Imperial62

1988 - How to get to Power Window Switch

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Can someone tell me how to remove the console top covers so I can get to the switch to check for power?    Do I need to remove the shifter?  Because if so I may have issues as previous owners put black electrical tape all around the shifter.  I assume to keep in place. 

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Here is a post by a member some years ago.  Hope this helps.  The only thing I will add, there is a spring under the shift knob.  Be careful not to let it fly out when removing the knob.  Also, be sure to remove the electrical connection plug to the electroluminescent panel on the shift quadrant so the quadrant panel is not in the way.  As I recall, the wire is not very long and disconnecting it will allow you to set aside the quadrant.

 

First remove the shifter knob. There's a little "U" shaped clip on the front you'll have to pull out with needle nose pliers. You may have to take the car out if gear to get to it.

Next the rectangular black trim piece that holds the shift indicator will snap out with a little pressure. 

Once that is removed, there will be two T-15 screws up at the front of the console (where you removed the rectangular piece from). Remove those.

Next open up the ash tray and take out the two Phillips head screws.

Once all the screws are removed, it should easily pop out with you fingers.

Edited by Howard (see edit history)
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Without consulting the service manual.......1988 & '89's have removable sides on the console.

You need to look in the carpet and you will find the screws. If you take one side off, I suspect you can change the window switch.  

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Through the top of the console is the easiest way to the switches. Howard has good info...

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23 hours ago, Howard said:

Here is a post by a member some years ago.  Hope this helps.  The only thing I will add, there is a spring under the shift knob.  Be careful not to let it fly out when removing the knob.  Also, be sure to remove the electrical connection plug to the electroluminescent panel on the shift quadrant so the quadrant panel is not in the way.  As I recall, the wire is not very long and disconnecting it will allow you to set aside the quadrant.

 

First remove the shifter knob. There's a little "U" shaped clip on the front you'll have to pull out with needle nose pliers. You may have to take the car out if gear to get to it.

Next the rectangular black trim piece that holds the shift indicator will snap out with a little pressure. 

Once that is removed, there will be two T-15 screws up at the front of the console (where you removed the rectangular piece from). Remove those.

Next open up the ash tray and take out the two Phillips head screws.

Once all the screws are removed, it should easily pop out with you fingers.

im having trouble with my window switch too.plus my power mirrors have never worked.

 

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A careful dissection and cleaning of contacts is in order. 1K sandpaper, then tin with solder. The raw copper contacts are susceptible to ozone corrosion, making a light brown or greenish non conductive coating. The type and location of those switch pods isn't really ideal. I had to do both of mine- and now work better than new.

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Thanks all.  I will carefully look into the shifter issue on Monday.  I am moving a daughter to Pittsburgh right now.  I have no idea what I will find when I start removing the layers of black electrical tape. 

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20 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

A careful dissection and cleaning of contacts is in order. 1K sandpaper, then tin with solder. The raw copper contacts are susceptible to ozone corrosion, making a light brown or greenish non conductive coating. The type and location of those switch pods isn't really ideal. I had to do both of mine- and now work better than new.

i think im just going to go with the wrong color replacement switch.anyone know what car to buy one for that will fit?btw my mirror switch doesn't have power for it.my shop manual says body fuse two is what its on but the fuse is good.

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Have you done the under seat splices? (both seats) Is there power to the fuse? That's a pretty short distance- have you tried jumping 12v to the mirror switch? Make the mirrors work directly?

 

Here's some choices for windows:

 

Contact one of our Vendors here (Jim Finn, DAVES89, KDirk)

 

If you find the OEM parts number- this is advertised as "correct" HERE

 

Go by the posted measurements of THIS SETUP and maybe with a little "trimming"...?

 

Or- cut out a hole in your arm rests, and get THIS  (includes mirror controls)

 

Stuff to think about...

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  1. My "power" mirror switch does not work either. So, my daughter and I hand adjusted the outside mirrors.  I have power mirrors in all my modern cars and never use that switch.    I get why it's included in the power accessories, but I am not sure it's a priority for me.

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29 minutes ago, Imperial62 said:
  1. My "power" mirror switch does not work either. So, my daughter and I hand adjusted the outside mirrors.  I have power mirrors in all my modern cars and never use that switch.    I get why it's included in the power accessories, but I am not sure it's a priority for me.

mine hasn't worked since i got the car.since i pulled apart the console to get to the window switch im looking at the mirror switch too.

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1 hour ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

Have you done the under seat splices? (both seats) Is there power to the fuse? That's a pretty short distance- have you tried jumping 12v to the mirror switch? Make the mirrors work directly?

 

Here's some choices for windows:

 

Contact one of our Vendors here (Jim Finn, DAVES89, KDirk)

 

If you find the OEM parts number- this is advertised as "correct" HERE

 

Go by the posted measurements of THIS SETUP and maybe with a little "trimming"...?

 

Or- cut out a hole in your arm rests, and get THIS  (includes mirror controls)

 

Stuff to think about...

i think i remember  someone saying another gm switch will work but doesn't match.i hate to buy another 28 year old used switch.

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all the fuses except the one marked heated mirror have power.i added power to that fuse and still no power to the switch.i googled and think the problem is a bad connection in the floor.

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Sorry, I have not had to work on my windows switches. I have had the sides off my console and there is lots of access to wiring under there. But I have not looked at that stuff closely since I have not had any issues with  Mirror or Window switches. Good maintenance is to pull both seats and re-do all the splices under there. I have done that on my 88.

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its very easy to go through the top IF you can get the shifter knob off.or you can twist the shifter plate all around and it will clear the console cover as i did.there are five screws that hold the bracket that holds the window and mirror switches.

Edited by handmedownreatta (see edit history)
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19 hours ago, Dashmaster said:

Sorry, I have not had to work on my windows switches. I have had the sides off my console and there is lots of access to wiring under there. But I have not looked at that stuff closely since I have not had any issues with  Mirror or Window switches. Good maintenance is to pull both seats and re-do all the splices under there. I have done that on my 88.

Dashmaster:

It may not be the switch.  That is just where I want to start.  My drivers switch works, up and down no issues.  When I got the Reatta the passenger window went down. It did not go up.   I my say, these switches are a bad design and likely a parts bin carry over from other GM but I don't know.

 

They are very thin long push switch areas when ever since, all brands have beefier finder push areas.    That might sound picky but using a dainty switch like this - to me - would wear their contacts out quicker than one where the "load" is spread out more. 

 

Old receipts show the passenger side window regulator and / or motor has been replaced in the last 6 years. 

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