Ronnie Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 You will come up with a way to get it out. I would avoid bending or twisting it to keep it from breaking. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 No reply yet from David. Please examine this- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Was reading your posts @ROJ. I input your PN from Henning to a parts website I use for reference. It has the correct description and AC Delco PN too. HERE and also cross references to HERE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 MORE cross referencing- HERE AND HERE (sold out) and... a photo! Minus that pin! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 12 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: When I look at the diagram in the book it appears to be more like a stepped down nail with some sort of collar on it. The collar is probably like a snap ring that opens up a little bit into a groove in the case. I think the 47MM is the length and the 4.16 is the diameter. Otherwise I would expect to see something designating number of threads per MM. something like M10-1.5. Anyway 47MM is definitely not the diameter of this part. (47MM is 1.85 inches). I saw on the close-up that you questioned whether those are threads on the shaft of the pin. Those "threads" stop before it goes into the hole. Might have some purpose for the tooling used to install the pin into the case. 8 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: MORE cross referencing- HERE AND HERE (sold out) and... a photo! Minus that pin! I hope when I get the nut off the bottom of that shaft that I can separate the plate. I can re-assemble into the transmission as long as the shaft drops in the top and goes down into the plate. If I have to slide the shaft up into the hole on the transmission I will have to dis-assemble the valve body that is just below the detent plate. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Maybe attach a slide hammer to the head, or Vise grips and tap vise grips with hammer. Or- you could just bend the dammed thing back-n-forth, snap it off, file away smooth enough to remove the shaft? Get the new part, then figure out a suitable pin replacement. I'd spend about ten minutes messing with an old broken part like that- that has to come out anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) 46 minutes ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: Maybe attach a slide hammer to the head, or Vise grips and tap vise grips with hammer. Or- you could just bend the dammed thing back-n-forth, snap it off, file away smooth enough to remove the shaft? Get the new part, then figure out a suitable pin replacement. I'd spend about ten minutes messing with an old broken part like that- that has to come out anyway. I don't think that idea of breaking the pin off will work.. Take a look at the photo below. The pin goes through the SIDE of the large hole for the shifter shaft - approximately in a line I have highlighted in red. Inside the large hole it goes though the grove in the side of the shifter shaft and continues into a blind hole in the case. The pins purpose is to hold the shifter shaft in place in the hole and still allow it to rotate. In my opinion breaking the head the pin off would only compound an already bad situation. I know you want to help. The best thing you could do to help is get in touch with your friend David Allen and get him to tell us how the pin comes out. Edited July 11, 2017 by Ronnie (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: Maybe attach a slide hammer to the head, or Vise grips and tap vise grips with hammer. Or- you could just bend the dammed thing back-n-forth, snap it off, file away smooth enough to remove the shaft? Get the new part, then figure out a suitable pin replacement. I'd spend about ten minutes messing with an old broken part like that- that has to come out anyway. I made a slide hammer tool today. I am attaching pictures. I am reluctant to just whack it with the slide hammer because I don't know what method is utilized to hold the pin in the hole. I am also afraid of ripping the head right off the pin if it is held in firmly by some mechanical means rather than by press fit friction. Ron is correct in that the pin goes through past the shaft and is used to lock the shaft at a certain height and not move up or down. I am attaching a view of a look down the shaft hole and you can see the pin at the side of the hole. Another issue is that the pin head is inside the case pan mounting surface and not much access with all the rest of the transmission still assembled. I also appears that I have already slightly bent the pin when I was prying it with a small pry bar. Edited July 11, 2017 by fordrodsteven (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 That's some nice fabrication. On 7/10/2017 at 2:40 PM, fordrodsteven said: Yes, Similar to a nail. Yes it's a blind hole That's what was incorrect, making me incorrect. 38 minutes ago, Ronnie said: In my opinion breaking the head the pin off would only compound an already bad situation. I know you want to help. The best thing you could do to help is get in touch with your friend David Allen and get him to tell us how the pin comes out. Agreed. I will try to contact him again. He may be out of country again. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 Reply from David Allen: "Hi Bob - yes I am on assignment! Not sure when I will be able to go over that thread. Sorry this is a really involved assignment!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 NEW ANSWER FROM DAVID ALLEN: Bob, that shift lever pin is driven in like a nail. You will need to use a nail prybar to pull it out. It does come out and can be driven back in by tapping gently with a hammer. I have also clamped vise-grip pliers on it and used a “regular” prybar to pry the vise grips upward and pull the pin out. Hope this helps! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) 39 minutes ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: NEW ANSWER FROM DAVID ALLEN: Bob, that shift lever pin is driven in like a nail. You will need to use a nail prybar to pull it out. It does come out and can be driven back in by tapping gently with a hammer. I have also clamped vise-grip pliers on it and used a “regular” prybar to pry the vise grips upward and pull the pin out. Hope this helps! Thank you. Thank you! Thank you! Did I say.... Thank you!? Edited July 12, 2017 by fordrodsteven (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 ANOTHER REPLY: You’re welcome! Just read more about the pin issue. The pin is NOT threaded in any way and it pulls straight out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 4 minutes ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: ANOTHER REPLY: You’re welcome! Just read more about the pin issue. The pin is NOT threaded in any way and it pulls straight out. Who would have ever thought it was driven in like a nail and would just pull straight out. Good work Bob! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 On 7/9/2017 at 9:44 PM, Ronnie said: This is just a guess from a machinists point of view... it looks like the pin might be deformed in the center so it is a one time press fit that might driven in like a nail. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 12, 2017 Author Share Posted July 12, 2017 Nailed it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 The pin was exactly what I thought it would look like and what I tried to describe in my post on Sunday. Anyone who has ran an automatic screw machine that makes this type of pin, will recognize the rings under the head of the pin as being the result of a die clamping around the pin body while the head of the pin is cold formed (sometimes called cold heading). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 Woo Hoo, great news! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 15, 2017 Author Share Posted July 15, 2017 (edited) I ordered the "lever" shaft (24236102) on-line. When I clicked on GMPARTSDIRECT it took me to "FLOW CHEVROLET" . I submitted the order on July 10th. Today (July 15th) it says it is "on order". I'm getting a bad feeling I might soon get a message that the part is unavailable. Dang it!. I decided to check for any other sources just in case and I found one on E-Bay with a picture. They changed the design when they superceded the part. It no longer has the threaded extension on the bottom. That means for me to use it I may have to remove the valve body from my transmission in order to have clearance to slide the new shaft up into the hole. Edited July 15, 2017 by fordrodsteven (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 15, 2017 Share Posted July 15, 2017 34 minutes ago, fordrodsteven said: When I clicked on GMPARTSDIRECT it took me to "FLOW CHEVROLET" . That's the Dealership who Sponsors GM Parts Direct. The only place to sometimes find a part is when a Dealer has it in their Parts room. Another company I suggested earlier was http://oemcats.com/oem-parts/24236102.html that offered many Dealerships. Many Dealers have created online "stores" where they sell low-demand NOS parts, and OEMCATS is a service that's like a locator, for part numbers, sets, assemblies, and Dealer inventory. I posted this in post #44 of this thread- but for some reason it was ignored. At least you found the (superceded) part. If you had some tool stock and access to a lathe- you could easily make your own shaft. Is your Rooster Comb bent or mangled? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 16, 2017 Author Share Posted July 16, 2017 8 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said: I posted this in post #44 of this thread- but for some reason it was ignored. At least you found the (superceded) part. If you had some tool stock and access to a lathe- you could easily make your own shaft. Is your Rooster Comb bent or mangled? Easy friend! It's not that I was ignoring you. I already have an account with GMpartsdirect and I have gotten parts from Flow Chevrolet before. I don't have access to a metal cutting lathe but I agree I could probably get a shaft made. I do need the new shaft so I can insure proper orientation of the flats to each other. No my rooster comb is fine. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 16, 2017 Share Posted July 16, 2017 Ok- your post had the air of "what happened" to it. Flow S&H can get pricey. When I bought my Cradle bolts- 3 came from 1 Vendor, and 1 from another. They added the S&H to them first, then me. That one bolt cost the shelf price of 2 to ship. Go figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Well I made a little progress today and so far it looks good! I was unable to find the exact replacement shaft (8646946) ( unless I decided to salvage one from another transmission). So I had ordered the newer part number (24236102) and I already had it in my hot little hands. I was trying to figure out how the get the shaft with threads on the lower end. Then I had an epiphany!. I didn't have to have male threads on the end I could make it work with female threads. I ground away the peened over material on the new part then drilled and tapped a hole so I could install it using a bolt. I figured it would be the same level of difficulty to get it re-assembled whether I was installing a nut or a bolt. Here are some pictures of what I did. I put Loctite on there and I don't think it will cause any future problems. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 AWESOME Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89RedDarkGrey Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 I really like how you indexed the shaft for correct alignment to the Comb, very nice job! The Loctite and bolt should be fine, as good as OEM. If you don't get a new side cover gasket- if the old one is intact- you can whet it (rub in both sides) Permatex Gasket Dressing to renew it sufficiently enough for a good seal. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-ultra-rubber-gasket-sealant-and-dressing-1-oz-85409/7160081-P?searchTerm=gasket+dressing Or- eliminate the gasket, and use Ultimate Black RTV- https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3.35-oz-82180-82150/7160059-P Either way- make sure all sealing mating surfaces are mechanically and chemically cleaned (brake cleaner or acetone) to ensure a bond. That's a sucky place to have a leak later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fordrodsteven Posted August 6, 2017 Author Share Posted August 6, 2017 (edited) DONE!. I took it out for a drive. Everything is functioning as it should. Happy! Happy! I also changed out the front brake hoses along with replacing three lower trans mounts, engine oil pan gasket, outer CV boots, Rack & pinion boot, lower ball joints, torsion bar bushings, front ABS leads/sensors and sway bar links. Edited August 6, 2017 by fordrodsteven (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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