New Member / Old Dodge / Many Questions

[DB26]

Hello Everyone. I am please to introduce myself here as the proud new owner of a 1926 Dodge Brothers sedan. My name is Robert, I live in Southern California and I just picked the car up from Oregon. Here she is here:

 

As expected I have a million questions and will start right off with them. First off Is there a choke? I purchased a maintenance manual and cannot find a reference to a choke. The second question related to that would be, Does this thing have or require an air cleaner. It appears to suck unfiltered air from the exhaust side. Here are a few pictures:

 

Now, along the lines of a choke and such, whats the deal with this lever? I cant tell if its factory or not. Its hooked to a knob inside the cab.

 

And speaking of knobs inside the cab, I have found out that the throttle control lever attached to steering wheel has been disconnected. You can see evidence of that in the picture of the engine. I found this in a box of parts, Is this the old knob?

 

And here is the box of parts, anything worth identifying?

 

I've learned about the oil level indicator, but i think my float is leaky. At least I hope. Anyone have a good alternative to checking the oil level? I do have oil pressure, and i can see some through the breather tube...

 

Here are some holes in the firewall I cant explain"

 

My mechanical advance and retard has very minimal movement, and I'm wondering if this is normal. Here's a video:

 

And lastly (for now) Is the radiator pressurized or not? I have a Motometer (that's broken, mercury is gone) and it doesn't fit very air tight. Its missing a gasket, but even then it wouldn't be air tight i don't think.

 

Oh, and does anyone have a set screw for the wires that enter the brake light assembly? I can get a pic if needed. There about the size of an ant and I lost one of mine while tinning new tips on my wires. Thanks

 

Well, that does it for now. Ill have many more question as the weeks months and years come. I'm already thinking of some now.

Edited August 6, 2017 by DB26 (see edit history)

[nearchoclatetown]

First of all welcome and you bought what appears to be a very nice car. Not sure what maintenance manual you bought but find a Book of Information for your car. It will answer most of your questions. The Book of Information is what DB called the owner's manual. Go to the DBClub website and  look in the list where it says Book of Information. By using your serial number you can determine when the car was built. You want the manual printed as soon before your car was built to be the most accurate. The AACA library stores the club literature and can send you a copy of the correct manual for a few bucks. You don't have to be an AACA member to use the library. The broken knob you found in the box is a window winder's knob. There is no air cleaner and yes there is a choke, I don't see a cable in your picture. You also appear to have an electric fuel pump. with lots of filters and regulators.  I would eliminate that and use the vacuum tank, which is still on your engine, the black round tank with Stewart cast in the top. Your engine appears to be about out of oil. When you change it, SOON, and put in the correct amount of oil, in the Book of Info, take note of how high the float rod is. You may even want to mark the block with a Sharpie. Your linkage may be worn so that is the reason the advance does not move much.The radiator is not pressurized. There is also a modern replacement coil. The original attaches to the back of the distributor and is available from Myers Early Dodge Parts in Michigan. Join the DBClub, you will find many DB owners in Calif. We have a National Meet every summer, next year in Wisconsin. 

[DB26]

Thank you for all the great info. I'll get myself a book of information.

 

Where does the choke cable hook up?

 

And here is my vacuum canister. It appears they bent it adding the fuel regulator. You think it's repairable?

 

And here  is what I currently have:

[72caddy]

Choke cable connects to the very bottom of the carb. The cable ends goes through the hole in the rod. I see the carb connection and hole that the cable goes through in your photo.

[nearchoclatetown]

In your second post of pictures look at the first picture. Where the manifold attaches to the carb there is a small bent metal holder that should be turned 90 degrees. The cable attaches through the loop of it then tighten the clamp screw. The wire cable goes to the brass piece with the round head screw in the end at the bottom of your picture.  The choke knob should be on the left side of your dashboard hat operates this. The cable appears to be freewheeling in the wind up by the throttle linkage , is not attached to anything right now. 

[cahartley]

The "choke" really isn't a choke in the conventional sense at least.

What that "choke" does is open the gas needle to flood the carburetor.

It's actually a neat system and works very well.

The return spring on the carburetor looks pretty light to me.

The spring needs to be strong enough to fully return the lever all the way because that valve is also how adjust the mixture.

The knurled nut is for adjusting the mixture.

Its adjustment is opposite of what you are probably used to.

[DB26]

Ah I see it now. Makes sense. Thanks for the help so far everyone. 

[ArticiferTom]

Your holes in cowl / dash where probability an aftermarket heater for the cab . This is the common location . You may even find capped up taps to the water system .  Good Luck .

[DB26]

5 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:

Your holes in cowl / dash where probability an aftermarket heater for the cab . This is the common location . You may even find capped up taps to the water system .  Good Luck .

I'll take a peek. 

[EricHoman]

Congratulations! You will find that the people here are very helpful. My Dodge is a '25 and there are a few differences from yours, primarily it looks like yours is the 6 volt electrical system with a seperate starter/generator where mine is a 12 volt with starter generator all in one.

 

Because of this a couple of items are layed out a bit different, but I have attached a picture of my engine bay so that you can see how that vacuum tank is hooked up if you choose to get yours going again. Ignore the rubber black hose coming from the top of my tank as that goes to an older but not original wiper motor.

 

Check out http://www.myersearlydodge.com/ for parts, they have a lot. It looks like you already have the Mechanics Instruction Manual which is great, but I would also recommend getting one the "Book of Information" as well. I have both and each book seems to be a bit more detailed in different areas.

 

In regards to your distributor, my retard/advance is not any more than yours.

Edited August 7, 2017 by EricHoman (see edit history)

[DB26]

Very informative pictures. This will help tremendously. Thank you for all the great advice and info. 

 

On on the topic of the oil level indicator. The previous owner told me he just did an oil change. 5 quarts of non detergent 30 weight. I kinda sorta trust him, so I'll still investigate a leaky oil float.   

 

Another question that has come to light is. What kind of bulbs go in the tail light? Here's the light:

 

 

The top light seems to light fine. And I hope it's a 6v. But the bottom bulb was loose. Here's a closeup of that:

 

and the bulb:

 

The light they were using is a single filament duel contact. The light does not use the base for ground. The light only lights with the two contacts electrified. I think this might be the wrong one. Any input? 

 

And on the topic of this tail light. Does anyone know where to get a replacement screw for the tail light wire harness? I lost mine. 

Edited August 8, 2017 by DB26 (see edit history)

[nearchoclatetown]

DB26 do yourself the favor of believing the previous owner JUST changed the oil, BUT drain it and measure it carefully and KNOW that it has 5 quarts in it. Those floats do leak but then it should sink the whole way to the bottom. DO NOT take the chance it is low. Erichoman, that little " hat" on top of your oil rod is VERY hard to find. Most of them are laying along a road somewhere. 

[Spinneyhill]

And when you have drained and measured that oil, recycle the oil and put in a 5W or 10W-30 oil. Non-detergent is old technology, inferior oil and will result in the engine filling up with muck and wearing faster.

[DB26]

Okay. I will drain and refill before I start it again. 

[Spinneyhill]

2 hours ago, DB26 said:

And on the topic of this tail light. Does anyone know where to get a replacement screw for the tail light wire harness? I lost mine.

 

You may find something in modern electrical fittings. Maybe even the connecting blocks where you push a wire into one side and screw down the screw, then a wire in the other side and tighten the other screw.

[JACK M]

Those drawer bins at the Ace hardware have those tiny screws.

[Ron Lawson]

Robert, Congratulations and welcome to the DB Family. The Globes in the tail light should be 6 volt single contact. The tail light globe being 6 volt 5 watts and the stop light 6 volt 15 watts  Tom and Cindy at Myers Early Dodge have the gasket sets for those lights. Are you missing the curved  lens in the bottom for the license plate ? They may also have new plugs to fit into the back of the light

[David_Leech]

If I could afford everything I want / need from Myers Early Dodge, I would be bankrupt and they could retire

[Ron Lawson]

David, I think that we are all like you. We  are very lucky  to have a supplier of these old parts Down here in Australia the pickings are much scarcer and more expensive.I wish I was rich enough to carry a supply of parts that would be beneficial to our car hobby  but my friend I am like you and many others in the old car movement 

[DB26]

Thank you thank you thank you! 

 

I will be doing some work to the car on Thursday. I think I'll attempt the oil change first. Now, according to the mechanics handbook, there is no drain plug, I have to remove the plate and tube at the base of the oil pan. Is that correct?

[cahartley]

Only one of the cap screws.......removing both will speed up the process.

[DB26]

Got it. Btw I went to a local nut and bolt store and got a screw for my tail light assembly. I'll snap a pic tomorrow 

[TonyAus]

On 8/8/2017 at 11:49 AM, nearchoclatetown said:

DB26 do yourself the favor of believing the previous owner JUST changed the oil, BUT drain it and measure it carefully and KNOW that it has 5 quarts in it. Those floats do leak but then it should sink the whole way to the bottom. DO NOT take the chance it is low. Erichoman, that little " hat" on top of your oil rod is VERY hard to find. Most of them are laying along a road somewhere. 

The hat on top of the rod??  Something I was not aware of or knew I was missing - until looking carefully at contemporary illustrations.  I can see how most went AWOL.  Do they just push on to the end of the rod?  If so, I could easily turn one up.  Could someone give me exact dimensions (OD and thickness of head, OD of area below head, total length)?  Otherwise I can guess dimensions from the photo.  Pedantic?  Moi?

 

Thanks in anticipation

 

Tony

[nearchoclatetown]

There are three versions of the hat, to the best of my knowledge. The first was steel and threaded on, next was an aluminum casting that threaded on. Then this style that presses on and is made of steel. I've seen the first two and touched them. This one, pressed on,  I don't think I've ever seen other then in pictures. The parts books and Books of Information show them, even have a part number in the early parts book but it is not really known when each was changed to the next version. I can tell you that '14's are steel and threaded, SOMETIME in '15 changed to aluminum casting. I am guessing when they stopped threading the rod is when the pressed on version appeared but don't have proof. Maybe Erichoman could measure his very accurately? I would like to know too if it is the same size as the early steel one. The aluminum one is much larger. This is one my life's goals to figure this out!

Edited August 11, 2017 by nearchoclatetown (see edit history)

[DB26]

Here's the photo of that screw I promised. 

Does the trick.

 

i drained and refilled the oil and found that she does indeed have 5 quarts. So my leaky float theory is correct. I made some short videos about it:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[JayG]

Grab the rod and pull it up.  If it feels heavy then it is leaking.  

[MikeC5]

Nice looking machine, congrats!  Pulling the oil pan on one of these isn't all that difficult.  The leak on the float can then be soldered or chances are Myers can sell you a good used one.  

[DB26]

I will pull that pan in the future. I can live with a leaky oil float. Right now my focus is getting paperwork with the DMV. Speaking of that. The car went for the 10 mile round trip journey to the DMV (Side note: the DMV doesnt like the vehicle identification tag, so now I have to get it verified at the California Highway Patrol...lame) It did pretty good on the way, it doesnt shift into 2nd very easily, but it gets in. The way back was a different story, the engine went through periods of no power almost felt like it was running on 2 cylinders, and it backfired twice. By the time it made it back home it was normal, other than the leaks it gets when warm. (Some oil and some transmission) The clutch likes to pulsate up and down when running too. Here's video of the linkage:

 

 

 

 

[JACK M]

Pedal play, sounds like it could use some lube.

The pulsing when driving must be something bent or out of alignment in the cover (pressure plate) or possibly the clutch plate itself.

[DB26]

I'll have to check the Clutch soon.

 

In other news, I'm trying to figure out my ignition key switch. I'm thinking it might have been replaced and then eventually partially bypassed.  You can see the ignition switch that has been added to the right of the dash in this photo:

 

 

And here is what the original looks like:

Notice the keyhole looks quite chewed up. I have no key for it obviously. 

 

And heres is the back of the unit. I don't see the Clum name anywhere. 

 

 

[MikeC5]

It looks like that could be an aftermarket replacement switch but I'm only comparing it to what is on my '25  which uses a cardboard-like material for the non-conductive backing plate.  It appears yours is also a 4 position switch (off is being hidden by the handle?).   If you can get the correct MIM for 1926, it should have a wiring diagram that will allow you to cipher things out.  I've attached photos of the '25 switch and I was going to scan in the wiring diagram but my scanner is being uncooperative.  Some one here should be able to help by posting the correct wiring diagram (it may be different than '25 since they went to separate starter and generator, as in your car).  I was able to bend the 4 tabs to open up the switch and carefully clean and lube it but I'm not sure if you can get that one open.

[DB26]

Thanks so much for the pictures. Yes your switch is pretty much what all others I've found look like. So I'm sure mine has been replaced. The amp meter isn't original either. I will slowly revert all things back to normal as time goes on.