The Caponemobile Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Re: Chrysler 77 emergency brake My 1930 Chrysler 77 Sedan has a problem with the emergency, or “parking” brake. It does not hold when the car is on a hill: it allows the car to roll back. On some situations that requires the agility of a ballet dancer, and I am not one. According to the manual, I need to space the brake band 1/16 inch away from drum (on the drive shaft) all around. The procedure is clear, and I understand it. I have two questions, and in the case of the first one, I admit I haven’t looked for the answer. The first question is, can I adjust the parking brake by lifting the floor boards? At my age, getting “out and under” is no problem. Getting up after is not so easy. I have a friend who will let me put my car on a lift, but that introduces the problem of getting to the lever in the car to check adjustments. Doing the job with the rear wheels off the ground is easier obviously, if I can work through the floor of the cab. My second question is, can I use shims between the brake drum and the shoe to establish the 1/16 inch clearance between drum and shoe? I would presume that if I made adjustments in the order prescribed in the manual –until the inserted shims moved with slight friction, that I would be about as close to the required adjustment as any visual adjustment would achieve. I will be grateful for any opinions and advice that the experienced can offer. I am a neophyte with this car, and a recent owner. I am sure to have more probably naïve questions about a car that is about as much fun as I can have with my clothes on, or off, at this age. Thanks for your help. Jcl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Should be able to reach the band adjustment by removing the wood sections (and maybe the center metal section) of the floor. If it is like my 1931 DB, there is a removable center section. The idea about the shim or feeler gauge for adjustment should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sasha39 Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Just removing the wooden sections of the floor boards will give you more than enough room to work in. I'm here in Australia so the Steering column and foot pedals are on the wrong side but the photo should give you an indication of the work area. Like keiser31 says a shim or feeler gauge will work a treat, good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 Its possible that it could also be oil/grease on the drum and/or the brake lining. I have to dismantle the band and give it a good clean every 6-12 months on my '28 series 62. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hchris Posted June 6, 2017 Share Posted June 6, 2017 22 hours ago, The Caponemobile said: Re: Chrysler 77 emergency brake My 1930 Chrysler 77 Sedan has a problem with the emergency, or “parking” brake. It does not hold when the car is on a hill: it allows the car to roll back. On some situations that requires the agility of a ballet dancer, and I am not one. According to the manual, I need to space the brake band 1/16 inch away from drum (on the drive shaft) all around. The procedure is clear, and I understand it. I have two questions, and in the case of the first one, I admit I haven’t looked for the answer. The first question is, can I adjust the parking brake by lifting the floor boards? At my age, getting “out and under” is no problem. Getting up after is not so easy. I have a friend who will let me put my car on a lift, but that introduces the problem of getting to the lever in the car to check adjustments. Doing the job with the rear wheels off the ground is easier obviously, if I can work through the floor of the cab. My second question is, can I use shims between the brake drum and the shoe to establish the 1/16 inch clearance between drum and shoe? I would presume that if I made adjustments in the order prescribed in the manual –until the inserted shims moved with slight friction, that I would be about as close to the required adjustment as any visual adjustment would achieve. I will be grateful for any opinions and advice that the experienced can offer. I am a neophyte with this car, and a recent owner. I am sure to have more probably naïve questions about a car that is about as much fun as I can have with my clothes on, or off, at this age. Thanks for your help. Jcl The 1/16 is really an arbitrary number, so I wouldn't be bothering with shims. What you may find is an accumulation of oil and other contaminants on the brake bits, cleaning with a good solvent may help matters, if however the lining is worn too far then relining is the only option, you will find this out if you run out of adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 I have used the 1/16th for setup of stationary side and tighten adjusting side until it starts to rub . raise rear wheels and turn by hand . If new lining may have some high spot need wearing in . Your trying to get maximum contact when setting brake . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pre1939chrysler Posted June 9, 2017 Share Posted June 9, 2017 The big question ,is the ratchet teeth still sharp and hold the hand break chock. id the chock still good. What does the car do whenh you pull back on the break"J Jay 610-863-6955 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Caponemobile Posted June 9, 2017 Author Share Posted June 9, 2017 Today I put the car on a lift at my friend's garage, and we successfully adjusted the hand brake, following the order of procedure in the 1930 manual. The ratchet or "chock" holds well, and by all appearance is dependable. I think we could have made the brake bands a little tighter since the lever goes almost all the way back. The brake is working; holds on a hill in reverse, and we will have to see what's next. I hope nothing for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Caponemobile Posted June 9, 2017 Author Share Posted June 9, 2017 Sorry, my message got sent before I could say thanks to all who helped with this problem. May all your problems be solved as easily as was this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 Excellent outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Caponemobile Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 Sorry to report that the outcome on the emergency brake repair was not so excellent. A day later the brake was again undependable, and it got worse. There was a reason, of course. Upon repeat of the prescribed adjustment sequence we discovered that the thread on the adjusting bolt was stripped. Everything was set as it should be, pull the brake lever, and the nut on the bolt released so that the third setting in the sequence was lost. As a machinist, I suppose I should make a new bolt. For the moment, I am too lazy. That is a job for the winter months. For now, we solved the problem by finding a 7/16, 14 tpi nut to thread down the good exposed threads, and then on top of the original nut. So far, so good; fingers crossed. I don't know if my discovery is a chronic problem with early Chrysler drive shaft emergency brakes, of if someone before me got a little carried away trying to make an adjustment. I will report if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I sometimes experience the need for an "emergency brake" , However I am confused if this is what that really is. I use a "parking brake" much more often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Caponemobile Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 My father learned to drive in 1916, and he always referred to "that brake" as the emergency brake. I learned to drive from my father, and predictably used the terms he taught me. In the standard shift cars where I learned to drive, one of the requirements to get a driver's license was to stop, and again start up the car on a hill without rolling back. This required use of the "emergency brake," as part of the ability to put the car in gear, accelerate the engine as you raised the clutch, and simultaneously release the emergency brake. No points for stalling the engine. Perhaps the best name for that brake would be the "anti-emergency brake." I was also taught to park the car with the manual brake set, the car left in gear, and the front wheels turned so that the car would hit the curb, or whatever the circumstances made practical if the car should role. I just decided to check the Chrysler Owners Manual. It refers to "the Hand Brake." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maok Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 My '28 manual calls the level the 'hand brake' but deep in the manual, the drum assembly is referred to as the 'emergency brake'. Both terms are probably for most people, interchangeable. User Manual page 69.pdf User Manual page 69.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
31model70 Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 I had a similar problem on my '31 Model 70. The brake lever would pull back to it's fullest travel but would not hold the car when applied. I adjusted the shoe to the proper clearance but it still would not hold. I ended up removing the non-adjustable actuating rod and replacing it with and adjustable one that allowed me to have the brake fully set with the lever at only half it's travel. Glen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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