dracenroc Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 When pressing the clutch of my 1928 Master Six it generates some tinkling noise, as soon as I release the pedal and the clutch engages it stops. I cannot tell if this also happens during shifting when I'm driving (the car is not road worthy at the time). Any clues where I should to focus on? Thanks, Werner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Sounds like it is a worn clutch release bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary W Posted May 7, 2017 Share Posted May 7, 2017 Maybe the pilot bearing is dry. Check the throwout bearing as well. My '37 made a funny sound everytime I depressed the clutch pedal. The pilot bearing was dry as a bone. Cleaned it real good, greased it and reinstalled it. No noise now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracenroc Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 Thanks for your help! Will check this out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 (edited) The splines/teeth on the clutch discs are worn and they rattle around on the hub when the clutch is disengaged. Edited May 8, 2017 by Brian_Heil (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracenroc Posted May 8, 2017 Author Share Posted May 8, 2017 (edited) Brian, just to make sure: you mean the teeth inside of the 5 discs of the clutch? Or the five outside, or even in-and outside? Which one are the one with the linings, the one with the inside or outside splines? Edited May 8, 2017 by dracenroc (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 5 hours ago, Brian_Heil said: The splines/teeth on the clutch discs are worn and they rattle around on the hub when the clutch is disengaged. Brian, Your replacement will be on it's way soon... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 5 hours ago, dracenroc said: Brian, just to make sure: you mean the teeth inside of the 5 discs of the clutch? Or the five outside, or even in-and outside? Which one are the one with the linings, the one with the inside or outside splines? Not sure, if not both but check them for wear. My 1923 does this and the teeth are much wider. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26-25Buick Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 A photo of my worn hub. The teeth on the clutch plates that mesh with the hub rather than being a nice U shape were more like V. Eventually it got so worn the clutch plates got stuck in the grooves in the hub and the clutch wouldn't engage and you could no longer change gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 In the pic above the disc spline teeth have made small grooves in the hub which makes the discs loose on the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracenroc Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 Uuh...I'm not sure if I really want to open this stuff ;-) Anyway, it will take a while, need to fix something else first. Thanks you all for the advice! Btw: are this disks/lining and/or hubs available somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracenroc Posted November 25, 2017 Author Share Posted November 25, 2017 Tranny and engine is out of the car since a few days. Looking at the clutch plate there is some wear visible. Is this usual or excessive? I can move the outer ring of the bearing forward and backward. As far as I know this shouldn't be possible on bearings, at least the one I had changed the last few years but I never had something to do with a clutch release bearing. Might that be the cause for this tinkling noise pushing the clutch pedal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted November 27, 2017 Share Posted November 27, 2017 I am no expert, but the wear on the release plate seems normal. After all, the clutch is spinning and the bearing is not when they touch, so some scoring is expected. The inner and outer races of the release bearing should not have excessive play. Having just gone through the labor of removing and reinstalling the drive train on my car, there is no way I would go down this far and NOT remove the clutch for inspection and cleaning, as well as replacing the release bearing and pilot bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fred Rawling Posted November 28, 2017 Share Posted November 28, 2017 If you want a good used clutch, I have some for $20.00 plus shipping. Fred Rawling 562 644 4670 fred.rawling@live.com 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracenroc Posted November 28, 2017 Author Share Posted November 28, 2017 Thanks for your offer Fred! I dismantled the clutch today, it looks pretty good. The bearing seems to be in good condition as well. While removing the hub touching it slightly to the clutch I heard the same sound when i push the clutch. Hitting it slightly with a metal bar it sounds like a triangle or a tuning fork. I don't know why it makes that sound but the clutch seems to be ok. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 That clutch looks recently relined and the nuts look brand new and modern 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 i would machine .020 off of evry other clutch lining on one side that would make the hole thing wear in new spot or just take .like a lot off of the one closest to to the pilot bearing that would do the same thing but a lot ezer to do kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 13 hours ago, hidden_hunter said: That clutch looks recently relined and the nuts look brand new and modern Yes it does. For comparison, here's how mine looked when I removed it. The clutch was stuck and would not disengage. After cleaning and measuring plate thicknesses, I replaced one friction plate and reinstalled. Works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracenroc Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Mine might be too thick, the linings. I will measure the linings. Compared to yours, donb27, I have only the outer holes visible on the three bolts, just 3/4 of the boring. 1/4 is covered by the outer plate. In your first picture, before dismantling it I guess, the complete boring in the bolt is visible. What are the cotter pins (in a 2nd hole?) for? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 (edited) 47 minutes ago, dracenroc said: What are the cotter pins (in a 2nd hole?) for? They are 2 small screws, to hold the spring compressed. I compressed the assembly in a hydraulic press, and put in the screws. That allowed the spline hub to float in the clutch, making it easier to reinstall the transmission. Once it was back in, I depressed the clutch pedal and removed the screws with a magnet. I have heard of clutches being relined too thick causing release problems. In the manual I have I think there is only a minimum thickness, which all my plates easily exceeded. But your issue was a sound and rattle, so friction material thickness may not be the cause. My clutch never did and still does not engage right away, in fact it does near the end of the pedal travel. But, it is original and has wear, so that's expected. It doesn't slip which is all I care about! Edited November 29, 2017 by 27donb (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dracenroc Posted November 29, 2017 Author Share Posted November 29, 2017 Great idea! Will copy it when I'm going to install my tranny again....with your allowance :-) Mine works actually correctly, no slip and proper engagement, just the noms as you said. I can live with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 1 hour ago, dracenroc said: Great idea! Will copy it when I'm going to install my tranny again....with your allowance :-) Mine works actually correctly, no slip and proper engagement, just the noms as you said. I can live with that. Actually, my picture is so blurry... I actually used 3 screws. I had forgotten... I wondered if it was like a modern clutch that needed a pilot bearing alignment tool for the clutch, but I couldn't figure out how to align the splined hub and then engage the clutch to hold it there, without the transmission and clutch pedal in place, so I just put it together the way it came apart. On my crankcase there is one stud, the rest are bolts. I added two other long studs temporarily, to help guide the transmission on squarely. It worked. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now