Morgan Wright Posted July 28, 2021 Share Posted July 28, 2021 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted July 29, 2021 Author Share Posted July 29, 2021 8 hours ago, Morgan Wright said: 8 hours ago, Morgan Wright said: would it be too much to ask if you could possibly take some basic measurements of this subframe to give me a starting point to work from? It looks really nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted July 29, 2021 Share Posted July 29, 2021 I don't know from measurements. It came off the frame of a 1918 E-49 which it fit perfectly. . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Wise Posted August 1, 2021 Share Posted August 1, 2021 NZ Buick, Building a new wood frame is a major undertaking. If Morgan is prepared to part with that frame he has, it could save you years of work. The E49 body is a bit longer than the five seater, but it could be adapted. Otherwise, the best way is to tacweld the body together to get the correct shape and then make lots of ply pattens of all the parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted August 1, 2021 Author Share Posted August 1, 2021 Thankyou very much for all of these photos! It gives me an idea of what I’m in for. I’m not trying to set any speed records with this restoration so am not really concerned that it will take me a great deal of time to piece something together it’s all part of the adventure in my opinion. Plus I don’t think it is a viable option to attempt to ship such a bulky item out to NZ and expect it to survive the journey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 They shipped the Statue of Liberty from France to NY and it survived the journey. But they are pulling down statues now, so who knows? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted August 19, 2021 Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 Are there any 1918/19 crownwheels out there for sale? I’ve just opened my ‘new’ diff and there are teeth missing unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald w Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 hi morgan , i have a 1918 e-44 roadster with a rusted out engine hood and two left side panels beyond repair was wondering weither your spare part car hood may be available to purchase,I too live in new zealand and shipping is no barrier.have had my car running and driving,thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 I have an engine hood for you. Let me see what the side panels look like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 On 9/7/2021 at 9:23 PM, donald w said: hi morgan , i have a 1918 e-44 roadster with a rusted out engine hood and two left side panels beyond repair was wondering weither your spare part car hood may be available to purchase,I too live in new zealand and shipping is no barrier.have had my car running and driving,thanks Which panels are you after? I may have some that are salvageable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 Here's the hood. I need $50 for it, not because it's worth it, but because of the aggravation of finding enough pizza boxes to ship it in. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald w Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 Hi nz buick,thanks for your reply. I need the left upper bonent panel,and a right side lower panel with 12 louvers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted September 11, 2021 Share Posted September 11, 2021 The right side lower on mine has a little bit of rust-through Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald w Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 hi morgan thanks for the pictures of the hood it looks 100% better than mine.would be glad to pay $50.00 us for it. can we get in touch by email,and a rough idea on cost to ship south canterbury zip 7925 new zealand thanks again donald w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1939_Buick Posted September 12, 2021 Share Posted September 12, 2021 (edited) 18 hours ago, donald w said: hi Morgan thanks for the pictures of the hood it looks 100% better than mine.would be glad to pay $50.00 us for it. can we get in touch by email,and a rough idea on cost to ship South Canterbury zip 7925 New Zealand thanks again donald w Shipping odd shaped bits from USA can be horrendously expensive Have not used them, but these guys have been used by others in NZ https://www.kiwishipping.co.nz/ Edited September 12, 2021 by 1939_Buick (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted September 12, 2021 Author Share Posted September 12, 2021 On 9/10/2021 at 10:19 PM, donald w said: Hi nz buick,thanks for your reply. I need the left upper bonent panel,and a right side lower panel with 12 louvers. I will have a look at what I have and let you know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 On 9/11/2021 at 8:55 PM, donald w said: hi morgan thanks for the pictures of the hood it looks 100% better than mine.would be glad to pay $50.00 us for it. can we get in touch by email,and a rough idea on cost to ship south canterbury zip 7925 new zealand thanks again donald w Just to make sure my hood fits yours, I looked it up, and all E-H-K hoods for 6 cylinder are the same part number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Wise Posted September 15, 2021 Share Posted September 15, 2021 Its strange they have the same part number as the 1918 hood/bonnet was different to the 1919 and 1920. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AussieBuick Posted September 16, 2021 Share Posted September 16, 2021 Note the paint colors in the remarks section ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald w Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 hi morgan engine hood was just what I looking for and freight costs were reasonable shame you sold it to another member has any other buick owners out there got any side pannels or top panels they are willing to part with.thaks donald w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 Bit more progress, chassis all blasted and painted and managed to find a spare bit of time to sit the motor in place. Feels good to see something coming together finally! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share Posted November 21, 2021 What is the difference between these radiator shroud mounts? Can they be interchanged? Which are correct for a 1918/19? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted December 5, 2021 Author Share Posted December 5, 2021 I think I may have figured out my radiator bracket issue. It would appear to me that perhaps 1918 had the cast brackets and a shorter radiator and 1919 the pressed steel type brackets with a taller radiator. Can anyone tell me if this is correct or am I completely wrong? I seem to have two different radiators and need to be sure which one to use on my tourer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Wise Posted December 6, 2021 Share Posted December 6, 2021 My 1920 has pressed brackets. My understanding is that 1919 and 1920, there were no changes between the two years. Not sure when they changed from cast to pressed brackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted January 8, 2022 Author Share Posted January 8, 2022 On 12/7/2021 at 8:36 AM, Rod Wise said: My 1920 has pressed brackets. My understanding is that 1919 and 1920, there were no changes between the two years. Not sure when they changed from cast to pressed brackets. What is the overall height of your 1920 radiator Rod? The shroud I have with the cast brackets is quite a lot shorter than the others and seems to match my father’s 1916. I’m pretty sure I’m right to stick with the taller one with pressed brackets for my 1919 although the coolant outlet pipe off the engine doesn’t align very nicely with the radiator inlet. I guess I’ll find out the hard way if I’m wrong when it comes to lining up my bonnet between cowl and radiator later down the track. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Wise Posted January 11, 2022 Share Posted January 11, 2022 NZ Buick 715mm, The shorter shroud is possibly a 4 cylinder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted January 29, 2022 Author Share Posted January 29, 2022 Just received the new gear set for my diff. Absolutely stoked with how they have come up and should be a perfect solution for what was looking like an unsolvable issue after 3 diffs all with broken teeth! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 Well they fitted in perfectly! A bit more setting up and my diff will be ready to work again for the next 100 years! A huge leap forward for my project! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 On 9/12/2018 at 3:25 PM, NZ Buick said: .... have managed to find a ball bearing of very similar dimensions that I have managed to graft into place. Will be interesting to see if this is a success or not! I just ran across this thread - not being a "Buick" guy but always interested in brass and teens cars. I would be very careful about the use of ball bearings for rollers. If the outer race is harder than the surface of the camshaft — which was almost certainly only surface hardened — those ball bearings will destroy the cam lobes as soon as the hardened surface wears through. You'd be far better off with solid rollers that are not hardened as they will be far easier to replace than a camshaft. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 How many leaves should the rear springs of a 1919 Tourer have? I have two pairs of springs in my pile of bits one is much lighter that the other. I’m assuming the lighter are for a Roadster or possibly for a four cylinder car and the heavier are the ones for the Tourer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldtech Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 I would think... lighter ones for open cars, heavier for sedans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 NZ Buick, I think that you should think twice and think very hard again about using a ball bearing in the roller lifter assemblies in your engine. You DO NOT want to run two hardened materials against each other in a situation like this. It is this persons opinion that this is a recipe for disaster with regard to the camshaft. At first glance a person might think that this is a really slick thing to do, but if you do this, you are inviting trouble in the end. I hope that someone with metallurgical experience will chime in on this. Please do not do this. Mr. Marr and his engineers at the time had things figured out really well. Do no try to re-invent the wheel here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 3 hours ago, Oldtech said: I would think... lighter ones for open cars, heavier for sedans. I would agree with that thinking only I have no sedan parts in my pile only tourer and roadster. I can only assume the tourer needs the heavier ones for carrying passengers over the rear axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted April 1, 2022 Author Share Posted April 1, 2022 1 hour ago, Terry Wiegand said: NZ Buick, I think that you should think twice and think very hard again about using a ball bearing in the roller lifter assemblies in your engine. You DO NOT want to run two hardened materials against each other in a situation like this. It is this persons opinion that this is a recipe for disaster with regard to the camshaft. At first glance a person might think that this is a really slick thing to do, but if you do this, you are inviting trouble in the end. I hope that someone with metallurgical experience will chime in on this. Please do not do this. Mr. Marr and his engineers at the time had things figured out really well. Do no try to re-invent the wheel here. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas AACA Life Member #947918 Hi Terry, It certainly has to be a sign that numerous people of different backgrounds have suggested this is not a good idea. I have set a goal of trying to start this engine by the end of the year so still have plenty of time to refit solid rollers if I need to. I’ve kept everything i need to do this and at least it can be done without tearing the whole engine down again! Once I’ve done a little more research I’ll make a choice. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 You can't just say tourer vs. sedan. The 45 is a tourer and so is the 49 but they have different wheelbase. I know nothing except my E49 which is the same as the H and K 49 has 11 leaves in the rear springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rod Wise Posted April 1, 2022 Share Posted April 1, 2022 My 1920 roadster has 11 leaves in the rear springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raydurr Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 My initial concern of using ball bearings in the valve train is that the bearing lacks the ability to endure the impact that valve train components must endure, largely due to valve lash. I have seen bearing races shatter due to impact and shock loading , a non ferrous bushing would have survived. Softer metals such as brass, bronze and copper wear faster BUT they are superior in absorbing impact loading. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted April 2, 2022 Author Share Posted April 2, 2022 23 minutes ago, raydurr said: My initial concern of using ball bearings in the valve train is that the bearing lacks the ability to endure the impact that valve train components must endure, largely due to valve lash. I have seen bearing races shatter due to impact and shock loading , a non ferrous bushing would have survived. Softer metals such as brass, bronze and copper wear faster BUT they are superior in absorbing impact loading. My theory when I did it was the cam lobes in these engines are so gentle and valve springs so soft that I would get away with it. My main goal was to attempt to reduce a bit of friction and be sure the rollers were perfectly round. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZ Buick Posted April 2, 2022 Author Share Posted April 2, 2022 4 hours ago, Rod Wise said: My 1920 roadster has 11 leaves in the rear springs. The springs that were on my chassis which I’m sure is a H45 Tourer are 15 leaves and seem really heavy and the springs In the mountain of parts are 8 leaves but I have a feeling may be off a 4 cylinder car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted April 2, 2022 Share Posted April 2, 2022 You need to talk to people with your actual model car, or resort to the parts catalogue. 15 leaves? No way. 8? No way either. You still haven't told us whether you got a model 45 or 49. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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