1963 VW Convertible Restoration

[theastronaut]

I found a '63 vert body on craigslist just over three years ago. It's super solid and straight but it was missing the frame and running gear.  The story was that the owner's brother built a trike from the frame and running gear and stored the body in his shop for the last 30 years.  The brother passed away so it was moved out to a farm shed, then listed on craigslist for only $700 bucks. I jumped on it as soon it was posted and luckily was able bring it home later that day.   It was in pieces so I reassembled it, stuck it on a spare rolling frame, and put it away in the barn as a future project. 

 

About a year and a half ago a friend was selling his blue '63 vert with a title that was mostly complete and matching numbers but very rough.  I used the best parts from the two cars to make a solid driver.  

 

The first one I bought, just a body. 

As found:

 

 

 

Back home and reassembled. Check out those fenderwells!! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tucked away in the barn, waiting its turn alongside my first car, a '66 sedan. 

 

 

The blue donor car.  It's extremely rough and not worth restoring. I'll use it for the frame, running gear, and title. 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

I got the body off the frame, cut the old floor pans out, then started getting the flange ready for the new pans.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Frame and suspension completely disassembled. 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

The first batch of parts.  The floor pans are from Wolfsburg West and are the same thickness and quality as the original pans.  

 

 

I blasted the spot where the rear cross braces weld to, and the flange that the floor pans weld to finish cleaning up the rust.  Also mopped on a coat of epoxy.  

 

 

 

 

I found more rust in the edges of the pan head so I cut that open for repairs. 

 

 

Formed a piece out of 16 gauge and welded it in. I ordered the top half of the pan head brace instead of trying to make those pieces myself. 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Finished welding the pans in.  

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Pulled the donor body out of the barn and brought it to the shop.   

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

I wanted to add disc brakes and dropped spindles but that widens the front track and pushes the wheels too far out and causes tire clearance issues.  So I narrowed the axle 3" to pull the wheels back in.  I also added torsion adjusters so I can fine tune the ride height. 

 

Beam taken out, cut it in half, then I cleaned the grease out in the parts washer, and started adding the adjusters. 

 

 

The adjusters come assembled on a 2" wide tube. I don't like having two welded joints, plus the tube they use is thinner than the original beam. So I cut the "cage" off and modify the beam itself. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The outer surface of the inner piece is rough so I smoothed it with a flap wheel. I also smoothed the inside of the tubes so the parts can rotate freely. 

 

 

 

 

Everything assembled on the beam, ready for welding. 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[keiser31]

Nice job.

[theastronaut]

27 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

Nice job.

 

Thanks!

 

[F&J]

I sure will read every post, and see every pic...and if you ever need any help with the issues, TELL ME.

 

I am likely your best "go to" guy on this website for a "VW a/cool" including specializing in ANY body style, and Any years...rust, electr, mechanical, engine, weird issues, or ...if you just plain like me  LOL  !!

 

I started my auto repair career in Jan 1970, at Ted Trudon VW in Talcottville, CT.. and took first of many official traings at their factlity-school in New York in Mar 1970... 

 

Now....I know I am a better VW a/c guy,> as I've KNOWN, and I still will run into, a weird, never seen before issue....mainly due to....these cars are a tad-bit getting old!!  I cannot predict what VW guy will see on a 100 year old 63 VW >151..

If yours is Usa? and if my mind still retains that correctly, (which I 'know".. can be off).. That 3 digit means conv, and means LHD.  I do have all VW factory books, like old parts #s. etc, if you need that help too. 

 

My oldest vert was "second series" 55 USA red, conv...rot free Cal car, loaded with "all the right stuff", since installed when new!!  It is gone, but allowed my current home purchase...that is..where I was always...supposed to be!    I have had at least 100 A.Cool VWs, and only one left here,.. saved for my son when he was 5...that was 20 yrs ago!!  1959 USA rag sunroof! ..  Take care.. of you, yours ,,, and that bug!!

Edited June 21, 2017 by F&J
mis spel'd town.. (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

F&J, thanks for posting! It is a US spec car, vin starts with 151.  I'm pretty jealous of your '55 vert, I'd love to find a late '54 or early '55 with the "egg" tail lights.  I bought my first VW when I was eight years old and have had around a dozen of them since.  

[theastronaut]

The disc brake/drop spindle kit.

 

 

 

More details of the axle. I cut off the inner half of the shock towers to make more clearance between the towers and the body, and also leaned them out 1.5" each to make more room.  I used .5" x 1.5" C-channel to brace the towers.  

 

 

 

 

I blasted/painted the old spindle carriers and painted the new spindles and calipers.  I worked on assembling the spindles but didn't get as far as I wanted...  The new drop spindles are machined a little shorter so they needed a thicker thrust washer, which I didn't have.  I called the local VW parts hoarder to see if he had any, he said: "yeah I have a box of them, come on over".  So I go check his washers and none of them are thick enough.  I ended up downsizing the OD of some old link pin shims I had to come up with the correct clearance. 

The thrust washer. 

 

 

One spindle/brake assembly finished (minus the spindle nut, the new ones were made wrong).  

 

 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

I decided to leave the paint mostly "as-is" and just color match the one fender and fix/blend a few areas that need repairing.  I prefer well preserved original/old paint over a fully restored/repainted car since there's less upkeep and you don't have to worry so much about scuffs and dings when driving it. So I started scuffing the paint to prep it for a clear coat, which will have a flattening agent added in so it's not too glossy.  

 

I first wetsanded and buffed a spot to be scanned for a color match. 

 

 

After washing all the dust off you can see how oxidized the paint was. 

 

 

Used a red scuff pad and dish detergent to clean off the dead paint and get to a good base to clear over. Quarter, fender, and hood scuffed.

 

 

I also delivered the frame and suspension parts to the powdercoater. I probably should buy another truck...  

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[F&J]

I am in salt belt...used to be called rust belt...but now is so bad here.

 

so, your body looks so perfect to me, as it is!!  Beautiful!

 

Early 60s are SOO simple, so they are soo sweet!  Better ride, and whatnot, than an oval or late split.

[theastronaut]

9 hours ago, F&J said:

I am in salt belt...used to be called rust belt...but now is so bad here.

 

so, your body looks so perfect to me, as it is!!  Beautiful!

 

Early 60s are SOO simple, so they are soo sweet!  Better ride, and whatnot, than an oval or late split.

 

I was really lucky to find the body in such good shape!  

[theastronaut]

Started fixing the driver side front fender. It had a badly repaired area that had cracked filler and the overall shape was way off. 

 

 

 

 

After stripping it, it was pretty crunched. 

 

 

Ran it through the planishing hammer, cut out a bad spot on the inner flange and made a new piece, did some hammer/dolly work, then skim coated it. 

 

 

Pulled just about everything from the trunk so I could clean it up. The old wiring was hacked up so I'll get a new harness. 

 

 

Picked up a decent pair of original German bumpers for $200 bucks. 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

I scrubbed out the trunk, it cleaned up better than expected.  I was planning on scuffing and clearing it to bring out the color but I don't think I'll need to now. 

 

 

Shot a couple coats of primer on the fender.

 

 

The interior and a ton of other parts arrived.  Went with grey and ivory since I'm not crazy about red/tan cars.  Plus I was able to get matching grey floor mats instead of plain black so that should brighten up the interior a little. I cheaped out and bought the less expensive synthetic carpet... I didn't think the original style wool carpet was a good idea in a convertible with no top... 

 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

The front fenders are 64-66 style with the turn signals mounted farther back.  I made a template from a spare earlier fender so I could move the signals to the correct location. 

 

 

 

The passenger side of the front apron had some old repairs that had failed so I stripped it, cut out the section between the bumper slots, welded in a new piece, then straightened it, skimmed it, and shot a couple coats of primer. 

 

 

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/t5GyP1S.jpg[/img

 

The passenger fender needed some reworking to look more like the original German driver side fender.  First thing was to reshape the too-round inside lip of the fender into a more square shape to look more like the original fender.  On both fenders I folded the inside edge a little tighter than stock to give the tire a little more clearance and a smooth edge to rub up against, both fenders were done this way.  I'm planning on running 195/50-15's up front which are much wider than the typical 135 or 145 tires that most guys run. Even with the narrowed beam I'll need all the room I can get. 

 

 

Another area I reworked was the shape on the outside of the headlight bucket.  It wasn't stamped as deeply as an original fender so I used a hollow dolly and a convex-faced hammer to stretch the area deeper.  

 

 

I also brought the engine to the shop so I could start the teardown. 

 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Short block torn down. Looks to have been rebuilt at one point, the crank bore had been cut .020" oversize. Everything else was still standard size and even though it had a ton of sludge in the block nothing looks to needs machine work. It was going to be a quick and easy rebuild, until... I dug around in my parts stash and found all the major parts needed to turn the 1200cc 40 horse engine into a 1500cc stroker.   I still need to find an appropriate dual carb setup, and I'll modify the stock muffler into a vintage Abarth 4-tip copy.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

I shot the inside of the passenger fender with some rattle can red and brown primer to sorta match the other fenderwells. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 18, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[Frank Tate]

Looks good!  You are really doing a great job!

[theastronaut]

4 hours ago, Frank Tate said:

Looks good!  You are really doing a great job!

 

Thanks!

 

[F&J]

6 hours ago, theastronaut said:

 

Thanks!

 

astronaut.... I give a premature THANKS to YOU<

 

When we the car hobby guy, get to a certain  situation in our years on earth, we end up with FAR too much "dstash" as you called it!

 

Then we need to downsize , simply because, more years collecting thing WE MUST stash if we need then=m for out specific cars...then we decide to only save just a tiny bit for just one year/and TYPE...we WANT to find the best home for the rest or at least know ewe would prefer that.  Not that I couldn't use any pennies gathered by the TIME wasting of selling lots of things in dozens of ADS, I prefer...GIVING AWAY to someone I believe will need or appreciate, and I have knowledge that he will pass along to others what is sorted out by him as "not really what I need"

 

I am going to benefit greatly if I msake a tiny bit extra space on my shop book shlf, so I can put the same area full of new books I NEED for mny NEW car, a 34 LaSalle!  Right this minute if you were here, I will show you that my new books are really not in sll one space or room in my HOME!  I do read them all in the very beginning of a new project car, but very SOON I need that shelf>

 

I know you can read by seeing ...uh..you get words on a sirte....so...you have just read thar :someone is getting free mixed VW books and literature!  Hey dummy..if you don't know THIS yety..

 

It is YOU, nmy friend. I know you CANNOT ask me why..cause I set you up!  LOL !

 

I will need some sort of shipping address for a US MAIL flat rate box, So you know what type info I will need (only) to send this box as soon as I can pull things off of maybe 3 areas!  I d=o not know how much time it will take to recall each piece! as I need to start a pile tomorrow of the :known location: stuff!  Then I will add as I am working and spot another,  SO it is SO easier for me to decide WHEN I need your info.  Do not send the PM until I ask by a PM to you..IT simply works best for me, almost like now I have no stresses!  Ok?

 

I will just ry to list a few things I do know so you get a taste test kinda!

-several VW hard cover binders from VW dealer, BUT if you were in the shops back then , you will know the VW binder cover will be printed as "up to" say 1964, but...the parts guy added new pages in there eacxh year for the new year,..Ok

 

Also some random old   >titled.   "Foreign Car" mini magazines.  I collected a few? for the fact it will each have a say 55 vw on cobver, r could be a 54 road report or just oone with dozens of ads, showing VW aftermarket goodies that were offered that also are shown in the pics!

 

Ok a thin but very  decent array of say 9x11 type big VW sales brochures you'd see at the dealer rack for customers to grab for free! Years are never shown in the eariier years... like from the later 53 bug one is first oval and you know it already would have a oval dash!  then I did try to make a RUN, meaning one for each year up to IDK maybe ?? 64 ?  IDK!  and as I said the earliest ones are all different so I think I got it right, but now YOUR turn to get headaches!!  Some later stuff or I mean, also some  T2, t4, t3 I think whatever..see ;;;>>Why keep, if I cannot recall and never look at!!

 

So there is the bulk ok? I will not post more as I know. I refuse any return "gift" of thanks...PLEASSE!!! I need clear head right now for the summer, So please let me keep on track!!!   Give a hug to someone you kinda think needs ..Ok,  That is my request that I know you will do, and I know you know it is best for me not to get any speak from you AFTER you get this stuff OK..Think of my needs on this please!!  Have a great night ooops it is another day by looking at TIME here. But who cares if day or nite!  

 

Peace!  Airhead  bro... carry the VW torch as you always have!!!  Frank in CT  P:S...never waste brain cells or concentration damage, thinking your  "56-USA,  is not as good as a euro 57, or you have an oval dash Zwitter but think you will be happier with a 51 cowl vent split.....Its all good!!! no matter!  Rock On !!..you dam well know I am !!.....  TOO

[Yellowriv]

F&J, I am concerned for your health. Your posts are becoming increasingly incomprehensible. Please either seek medical assistance or at least contact a relative, I think you need assistance.

 

All the best.

[GARY F]

I hate to say it but I agree with Yellowriv.

[keiser31]

F&J is now in a medical facility for help.

[zipdang]

1 hour ago, keiser31 said:

F&J is now in a medical facility for help.

Thank you, Keiser. I'm sure many of us were becoming concerned about one of our true car guys. I wish him well.

[theastronaut]

On 6/24/2017 at 6:26 PM, keiser31 said:

F&J is now in a medical facility for help.

 

Good deal! I don't really know much about F&J since I've been off the forum for awhile and haven't kept up the anyone's post. I checked out the last couple of pages in his LaSalle topic and saw that he's being taken care of now, hope he's well and back in action soon.  

 

 

[theastronaut]

I stopped at a local VW shop to pick up the last of the parts needed for the engine (bearings, flyhweel, clutch/PP). They also had a fairly rare Thing-only fan shroud with no heater ducts so that will work great to convert to the later style offset oil cooler.   I dropped off the rotating assembly at a machine shop to have it all balanced and to have the rods narrowed .040" to fit on the later style crank. 

 

This is the forged/counterweighted crank that's been sitting on my shelf for 8-9 years because it had a stripped oil galley plug. Back then I tried removing the plug by drilling the plug and using an Easy-out, which broke off in the plug. A couple of machine shops didn't want to fix it so it sat unused.  I used a 1/8" carbide burr with a pointed tip to grind away at the Easy-out and was able to get it loosened up.  Once the Easy-out was removed I ground the plug's ID so that a Torx bit could be driven in, which worked to back out the plug.  

 

I ordered more parts in anticipation of picking up the frame from powdercoat.

 

 

Which included a set of Porsche Fuchs wheels. 

 

 

I masked them to add the correct black background. 

 

 

 

And the body is ready for a couple coats of flattened clear.

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Shot a couple coats of lightly flattened SPI's Universal 1:1 clear.  Ended up with around 7% flattening agent added in.  Like I posted before, I'm just building a driver and wasn't going for perfect paint.  I left the faded spots and scratches, and with the flattened clear it'll look like freshly buffed 30-40 year old paint. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Started sticking some parts on it once the paint was semi-fingerprint resistant. 

 

 

First thing installed was the side trim.  I bought all new stainless trim from Wolfsburg West.  The original trim was anodized aluminum so this is much nicer. 

 

 

 

You can see the paint dulling out in these pic. 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Bolted the fenders on for good, along with the color matched fender beading.  Also installed the hood.  

 

 

I stripped and painted the running boards, then installed new mats and stainless trim. 

 

 

One of the driving light housings came in the mail today so I assembled it with a NOS Zelmot lamp I had already.  The Zelmot is actually a 5.75" high beam lamp so I'll wire it in with a relay to kick on with the high beams for more distance visibility.  There's minimal fluting molded into the lens so they'll have a narrower beam pattern than a typical high beam bulb for better long distance visibility.   

 

 

I started polishing the interior paint, got about halfway finished. 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Finished pulling out the old wiring harness and got the new one pulled through the heater channel.  Not the easiest thing to do... 

 

 

 

 

 

Installed a few more trim pieces. 

 

 

 

 

Cleaned up the speedometer and gas gauge. 

 

 

Pretty excited about the way the clear turned out. It has that buffed original paint look without all the work of constantly buffing original paint! 

 

Started on the interior. 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[GARY F]

Great looking work. Moving right along.

[theastronaut]

On 6/26/2017 at 5:04 PM, GARY F said:

Great looking work. Moving right along.

 

Thanks!

[theastronaut]

Rear seat bottom covered, my first attempt at installing seat covers. 

 

 

Also finished the carpet and all but one door panel. 

 

 

 

 

Picked up the frame, suspension parts, and engine tin from the powdercoater.  

 

 

 

 

I bought a stainless brake hard line set, which came all in straight lengths.  To keep from messing them up I made patterns with wire then bent the lines to match. Forgot to take pics of the rear lines. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

I narrowed and re-dimpled the torsion leaves so I could start reassembling the front suspension. Got it all back together except the steering box and tie rods. 

 

 

 

Finished the rear brake lines. 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[theastronaut]

Got the tires mounted and balanced and put the steering components together. 

 

 

 

Also assembled and installed the headlight assemblies. I used Cibie e-code headlights, 90/100 watt Narva H4 bulbs, and the wiring is 12g with ceramic sockets that will be hooked up to a relay harness. 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)

[Luv2Wrench]

Fantastic!!   I love your builds and this is another great one.   I wonder if you might consider dragging your projects out a little bit.  This would give us more time to enjoy your build and some of us wouldn't feel as inadequate at the speed of which you work.

 

[theastronaut]

6 hours ago, Luv2Wrench said:

Fantastic!!   I love your builds and this is another great one.   I wonder if you might consider dragging your projects out a little bit.  This would give us more time to enjoy your build and some of us wouldn't feel as inadequate at the speed of which you work.

 

Haha thanks!  The car is actually already done and I've been driving it the past week.  I'm just catching the thread up so it looks like there's been a lot of progress at once, which isn't the case.  I started the build in January.  

[theastronaut]

Installed the decklid along with a NOS license plate frame from the local VW dealership that was around in the '60s-90's.  

 

 

 

Test fit the floor mats so I could trim around the shifter and heater openings. 

 

 

 

Stripped and detailed the pedal assembly. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Detailed the rear adapters, axle tubes, horn ring, bought a radio, pulled a 912 wheel out of storage to use as the spare tire, and bought a set of German ceramic/brass fuses. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited July 20, 2017 by theastronaut (see edit history)