jan arnett (2) Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 My crank shaft pulley has a chunk out of it. V 6YK 202 is on the inside of the casting. This is a continental engine 640Y and was used on many cars. Thanks for your help Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 Is there a seal over the hub? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted August 28, 2017 Author Share Posted August 28, 2017 no seal and I am looking at putting a sleeve over the broken stub to hold in place. Maybe some JB Weld to keep in place or pin it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 JB the broken piece and use the pulley as a pattern to get a new one cast. I'm guessing the small amount of shrinkage will not matter.......................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Forget the JB........ Sweat a STEEL sleeve over the hub and drive the wheels off of it. Properly done will require no welding or other goop fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Does the OD of the broken section go into the timing gear cover? If so, you can't increase the OD. JB Weld is a "cheap & nasty" fix that will probably not last a week. I wouldn't touch the stuff with a 10-foot pole. Gluing the piece in and having a new one cast it the best idea but won't be cheap as you'll then have to find someone to machine it. How thick is the front section? It might be possible to bore the broken piece out and press in a new steel center. Does the center piece have a key way? Depending on what the sheave part of the hub is made of, it could be welded in place or brazed. I tend to favor brazing because stress on the part is minimal and brazing heat is much less likely to warp the piece. You could even broach the bored out hole and add a woodruff key if there is enough room. How about a photo from the front... that will tell us more. If the wall thickness is small, I'd consider boring it out and making a new center with a flange that can be attached with 6 or 8 Grade socket head cap screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan Saxton Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Nickel bronze is what I would use for that: It is an excellent high bond strength material. When used on cast iron, and tested to destruction, failure is neither in the braze nor the material interface, but in the parent cast iron. You use a soft acetylene-rich flame The job does not get hot enough to form brittle iron carbides. You can skim the outside and sleeve it if you like, but it should not be necessary. Tom Reese' restoration methods and philosophies is Antique Automobile of the 60s-70s are worth studying. His presentation of the war-time army field repair protocol, "Inspect; Repair or Replace As Necessary " is good sense and good economy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bud Tierney Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Just out od curiosity, is 640Y cleat on your engine tag??? Catalogs show a Cont'l 6Y for some 23 Moons, apparently superceded by the 7U, but I've not heard of a 640 Y designation before (not hat there arem''t lots of things I've never heard of)...;. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 Bud you bring up an interesting item on the 1923 Moon. The difference between as 6Y engine and the 7U engine are subtle and consist of a different water inlet on the head and a different oil pump in the timing gear cover. If you order a 6Y or 7U gasket from Sandy Olsen they are both the same. The 6Y engine came first and then the 7U. My engine tag says 11956Y and the body tag says Y640 for the Model Number. P.S. I have sent the pulley out to see about getting it welded. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted October 12, 2017 Author Share Posted October 12, 2017 I thought I would follow up with the responders to my request and let you know what happened. A friend welded the broken piece back in and then chucked it in a lath and trued the surface. He then turned a thin sleeve which I locktite onto the pulley. I just got it installed and so far it looks good. Thanks for all suggestions. Jan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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