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To Bead blast or Not to Bead blast that is the ?


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Well we are in the process of doing our restoration. And we are comtemplating getting a media blaster to help us out. We are wondering what your thoughts on media blasting are? I have head something about warping metal. Some people have have talked to live by it and others won't tuch it with a 5 foot pole. What do you think? This is the first of many of our Q. that we will be posting throughout our restoration.

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Lots of blasting media to choose from, Walnut shels, Baking soda, etc, etc. If the metal is old and rusty, it will dissapear with sand blasting, but for solid stuff like chassis, etc, should be OK. Sure gets rid of 70 years of gunge the easy way!<BR>Marty

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Use someone that knows what he is doing. What works on frames will ruin a body part. What works on body parts can damage the wood body structure. If you have rust...blast away....if you are trying to remove paint that is over sound un-rusted metal...sanding or chem strip may be better....with blasting only in the rusty spots.<BR> bill

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A friend of mine just had a 1958 corvette plastic blasted it took off the paint and never hurt the jell coat.plastic blasting doesn't even hurt lead joints<p>[ 03-23-2002: Message edited by: Rick Brinker ]

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If you will be doing this yourself, be conservative, be careful. Sheetmetal, no. Wood wheels no (never, no matter who does it). Never blast engine block, differential, anywhere where sand will stick and then return in your oil or grease as an abrasive. (Sand imbeds in soft cast iron.) Otherwise sand (and other abrasive) is great on chassis parts. I have had a body abrasive blasted by a professional who used some sort of plastic medium. I lost a lot of body that used to be rust, but all in all the result was not too bad. However, I prefer dipping of bodies because this gets into all the crevices. You do need to be sure to neutralize after dipping. My one car body was dipped 25 years ago and no problems yet.

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You can do sandblasting yourself. You just need to ease in to it a bit. I totally disassembled my car and took it to a shop that had a comercial blaster. I didn't try to go deep the first pass. It doesn't take long till you get the feel of how fast to move and how close to get. Make sure and rust-stop prime immediately!! The new steel doesn't need an excuse to rust even here in dry Utah. As stated before NO wood!! It evaporates. Any Question drop me a note. <BR>earlyir@kanab.net rolleyes.gif" border="0

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