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1964 Olds Dynamic 88 disc brake conversion


Guest Dora

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  I am looking for a disc brake conversion kit for my Olds Dynamic 88. I had ordered one from "Classic Disc Brakes" they are a JOKE. The kit was supposed to ship in 7 to 10 business days, after 6 weeks I still don't have the kit. I got my money back (after contacting my credit card) Where can I find a reputable business that will have what I need? I have searched all over the internet and can't find anything. Any info would be appreciated, thank you

Edited by Dora (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, Dora said:

  I am looking for a disc brake conversion kit for my Olds Dynamic 88. I had ordered one from "Classic Disc Brakes" they are a JOKE. The kit was supposed to ship in 7 to 10 business days, after 6 weeks I still don't have the kit. I got my money back (after contacting my credit card) Where can I find a reputable business that will have what I need? I have searched all over the internet and can't find anything. Any info would be appreciated, thank you

 

The full size Oldsmobiles from the early 60s are not that popular to modify, so few vendors sell conversion kits.  Impala kits do not work - the Olds uses different spindles.  People who use the Scarebird kit seem to be happy with it, but understand that this is really just brackets.  You need to source all the other parts, which are readily available at auto parts stores.  You will also need to bend and route your own brake lines.  They do provide a parts list for the stuff you have to go get.

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My thought exactly. I used to own a 1960 Buick Electra. Once rebuilt, the brakes were excellent. On the UK annual roadworthiness test, it would stop the rollers on the brake test. Admittedly, drums will fade out sooner than discs, but are you really going to drive your 60 year old collector car that aggressively?

 

Just my thoughts. It is your car to do as you please. of course.

Adam..

Edited by Alfa (see edit history)
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Wow, four whole days before someone complained about a disc brake conversion question.  :rolleyes:

 

And yes, I DO drive my half-century old collector cars that aggressively - and daily.  More to the point, my real concern is the clowns in the newer vehicles (typically SUVs) who will dive in front of you if you so much as leave 80% of a car length buffer zone, forcing you to slam on the brakes.  THIS is why I want the best brakes possible.

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We thought about sticking with the original drum brakes (and we might still) We are wanting the stopping power of the disc brakes. The car has been in the family since 1980 and has always had brake issues. I want something reliable and dependable. 

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Thanks Larry.

We bought the car off of my step-dad recently, He had the brakes go out twice, I think once was a line and once the brake booster. It has been several years ago We dug her out of the garage, she hasn't been started in 5 or more years and has zero brakes on it. We have decided to put drum brakes back on it. We are putting a dual master cylinder on it. (Hubby said a 75 Delta 88 master cylinder should work .) We ordered all new wheel cylinders. the brake booster seems to still be in good shape. (it was rebuilt several years ago) We are planning on all new brake lines too. Any helpful info is appreciated. Thank you

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1 hour ago, Dora said:

Thanks Larry.

We bought the car off of my step-dad recently, He had the brakes go out twice, I think once was a line and once the brake booster. It has been several years ago We dug her out of the garage, she hasn't been started in 5 or more years and has zero brakes on it. We have decided to put drum brakes back on it. We are putting a dual master cylinder on it. (Hubby said a 75 Delta 88 master cylinder should work .) We ordered all new wheel cylinders. the brake booster seems to still be in good shape. (it was rebuilt several years ago) We are planning on all new brake lines too. Any helpful info is appreciated. Thank you

 

The brake booster won't make the brakes go out.  All it will do if it goes bad is cause higher pedal pressure to be required to stop the car.  The brakes work when the engine is not running and there is no vacuum, so a bad booster is exactly the same thing,

 

The 1975 master cylinder will NOT work for two reasons.

 

First, there was no 1975 Olds that did not have front disc brakes.  The 75 D88 master is configured for these disc brakes.  That means that the piston diameter may be wrong and the front brake port does not have the residual pressure valve required for drum brakes. 

 

Second, the 1975 master cylinder has a shallow hole in the back for the short pushrod used on 1967-up power boosters.  Your 1964 power booster has a long pushrod that will bottom the M/C piston.  The correct dual circuit M/C to use with your booster is the 1962-1966 Cadillac M/C.  Raybestos P/N MC36373, available from RockAuto for about $63. 

 

 

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Well that is excellent knowledge and experience from Joe. I am impressed, sir!!

 

Dora, I think you are right to stick with the original brake set-up, but to make sure that everything is as the maker intended. Definitely replace the metal brake pipes and the flexible hoses!

 

Adam.. 

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