RichBad Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 I made these ones my self (couldn’t find any repro ones). Only 15 for the block of rubber and a bit of my time 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 22, 2017 Author Share Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) Oil pump finished - picked thinnest gasket possible, resulted in ~ 0.002” end float on the gears. Anyone know what the front pipe is for - it just feeds to the other side of the mesh (bypassing the filter). I guess it was a crude bypass if the mesh becomes completely clogged - but if it got to that stage then the oil that it would be picking up wouldn't be great! Edited October 23, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 Just discussed this with my machine shop and we are also using the thinnest gasket material for close tolerances for better pressure. My 32' Olds 6 is a full pressurized system and even has rifle drilled rods for pump fed wrist pin lubrication. Because of this the whole motor's tolerances have to be tighter. The pickup screen on the Olds is about 6-7" in diameter much larger than most I've seen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazycars Posted October 23, 2017 Share Posted October 23, 2017 My God! What an undertaking! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 Shackles all finished. Rebored and bushed to take out the wear, zinc plated and painted. Thanks to Bob B for the parts, they look a bit different now:) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Very, very, nice. The way things should be done! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Thought you might appreciate this. Look at the size of my oil pump's pickup screen. It's a fully pressurized system that was ahead of it's time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 i have a 1929 4 door doge brothers . don't know if u need any thing pitchers demotions if it is close enuf for cross reference anyway kyle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 That's a big screen - what's the purpose of the metal shield around the outside of the screen - does it help stop oil surge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 15 minutes ago, sligermachine said: i have a 1929 4 door doge brothers . don't know if u need any thing pitchers demotions if it is close enuf for cross reference anyway kyle Thanks - I think the frame may be quite similar. Do you have any photos around the front cross member showing where it meets with the main frame? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 14 minutes ago, RichBad said: That's a big screen - what's the purpose of the metal shield around the outside of the screen - does it help stop oil surge? Don't really know. The Olds pan is flat across the middle (where the screen/pump is) and then angles up on both ends. There are two baffles where the pan angles up on the inside with openings at each corner for oil flow. Don't really think there would be much surge from front to back movement but maybe from the crank rotation the shield prevents the crank from splashing or surging the oil away from the pump/screen and starving it. I'll ask my machine shop for his opinion. He's been doing these old motors for years and probably has an idea why it's there. He did comment on both the size of the pickup and the pump itself. He is impressed with the engineering on this block for the era. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted November 6, 2017 Share Posted November 6, 2017 i took some pichers man the bottom side of my doge is dirty sorry but i could open the hood and take pitchers from top to hope that help s kyle tomarow i could open hood and get closer i crawled under passenger side to take this 1929 doge brothers i finished this car when i was 14 years old my grand paw owned a junk yard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 i took some pitchers man the bottom side of my doge is dirty sorry but i could open the hood and take pitchers from top to hope that help s kyle tomarow i could open hood and get closer i crawled under passenger side to take this 1929 doge brothers i finished this car when i was 14 years old my grand paw owned a junk yard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 man i need to clean this car up is your door handels like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 21 hours ago, sligermachine said: man i need to clean this car up is your door handels like this Thanks! Mine is a tourer and the door handles are quite different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 Sumpback from Galvanisers, came up pretty good. Had to remove the inner oil tray and drain tube from the rear (they were not plated originally) otherwise it was easier than expected! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted November 11, 2017 Author Share Posted November 11, 2017 (edited) Modern seals for the rear diff with machined adaptors to fit them to the existing felt retainers. Edited December 2, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 (edited) Generator/dynamo done, just needs the fuse holder and replacement nameplate ( original was a bit of a mess). Got a fuseholder - pic below if anyone was wondering what it looks like Edited March 4, 2018 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted December 15, 2017 Author Share Posted December 15, 2017 Steering box. Modified with roller bearings on the sector shaft and modern oil seals on the input, sector shaft lower end. Cleaned up the sector shaft teeth to remove play and provide even contact - took about 10 hours of grinding, polishing assembly and disassembly to get it just right. Filled with semi fluid grease. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted December 15, 2017 Share Posted December 15, 2017 better than new i say !!! kyle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Water pump done. Drain tap broke but there were a few threads left so hopefully enough to keep it there. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 Differential rebuild. All parts ready to go Differential pinion assembled with new bearings and modern neoprene seal 45mm x 85mm x 10 (CA-3221942R1). Front nut tightened to remove free play then ~1 additional flat to provide pre-load. Modified inner seal holders to take modern neoprene seals (instead of felt) using the original housing with an aluminium adaptor. Used 1.43" x 2.06" x 0.31" seal Modified the outer seal/bearing holder to take a modern neoprene seal. Used 1.97" x 3" x 0.37" seal and modified rear wheel hubs to suit. Assembled differential and ring gear and wire-locked. Bearings tightened to remove free play then two additional 'notches' to provide pre-load. Ring gear and pinion gear then adjusted to give best balance between backlash and noise in both directions - then checked mesh pattern with blue. Went through about 20 adjustments - checking the mesh pattern each time - not easy on a worn diff! Eventualy got the best I could and checked backlash was still ok - was ~ 0.006" which should be fine. All tightened and split pins in place ready for fitting to the case. Setting the rear bearing 'end float' by adjusting the spacer shims at each end - ended up with 2 x 0.020" shims on one side and 2 x 0.020" + 1 x 0.005" on the other to give 0.005" end play when all tightened up (measured with a dial gauge at one end). Don't forget to ensure the bearings are fully home on the shafts before assembling and checking the end play. New bushes fitted and reamed for the brake rods (old ones were knackered). Inner ends are OK but don't forget to fit felt's to the inner before installing the rods otherwise you'll have a lot of oil leaking out! I soaked my felts in wax before installing (tip from Bob B to reduce oil leaks). Brake rods installed and levers re-riveted to place. Filled with 3.3l of nice thick gear oil and rear cover fitted (note filler plug goes in 6 O'clock position and apply thread sealer to all the threads or they will leak. I added a small hole to one of the rear cover bolts (top right) as a breather (there is no where for these diffsto vent otherwise which will result in the oil blowing out through the easiest way possible when the diff heats up (probably through the seals). I may fit a copper tube to this at a later date if needed. Finished 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Progressing slowly. Chassis all sorted but now trying to get the front fenders to fit (they had been repaired at some stage to fit a bent chassis) and sort out a few bad repairs from the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Spent today making a battery tray as original was missing. I think they were a ‘U’ shaped tray with a tube bolted to each side to stop left/right movement but I couldn’t find any good photos. I made mine with sides and slightly wider that way I can fit a larger battery or use for extra tool storage 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted April 29, 2018 Author Share Posted April 29, 2018 chassis all ready for paint now so have started on some other items. Disassembled the windscreen as glass needed replacing. Glass broke (not a big deal as still useable as pattern) but the frame took quite a lot to get apart and also has quite a lot of rust. Not sure if it will be repairable or if it’s still possible to get the extrusion and fabricate a new one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 (edited) Started on the wheels. Sanded all the spokes and 5 coats of marine spar varnish. Probably could have done with new spokes but not that easy to find people who do them in Oz. Hubs and rims powder coated and re-assembled. One rear done three more to go. Edited May 5, 2018 by RichBad (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
51Baldeagle Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Wow! Great looking car, good job. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 Chassis and a few remaining parts back from the powder coater. Can start putting it back together now 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted May 11, 2018 Share Posted May 11, 2018 I notice that the contract surface of your brake drums has been powder coated. This will have to be removed before final assembly. Have you read the discussion of this under "General Discussion" above ? - Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 11, 2018 Author Share Posted May 11, 2018 8 hours ago, C Carl said: I notice that the contract surface of your brake drums has been powder coated. This will have to be removed before final assembly. Have you read the discussion of this under "General Discussion" above ? - Carl Contact surface is the outside of the drums not inside on these old boys. Bands not shoes. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 13, 2018 Author Share Posted May 13, 2018 (edited) Chassis up on stands and ready to start re-assembly. Thanks to Bob for helping with the chassis - fairly fundamental to starting the rebuild! new suspension bushes. Spring shackles fitted. Nothings as quick as it should be, I had a set of new pins but the diameter varies along the shaft so they wouldn’t fit the bushes. Spent ages correcting them (hardened shafts) but now fit well. Routing the fuel line, wanted to get this in before I have too many other parts in the way. Rear brake balance bar fitted (note it attaches with special domed bolts that have a small raised feature that ‘bites’ into the chassis to stop them spinning when tightened. Rear engine mount fitted. May remove this and install with the engine (when that’s ready) but good for holding everything together in the chassis. Steerig box attached to chassis. Rear upper bolt also attaches the bracket for the rear bonnet/hood latch. Three of the four mounting holes in the steering box are oversized to allow the column angle to be adjusted (slightly) to match the body. Leave loose and tighten when fitted to body. Brake pedal assembly attached to rear engine mount. Edited May 13, 2018 by RichBad (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 16, 2018 Author Share Posted May 16, 2018 Another wheel done, just the front two left. Spokes cleaned and sanded Sanding sealer and 5 coats of varnish. Spokes assembled to the rim Hub and drum attached Finished and fitted to rim/tyre. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted May 16, 2018 Share Posted May 16, 2018 There's so much work to redoing the wood wheels correctly. I cannot remove any spokes on my Old's as the wheels were formed under heat and hydraulic pressure. Even today's wheelwrights don't want to mess with them much. Mine are close to final paint now but still a few hours left cleaning them up and prepping them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 New battery box fitted (luckily still fits between the gearbox as I made it wider than standard). Also strengthened the top of the battery box mounting brackets with an additional gusset as they always seem to break the top one. new rear bump stops fitted Rear light attached Reassembling the clutch operating mechanism and pedal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) Rebuilding the gearbox cover/selector assembly. Note: There is a detent fitted between the two selector shafts and must be fitted before installing the second shaft. Also, the gear stick retaining spring is much much easier to fit before fitting the selector shafts but that also makes it quite difficult to rivet the selector forks to the shafts (found that the hard way:)). Selectors riveted to shafts (spring not fitted). Edited May 18, 2018 by RichBad (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 (edited) Front springs going on Edited May 19, 2018 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 19, 2018 Author Share Posted May 19, 2018 (edited) Front axle ready to fit new bump stops Fitting the steering knuckles Edited May 19, 2018 by RichBad (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 Steering link assembled and fitted. Think I need a new ball joint for the front link. I think the link has been modified at some stage as the front parts don’t look correct. Also missing the grease/dust covers. Tried the steering and feels pretty good. Slightly tight in a couple of patches but I think that’s due to the front ball joint on the steering link. Steering wheel play is much better having rebuilt the box, now ~1/4”! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted May 20, 2018 Author Share Posted May 20, 2018 Fitted the rear axle although not attached as I need new springs. Attached side step brackets (used bolts not rivets as that was easier for sandblasting and painting). side steps fit perfectly, just need to clean up the aluminium trim and attach with new rubber. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted May 20, 2018 Share Posted May 20, 2018 Beautiful work Rich - the attention to detail is fantastic! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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