How I installed a hood lock on a 64.

[jsgun]

This is how I set up a hood lock for my 64 Riv. The lock itself is a cable actuated plunger style keyed lock. The cable runs from the hood latch, and the actual lock is located under the dash (bolted to the bottom bracket of the dash, much like a hood release cable). You push in a button at one end of the cable, and the other end pushes out a plunger. This kit goes by the name "HL-7", and is typically sold by "Megatronix", although mine was unbranded. It used to be made by "Wolo", but may have previously been called a "Chapman" lock. It generally runs around $99, and the "HL-7" designates 7 foot length. It also comes in 3, 5, and 6 foot length. It was just barely long enough to reach. I ran my cable through a 5/8" hole in the firewall just below the wiring junction box, and along the bottom edge of the fenderwell near the frame. I then looped it around the outside edge of the battery, through an access hole, and under the hood latch.

 

Here's the lock. Its meant to bolt to the underside of the dash. It uses the round barrel style keys. Push in the button, and it locks. Turn the key, and it unlocks, and releases the button, allowing the plunger to retract. It also has an internal switch that can be wired in to kill the ignition coil.

 

 

Here's the brackets included in the kit. It's original intent is to bolt one part to the hood underside, then the other to the radiator support. The plunger would go through the hood bracket, and lock the hood. Shown is the brackets cut apart for this installation.

 

 

I hope this pic is explanatory. The plunger pushes upwards when locked, interfering with the backside of spring retaining tab. This effectively blocks the release latch from moving. I placed the flat bracket piece against the hood latch bracket, and then drilled holes and ran bolts to hold it in place. I then mounted the cable holder to that flat bracket, slotting the holes to match each other. I then turned the plunger retainer around, and bolted it to the upper area of the hood latch bracket. This prevents the plunger from flexing. Brackets are very heavy steel, and very difficult to bend.

 

 

Here's a angle looking upward. The plunger interference with the release latch should be more visible. Everything is pretty thick steel, and isn't flexible. I plan on putting Loctite on the screws, and finding a way to paint the chrome brackets black. I may possibly make a panel that covers the whole area, to prevent screwdrivers and weather from messing with it.

 

I hope this helps!

[Black River]

Very nice! Ingenious and clean, I'll probably use the same set up.

[telriv]

I installed the same on my '64 in the 70's. It had an added feature it also cut out the ignition.

[offdensen]

Will consider doing this. Seems a lot better than my rudimentary lock that I made out of a cabinet lock and a piece of stainless steel. It keeps the honest honest, but that's about it. 

[jsgun]

On ‎6‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 6:58 PM, Black River said:

Very nice! Ingenious and clean, I'll probably use the same set up.

Thanks! The only thing I'd do different, is move everything up 1/8th inch closer to the tab. I think it would make it a little more stiffer. The hardest part was drilling the hole through the firewall.

 

I originally started with a 3 ft version that I got dirt cheap on ebay. The idea was to have the lock facing down, behind the bumper. But I was concerned that road dirt would eventually jam the lock. Getting inside the car should keep it clean.

[jsgun]

18 hours ago, telriv said:

I installed the same on my '64 in the 70's. It had an added feature it also cut out the ignition.

I suspect this is the same model. It appears to be high quality, and is very heavy. This also has a kill switch in it, and I intend to eventually wire it in

[JanZverina]

Thanks for the tutorial, jsgun. I've been looking for a 'Chapman' lock for some time for my '63, so this was the clue I needed. Unfortunately the first lock they sent me was defective - one could not push in the lock plunger even when the cable was perfectly straight. But they made good on it and sent me another one. And yes, drilling the firewall hole was lots of fun, especially make sure not to drill into the back of the brake booster. So a punch came in handy to mark the spot and confirm from the engine compartment side before drilling began. Here are some pix - I painted the bracket semi-gloss black to blend in a bit.

Thanks again!  (Sorry that the first one is sideways - is there a way to rotate them after they are posted?)

[jsgun]

glad to help! I was concerned about the cable binding, so I loaded it up some with Gibb's. The firewall hole was a bit nerve-wracking, I must have checked the location 10 times before committing to it.