Guest ddmjh Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Looking to purchase a Reatta that is in great condition. Coupe and low mileage. Not interested in working on anything. Help. New at this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jan arnett (2) Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Welcome to the forum. I think you are in the wrong forum with your question. You should ask this question in the Buick forum and then be more descriptive in what you want. Saying you want something in great condition is very broad. I am sure they can help you in how to identify the car you want and provide plenty of help in locating one. Lots of luck and make sure you join the Buick Club. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 ddmjh, Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I have moved your question to the Reatta specific forum. I am sure you will find plenty of advice here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 WELCOME TO THE REATTA FORUM Please follow the advice in this link when deciding on purchasing a Reatta. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Thanks for your help. You can tell I am new at navigating this site. I am searching for a very nice Reatta with low miles and great condition inside and out. I want history of service and no issues. It is really that simple. I do not expect perfection but only normal wear. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 There is a Red/Gray 1989 coupe that just came up on the Appleton Wi. Craigslist. The car is in Marquette Michigan. 38,000 miles and the dealer wants $5995. Looks bone stock and with that few miles shouldn't have anything wrong with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Thanks for the info. I will look at it. I was told by one gentleman that the 1991 models were without doubt the best. I suppose there are other good years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwack Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 7 hours ago, ddmjh said: Looking to purchase a Reatta that is in great condition. Coupe and low mileage. Not interested in working on anything. Help. New at this. Whereabouts do you call home, stranger? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 In mid Missouri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 1 hour ago, ddmjh said: Thanks for the info. I will look at it. I was told by one gentleman that the 1991 models were without doubt the best. I suppose there are other good years. In my opinion the 1988/89 is the Reatta. It has the same styling as the 1991 but has the touch screen. As all years "look" the same what we are talking about is the braking system. All 4 years have ABS brakes however the brakes on the 1988-1990 Reatta uses the Teves brake system. I have owned the Red [my 1989] for 11 years and 150,000 miles and have yet to replace the pump/motor, pressure switch, accumulator ball. I have replaced the front sensor leads. The Black I have owned for 9 years and about 100,000 miles the same [no brake part replacement other then front sensor leads] the 'vert 7,000 miles [no brake parts replaced including sensor leads in 4 years]. So I would say a low mileage well taken care of car should give you years of service no matter what year you buy. The 1991 uses a conventional ABS brake system but the sensor leads for that car are even harder to find then the 1988-1990 models. There is a Buick Reunion coming up in Brookfield [Suburb of Milwaukee] in 2 weeks. Why don't you come up and you will see 20-30 Reattas and you can decide for yourself what year might suit you best. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 (edited) Will concur with Dave's assessment. Only real benefit to the 91's are the slight bump in HP, less complex ABS system (excepting availability of front sensor assemblies) and a slightly improved exhaust setup. My first was a 91, and I love the car. That said, I later purchased a couple of 88's and if I'm being honest, I've a slight preference for them now. The 88, while having very slightly less power has a more agressive cam profile so feels like it has more juice off the line. And the CRT is very cool in a retro tech way, though admittedly the 90/91 cluster looks better IMHO. Any of the four years will give you some challenges finding parts going forward, but there are several good parts sources around yet. I see you are in mid-Missouri, I'm in suburban St. Louis area, so if you want to see both versions live in person, contact me here by PM and would be happy to arrange for you to evaluate both an 88 and a 91. Edited June 25, 2017 by KDirk (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Thanks for all this help. I am at Lake of the Ozarks and would love to come back to St. Louis and look at the cars. I did see there is one for sale in St. Charles. I will be in touch and try a find time to get back there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 It'll be difficult to find a nearly 30 year old car that doesn't have any issues. Even if when you get it there are no issues, some issues will likely develop. I don't think these cars at this point in time are for owners who are unwilling to work on them, and also a lot of garage mechanic professionals are not motivated to learn about the idiosyncracies of these almost 30 year old vehicles. That's obviously just one man's opinio, take it for what its worth. If I had to pay someone to do all I've done on my 90 in the past year or so, the bill would have been around $5k on top of the purchase price. That said, the folks on here are knowledgeable for when issues pop up. Welcome to the forum, and good luck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 You might find this helpful in your search for a Reatta. What should I check when buying a Reatta? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Thank you...upkeep on that car sounds quite high. Perhaps they are somewhat more undependable than most of the era ? I do not repair cars unless it is something rather basic and have no desire to start '. Probably lack the required tools ,area etc. Therefore paying another person would be required. I had a 35 year old Dodge truck until a couple years ago and repairs were few and far between. Very dependable. I may have to reconsider this Reatta ? That type of expense is unacceptable for any vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwack Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 1 hour ago, ddmjh said: Thank you...upkeep on that car sounds quite high. Perhaps they are somewhat more undependable than most of the era ? I do not repair cars unless it is something rather basic and have no desire to start '. Probably lack the required tools ,area etc. Therefore paying another person would be required. I had a 35 year old Dodge truck until a couple years ago and repairs were few and far between. Very dependable. I may have to reconsider this Reatta ? That type of expense is unacceptable for any vehicle. While the majority of people in this forum are tech/mechanically savvy, *I* am not. I've owned 13 Reattas and with the help of this forum and a good mechanic, when a mechanical repair was needed, it wasn't anything out of the ordinary that couldn't be done on another make/model. I have had the front wheels speed sensors changed, new a/c compressor installed, brake fluid flushed, etc. The one thing I had done "out of the ordinary" (and in hindsight wasn't necessary and an expensive lesson) was have the Teves system replaced. That was done on my first Reatta (and before finding this forum). Any other brake related issues were remedied either with replacing the accumulator or a wheel speed sensor. A mechanically sound, rust free, good body/paint Reatta is a collectible car that you can find for under $5,000. Keep in mind its a "collectible" because its over 25 yrs old. Not because its desirable in the collector car market. Find one. Buy one. Enjoy and when you want to move on to something else, most likely you will get your purchase price returned to you on the sale. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Thanks for the advise. I am just beginning to look for one. The dealers appear to have nice ones but over priced generally. I am patient and will only pay a fair market price for any auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwack Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 20 hours ago, ddmjh said: Thanks for the advise. I am just beginning to look for one. The dealers appear to have nice ones but over priced generally. I am patient and will only pay a fair market price for any auto. Don't go to a corner auto re-seller. My neighbor's golden retriever knows more about Reattas then they do. Let Craigslist, eBay or AutoTrader be your friend. Buy from a private party. If you can't personally inspect the car, documentation, documentation and more documentation. Make sure it is RUST FREE (get a picture of the under-carriage or look elsewhere). And run the VIN on a car that interests you. Remember: It's just a car. Rare in some areas (very few on the west coast) and relatively plentiful elsewhere (there's about 12-14M running of 21,700+ built). Most likely the Reatta you buy will either drop in value or maintain its value. Appraisals are worth the paper written on. Go by street price. As a loose guideline, whatever the asking price, it will probably sell for 10-15% Most likely its been for sale for some time and the seller wants to move on; happy he's found a sucker willing to take it off his hands. The Reatta you buy will come with problems. Could be the headlight cover won't open (an easy fix) or the a/c isn't working (don't believe it needs only Freon). Yes, it needs Freon...and a $1,200 compressor. ABS warning light stays illuminated. In your case, walk away. If it was an easy fix, the seller would have done it. Door ajar light stays on? Not a mechanical issue. Shocks need replacing??? $1,000. FWIW, when you buy a Reatta (or any used car), make sure your budget includes flush/fill all fluids. Even if the seller shows you a recent Jiffy Lube reciept, I'd still have my trusty mechanic change all the fluids. Find a Reatta you like and ask the forum their opinion if its worthy of ownership. That's what we're here for (and for the free popcorn). We use to have free entertainment, but he was too big for the room and taken off the marquee (conversation for another time). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Very helpful. Thanks. I am slowly learning more and more. I am planning on taking my time. One 1988 sold recently on Ebay in Manhattan. Price looked reasonable and seller claimed many repairs and replacement parts. Far from me and pictures of the underside showed much rust. I decided I would wait. I would rather purchase closer to home. Shipping just adds to the bottom line. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Sorry- but I must jump in here... Bushwack- you must work on your Reatta Salesperson skills. We need people to buy and care for the Reatta that are left- not send them to the crusher for bad paint I'm not trying to be argumentative but... First- you state that your technical and mechanical knowledge is "low" 7 hours ago, Bushwack said: While the majority of people in this forum are tech/mechanically savvy, *I* am not. Then- you make definite (and inaccurate) statements regarding car repair 2 hours ago, Bushwack said: Could be the headlight cover won't open (an easy fix) or the a/c isn't working (don't believe it needs only Freon). Yes, it needs Freon...and a $1,200 compressor. ABS warning light stays illuminated. In your case, walk away. If it was an easy fix, the seller would have done it. Door ajar light stays on? Not a mechanical issue. Shocks need replacing??? $1,000. Headlight(s) not lifting up? (if it's the rollers/bellcrank) $100 for the kit, directions a 10 year old could follow. AC not working? For a 1989 ALL needed HVAC replacement upgrade to 134a parts come to $570.27 + S&H ABS light? Probably a wheel speed sensor- maybe able to source 1 or more from a Vendor here Door Ajar? (if it's just the switch) $12.41 + S&H Struts? $55.79 ea. REAR and $60.79 ea. FRONT Yes, all of these prices are for PARTS ONLY- but if your "Mechanic" is charging you $1,000 to replace Struts- that's who you should run away from. ANY "reliable" vehicle is going to either need DIY or a Mechanic to keep it that way. In my career of Auto Mechanics tenure I can say that with confidence. A Buick Reatta- whatever year, whatever price- IS going to require attention at some point- unless it's a totally unsafe to drive Trailer Queen. These cars were hand built, and cost roughly $28k at the time. You would think their owners would've appreciated them more- but sadly- most did not. Due to the complexity (back then) of some of it's systems- the Reatta didn't go over too well with the intended Customer Target (Baby Boomer Empty Nester) and many were neglected, abused, or went up for sale to whomever at Estate Sales, or got squirrelled away somewhere- and allowed to rot away. A very small percentage were kept as pristine as possible- but even those have needed work to be a safe Parade car- let alone a daily driver. Shiny paint and wheels don't start your car- or stop it. Whatever the asking price is- be prepared to sink at least $1,000 into it over the time you own it. Think about it- if it's such a beautiful car, and needs nothing- why sell it? On that note- why did you sell your Dodge? Find a reputable Mechanic- or a Friend or Family member who knows cars- go over the information found in THIS WEBSITE and take that person along on your Reatta search. The cost of lunch could save you hundreds or thousands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 thanks for the information... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budensor Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 I have a 1990 convertible white w/ white top - Blue leather int. Has less that 22,000 Miles I bought it for my wife but she can't drive her legs are to short. We bought it from the original owner. Not any thing wrong with the car super original But with all the things that goes wrong with them have been fixed except original radio ( They got tried of sending it off for repair ) it have a hidden after market one but the original in place and light up. I will take $ 10,750.00 for it. Oh ! I put a new set of tires because it still had the original ones on it and they rode like stones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 All the negativeness aside, once you've done something to the car, it won't need to be done again. I had to fix my AC, put new struts in, upgraded the ignition system module and coils, inspected the ground connections under the rug behind the seats, changed out the ECM module, put the magnet back in the camshaft sprocket, changed all fluids, new transmission filter, fuel filter. So far my headlamp covers work fine. Also, my ABS sensor wire leads are ok but the deal is, there's lots of parts that are getting hard to find. So hard, that I bought a second Reatta so I could rob parts from it as needed. I also had to replace my trunk latch solenoid. Also, my electronics would randomly lock and unlock the doors and trunk. I finally figured out accidentally, the reason. It turns out that after I disconnected the trunk illumination bulb from the circuit, all the weird electonic happenings stopped !! I like my car because its challenging. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwack Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 16 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: Sorry- but I must jump in here... Bushwack- you must work on your Reatta Salesperson skills. We need people to buy and care for the Reatta that are left- not send them to the crusher for bad paint I'm not trying to be argumentative but... First- you state that your technical and mechanical knowledge is "low" Then- you make definite (and inaccurate) statements regarding car repair Headlight(s) not lifting up? (if it's the rollers/bellcrank) $100 for the kit, directions a 10 year old could follow. AC not working? For a 1989 ALL needed HVAC replacement upgrade to 134a parts come to $570.27 + S&H ABS light? Probably a wheel speed sensor- maybe able to source 1 or more from a Vendor here Door Ajar? (if it's just the switch) $12.41 + S&H Struts? $55.79 ea. REAR and $60.79 ea. FRONT Yes, all of these prices are for PARTS ONLY- but if your "Mechanic" is charging you $1,000 to replace Struts- that's who you should run away from. ANY "reliable" vehicle is going to either need DIY or a Mechanic to keep it that way. In my career of Auto Mechanics tenure I can say that with confidence. A Buick Reatta- whatever year, whatever price- IS going to require attention at some point- unless it's a totally unsafe to drive Trailer Queen. These cars were hand built, and cost roughly $28k at the time. You would think their owners would've appreciated them more- but sadly- most did not. Due to the complexity (back then) of some of it's systems- the Reatta didn't go over too well with the intended Customer Target (Baby Boomer Empty Nester) and many were neglected, abused, or went up for sale to whomever at Estate Sales, or got squirrelled away somewhere- and allowed to rot away. A very small percentage were kept as pristine as possible- but even those have needed work to be a safe Parade car- let alone a daily driver. Shiny paint and wheels don't start your car- or stop it. Whatever the asking price is- be prepared to sink at least $1,000 into it over the time you own it. Think about it- if it's such a beautiful car, and needs nothing- why sell it? On that note- why did you sell your Dodge? Find a reputable Mechanic- or a Friend or Family member who knows cars- go over the information found in THIS WEBSITE and take that person along on your Reatta search. The cost of lunch could save you hundreds or thousands. I'm not looking to sell anyone on a Reatta. The businessman in me says let them all get crushed (maybe that will help these cars appreciate). The realist in me knows these cars will not achieve desirable collectible status for the next many years. My estimate on expenses are based on the depleted funds in my checking account the past few years. Maybe in Small Town, MO (where the OP is from) labor is cheap. But in L.A., labor runs between $115 - $140/hr for an independent shop (my Lexus dealer is at $155/hr for my daily driver and the Benz dealer is at $175 to service my 280SL). And I'm sure parts are significantly more expensive in L.A. (and most major cities) than Small Town, MO. Go ahead and buy parts from Rock Auto or Amazon and have your mechanic install them. Of course, he'll tell you he either buys the parts to install (it is his liability + part of his profit) or take your business elsewhere. BTW, struts, shocks, mounting kits on Amazon is about $315 (probably 30% more as the dealer will want to supply the parts or let you walk). Add 4 hrs of labor and you have your wallet significantly lighter. As for converting to 134A, if the a/c hasn't been turned on (or blowing cold) for a long while (which most have not for peeps who are selling their Reattas), dollar to donuts (as some older gents like to say), a conversion isn't going to help. In fact, I'd bank on my own advice. You'll need a new compressor. Ka-Ching! Speaking of the OP, he doesn't want to work on the car. He wants a Reatta that's "good-to-go". BFD if these cars are "hand built". If that meant anything, they'd be worth 2x or 3x their current selling price. Or, maybe because they are hand built, they are not worth less than what they are selling for (the ying-yang theory). I'm not on Team Reatta. I've regurgitated that long ago (btw, that's liberal thinking I will not be apart of). I'm on the team of value, truth and realism as I've experienced it. And if I can help someone out based on my experiences, that's a good thing. YMMV. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 (edited) I think anyone considering a Reatta has to accept a few things from the outset: first, these are old cars now. The newest of them is presently 26 years old, and no car is really meant to last that long. That a fair number of Reattas survive (relative to other cars the same age) is testament to the fact that they were built better than average for the era, and that there are a dedicated group of owners who persevere in maintaining them. Second, any old car will require repairs, probably with ever increasing frequency, unless one does a complete restoration to head off such problems preemptively. Barring that, expect to have to keep putting money and time into keeping it road worthy, much less looking decent. Third, the Reatta is a complicated car for its time, as it is very heavy on electronics for the late 1980's. While I have to commend GM for designing and building a robust and reliable system of electronics for these cars, at nearly 30 years old, things are starting to show some geriatric problems. Sensors and switches go bad, modules fail, and often these are difficult to nail down to a neophyte who doesn't understand how it all works. Further, in this era of professional mechanics who are largely lost without the scan tool to hold their hand and tell them what part to swap, many shops simply don't want to be bothered dealing with the complexities of this car and its comparatively primitive diagnostic facilities. The shops that will take on such work and do it well are few and far between, and will not be inexpsensive. Thus, the necessity of doing much of one's own work, or being independently wealthy, is born. I also think Reatta owners in particular need to accept (and I think most do) that there is no return on investment to be had for repair/restoration outside of having a nicer car and the satisfaction of owning something unique. It is very easy to spend much more than the purchase price to get a Reatta into really nice (or even close to perfect) shape. That money will not be recovered if the car is subsequently sold. Too many people see the tv shows and auctions where classics are turned around for a handsome profit. Disabuse yourself of that notion straight away. Maybe someday the Reatta will be a monetarily valuable classic. Today is not that day, neither is tomorrow. If you buy one, and start down the road to getting it right, you best finish the job and then enjoy the car long term or you will likely be selling at a loss if you get discouraged partway through and decide to cut and run. This is not a Roadrunner or a GTO, it is [presently] a largely overlooked car that happens to have a following of owners who are not generally of the means to buy the cars that are lusted after at Barrett Jackson. There's nothing wrong with that, of course. It is a nice car that is attainable by regular people with modest budgets. I feel no shame over the fact that I paid less for all my Reattas combined than one new uninspiring economy Chevy, as I don't purport to be filthy rich. If I were, I'd be outbidding Wayne Carrini for Auburns and Cords at Pebble Beach. Above all, I think it unrealistic to expect to buy a Reatta that will just be trouble free for some years and thousands of miles of use. Even a 20,000 mile garage queen will need things replaced if it starts seeing regular use. Either you accept that and plan for it by having the funds to get it repaired, or you get the tools and the skills to do it yourself. Or some combination thereof. The alternative is to bail as soon as the going gets tough, and we have seen plenty of that as many have joined this forum after buying a Reatta only to bail and fall away quietly after a few months of getting dogged by expensive and complicated problems. There remain a small - and getting smaller - core of us with the determination to keep them going. But very few seem to have the fortitude to stick with it when they are facing a major repair that may cost as much as the current market value of the car. Anyone considering a Reatta needs to seriously consider how much they are willing to commit to the effort, and how easily they get discouraged by setbacks. Edited June 27, 2017 by KDirk (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Great thread here. Reattas are like "Camel Filters", remember the old TV commercials ? "They're not for everybody". Consider also the changing demographic in the States here - its not hard to predict that even the demand for '68 Camaro Rally Sports won't be increasing as we old americans die off. The "millenials" have no interest even in a GTO Judge model. If the Reatta didn't have such a cute curvy little butt and sleek side view, I would have gone for a porsche or whatever. Fact is, Reatta is probably one of the sexiest cars ever made. If I was a Jeep, I'd be doinking the Reatta every night. LOL. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) My story is that I was "messing" around on E-bay and I bid a lowball figure on a Reatta. I won the bid and that's how I got into it. I really didn't expect to get the car. I went the 90 miles to where it was I hooked up the battery and drove it home. It had seen some better days but it was a "project car" for me to tinker with until I retired. Now that I'm retired I really want to work on the "project" I bought 42 years ago. I have now started doing the work on my 1955 Thunderbird project and really have no more interest in the Reatta. I still marvel at the electronics and troubleshooting capabilities. It is pretty much mechanically just like working on any other car. The electronics throw a lot of people but the guys here at the Reatta websites and the shop manual walk you through any issues to get it sorted. The only problem I have run into is that when I give it to someone else to work on it they don't have the patience to dig out the real problem to fix it and become frustrated with it. Usually I get it back from the "certified professional mechanic" who has given up and I can get it all set within a day or two. I'm now in the process of fixing something that "I" broke and once it's up and running again I am planning to sell. It's a very long list of things that I have repaired since I got it and as stated by someone earlier I'm into it for a LOT more money than I can get for it. But my focus is now on my Thunderbird and I really don't need or require the Reatta. Edited June 28, 2017 by fordrodsteven (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JDOKC Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 On 6/26/2017 at 11:47 AM, ddmjh said: Thanks for the advise. I am just beginning to look for one. The dealers appear to have nice ones but over priced generally. I am patient and will only pay a fair market price for any auto. We have two Reatta's for sale. Both have been in the barn for over 20 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 36 minutes ago, JDOKC said: We have two Reatta's for sale. Both have been in the barn for over 20 years. Call Wayne Carini. He's always looking for barn finds. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JDOKC Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 How do I reach him? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JDOKC Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 Sorry, I figured out how to contact him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JDOKC Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 On 7/4/2017 at 11:11 AM, JDOKC said: ddmjh: 1990 Silver and a Red 1988. Both have been in storage for nearly 20 years. Both cars ran well whenever we parked them. I have pics, but I'm trying to work out how to get them posted. Let me know if you're still interested. We have two Reatta's for sale. Both have been in the barn for over 20 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ski.dive Posted July 17, 2017 Share Posted July 17, 2017 On 7/4/2017 at 0:49 PM, Ronnie said: Call Wayne Carini. He's always looking for barn finds. LMAO...HAHAHA 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 You can have a 25 year old car or you can have a car that you won't have to work on. Take your pick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ddmjh Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 25 year old car does not mean you will have to work on it. I had a 37 year old truck and rarely had a problem with it. Depends entirely on what you you start with Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted July 19, 2017 Share Posted July 19, 2017 Little late here but reasonably long time owner. 88 (triple blue sunroof coupe) was my daily driver for years but mostly sits in the garage now, drive the convertible more. Over the years have done just about everything to it but has always been reliable. If the AC doesn't work it is just a Buick & all of the period are the same. Shop I use charges $900 for a compressor/dryer/orifice/flush & guarantee. Probably half that if you can DIY & use ACKITS. Kids at shows are fascinated by the touchscreen and the license plate costs less now. Parts are available from several here that have room to keep parts cars. Agree the market is not there for these cars though convertibles seem to be increasing. Headlights are not hard to rebuild but need a metric tool kit. Personally replaced the 15x6 wheels with GM 16x7s/Michelins and the Magnavox ignition with a Delco. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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