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Repair of pot metal


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Jörg,

Depending on the piece and the severity of the break? Most high-end chrome shops can mend a great deal and, when beyond mending, a cast can be made and the part reproduced. Which part is the problem? Can you post a photo?

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You need low temperature welding or solder and a lot of care. If you use a solder, it must be a plateable solder.

 

Welding requires a localised temperature of about 750 °F=400 °C and you must be very careful to contain the heat and stop it spreading. It will melt the part. Frequent brushing with water helps to keep the temperature of the rest of the part below 300 °F =150 °C. A thin brass or stainless steel rod is used to "puddle" the molten zinc during welding - these metals won't melt at that temperature. A zinc rod is used to add metal during welding. You can make a thin zinc rod by pouring molten zinc onto a steel plate from a moving ladle.

 

You can straighten a bent area a little at a time, keeping the area of the casting being worked on at around 350 °F=175 °C. I have used clamps + boiling water + gentle clamp tightening to straighten fuel pump tops while they are at 100 °C.

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I would also note the headlight stanchions on my Detroit-assembled Rockne are black like the fenders, and show no signs of chrome beneath the paint. Perhaps the chrome on yours is a contribution from its Netherlands assembly?

P7120136.JPG

P7120137.JPG

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8 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

You need low temperature welding or solder and a lot of care. If you use a solder, it must be a plateable solder.

 

Welding requires a localised temperature of about 750 °F=400 °C and you must be very careful to contain the heat and stop it spreading. It will melt the part. Frequent brushing with water helps to keep the temperature of the rest of the part below 300 °F =150 °C. A thin brass or stainless steel rod is used to "puddle" the molten zinc during welding - these metals won't melt at that temperature. A zinc rod is used to add metal during welding. You can make a thin zinc rod by pouring molten zinc onto a steel plate from a moving ladle.

 

You can straighten a bent area a little at a time, keeping the area of the casting being worked on at around 350 °F=175 °C. I have used clamps + boiling water + gentle clamp tightening to straighten fuel pump tops while they are at 100 °C.

 

Thank you for all these informations. I gave a test Part to chrome shop for deplating and will try your after i get it back! 

Thank you so much

joe

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45 minutes ago, starlightcoupe said:

I would also note the headlight stanchions on my Detroit-assembled Rockne are black like the fenders, and show no signs of chrome beneath the paint. Perhaps the chrome on yours is a contribution from its Netherlands assembly?

P7120136.JPG

P7120137.JPG

 

Brad, maybe its part of the "DeLuxe" Package?

The car also have chrome trim rings on wheels and dual chromed Horns.

Do you know the whire wheels originally are chromed to?

thank you

Joerg

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