Mack0331

My 57 Buick special project

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1 hour ago, old car fan said:

I f you are looking for originality, we have one with just under 5800 miles. Will be happy to help

How the heck did that come to be?

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18 hours ago, lancemb said:

How the heck did that come to be?

 

99,999 rolled over on the odometer.

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Not ours ,service stickers are  on the door to prove it.,also records from the  2nd owner. It was not stored in a way we wished it should have been .but brought the paint back .Amazing car guys. Got our first HPOF 2 years ago .Being somewhat computer dumb, I can send pics to someone who can.

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On 7/26/2017 at 4:20 PM, old car fan said:

Not ours ,service stickers are  on the door to prove it.,also records from the  2nd owner. It was not stored in a way we wished it should have been .but brought the paint back .Amazing car guys. Got our first HPOF 2 years ago .Being somewhat computer dumb, I can send pics to someone who can.

Sorry misunderstood...thought you were saying you had an engine available with 5800 miles and I was wondering who'd pull an engine out of a 5800 mile car!?

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On 7/21/2017 at 5:08 PM, Beemon said:

You can find a complete stock power steering kit at that junkyard I shared for much cheaper and it will be correct. 

 

As for the block... I don't know what it is, but that's not a Nailhead...

www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/buick-nailhead-401-block-with-crankshaft.925385

 

 

take a look at this block.  Note the surface for bolting on the valley cover, note the hole for the distributor, note the extended bellhousing, and note that you see through the lifter Valley and see the camshaft.

 

The 57, came with a 364 cubic inch engine and the 364 has the same size bellhousing as the 401 and 425 blocks.  264/322  locks have a different diameter  ell housing.  If you go with a later 401/425 block, you'll have to finagle some motor mounts. But you could gain up to 60 hp.😆

 

Good luck.

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On 7/21/2017 at 6:43 PM, Mack0331 said:

So what kinda price am I looking at for a 364 block? Theres very little info online since apparently no one sells them. I'm a ways away from needing one just curious what I'll be looking at. 

A

Edited by 2carb40 (see edit history)

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I'm about to get it into my shop and striped down and the body off within the next week or so. For the frame and suspension stuff anyone have opinions / experience with the Eastwood rust converter , rust encapsulator , chassis black ? I'm not going for show winning perfect but a NICE driver. See mixed reviews seems decent though. 

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Got the front apart. I forgot how simple old cars are to work on. A ratchet and 1/2 socket and a few hours and the front clip is off. Broke a few bolts but overall it came apart easy. Hoping to get the body off the frame this weekend. 

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Well I got the body off. That was fun without a lift. About half the body bolts broke no prob I planned on getting new ones anyway. The one just before the right rear wheel well just spun so I had to cut a small hole in the floor to get to the other side of it. No big deal there's almost no back floor left anyway . my first attempt to pull the body off was almost a disaster. I got it up on jackstands. I had one big ratchet strap so I figured I I would use that to hold up one side by hanging it from the big center beam in the shop so I could pull the chassis out sideways. When I let the weight down on the strap it moved the body and yanked it off the jack stands on the other side . not good. That's the first pic. After that I went and got another big ratchet strap and just hung the whole body so I could pull the chassis out. Kinda redneck buy hey it worked. 

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Looks like you have a nice space to work in and she is quite solid.

As always just be careful man. :)

Edited by dei (see edit history)
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Today's progress I got the rear bumper off. I actually had to cut it off cause the bolts were not budging. Got the rear end out that was incredibly easy. Then I cleaned up the rear of the frame with various wire brush attachments for a grinder and drill and got it painted with por15. 

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You're moving right along. :)

Don't forget to keep the home fires happy too. If I had that space I'd live there too....

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9 minutes ago, dei said:

You're moving right along. :)

Don't forget to keep the home fires happy too. If I had that space I'd live there too....

Yeah I get up earlier than the wife and kids and work out there until 2 or 3 on the weekends. Trying to get stuff done while its still new to me and I'm motivated lol. 

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1 hour ago, Mack0331 said:

Yeah I get up earlier than the wife and kids and work out there until 2 or 3 on the weekends. Trying to get stuff done while its still new to me and I'm motivated lol. 

 

ALL GOOD SIR.

As the saying goes, At least the wife knows where you are and keeps one out of the bars. :D

 

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Overcame my first little challenge. One of the bolts through the lower control arm and ball joint was seized in there solid!! Got the nut off fine but the bolt wouldn't budge. Beat it with a sledge and mushroomed the end of the bolt but the bolt didn't move. I ground that side flush to the control arm and figured maybe the bolt head is rusted solid to the arm so I ground the bold head off flush to the arm on the other side . beat it with hammer and punch still wouldn't move. Gave up for the night. 

 

Got a little propane torch today and heated the hell out if it but still couldn't get it to budge. Just couldn't get enough force with the punch. OK time to rig something up. I taped a small socket to a hammer and set that up against the end of the bolt after heating it with the torch again then smacked that hammer with a sledge . this way I could get some real force on it. After a few good solid hits and me hoping the socket wouldnt fly apart and take out a eye it gave way and started to go. From there I could get it out with a punch. Improvise , adapt , and overcome ! 

 

I ordered a deluxe front end rebuild kit from kanter now that I got that last ball joint off I'll mail those in to them as cores tomorrow and should get the kit in about 3 weeks. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

Any reason the kanter springs are 3x the price of others ?

 

Is a vintage Buick,  coil springs is just the first of price gouging you'll probably run in to. Your best bet is to find a source that will tell you the loaded height of the spring and then go through a moog catalogue of you're trying to save big bucks. 

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2 hours ago, Beemon said:

 

Is a vintage Buick,  coil springs is just the first of price gouging you'll probably run in to. Your best bet is to find a source that will tell you the loaded height of the spring and then go through a moog catalogue of you're trying to save big bucks. 

All those I posted from rock auto say they are for 57 Buick's. I was wondering if there's something special about the Kanter ones that would make it worth buying them instead.  

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Probably claims "oem original specs", but there should be no reason why a Moog part wouldn't work. I would cross reference in the shop manual what the body height should be for stock springs. Take your measurement under compression, and then jack the car up and see what the unloaded height is. Then compare what Moog says for loaded height.

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My first parts order arrived. Front end kit from kanter. The new ball joints will be here in a week or two. Not throwing stuff together yet cause I may have a deal going for a rolling chassis with fresh rebuilt motor and trans. I only wanted the motor and trans but he wants to sell it together and the price is VERY good. If I get that I may use that chassis and throw all my new parts on that one. 

 

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