fordrodsteven

code 031 - do I need to remove transmission?

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89RedDarkGrey    252

Reply from David Allen:

 

"Hi Bob - yes I am on assignment!  Not sure when I will be able to go over that thread.

 

Sorry this is a really involved assignment!"

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89RedDarkGrey    252

NEW ANSWER FROM DAVID ALLEN:

 

Bob, that shift lever pin is driven in like a nail. You will need to use a nail prybar to pull it out. It does come out and can be driven back in by tapping gently with a hammer. I have also clamped vise-grip pliers on it and used a “regular” prybar to pry the vise grips upward and pull the pin out.

 

Hope this helps!

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39 minutes ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

NEW ANSWER FROM DAVID ALLEN:

 

Bob, that shift lever pin is driven in like a nail. You will need to use a nail prybar to pull it out. It does come out and can be driven back in by tapping gently with a hammer. I have also clamped vise-grip pliers on it and used a “regular” prybar to pry the vise grips upward and pull the pin out.

 

Hope this helps!

Thank you. Thank you! Thank you! Did I say.... Thank you!?

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
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89RedDarkGrey    252

ANOTHER REPLY:

 

You’re welcome!

 

Just read more about the pin issue.

 

The pin is NOT threaded in any way and it pulls straight out.

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Ronnie    369
4 minutes ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

ANOTHER REPLY:

 

You’re welcome!

 

Just read more about the pin issue.

 

The pin is NOT threaded in any way and it pulls straight out.

 

Who would have ever thought it was driven in like a nail and would just pull straight out. Good work Bob!

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Ronnie    369
On 7/9/2017 at 9:44 PM, Ronnie said:

This is just a guess from a machinists point of view... it looks like the pin might be deformed in the center so it is a one time press fit that might driven in like a nail.

 

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Ronnie    369

The pin was exactly what I thought it would look like and what I tried to describe in my post on Sunday. Anyone who has ran an automatic screw machine that makes this type of pin, will recognize the rings under the head of the pin as being the result of a die clamping around the pin body while the head of the pin is cold formed (sometimes called cold heading).

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I ordered the "lever" shaft (24236102) on-line. When I clicked on GMPARTSDIRECT it took me to "FLOW CHEVROLET" . I submitted the order on July 10th. Today (July 15th) it says it is "on order". I'm getting a bad feeling I might soon get a message that the part is unavailable.

 

Dang it!. I decided to check for any other sources just in case and I found one on E-Bay with a picture. They changed the design when they superceded the part. It no longer has the threaded extension on the bottom. That means for me to use it I may have to remove the valve body from my transmission in order to have clearance to slide the new shaft up into the hole.s-l1600.jpg

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)

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89RedDarkGrey    252
34 minutes ago, fordrodsteven said:

When I clicked on GMPARTSDIRECT it took me to "FLOW CHEVROLET" .

 

That's the Dealership who Sponsors GM Parts Direct. The only place to sometimes find a part is when a Dealer has it in their Parts room.

 

Another company I suggested earlier was http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/24236102.html that offered many Dealerships. Many Dealers have created online "stores" where they sell low-demand NOS parts, and OEMCATS is a service that's like a locator, for part numbers, sets, assemblies, and Dealer inventory.

 

I posted this in post #44 of this thread- but for some reason it was ignored. At least you found the (superceded) part. If you had some tool stock and access to a lathe- you could easily make your own shaft. Is your Rooster Comb bent or mangled?

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8 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

 

I posted this in post #44 of this thread- but for some reason it was ignored. At least you found the (superceded) part. If you had some tool stock and access to a lathe- you could easily make your own shaft. Is your Rooster Comb bent or mangled?

 

Easy friend! It's not that I was ignoring you. I already have an account with GMpartsdirect and I have gotten parts from Flow Chevrolet before. I don't have access to a metal cutting lathe but I agree I could probably get a shaft made. I do need the new shaft so I can insure proper orientation of the flats to each other. No my rooster comb is fine.

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89RedDarkGrey    252

Ok- your post had the air of "what happened" to it. Flow S&H can get pricey. When I bought my Cradle bolts- 3 came from 1 Vendor, and 1 from another. They added the S&H to them first, then me. That one bolt cost the shelf price of 2 to ship. Go figure.

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Well I made a little progress today and so far it looks good! I was unable to find the exact replacement shaft (8646946) ( unless I decided to salvage one from another transmission). So I had ordered the newer part number (24236102) and I already had it in my hot little hands. I was trying to figure out how the get the shaft with threads on the lower end. Then I had an epiphany!. I didn't have to have male threads on the end I could make it work with female threads. I ground away the peened over material on the new part then drilled and tapped a hole so I could install it using a bolt. I figured it would be the same level of difficulty to get it re-assembled whether I was installing a nut or a bolt. Here are some pictures of what I did. I put Loctite on there and I don't think it will cause any future problems.

 

 

new old compare.JPG

new mods.JPG

new installed3.JPG

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89RedDarkGrey    252

I really like how you indexed the shaft for correct alignment to the Comb, very nice job! The Loctite and bolt should be fine, as good as OEM:D.

 

If you don't get a new side cover gasket- if the old one is intact- you can whet it (rub in both sides) Permatex Gasket Dressing to renew it sufficiently enough for a good seal.

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-ultra-rubber-gasket-sealant-and-dressing-1-oz-85409/7160081-P?searchTerm=gasket+dressing

 

Or- eliminate the gasket, and use Ultimate Black RTV- https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3.35-oz-82180-82150/7160059-P

 

Either way- make sure all sealing mating surfaces are mechanically and chemically cleaned (brake cleaner or acetone) to ensure a bond. That's a sucky place to have a leak later:(

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DONE!. I took it out for a drive. Everything is functioning as it should. Happy! Happy! I also changed out the front brake hoses along with replacing three lower trans mounts, engine oil pan gasket, outer CV boots, Rack & pinion boot, lower ball joints, torsion bar bushings, front ABS leads/sensors and sway bar links.

Edited by fordrodsteven (see edit history)
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