old generator repair

[ken1007]

Recently had 1935 generator repaired but re-builder said cut out was bad and he did not have one, generator was otherwise OK.  It's an Autolite GCM4802A-4.  Where can I get a cut out  for this generator?  Ken, Deltaville, Va 

 

 

added:  It's a 1935 Studebaker Dictator 4 door model, but it has a 1936 Studebaker replacement 6 cy engine.  I'm told the generator is from 1937.   Ken 

Edited May 8, 2017 by ken1007 (see edit history)

[edinmass]

You need to add more info, as there are cut outs, and cut out regulators. Year,make,model, series, ect. Should be easy to find, and don't assume what you are asking for is correct. It could have been swapped out of modified. 

[Spinneyhill]

There are a number available on eBay at the moment.

 

If you want to know what model cutout your car was fitted with by the factory, tell us the make model serial etc. The cutout model is listed in the National Data manual of the '30s and I can look it up for you.

[Willie Wurke]

Sounds like you still have the bad cutout; if so get an old mechanic that knows electricity to open it and "sneak" a diode in it.

[Spinneyhill]

We answered as to the cutout model you need for that gen. in your Studebaker forum thread on this topic.

[ken1007]

21 hours ago, Willie Wurke said:

Sounds like you still have the bad cutout; if so get an old mechanic that knows electricity to open it and "sneak" a diode in it.

Thanks, you have essentially hit dead on the problem I'm having; it's finding the "old mechanic" who knows "electricity" vs what the computer tell him to replace a broken item.  Most of those guys are gone thanks to electronic imports.  In fact the old guy who overhauled my generator is in the process of going out of business by the end of the month.  Most others are already gone.  This appears to be a fairly simple issue.  This  is minimum electrical demand,  no AC, no PS, no radio, and the lights may never be turn on, this leaves only  gauges and ignition demand. but i do not want to have an burn up the battery or have an

 

16 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

We answered as to the cutout model you need for that gen. in your Studebaker forum thread on this topic.

electrical fire.  Ken 

[ken1007]

On 5/11/2017 at 4:00 PM, Spinneyhill said:

We answered as to the cutout model you need for that gen. in your Studebaker forum thread on this topic.

Thanks, appreciate your help, am having computer trouble so not sure this will get to you.  First I do have a number (hundreds) of pictures of a 35-36 model Dicators that I used  help in  restoration.  Your friend will find it to be  real character building experience especially with a Canadian built car as parts can be different.   The car I have was  basically stripped of  but the Bondo filled body, no interior at all, no top,  and had many parts that were either missing and or not suited to/for restoration.  Some of those parts do not exist and in one case had trunk latches machined.   Tell him to be careful if he removes the headlight lens and not break the lens or the three clips that hold the lens frame in place.  Finding the correct interior is also a challenge, currently talking with Loga but their experience starts with the 36 model.  You might want to contact Bob Johnstone on the Studebaker form as many of the photos came from his web site.   Be careful re attachment of rear shock, as some 35 models require an adapter plate that if not used, will not allow the approximate straight 90 degree  shock arm to link.  That adapter is not available and had two machined, can send spec if needed.  Proper shock arn alignment is important.   Also be sure to see the reply above about cut out switch, all I really need to to make sure a cut does not overcharge.  Let me know if you get this, my son is looking for a new computer for us.  Ken, Deltaville  Va

 

Edited May 13, 2017 by ken1007 (see edit history)

[Willie Wurke]

Ken. I'm that old mechanic that knows "juicetricity'. 88years old with 75 years in auto repair. If you don't need to look original get a Model A cutout (it's round)

that uses a diode from Snyders Antique Auto Parts . Part # A-10505-SS for $56. It's for a 6volt ,positive ground system

[Curti]

A heavy duty + ground diode is the only way to go. I do these for 34-36 Auburns. 

[Janousek]

So the idea behind this is full charge all the time but stopping the battery from going dead when turned off?    Whats wrong with operational cutouts?  

 

If I sit behind the wheel for 2+ hours straight in our 31' Buick I don't like the idea of juicing the batter that much.  It doesn't need it.  

[Owen_Dyneto]

If I sit behind the wheel for 2+ hours straight in our 31' Buick I don't like the idea of juicing the batter that much.  It doesn't need it.  

 

So, do as knowledgeable drivers did back in the day, either (a) drive with the headlights on to prevent overcharging, or (b) use the 3rd brush adjustment to turn down the generator output.

[Curti]

2 hours ago, Janousek said:

So the idea behind this is full charge all the time but stopping the battery from going dead when turned off?    Whats wrong with operational cutouts?  

 

If I sit behind the wheel for 2+ hours straight in our 31' Buick I don't like the idea of juicing the batter that much.  It doesn't need it.  

The problem with the 'operational cutout' is sooner or later the points will stick shut. Then what happens when the engine is shut off,  the battery tries unsuccessfully to motor the generator. Obviously it cannot because the fan belt is on the pulley.

What happens then is the generator heats up with the wiring going to it. This is a potential for a fire.  For this reason people buy those battery cutoff switches which create a lot of problems them selves.   I am a fan of a diode in the cutout and

NEW FIRE PROOF wiring such as Rhode Island Wiring Service sells. 

[Janousek]

Each of your replies make sense.   I put a diode in a 1913 Packard to stop the orignal starter/generator from doing exactly what your saying.  And they do get hot when it happens.  

 

I have 10k + miles between the Auburn and Buick with a solid state 6 volt cutouts without problem.  I'll keep using them but I also have battery disconnects in the car and accessible while driving.  

[Spinneyhill]

On 5/13/2017 at 2:37 AM, ken1007 said:

Thanks, appreciate your help, am having computer trouble so not sure this will get to you.

 

Thanks Ken. Finally saw it. We are having problems with half the house being off electrickery with an RCD tripping. There are some good photos there.

 

Ply33.com has some "how-to" for fitting a diode in the cut-out.

Edited May 13, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Frank DuVal]

The purpose of the OEM cutout is to disconnect the generator from the battery when the engine is not running. It has nothing to do with the amount of charge the battery receives. It does not keep the battery from overcharging. It is not a voltage regulator, simply a dead battery prevention device (and therefore a fire prevention device).

 

The diode does that function perfectly! Current can only flow from the generator to the battery, none from the battery to the generator. You just need to "point" (diodes have arrows on them for "positron " conventional current flow) the diode in the right direction for your system. Follow the above recommendation for positive ground systems.

[ken1007]

On 5/7/2017 at 8:50 AM, ken1007 said:

Recently had 1935 generator repaired but re-builder said cut out was bad and he did not have one, generator was otherwise OK.  It's an Autolite GCM4802A-4.  Where can I get a cut out  for this generator?  Ken, Deltaville, Va 

 

 

added:  It's a 1935 Studebaker Dictator 4 door model, but it has a 1936 Studebaker replacement 6 cy engine.  I'm told the generator is from 1937.   Ken 

Does anybody install the diode as part of their generator business?  I'd like to convert to diode but have in  inside the proper looking cut which may be sent to who ever, if they exist .  The guy who has taken care of my old car generators is going of of business at the end of the month.  Ken

[Curti]

I sent you a PM

[cahartley]

Get a solid state cutout/regulator and your problems are over.

 

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