! I’m out in the south east - hope to see your car running about some time

Cool, I’m in Rowville so probably not that far. 

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On 30/09/2017 at 10:27 AM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 And what is a "Mechanics" U-joint?

 

  Ben

Photo below (not assembled to prop shaft & flange).

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Boyce motometer - had the rims and dogbone plated but couldn’t remove the thermometer from the body to get it plated (swaged in).  I think the body is pot metal so I tried polishing it and it came up pretty well.

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