jonlabree Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Today I noticed that my fuel pump was (clicking) continuously. Is this a problem ? As far as I know it has been quite since I put it in a few years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Is it a "vane impeller" type OEM or and Aftermarket Turbine in that Beast? With the Powertrain setup you run- I'd definitely go with a Bosch Turbine at the least. PAGE: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1990,reatta,3.8l+231cid+v6,1019911,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 MY CHOICE: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=977691&cc=1019911&jsn=428 Unless you have higher flow injectors than OEM- that turbine should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 It would be nice if they listed the performance curve of the pumps so it would be easier to make a judgement if it can supplied the needed fuel for an upgraded combination? Something like this from the Walbro I have been using for years. This isn't a recommendation, just an example of what I mean. I couldn't find the performance curves I have seen before but illustrates what I mean. Personally I like the idea of the turbine as long as it has enough grunt. If there is a replacement designed for the later S/C engines, it would likely be just fine. Fuel Pump: GSS340 The Walbro high output in-tank electric fuel pumps are available in flow ratings of 255 liters of fuel per hour. These particular pumps flow significantly more fuel at higher pressure. For example, at 80 PSI the standard 255 lph pump will flow around 132 liters (35 gallons) per hour. At that same 80 PSI the equivalent HP (high pressure) fuel pump will flow over 210 liters (50 gallons) per hour. Walbro in-tank electric fuel pumps utilize a proven gerotor design. The outside dimensions, however, are compact enough to fit existing hanger assemblies, without modification. Coverage includes most popular Acura and Honda, and many other Import applications. OPTIONAL UNIVERSAL INSTALLATION KIT: While the pump is available ala carte, installing this pump without adequate virtually pre-filtration guarantees early failure not covered by warranty. Installing this pump with an old filter can lead to similar results. The universal installation kit offered as an upgrade to this pump features one of our depth media filters. This media acts as a wicking mechanism, feeding fuel to the pump even when the filter is only partially submerged. Also included is our GSS wiring harness that allows you to make safe, secure electrical connection to your new pump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 4 hours ago, 2seater said: For example, at 80 PSI the standard 255 lph pump will flow around 132 liters (35 gallons) per hour. At that same 80 PSI the equivalent HP (high pressure) fuel pump will flow over 210 liters (50 gallons) per hour. Would an OEM Buick system safely handle that? That's 2x over Stock. Don't the '90-'91 also have the nylon lines? Will they handle that? I don't think I'd trust our Rails to hold together long at doubled design tolerance either. And then- what about the Stock regulator, too? I can imagine- you could find or have fabricated an HD rail, with a remote regulator to handle it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 (edited) The system does not see the high pressure. The regulator sends gas back to the tank when the pressure reaches the regulator set point. The manufactures pump spec is the pressure the pump is capable of running.... Edited June 16, 2017 by Barney Eaton (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 I don't see any issues with the stock plumbing, steel or plastic, at any possible pressure the fuel pump can generate. I wasn't suggesting using that particular high pressure pump, maybe a poor choice as an example, but just a representation of the information needed for a non-stock application. Even if the pump is capable of 100 psi, the regulator on the fuel rail will control the actual pressure bypassing the excess back to tank. Just a rough example for a boosted engine of about 300hp: A safe estimate of fuel required is 0.6# per hour per horsepower, so 300hp x .6# = 180# per hour of fuel required. In this case, the pump is rated at liters per hour, and fuel weight is approx. 1.7# per liter, so 180# / 1.7 = 106LPH required @ 60psi. I am making the assumption for this example that an engine similar to ours will require 15# of boost. The fuel pressure regulator will go both directions, decreasing the pressure in the rail in response to engine vacuum and also increase pressure in an approx. 1:1 ratio in response to boost, so it should peak near 60psi at full boost pressure, using the 43.5psi standard regulator. Since this is a six cylinder, the injectors would each supply 1/6 of the total, so 180/6=30# at 100% duty. Using a safe 80%-85% duty would be 30/.80= 37.5# injectors required 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted June 16, 2017 Share Posted June 16, 2017 Sorry about that, guys- I wasn't thinking in those terms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 17, 2017 Author Share Posted June 17, 2017 I would still like to know if the clicking is a sign of trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 (edited) 28 minutes ago, 63viking said: I would still like to know if the clicking is a sign of trouble. The fact that it has started clicking after years of quiet operation would be a sign of trouble for me. Edited June 17, 2017 by Ronnie (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 17, 2017 Author Share Posted June 17, 2017 Could some on recommend a really good fuel pump. One that can handle a larger pressure and volume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted June 17, 2017 Share Posted June 17, 2017 I think you might find this GMTuners article useful in your search for a high performance fuel pump. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 17, 2017 Author Share Posted June 17, 2017 Thanks, Ronnie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 So I ordered a new Bosh fuel pump, strainer, Pulsator, Sending unit, lock ring and pump spacer and guess what? The D-mm thing stopped clicking and is acting normal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 THEY ALL PLAY NICE- WHEN THEY KNOW THEIR ABOUT TO GET YANKED OUT BY THE HAIR AND THROWN TO THE CURB. DON'T FALL FOR THAT SWEET TALK. IT WILL SENSE WHEN YOU'RE VUNERABLE- AND LEAVE YOU STRANDED SOMEWHERE. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 1 hour ago, 63viking said: So I ordered a new Bosh fuel pump, strainer, Pulsator, Sending unit, lock ring and pump spacer and guess what? The D-mm thing stopped clicking and is acting normal. Did it have a performance curve available? Just curious, as some makers don't seem to be very forthcoming with that info. If it is a replacement for the O.E.pump used in the supercharged cars, it should be fine. Running lean on a boosted engine is not good. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtidmore Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 (edited) 13 hours ago, 63viking said: So I ordered a new Bosh fuel pump, strainer, Pulsator, Sending unit, lock ring and pump spacer and guess what? The D-mm thing stopped clicking and is acting normal. You may want to leave the pulsator OFF as the Bosch is a turbine pump producing a constant pressure rather than a pulsed output like the OEM fuel pump and OEM design aftermarket pumps. The pulsator is just a push-on fit and the ethanol in our fuel attacks the rubber in the pulsator connections causing the rubber to shrink away and then you loose fuel pressure. I fought this exact issue a few years back and at the time did not know about the Bosch turbine pump, so I installed a new aftermarket pump and a genuine GM pulsator. Recently the aftermarket pump I had installed began to whine a LOT and stranded me twice, so I pulled it and installed a Bosch pump with NO pulsator. Even with the pulsator on the aftermarket pump, when I had my fuel pressure gauge on the rail, I had a jitter in the pressure reading (small, but there none the less) and with the Bosch and NO pulsator, absolutely rock solid on the pressure. I also noticed that even after only a bit over 3 years of use, the pulsator I had install new was showing signs of rubber damage due to ethanol. FYI, the Bosch comes with a short piece of fuel line hose and a couple of clamps to bypass where the pulsator would normally be installed Edited June 22, 2017 by drtidmore (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonlabree Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Thanks guys. I am going to replace it anyway. Thanks for the tip on the pulsator. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now