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1929 Chrysler 65 info/help wanted


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Hi all I'm fairly new to the Chrysler game but have been a vintage car man for while so please humour me if I say or ask something silly. About 18 months ago I got myself a 1929 Chrysler 65  sedan to play with. We are in Australia but the car has a Hayes body I have been told that this is something different to most here as the were bodied locally. I have included some photos, one is the body badge and you may be able to see that the timber has been stamped RHD to the bottom right of this badge.

Any info on this vehicle or where I might find info would be appreciated. By the way if I have read the fedco no. Correct it is DW658E or may be 55 instead of 65. 

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Hi Vintageben,

Don't know about American bodied but yes it would have been very unusually to have the whole car imported back in 1929, could it be that it was imported much later in it's life? Also any chance for a photo of the Fedco plate? DW is correct for a 1929 model I believe that it would have been built in Feb. 1929

Edited by Sasha39 (see edit history)
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Hi Sasha

thanks for that info, I believe that this vehicle has always been in Australia but have very little history on it at any rate it has always been right hand drive. Hopefully the photos I have taken of the fedco plate are clear I also included a photo of the the old rego sticker on the windscreen. I'm going to talk to RMS to see if they can search the old rego no. For any info. Also just wondering if  you have any photos of the running board edging as I'm not happy with what's on the car, thanks again

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My drawings of the trim for most Chrysler cars of that era....similar to my 1931 trim....the first drawing is the outer trim. The second drawing is the trim between the splash apron and running board....

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Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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4 hours ago, keiser31 said:

My drawings of the trim for most Chrysler cars of that era....similar to my 1931 trim....the first drawing is the outer trim. The second drawing is the trim between the splash apron and running board....

 

Xclnt drawings. Thank you. How was the outer edge piece attached?

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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:

Xclnt drawings. Thank you. How was the outer edge piece attached?

The curved, outer piece has a metal base inside the aluminum outer shell. The metal base plate has tabs that fit into the running board. Here are the slots in the running board. You can see the thin, metal base with the tabs on it crimped into the top part of the outer trim. This metal base is what rusts and starts the running board trim and rubber going bad. One of these days, i will dissect the trim piece and remove the base part to do another drawing of those pieces. The end caps, which I do not show, hold the trim onto the outer running board edge and the end pieces are riveted to the running boards.

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Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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The lower lip of the outer piece slips onto the running board edge and then the tabs on the metal base slide into the slots at the top of the outer curve. The rubber goes on first. Then the ends are installed in order to hold the outer trim piece on. The inner trim piece at the splash apron is held on with the running board bolts and may have rivets on them, too.

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Xclnt! Thank you very much.

 

Along with photos you have previously posted, I now have a pretty good idea of how it works. I have always been perplexed by this. Repro. edge pieces came with my car when I bought it 20+ years ago but not the ends or the tab strip. I have wooden running boards that doesn't help visualise it either. I will have to imagine the running board dimensions to have some fabricated.

Edited by Spinneyhill (see edit history)
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Yes they certainly do look like pain. Well what I have is functioning and will do while I figure out something better or find some at a swap, I know the chances of that are slim but I was chasing a decent U2 carby for this car as the one on it was warped and cracked etc. I had mentioned it to few of the blokes in the local club," I said to them you never know I might pick one up at a swap. " A doubtful "Good luck" was their response. Any way earlier this year I went to the Toowoomba Swap, within 5 minutes of walking in I find a fully rebuilt Stromburg U2 for $50 needless to say I couldn't get the money out of my wallet quick enough What luck. So I will keep an eye out and hope I still have some luck left

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10 minutes ago, Vintageben said:

Yes they certainly do look like pain. Well what I have is functioning and will do while I figure out something better or find some at a swap, I know the chances of that are slim but I was chasing a decent U2 carby for this car as the one on it was warped and cracked etc. I had mentioned it to few of the blokes in the local club," I said to them you never know I might pick one up at a swap. " A doubtful "Good luck" was their response. Any way earlier this year I went to the Toowoomba Swap, within 5 minutes of walking in I find a fully rebuilt Stromburg U2 for $50 needless to say I couldn't get the money out of my wallet quick enough What luck. So I will keep an eye out and hope I still have some luck left

DOH!  I missed this years Toowoomba swap meet.

 

I'll give you $51 for it...:)

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Marty Lum did make repro running board metal for myself and others, L&L Auto trim sold me repro aluminum trim. I opted out of buying 50ft of reproduction rubber matting and used Brand X Model A instead (only 5-10 people worldwide would notice). The end result was very pleasant and not especially expensive. Second picture shows redone board alongside NOS.

 

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Thanks for the help on the running boards. 

Now for the next issue the motor, it runs not perfect but ok, well not that good in actual fact I would say I have very little confidence in the health of it. I feel it runs a bit warm at say 160 on easy running doing about 40-45 mph if I push it above this or going up hills it quickly climbs to 180, is this normal I'm thinking not. Also it has  a funny noise at certain revs Im prity sure its not bottom end as I have really good oil pressure and I have done big ends in my chev before so I know the sound a little too well. Any ideas would be welcomed but I'm thinks a top end rebuild might be in order any thoughts or tips on doing this would be appreciated 

 

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