1934 LaS basket case attempt..

[F&J]

Update for today, I may do one more tonight after getting back from grocery shopping  

 

Peter G, the webmaster here for AACA, has given us wonderful tools to work with.... picture uploading for one, and multiple forums to have focus...  and one other is the "ignore" button which I have never needed.....  Or the standard equipment "back button", in case you don't really like what may become my most bizarre build thread ever.  It will start with asking some of you who like the "full monty" no holds barred, behind the scenes thread style....  I ask you to watch the Bens Mill trailer above first, then lock yourself away from any distractions like family, pets, phones, etc, to spend just 20-ish minutes more, on the only large piece of the Ben Thresher documentary, that is available for free on the web.

 

I ask you as only since I posted the first opening of the program on Thursday, I finally understood what Ben said in one other segment that you can't view for free.... he said , in reference to the possible thought of himself as being special.. "I learned all this from the old timers who already where here when I was young..."I am just a Johnny Come Lately" .  I always misunderstood that as being humble and not wanting to seem like bragging about what he can do. I now know, he was really implying that "he is NOT the only one who can STILL do what he does",( in the old ways, with old tools),   AND my notation for you here: >>"in a very cluttered messy run down mill".

 

I will now not hide the fact that I work on things for others and myself, that are economically "upside down" or could be had as "new things" like a part, etc.  If you watch the link I will post below, you will see that some people STILL want high quality but old fashioned things "repaired" (not restored), or built, and will wait for Ben to do these.

 

I never let myself say online, that "I am Ben"... I now know "I am like Ben", still doing things the old ways with:, old unwanted tooling, and cast off materials just like was done by Bens old-timer's he spoke of.  One segment not on the free video, is Ben digging out front for surplus iron/steel donated by his friends "because I thought you could use it someday"......  Just like my friends do.  He is shown in his rusty early 70s truck, pulling a steel band out of the weeds with a chain, that once held a farm silo together.  And later gets some of the "irons" from a long rotted away wooden horse drawn logging sled that was common back then during winter logging....to save time making a new sled, that eventually is shown in use on snow in winter by the customer.  Who the heck wants to do logging/firewood that way?  HE does! dammit, and Ben provided the skills to build it.

 

I will then start by showing "one" of my old "machines" that I've never used, but am dying to try out on the very next missing small pieces for the LaSalle.  Maybe tonight, or soon....and... where I got it, and it's cost... I did move a lot of "Bens clutter" to take pics of it today

 

 

 

[F&J]

Late eve post:

 

The outcast "machine" I spoke of that I've never used...purchased at the same swapmeet that gave me My 32 Nash score, only some years later.  It is a kiln / furnace , very small and might have been for something like making jewelry casting?  That brand is still in the business, but they build nothing this small anymore. Their smallest one is several thousands of $.

 

The young seller said he did not know where his late Grandfather got it, or what it was for, but Gramps made fishing sinkers with it,  ...Geez you can melt lead in a wood fire   He had it set up for 20lb propane tank, unregulated !  I did find that regulator here, and as my entire shop and home once were propane before I moved here,  I have a 1000 gal tank still 1/3rd full.

 

What are those next parts I need to "try" to make?  The 3 totally different rumble seat steps.   I hastily made molds of clear silicone that I saw on YouTube, as a mickey mouse alternative to proper but expensive, 2 part rubber like product for making molds.  I would have bought that, but the donor car was going to auction the next morning.  YouTube showed squirting a whole tube of clear into a bucket of cold water with half a bottle of dish soap liquid.  Swishing it around by hand, but try not to let it stick to your hands, then it starts to set up very quickly, and not so sticky.  Get it into a wad, then get it smeared over your donor part.  It would never harden that thick without that trick.

 

why do I need a silicone mold?  For a "never tried it before" "lost wax casting".  You pour wax in a proper rubber mold, then coat the wax object in pottery ceramic, coat by coat, then put in the kiln to burn the wax out, but also turn the mold into a heat resistant vessel to pour metal in.  Then break open the vessel and see a perfect copy, but ever so slightly smaller due to shrinkage.  Small parts are barely different, and there are web charts to know how much shrinkage per inch of surface, on each type of metal.

 

Here is the kiln, $40.  Note it has a counterweighted, lever operated kiln door which is solid cast iron, the inside is very thick kiln brick, and a lined chimney to save heat.  Small kettle was my Dads for fishing weights

.

 

 

.NO, these are not clams...   They are the open molds of the 3 distinct steps.  I was concerned that over a few years that they may have collapsed, but seem ok.  The better 2 part mold stuff is bubble resistant, so the mold can be perfect.  Mine will need to have each wax part, carefully hand repaired.  It was better than not having anything to work with, so I will deal with it.

 

Way too late at night, and too tired, but I wanted to show my last two 6 hour days work on that 34 Ford big truck in the backround.  It belongs to a friend of my son named Tim, and I recently took the job of "saving" it, as it once belonged to his extended family's huge dairy business farm.  Extended family means he had to "buy it" to satisfy the different cliques of the family tree...  He first asked my son to see if I'd go to one of many dozens of barns on different properties to ID it's year, as it was missing the grille and had an International hood.. That was last autumn.

 

I was really shocked that he wanted it, as it was really was "done for", but I was never asked to give that opinion, nor was asked to work on it then.

 

He saved $$ over the winter, from overtime and also snowplowing, then asked my son if I would at least make the cab not fall off !

 

More in another day.  You will see that I am not ashamed to show different avenues for different needs, and he sure is not ashamed of the condition.  I simply don't worry about the internet "Golden Boys" , their opinions are just that, not fact, and are not real world "blanket" thoughts..... So, if you won't start a resto thread here because your work may seem trivial, or not up to the high standards of so called mandatory techniques of the keyboard wizards, or think you have an unpopular car....please reconsider starting a new thread here.

[F&J]

Another bizarre post intro before I show the two short days of work from yesterday and the day before on the "hopeless-unretrorable" 34 truck owned by Tim. 

 

Ben never said why or just how long he had run his own one man shop.  He did say he arrived at the mill in 1941, but it sounded as though he may have been an employee?   His location in Vermont outback, there were few "good" jobs.  In my State of CT, it was different, as all of the CT river valleys teamed with mills and factories that were the backbone of the industrial revolution in the mid 1800s.  Fabric, textile, firearms, machine tools, etc.  Many northern States residents moved here or commuted here for work, even living here during the week and returning home on weekends to their family.  I assume at some point, Ben "had" to do his own thing in life, to be in total control of his happiness, doing what he obviously loved doing.

 

I could not mentally handle my later schooling, and left for good on a beautiful spring day in my Senior year of HS.  I also went off the deep end in spirit and health, at the age of about 39, never ever having a "real" job since.  I felt trapped, because like most working people, we are trapped by the preset path of life.  The more we earn in dollars, the more things we purchase that we are coerced into thinking they are necessities by the corporate world.  I soon found out the meaning of "starving artist", and then learned what really are the necessities for life.  I did without, and still do.

 

On with the 34.  I took this job for several apparent reasons,... challenge to improve or maintain my skill set, helping a newbie in the dying prewar hobby, a friend of my son, and somewhere in there, the "dollar".   Working on a very rough car, you must stay on budget, and must use alternative procedures.  It cannot be "restored" but certainly can be saved, or perhaps better said, stabilized/conserved?

^^^ at this point, a sharp eye can see I had already done the subframing to accomplish what he wanted; make the rickety cab super solid to the frame and totally structurally strong.  He first told me that he had to just run it as a rusty ratrod, as the roof was so smashed from once being backed into a "too low" post/beam barn.  He tried to mash the roof back into shape but I knew from looking at the roof, that he did not have the knowledge to take the roof ass'y off , and gut it, then it will straighten out. (which I did, and was fairly simple, and easy for me)

 

He brought the truck to me on a borrowed trailer owned by another good friend of this group of my son's friends.  It was barely a 4 mile trip from the family lands, but he left the doors off to perhaps keep their weight from having the cab fall apart.

 

I don't "do" rats.  Just like maybe Ben did not make fake rotted birdhouses.  From day one, I knew I'd not take the rat approach and just scab rusted patches here and there, I'd do a "good job", the exact words Ben used when he described his fast but excellent paint job on the cows water tub in the video above.  I do have pride in my work, no matter the task, and he,he...I knew by the time he was to bring the doors over next weekend...the rat would no longer be his plan.

 

He saw my impressive structural work then, done with $15 scrap steel from the recycle place, and I said "football tackle the cab", to see just "how rock solid it is", and then he spotted the roof.... holy cow he said.  The next eve he calls to ask that if he can find door skins and cab corners, do I have time?  LOL. he is hooked now.  "we will polish this turd"....a phrase from the old time hot rod site.  Then when I said yes, he said he'd like to skip the "rustina' finish which is just leaving the old paint/surface rust as-is, and he'd now paint it a "flat" color to hide it's flaws,( he was a truck body painter a few years ago).

The metal skins came from Howells in Texas.  They once had a reputation on hamb as not filling orders quickly / backordering panels...now I know why... they are honestly a true bargain, and they save hopeless projects, etc...so of course they "can't keep up with demand"

 

The skins fit so incredibly awesome, no problems what so ever, and so very fast to do also, in the way they step flanged it up near the belt for a lap joint. They actually put "too much curve or bow-out" up at the flange for a reason... it makes the entire lap press in perfectly tight to the belt...you don't even need clamps !  It is like a snap together toy! I cannot say enough good about Howells...in our world of sketchy parts these days.

 

The internet golden boys try to humiliate people who use laps, but they are ignoring facts...Not only did many cars through the 60s-up have hidden/leaded over laps seams, the ONLY way to butt weld a lower skin or any panel, is by hammer welding with a back up dolly.  You cannot get inside with the dolly, in the door or some other panel areas!  So don't BS me!  A top, fully equipped upper end metal fab place certainly can butt this door skin.  They painstakingly peel back the folded over seam ALL the way around the ENTIRE door, then remove the entire shin including window opening, then do the hammer welded butt seam, then metal finish it before installing the entire skin.  Please tell me if any of us care to do that, or even have the skills?... Will we end up with a nasty mess of rebending the factory pinched seam all the way around?

 

The only issue I had with the last door skin; .. When spot welding the "sides" of the lower skin to the door shell on the work table, you must never do the last spot welds along the very bottom until you prove the door fits mint, all the way across. Why?  because when you do not tack that last short area, the door is still very flexible as to "twist".   You then install the door and see if the rear lower corner is sticking out, or too far in.  You can cheat a bit if you did weld the lower, and do have a slight twist. The two rubber door bumpers will correct a "slight" twist when you latch the door, but it may make the door need more pressure to latch it.  I messed up.  I missed at each lower corner, and some welds locked that bottom from twisting. 

 

You can try to rebend a very slight door twist by force, with door open.  It sure did not work below:  I used the chain to bumper, then yanked at lower corner.  All I got for springy movement was at the window glass slot, which is typical.

 

I quickly gave up, then cut one tiny spot at one corner with a die grinder small cut-off wheel, and other corner was freed by a tiny mini air saw.  Went super nice then, perfect door fit then.  The rubber door bumpers are not even installed, either... the way you should check door fit.  Oh, those white chalk circles on the door beltline area were a visible reminder to get dents removed when skin was off.  Dents are so easy to miss with the rustina finsh it now has.

 

The word got out fast that I was saving a rough 32-34 Ford cab.  I had two more requests for the same work, but my response is that if a 32-34 Ford truck has windshield post rot, I am out.  It simply really means it is hopeless.  here is a 32 I bought at the local junkyards for other parts.  You can see the multiple hidden layers, as well as rot heading in every direction when the posts go bad.  Just like Ben does, I dragged out this cowl from "my weeds", to provide Tim's truck with the lower right side cowl patch.

 

I look forward to the casting project for the LaS as well as the new gear ratio swap on the Nash... we shall see which is first... I no longer make any plans in my latest, and final chapter of my "new" life that started 15 years ago..

[F&J]

A last post for a while.  And odd as usual.  When I just said my need life started 15 years ago, it was not when I left the 8 to 5 life in my late 30s, it was when a seemingly devastating situation was presented to me on just around my 50th birthday.  As I sat outdoors on a mild late March eve listening to the peeper frogs that scream at that time of year, I wondered how I could possibly ever recover at age 50.  Then one of three things that led to my total recovery, and a truly better fulfilled life hit me:  A thought appeared in my head out of the blue... "I have no age........I am "just here".

 

the next two came from two customers that were also at least, casual friends like most all my customers have become.  One was a very aged "hippy chick", who was a hoarder, too.  Her VW bug was difficult to work on with so many odd things stuffed in it and the front trunk.  She knew my road ahead, and tried to find a tiny unused piece of paper in the car to write down two words that she said was an important message.  She scribbled a Latin phrase :  " Nunc coepi " that was in one of her self-help books she owned. She came back a day later when she bought a copy of that book for me, saying just read that one paragraph...that is all you need.  As a direct copy from the book she gave me:

 

"a phrase often heard in seminaries of old. It means, "Now I begin".  Novices were taught to say this each morning, signifying that "was" is past, what "will be" is hidden in the future, and it is only "now"- this day, this moment-that counts.  Not what I did yesterday or what I may do tomorrow. " Now"  I begin. Nunc coepi."

 

The other person within days, while I worked on his late fathers pride and joy VW bus in the lower driveway, stood up on the elevated rear deck of his Dads home...said "DO NOTHING".  He then said people like myself "try" to fix things.  Then said your old life is now past. You were dead then, and now you have been born.  Locals said he was a very dangerous fellow, long scraggly hair, very tall and thin... he looked like Jesus standing so far above me for a moment. Not only was he correct, he is not, nor ever hass been dangerous, he is very kind and caring.  Don't always listen to others opinions of you or other people.

Back to vintage vehicles now.    Everything in my life seems connected now.  My son got so lucky when a 6 month search for a 73-87 Chevy short fleetside 4wd, hopefully not rotted badly, hoping for OD trans and A/C etc... found one on some Facebook mudtruck redneck site.  The owner was a 18 yr old heir of a Grandfather that "bought it new" but said it sat since last tagged in 97 because Gramps could not get it to run, after a new mild cam.  It sat half of those years after be passed away.  This kid mentioned again in a few weeks that he still could not fix it, so offered it to trade for a Jeep.  My kid had the day off on Martin Luther day, so talked the kid into maybe selling it if we could look at it.  As soon as we saw it, it was weathered, flat, rotted, once new tires....but I recognized the faded dealer sticker on the tailgate.  I knew the name, it was NOT a new truck dealer, but a place that had a constant flow of loaded low mileage trucks coming here from Texas.  The title then proved his Grandfather bought it there in 87.  It is a 1983, with 75,000k.  the title from 87 showed 60k, so I know it is low mile.  But the doors were a bit rusty from rain over the years, (this side is the better, less rusted door), but underside of truck looked new..... so new that friend Bob Jr said his late model mint big loaded Toyota truck looked rusty underneath compared to the Chevy.  (Bob just traded it in because of that Chevy lack of rust under there) LoL.

 

the wheel rims sank in dirt so they were rotted too, but son ran an ad that night on that site for stock rimes, these are the set he got the next day for $50 !

 

My son wanted to find MINT doors here in rusty CT. Said he did not want to add more work for me for patching them.  Guess what?  Tim found a 82 Chevy truck at one of the farm locations owned/junked by a cousin.  Tim got it for parts...and although the cab, fenders, rockers were rotted like the 34 Ford, the doors are 100% rust free!  The doors are definitely newer than that donor truck, I know by a slight change in a seam inside, and one was red once.  So the truck got western doors before it was junked! My son now has these hard to find doors... The path of the leaf... ... in the brook.

Life seems to get more exciting for me each week

 

 

I has second thoughts as I wrote the first part of this post...but screw it...I can deal with it.  he,he

 

 

.

[36 D2 Coupe]

Frank - I once had a bachelor neighbour who ran a machine and welding shop in the manner of Ben's Mill - All line shafts, flat belts, clutches and idler pulleys to  very senior machinery powered by a single 5 hp electric motor - his only concession to the "modern" world. He too marched to his own drummer. A quiet and philosophical man, I have no age.....I am just here and "Nunc coepi ......now I begin"   were, I think a part of his unspoken credo. He could not be rushed or hurried but given time he could repair some of the thorniest problems. I do miss him.

Thank you for this bit of wisdom. You have given me something I can use.

[chistech]

I too have a fondness for the old square bodies as I grew up driving them though my first truck was a 72' Blazer. Wish I still had that one! I like the Blazers so I found a 83' military, no motor or transmission, with only 27K on the speedometer. It was originally from Alaska and had virtually no rust and no hard top because it had a special body mounted to the bed that was for listening equipment. Got to figure it was based in Alaska, right next to Russia and at the end of the Cold War. I purchased it from a guy who bought it for its engine and trans from a town auction. I bought a 91' HO 6.2, had Monster Transmissiom in FL make me up a 700R and then did a frame off keeping the military look but with modern paint, chrome, full options ( from a deluxe optioned GMC Jimmy) including cruise/AC, 97' Tahoe  power leather seats I added heat to, rugs, rear side panels, new wheels/tires, and the list goes on. When my wife realized it could be a convertible, she had me buy the soft top! It's one of my favorite vehicles to drive. A perfectly restored hard top sits hoisted up in the trusses of my garage never to come down again. LOL will post a few pics but have them saved in my laptop, not my I pad.

[F&J]

1 hour ago, chistech said:

old square bodies

I forgot to add to the Chevy story, my son did end up with a fully loaded Silverado, with more stuff than he hoped for like P/W and Locks, cruise, tilt, but NOT the slider back window ...funny that he said he did NOT want one for people breaking in to it.

 

....and, the day he got the doors from Tim for $150 for both....he said he received a retroactive "Union Contract Settlement" big check, so as it seems like free mony, he will finally put a huge order in at LMC Truck Parts for the carpet, headliner, dash pad, all door and window weather-strips, glass run channel fuzzies and a bunch more.  See how it all flows for some people? 

3 hours ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

Thank you for this bit of wisdom. You have given me something I can use.

Today, I was very tired...too tired to work on the Ford, maybe I'd take those huge miirors off my son's doors to get then inside,  He can't as he is camping at the Rhode Island Beach that not only my Dad took me so many times, but I took my son to even more.

 

I just have to make another post of todays amazing trip of the "leaf".  You won't believe it, but it is true.  I decided to go look for a big wax candle but dreaded going to Walmart or two types of Dollar Stores.. I darn well forgot that I was thinking of going to a huge flea market five minutes away on Sundays.. It was almost too late as I left at 12:30...I figured many vendors are packing up by now, won't find a big candle, but heck, I have not been there in 12-13 years, maybe I'd find useful tools if no candles were there... oh man, wait for the post but I need to take pics first..

.

[JV Puleo]

Frank... what are the step plates made of, aluminum? I only ask because I wonder if lost wax is the best way to go... I doubt the originals were made that way and your impressions taken from the now gone originals would be just what is needed to make a pattern for sand casting. You'd only need a small wooden flask and some casting sand to go that route.

I'm very interested in this area also and have quite a few parts that I will eventually have cast. Some I might do myself but so far I've just made patterns - but, I have a cooperative, family owned aluminum foundry next door.

 

jp

Edited May 28, 2017 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[F&J]

1 hour ago, JV Puleo said:

 

 

I'm very interested in this area also and have quite a few parts that I will eventually have cast. Some I might do myself but so far I've just made patterns - but, I have a cooperative, family owned aluminum foundry next door.

Hi Joe, they appeared to be die cast zinc..(under pressure, injected into the machined steel mold).AKA some form of what we car guys call potmetal.  Zinc is roughly the same melt temperature as Aluminum, but zinc is definitely stronger, think of carburetors from the semi modern cars.  I had an indoor wood boiler in my shop for 3 winters which also heated my entire home with 100 feet of underground pipes.  That boiler was force fed air when water temp dropped, and I could melt thick aluminum or zinc carbs in very little time.  I also saw aluminum melted in just an open outdoor wood fire.  It is easy to work with.

 

I hate to sand cast them due to the somewhat fine details of the tiny raised "pyramids" , or non-slip pattern you step on.  One of the estate cars was missing the one on the bumper, but I found a chrome plated brass new one in the cellar to use on that car. Can't recall if it was sandcast look under the base, but I recall the non-slip pattern had defects which showed up more in new chrome.

 

There is a guy from England with tons of excellent "green sand" casting methods, core box making, making your own green sand, how to make a sand mold, how to cut vents and risers, as well as filler locations.  I will try to find him and post it here.  The best guy I know of for us newbies. He casts small engines !

 

EDIT>>> Joe, here he is, dozens of videos, and I totally forgot...he also MACHINES some of his castings.. Boy, you will be busy trying to watch all of his videos.. :

 

Edited May 28, 2017 by F&J
adding vid (see edit history)

[F&J]

Before I start my post on the epic 2 hours at the flea market, For Joe's question on my steps:  Lost wax-Lost foam is called investment casting.  You end up with incredible details like even a moderate scratch on the donor part, or like tiny hallmarks on a silver spoon.  No hand dressing of the final part, except trimming the vent hole, and the riser/fill hole.  In the pics below you will se a new can of minimal expanding foam.  I spotted that out front of a vendors tent and really already thought of wanting to at least test one of my silicone molds, to see how rough they might be, due to voids like air bubbles.  I set up the nozzle, read the can, but chickened out.  It said fill a long open gap at side of a house window, only 1/3 width.  I will bet it will balloon my flimsy silicone mold, so I never tried it today.

 

The original steps which were on two cars, all showed zero hints of old plating.  I do know companies did chrome aluminum back then, as my removable 1932 Nash trunk has peeling, bright thick chrome on it's trim bands. So, I'd be happy with a buffed zinc/aluminum step set. 

 

I got to the flea market at 12:45 ish, many vendors gone or packing, some hardcore ones not packing. Despite being so tired I zipped quickly through the area that I recalled has household stuff first, looking only for a large candle.  Finally asked one vendor who had huge piles set up if he had any, he said there was one over there, maybe it sold.  It was gone. 

 

Headed to the runway area that leads to Antiques and Plants, then saw a big setup with too much to scan.  I have no idea why I did not ask for a big candle... I said " I am looking for a large piece of wax to make a mold to make a part for an antique car".  He said, geez, I have 1000 pounds of a special wax at home!!  I figured his home was 40 miles away...nope less than 15 minutes from mine!  It gets more freaky, or should I say by now...fate, leaf, or what?  He asked what I have for cars,  I mentioned only the 30,two 32's, and a 34.  He seemed a tick disappointed?  Then said "I have a 62 Studebaker sitting that I parked 12 years ago, I wish I could get it going again"  LOL...I said "dam... I run a shop at home and ONLY work on old cars like that".  He asked how much $ per hour, and I said I just stopped going by the hour as I rush too hard to keep a bill down, so I go by a guess.  He seemed like money was super tight, perhaps on SSI only, plus doing fleas.  I said don't worry, it sounds easy, but it may need brake work from setting.  We exchanged contact numbers, and I went on my way.

 

Then I pretty much stopped looking for just candles and made some inexpensive finds of things I really need for working...really needed!  The stuff was so cheap compared to Auto swaps, that I reverse dickered on all of the stuff below,  I said your prices are outrageous, I need to pay you more...seriously !

 

So on the way back up the runway to see if Greg, the guy with the Stude was still there and he was starting to pack up.  I asked what is a good time or day to call.  He said does not matter, so I know he has no job.  I said maybe this coming week.  Then he said "oh, the car is not at my home"...I looked at his wife and I said "Tennessee right?"  She cracked up and he the said he bought a small lake cabin back when he was young and they were cheap. Then said Woodstock CT.  I said "how many lakes in town? as I have a customer friend who now lives full time at his lake home...he drives old cars like the 32 Ford hotrod coupe that I put the early caddy engine in it."  He stopped me to firmly say "Paul" as if that had to be the guy.  He lives NEXT  dang DOOR.  He said Paul just had several nasty temporary health issues, but had said to Greg that "we can get the Stude going really easy".  Greg asked me if Paul would be a good reference...DUH, Paul thinks I am some sort genius on cars.

 

So, I bought some taps and stuff below from Greg, as he had them hidden under boxes the first time.  He said $12 for what I dragged out, I gave 20 as an included tip, and he said" NO, I have change"  (pride showing), I said this stuff is not cheap new, so it is well worth the 20...then he says, I will give you some wax for free at my home.  I said I'd rather buy more, and if it works good, others in my travels will need some.  I amazed myself when remembered to ask if it was hard wax or soft...he said very hard, so that is perfect, as I told him soft wax can soften before you do the whole project.

 

So, I will get to see Paul's place, visit with him, then we will get the car to at least start, then appraise the brake cylinders, and I may work for WAX  lol...  I think I have new friends as the wife liked my "leaf" lingo after she said "what a coincidence". he, he...no such thing, dear..

All from Greg ^^^ These are NOS American tapping "sets", each has a starting tap, then a normal tap, then a bottoming tap for shallow holes like that tapping job on the Nash/Hupp steering wheel pull.  I really wished I had them on that project.  I asked what was in the tray under the tools, he said "stuff you won't want"  I spotted the tarp, perfect for an engine left outside overnight.  $12 seemed terribly cheap from a guy who might be not well off at all, so the $20 was very appreciated it seemed.

 

a decent score of very needed things^^^^^ two sizes of tailpipe expanders 1-1/4 to 2.5" between both.  Never owned one, but always wished I did on, some very-random tasks. That tie-down ring thing up top, was just what I needed for pulling the 34 into the shop, as well as my sons Chevy when it was still not a runner.  It is a non-home use, high rated industrial permanent mount with the concrete anchor bolt.  It had a $55 orig price! Air chuck I needed as ours leak when trying to fill a tire, 2 arbor type wood rasp wheels maybe for the LaS wood project, random fender washers I saw.

 

'

Best score for value despite super cheap, cheap price of asking $22, giving $30 and feeling guilty. Fox Valley Volt/Tach, Dwell, and Amps.. that was the top brand back in 60s to early 70s in shops and dealerships. ..With booklet. Hack saw blades I just ran out of, several wood and metal files, Vixen lead file insert, super long wood chisel, great tool for gasket residue scraping, and certain metal working tasks like forming a valley near a belt line. Much needed 3/8 ratchet, mine locked up last week, Accel brand fuel pressure gauge, and a highest quality industrial ARO die grinder with collet chuck.  Works like new, lots of power, and these are definitely "copped" from one of the Aircraft companies near the CT river...Pratt & Whitney, Hamilton Standard, Kaman Aircraft, etc.  I needed a second one as I switch from cutoff wheels to burring bit or wire wheels too often.  They will never wear out if oiled at times.  The odd gauge thing is for setting caster/camber. But I never saw one that clamps to the wheel bearing nut. I have a modern version that is magnetic, but won't work of front wheel drive, but the ancient one should.

 

I still can't believe I got a job on a fun car start-up, then horse trading labor for freakin' wax,   and as I know he is very low income...everyone walks away happy  

Edited May 29, 2017 by F&J (see edit history)

[F&J]

17 hours ago, 36 D2 Coupe said:

Thank you for this bit of wisdom. You have given me something I can use.

 

Speaking of those two sentences....I need someone with a YouTube account to do a favor to help a guy in Georgia.... I have tried to join there, but it says I already have an account, so I filled out the page for lost account name/password and it says I don't have an account..

 

I need to help a guy who has the same issue as my Son's GM 1983 squarebody pickup, a terribly wide bed-to-cab "gap" on one side only.  He is at the end of a long running resto project for a Nephew, and thinks it has a bent frame...  Well it does, and it's a simple "no-rebend" fix.

 

His truck and my Son's both had shown a hard diagonal hit to one side of the step bumper on one side.  What was wrong with our truck, is that the diagonal impact did cause the frame to get slammed/flexed over to the opposite side, it "shucked" the spring-to-axle contact point at the U-bolts.  The U-bolts being so tight, are now preventing the frame to flex back to straight.  So I finally figured that out, loosened the U-bolts, and just a diagonal tug with a come-a-long made the frame jump back to straight!   So, yes it was bent over, but not really "bent".  It was just "stuck over" to one side.

 

Can someone send him a link to this post? or post it on this video which shows his problem at 1:50 seconds into this 6 minute video. Also he is mislead by the front bumper gap, which is likely just brackets not set up correctly.   I found his video while looking for clues to fix ours!  Thanks.

 

 

[alsancle]

Frank, you can email or post a link for him by just copying this:

 

http://forums.aaca.org/topic/292486-1934-las-basket-case-attempt/?page=4#comment-1606703

 

You can copy it by

 

1.  place the cursor (the blinking vertical bar that shows where to type) at the beginning.

2.  Hold the left mouse button down and drag cursor to the very end so everything is highlighted.

3.  hold down the "ctrl" key (lower left part of keyboard), the press the "c" key.  This will copy all the highlighted text into a copy buffer.

4.  Then in your email message, place the cursor where you want the text to go and hold down "ctrl" key again and press "v" key to paste it in.

 

Or PM me his email and I'll send it for you.

[F&J]

20 minutes ago, alsancle said:

Or PM me his email and I'll send it for you.

I looked around on his profile and possible links on videos, and I did not find his email.  But I will look again right now., in case I missed something in plain view.

[F&J]

40 minutes ago, alsancle said:

 

Or PM me his email and I'll send it for you.

 

All set now...

 

 

Thanks...I went back and looked harder, then found a hidden email link for "commercial use"?  Anyways it was googleplus so I did not think I could get it to unhide, as I am not signed up there either...but dag nabbit, I did get his email and I just sent a detailed report on what we did. 

 

Thanks for the wake up call, as I do miss the obvious quite often...

 

 

so, anyone reading my asking for help, I am all set now, Thanks!

[F&J]

Trying to get a start on the wood, as it is the only hard part of this project.  I will do like Cristech did; save what I can.  I have to really, as if I take  it all out or try to take the skin "off" like he did, I will have lost all the present locations of things.

 

The wood I mentioned earlier, is rough cut, and seeing this handwriting style and what it says, means a very elder guy, and making wood for somebody else, but also has bad or rotted wood:

 

 

Start with sills, as it needs to. The sills were made of two 3/4''-ish thick boards glued together up front only, then a third one blends in, and I now see that it is to beef up the two carriage bolts, horizontally to hold the kick ups. Below pic whiote arrow shows that short 3rd board, it is not missing the front, that is the original termination point of it.

^^^^ above I must make one new splice with a new short 3/4 plank/board, at the yellow spot.  Then I will make a complete new lower one as the back tip under the kick up bolts area is bad.  Then the top plank will be remade and joined in the original place, which you can see up top between the yellow and the white colors

 

 

 

Here is the new kickup laying on the old..... and a short end part of the "three plank sill".  Blue shows the carriage bolts and the circles are showing predrilled holes.  Follow them through that rotted sill, to see the pocket underneath for the carriage head of the bolt

 

 

 

I tried fitting the new kick up in after removing what was left of the old.  It will not fit.  One is that the bottom is rough cut, and does not follow the slightly upwards curve of that lower nailing flange.  So I had an idea to tape cardboard to the wheel well panel, then scribe a line, cut on that line to make a template.

^^^^ the only thing I have to go by at this point, as to where the kickup sits, from forward to back, is that curve.  That is because the tail end of the new kickups was marked "cut off here" as in extra wood was left just in case, or he had no decent pattern?.  So the ends cannot be used to know anything.

 

But I must try to do the wood IN the body.  There is no sane way I can think of to take the skin off then have any idea how to build a wood skeleton.  Too much is gone or out, or weak.

 

Building inside the skin is a big problem as to how certain bolts a screws were done from areas or angles that will now be impossible....and, I don't have a clue how the three major parts at the tail end, come together or how the joint styles were.  It is all missing completely .  See the mock up below,  Bear in mind all parts were rough cut extra long...

 

one more issue I face.  Those sills "three-planks" are not all 3/4" boards I could buy.  I measured each with a Vernier caliper.  The middle one is slightly over 3/4, the bottom and top planks are under 3/4, but not alike either.  I do not have a wide planer, just a home type joiner/planer, and my friend Joe's big one with a generator to run it at his rented storage place, was stolen

 

I can't just use in-stock easy to buy 3/4", as I am doing biutt splices....that splicing needs each spliced plank to be exact thickness to the one it butts against, or..the top or bottom plank can't sit flat onto to a stepped joint.  Also the "three board stack" must end up exact total thickness, as other critical parts fit to the top of it, and body mounts fit to the bottoms.

 

I hope I can soon find a start here, at least get something installed, to get more inspiration. I first need to figure out how the 3 pieces at the very tail should be, as I can't cut any of them to length until I do figure out the joints..

[Roger Zimmermann]

I would not be at your place: without a similar vehicle to compare, you just guess what it should be...I hope you will succeed.

[F&J]

2 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

I would not be at your place: without a similar vehicle to compare, you just guess what it should be...I hope you will succeed.

 

Update at daybreak...  Roger, you hit the nail on the head about "similar car"... At 8:30 last eve, It hit me to go outside with a flashlight to look at the tail pieces of the Yellow sedan body. 

 

That thought came to me after thinking of what hand written notes were on some ends of the new wood. References to "drill two holes here", and then seeing two other "pocketed"  carriage head holes on each of the long curved read deck support beams.  When I made my last post, those two holes just did not make sense, so I wondered then if there was a large iron brace?  But it took 3 hours of being away from the shop to get the idea to look at the sedan.  Sure enough, TWO iron brackets per side.  I have those removed from the sedan to at least be able to mock it up on the ground, then figure out how to make similar ones, but shaped to fit the Convertible body angles!

 

I will put up pics after today's apparently busy schedule.  My 83 yr old good friend John is stopping by at late morning.  He has moved from his previous 20 year residence not to far from me, where he had a nice shop and restored so many nice cars.  He moved closer to the Estate, as that was nearer his birth town, and I sense he was talked into "retiring" from his hobby, not exactly that reason, but having a new home built in a senior development that has all yard chores and snow work included, and sadly, not allowed to have a shop

 

John gave me all of his life's  car work supplies  ....even the roll nice leather that will be the LaS front seat!  John also helped so many times at the estate, trying to ID parts for the widow, and helping me look for parts of whatever car I was putting together.

 

 

ok, so Home Depot here nearby, used to have a rack of bandsaw blades, but several years ago, the rack was gone. One clerk said "no longer carry those".  Found out online last eve that "my store" does still have them in stock, but web shows not my length.  I will get there today I hope to look, then see if they have 1x8 oak, and I already made notes of what total pieces/lengths I will need for sills first.

 

I'd also like to do a post on seeing random signs that are now letting me know where the wood "kit" came from, when...and more notes in the yellow body to prove what I had guessed, as to where the disassembled conv and most of the parts cars came from, and who.

 

That, and looking at things in all the barns, the house, the basement, his office, under his bed... I know why he bought the conv shell...

 

But I will tell all later with more keyboard time... Makes no matter; ...of all those things,...but it is a peek into one's life and perhaps knowing he had a bucket lister?..... as far as his "last & final" favorite "marque"  the  34 LaS..

[F&J]

2 hours ago, F&J said:

Update at daybreak...

Ok, pics from 7:30 Am....trust me, I am not embarrassed to admit I am NEVER out at the shop this early...but , number one, I am stoked right now, and two, John will be here later morning and I look forward to a now-rare visit together since he moved so far away.  I can't wait to show him the LaS I finally ended up with.  

 

John has a rarely seen "hard-ass" attitude when needed? ..as he was a lifelong plant manager at Hamilton Aircraft among other things that need that "gift"?  Anyways, he was really ticked off when my first LaS deal went sour overnight two years ago.  He said very angrily, "she should "give" you the f-ing thing for all the work/help you've done for her".   Oh well, I was a "leaf" then, as now, so I got over that then.

 

Late yesterday afternoon I was so beat, as I've yet to rest up after at least 2-3 months of not only the LaS deal/haul, but also too much heavy duty customer stuff. I was pretty much not getting any good percentage of successfull thoughts when I just could not figure out the joinery of the tail of the body, ......and............ trying to make it work "in the body", not removing the skin like Chritech's Olds.  Believe me that I wore out my tired remaining brain cells and eyes while following each wood post he has made so far...

 

But it was clear that although similar body styles, and placement of similar wood components, the Fisher and Fleetwood have different joinery completely, so I was losing confidence. Not only that, I have two deck lid openings, and more components for those. (the rumble lid and truck lid)

 

By late last night after retrieving the sedan brackets and seeing locations of each, my confidence is near 100% on this tail end part of the wood, and that gives me more confidence that I can tackle each new step from there, going upwards inside the body.  That is why I look forward to the Home Depot trip today, and I really don't like shopping at all. 

 

Pics below:  Bear in mind these are sedan metal shapes and especially the bolt holes on the upper angle thing, but we will see which holes in the wood curved piece hook to what later. Just trying to show the system.

 

^^^^ that lower bracket on dirt bolts to underside of the kick-up beam/sill, then up through that upper angle steel piece, like a sandwich.    Then the top angle one that sits on top of kick-up beam/sill, it then bolts to (which?) of the predrilled holes in the curved beam.  I will figure it out.. But this is the way the wood pieces actually sit together.

 

 

 

 

^^^^Here is the top angle bracket.  I just can't take time right now to figure out the 4 holes, but I will.. I am not sure what the unused forward oval hole was for? maybe a different body style, or IDK yet. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

^^^^^^ Here is the UNDERSIDE of the big wood tail sill, and how the lower plate fits.  It won't fit the conv rear tin floor, as it is shaped different, so when I get to that, I will make a new design shape to do that job it does on a sedan.

 

ok, I need to go back off the blade adjustment on my band saw to see if a 62" blade can fit on a 64.5 machine.  Their website lets you select your own "local Depot store" to check inventory "on hand" there. (which sometimes I know from the past, might not be correct)... I hope. )  They show only 62 wood blade as the closest size, but other stores or Home Depot INC, shows a wood 64.5 as available.

[alsancle]

Frank,   your non-car musings remind me of Maslow's needs hierarchy.   It explains the "money doesn't buy you happiness" saying perfectly.

 

[F&J]

1 hour ago, alsancle said:

.   It explains the "money doesn't buy you happiness" saying perfectly.

He He AJ or AL or whatever you prefer....

 

Titles of the mid morning update. IS..(pick one that any viewer here can identify with) 

 

- Stop fooling around, get back to work...I don't pay you to fart around..

 

- Get of the dam couch and turn that GD  Television off... cripes, it's a nice day...

 

-holy cow, I can't believe it...It don't git no betterer than this... !...

 

 

 

 

See dramatic once in a lifetime pic below...wait for it....

 

 

 

 

.

 

 

 

 

 

 

.

 

 

.

 

 

I never said I took chance of ruining my only silicone molds before getting wax from Greg...I tried to suppress those fuzzy feelings....but finally caved... I used the foam from the flea market.  It looked ok at first, but as it was setting up it was ballooning the molds... so I weighted them down best I could.  After many hours of occasional touchy-feelie when I went past them, the middle insides just would not set up firm to touch, on the belly of molds....oh well,  ...but I went to measure the saw just NOW, and went to get a screwdriver, but spotted them.  THEY ARE HARD!   Peeled it open gently to see if it ruined the rubber, nope, did a knife deal to cut away seam flash, then sand lightly with 150...then get a new can of silver spray from John's old stash... ta ta...

 

That is the top.  It must be angled as the bumper sweeps inwards there.  So, the bottom looks strange, but for that reason..

 

 

 

Now check out the "detail retention" of just crude foam...see the threads?  I used a piece of threaded rod installed to act as a hole in mold to pour the wax

 

 

 

Hey, It just keeps getting more funner...    It is distorted a tiny bit, from foam swelling and instability too., but I will fix the issue.  Rubber molds are supposed to be poured inside a "core box" to prevent warping or whatever.  I will figure out a box and added filler to stabilize it for final wax.

 

This "IS" the  "lost Foam" approach of casting, vs "Lost Wax".  Foam burns away in the kiln too, and the kiln step, is to bake the ceramic to make it heat proof.  Bye, waiting for John, he will like this  

[F&J]

Todays update for now:  I got a very late start to the Home Depot yesterday, John stayed a long time and partly longer as Bob Jr showed up with his mint 51 Chevy pickup...John has restored two of those, and then talked on all the others he has done for many decades.

 

Ok, so in a rush to get to Depot late afternoon, I could not find my note on how many lineal feet of 1x8 oak, so I winged it.  This is the first time I ever went for "nice store wood" vs local cut, or off my land here or other homes I had.  I no longer have contacts for "wide board planning".  And... I need perfectly flat boards to glue/stack together.  So, cost factor alone, is no longer a valid point in my wood budget.

 

Depot:...I did not know it was not 8 footers, 10 footers, 12s etc, it is odd lengths as it goes by the foot.  No tools there to measure so I guessed I had one 8 and one 10.  I knew my notes were a bit over 8 for the first sill on right side, but another thing I "used to do", is plan out ALL the wood for a project, making sure there are no "one foot pieces tossed out as scrap".  Time is more important with the total workload here, and I'd never be able to know exactly how much I need for other parts yet.

 

The Web inventory was correct on the bandsaw blades, they were out of 64.5 wood blades but did have a 62 wood blade,  But also not on web was a 3 pack assortment of wood 62's in various widths for $20 by Bosch so I took that.  Then recalled, duh, I need glue and uh, then screws to build the layers.

 

Got home late as I finally HAD to grocery shop on that trip.  I ate, then went to test the blade.  WTH?...I used a thin flexible pocket tape to start at the halfway point on lower pulley to the same up top.  It keeps showing right at 31...but the blade seems 5 inches too short??  Measured the 3 blades, all are 62??? What?  Called it a night, but decided I would modify the saw in the AM, as it beats driving all over the bigger cities looking, and wanted a blade NOW.

 

^^^^ see the pink chalk mark, all I need is one simple notch ( I thought)

^^^ I did the notch with that "new " diegrinder from the flea market, works awesome, lots of power.  There is the rectangular block that slides to adjust blade tension,  ,,,but the notch needed more? 

 

^^^ now the notch is letting the upper pulley hit a casting web, so I made witness notches to then grind it to be flat.  Took little time so far....but it StiIl was not enough??? I know in the 1960s Candid camera did a skit with a guy trying to fit something, and when he got the saw, they switched the thing to a bigger or smaller object .  I swear it seemed the same stunt here. LOL..

 

Finally got it, it is tight like an proper tension would be, so I left it.  Then found out the homemade plexi safety cover someone built, needed a trim at the hub center hole.    Did that easy, then found the bigger table needed for horizontal wood cutting...

 

^^ there is the small one on the big one.  Ok, Dayton USA saw came from recycle place for $20, and was missing one adjustable blade guide with it's twin mini bearings, which I made, and used 2 hardware store bearings at $10 pair.  The orig blade lasted for a year! 

 

 Then a year later got a parts machine missing the stand, but also had the above^^^  "big" table, then I also used it's original blade guide on mine, even though the parts machine was a China clone of the USA machine.

 

So, it took longer than planned, but still better/faster, than a hunt trip for a 64.5 blade, and now I can use either size if I get in a jamb on local replacement size non-availability.

 

Old State of the art Miller "Gold Star" 330A/BP Tig and Stick in backround.  850 pounds of FUN!  She's a big girl ...Was the best there was about 50+60 years ago...  $75 at farm auction where both milling machines came from.  Nobody is working anymore or maybe only buy new machines on credit?...  Or sitting watching TV?  .... just saying that, "Tools are cheap" in my area.

.

 

 

[F&J]

I did that thread on the machine because I was having issues getting pics onto my laptop from the LaS wood project today.. I was recharging batteries for the camera even though I knew it was not the problem.. It still won't upload pics, so I am stuck again....by this hi tech world of crap cheaply made products, that USA and the World demanded by "price shopping"...that is why I only care for old stuff..

 

but I need to consider if I have had quite enough of this "throw it away'', buy it new AGAIN, world.  2 laptops in 1.5 years, software issues, you name it.  I don't have a cell and don't need/want one, I don't care to run out to buy another camera tomorrow as I prefer to stay and do what I love doing.  So, don't dare use the term "IT" for "Internet technology" near me, I've had enough of it all.  See you later ...maybe

 

Car is progressing very well today, and looking like something.................well, "looking" is for just me right now, not you  ..

[chistech]

Just thought I'd post a couple of my frame off Blazer (square body Chevy) pictures I said I would. You can see I stayed with the military components like the tow rings and great HD brush/grille guard. But the creature comforts like PW/PDL, AC, heated mirrors, heated, pwr seats, and soft top. Though it's a diesel it's very quiet with full sound proofing over the POR15 floor and under body paint. This is the vehicle that really got my restoration "sickness" going! I owned it 5-6 years and it sat in my garage while I built many scale radio control warbird airplanes. My wife came to me and said "not another plane until you get that damn Blazer done!" Well, I stayed on it from that day until completion. Then came the 31' Chevy special sedan. Then came numerous customer's old GM's. Then I picked up the Olds. Yup, I've got the "sickness" bad! LOL

Edited June 1, 2017 by chistech (see edit history)

[F&J]

31 minutes ago, chistech said:

Just thought I'd post a couple of my frame off Blazer (square body Chevy) pictures I said I would

Very nice indeed...I ran 3 different squares from 74 to around 95 at the ocean camping spots and daily use..Hershey too.    I really identify with the pic on the ocean beach, although I sure wouldn't recognize the Mass beach with big pebbles.  I never ran the Mass beaches like friends did near P-town or Chatham on the Cape,... I was always at East Beach in western RI.  Ran slide-in campers on the "soft side" of Charlestown breachway for years, and then switched to the hard side in Charlestown itself, when my son was born, as it gave him more kids to play with there.  Ran my modified 1966 Camper Special 4wd from 1995-ish on, at the hard side

 

Never got buried out there with the camper on, but had at least one close one . . one guys Dodge lost a rear joint and made it back out on just the front drive..  ..he waited for rain, then it is like a driveway...with 2 self steering track ruts for the tires

[chistech]

I'm just as close to East Beach as I am to the cape basically in Dartmouth. Horseneck is literally just down the road in Westport for me. The picture is taken at Westport town beach which has been filled with those stones to keep the water from eroding the road. Just to the right, out of the picture, is Gooseberry Island which had two sub lookout towers on it back during WWII.

[F&J]

6 hours ago, chistech said:

I'm just as close to East Beach as I am to the cape

Hi, sorry I've been misspelling your screen name.. I enjoyed your comments and pics of the modified Blazer, your story of how your "leaf" brought you from somewhere, to the purchase of your Olds...awesome! ... that you would "dare to share" here, about what possibly others would not understand their importance of being on a 34 LaS thread.   

 

...the leaf is so important to me:  My camera will not upload to my new laptop..still..  And I have no time today to figure out which unit is bad, as my friend/customer Mary is bringing her old beat up 73 VW Super here for a small task this morning.  She's been waiting for a very rare day of no rain...and knows my inside bays are all taken right now.  Mary called again yesterday morning to ask if "Thursday-Friday" will work for me, and I said friend Joe called earlier this week, saying he needs my help "thurs or Fri" to move the last 4 heavy things from the estate barn to finalize his work there,  I said whomever makes a definite bid on Thursday gets Thursday from me. 

 

Joe then stopped by late yesterday with a load of stuff to have me look at, and then said he can't do Thursday, but needs me on Friday...  he, he, A leaf could not have known how all this Thur/Fri stuff would pan out..so perfectly..   but it DID work out.

 

Mary said that from our last visit here BS'ing for 1.5 hours with Joe too, that "I am concerned about you, you seemed way too upbeat".  (I threw her right off my place 6 months ago as she did exactly something I said not to do, when supposed to have the VW towed here, but she MUST NOT come with the tow guy and get stranded here at darktime, with expecting me to drive her home.  Well she was sitting in the dam car at 8pm when I got home, she's freezing on a winter night in the DOA car for two hours.  I let her have it but good, I was so angry that I asked my son to drive her home, which he did,  I am BEAT come darktime, and I TOLD her that earlier that day.!!

 

So, please look what my 83 year old friend John emailed me last night,  he is old school as in sending a thank you card for whatever event he has had,: Copy paste as he wrote it ...nothing changed or altered... (yep, he misspelled a word LOL)

 

"Frank, I know you are a very busy guy but just want to tell you how much I enjoyed our visit Tues.

You sure are excited about EVEYTHING--that is new and very exciting---keep it going my friend.

See you soon.  John  "

 

 

food for thought you guys and gals... the leaf...

 

 

.

[F&J]

Late night update with pics from my Son's cell. 

I asked him to get pics of the 3 steps mockup on a surprise find of a real conv/coupe rear fender I got from my storage barn pile that was not sorted yet.  This was great as it gives the hole patterns for the steps, even though I have fenders that were blasted/primed for my car, but not with holes. Here are all three in original fashion, along with upper bumper bar, and bullet/and shock tube mount:

 

I am glad I did the foam tests first now, as the step that has the longest "spike" of the stands that hold the top? one up, actually broke a foam point "tip" off as the mold split line I once made, was just not enough to get it out in one piece:

 

Ok then a pic of where I was two eves ago:  Setting up proper door gaps to make sure the wood pattern length of the new patched sills would be correct.  You MUST install the door, then gaps MUST be 100% mint by shimming cowl, rear body etc.  Here is a thin metal strip bolted to all 3 panels as I cannot hold even this empty junk 34 conv door-skin in place while I shim.

I have so many more pics on getting all the panels correct, but can't get them onto this laptop.  I can't try to fix or diagnose my issue very soon, as I will be busy all day tomorrow helping fried Joe moving out/loading b the last 4 heavy things, and then his job there is 100% done.

 

Then while outside today under Mary's VW, I missed a call from my son, saying to get the hotrod out and cleaned as there was a rain date move to tonight for a monthly cruise in hicktown Ashford.  It is run by a local Trans shop owner with a 33 Ply coupe rod.  I never met him (Terry) despite him being at that shop for many decades. So, I got too tied up with the VW to ready the car at all,  My son got it out and used air hose to clean it.. lol..then he drove me there.  Car was flawless despite not checking a thing before we left. 

 

Terry knew I was coming from his son who works with my son, so he has seen cell pics of my car.  He ran out to get us a spot saved near the state road as "click bait" to passersby.  There is not enough bandwidth to tell of all long lost people that hit me up, even the owner of the Garage that was the once-Chevy dealer that sold Bob Jrs 51 Chevy pickup bwhen NEW, former coworkers of mine, new old school friends etc. 

 

He, he...a guy I used to work with at State DOT, was on his cell to a Joe...my son joe is a friend of him from the local fishing club, but I asked Joe-Who?  He said it was my friend Joes, so I said tell hin Frank iks here with the 32..he did comne and was liking the show too.

 

I won 2nd place trophy which my son forgot to take a pic of.  It is SO cool, a piston & rod on an angle pointing up, antiqued bronzed finish..  I usually do not accept trophies but this was a set up to get more old time rods like mine to show up each month, and did not want to offend Terry's dedicated work on the show, AND it IS a very COOL one!

 

One old time traditional rod was a 32 Ford roadster highboy, done RIGHT...which is rare.  I scanned two guys b/s-ing near it, wondering which one owned it...I figured it was a stocky 50s-ish guy with hair swept back like 1961, and I knew how to find out quick.  I said out loud, "you just don't see many 32 undropped heavys these days" ( hard core-trad speak for a big beam, stock 32 only, axle that was not "dropped")

 

Instant eye lock on my eyes, trying to get over the shock of a rare hard core traditional, "brother", just from that few words...instantly glued us together for an hour at both our 32s.  So awesome...new friend..ding! I later told him my grill was just a quicky, he said don't ever change a build...it will lose soul....so I won't I assume..

 

One of Terry's crew wanted us to fill out the ID card.  I was going to put my name...but I went with something that really means something to ME.  F&J is part of a front business name I started a two scant weeks from my court date 15 years ago.  I had nothing to show 2 years prior income to allow any custody at all, of my young son.  I traveled far to south CT to get the Tax Cert, and a name, and occupation...  A 78 yr old Judge looked at my income report showing a two week old business with a dollar figure, and then the word "Estimated".  He was wise enough to know that if I had just done a quit claim transfer of EVERYTHING material, and was there without a lawyer to plead a dummy occupation...he dam well knew why. Done! Custody granted. 

 

[F&J]

Sorry, no new pics today, as I still have not sorted out my issue yet, I think it might be just as bad memory card in the camera, but as my old desktop PC fried the main power supply two weeks ago, when I noticed the normal green indicator light, has gone from on steady, to rapid blinking.  With my laptop, I have to use a USB cable from the camera, the old PC has a card slot, so I hoped to test the card that way.  But just minutes before posting I recalled my HP printed has a slot, so maybe that will test the card?  IDK..

 

Good day as I finally started the tiny test of wood fitting.  Instant problem as the new 6 tooth per inch wood blade barely was cutting the kiln dried oak, kick up beam tail end that is maybe 2x2.  WTH?  Then used my sons slower Milwaukee sawzall with new coarse blade, same thing... too slow. My faster Porter Cable Tiger saw I had just setup with a metal blade as Tim the guy with the 34 truck, was going to pick me up for a trip to Kenny to cut out a rear window panel.

 

Finished the slow cut, then as this needs to be trimmed a bit then test fit many times, I tried the smaller of the 2 rotary wood drums from the flea market.  Well, just as 83 yr old John said earlier this week "I wish I never got rid of my wood tools, I had rotary drum grinder that works slick"...then I showed him the two I just bought.

 

Still wondering "why" the sawzall and band saw failed, it hit me that blade speed was way too low, and I think my band saw has multiple pullys for steel speed, vs wood speeds?, so I will see tomorrow.

 

Then as I got really close to finish length of kickup, It hit me that when it is done, then I start next with the 3 layers of sill that run from cowl to behind the seat,.......... and if I make the two top ones and glued and screwed them together "first", then when the bottom one goes on, I'd have to pull the body up off the frame to screw it to the bottom of the top two.  I knew I was just too overtired still, to gamble a big mistake, so I stopped.

 

I decided to keep parts hunting to see what I lack.  I started by looking for dash gauges, they were mixed in many boxes, but finally found the reclusive oil gauge.  Then decided to test assemble the entire dash, all switches, etc.  I ended up being forced to use a nice 1935 ign switch with armored cable, then find a 34 type bezel to fit that and match the 34 design, which I used a map light bezel for it.  Never found the 34 matching cigar lighter or map light at center of dash.  Went with spare 35 stuff from boxes and the 35 parts car.  These are all the "cat's eye" type knobs with a colored lens in the center. The 34 knobs would have a matching chomed or stainless knob trim, but the 35 is black.  I have to make do for now, and it looks normal to me.

 

I did go inside to look up that 34 dash pic I posted of the maroon estate conv.  I recalled it did not look like my rotted 34 parts car:

 

^^^^ See the difference?  The sedan has a vertical décor bar running in center of gauges and center of glove box.  WTH?  I then looked closely at what I have here and saw that these are actually thin brass inlaid panels, chromed and accent painted black.  They must be glued to the dash parts, so not wanting to bend the thin brass, I have the spare glove box one soaking in old gas I had,  then tomorrow, I must take the 34 sedan dash apart to get it's gauges inlaid piece.

 

I can't tell you how much I knew that having these junk cars, and right handy there, is a must. Either looking how things fit, or grabbing/mixing parts from 34 vs 35.  The 35 dash is so awful compared to the glitzy 34s.

  I may blast and repaint my really nice conv dash tomorrow, not the torched/sand rusty ones above^^^then go see if I have a bit of mahogany stain in the barn for that 1/4" décor piece at top.. It will be so awesome when done, I am positive.

 

Man...I find missing crutial things by accident; found the last 34-only, banjo wheel only, lever for light switch.  I even said out loud..."Found IT ! ".

 

Many small parts have very nice survivor chrome from countess other sources from the last two owners searches.  This car I am sure, was a parts car WAY back when it was so common.  At least two owners tried to "buy it back to complete" over the last 20 years.  I finally knew today, why I like survivors so much...they simply show some use like any "used" car does.  The Senior winners just don't give that feeling to me.  I like those a lot, but not for my own driving use or my admiring glances.  You all will be very pleased with my conservations on the car,...  it will be a bit tougher as some pieces simply "must" get new plating, .... but I bet I can pull it off to have it all blend in.

 

Having a really good time here, I hope I can get the pic thing fixed soon.

 

oh, on those last pics that are still stuck in my camera including stripping the doors down... I forgot to say that my assumptions that like all open cars I have owned, they "all" came new with leatherette door panels, but with with real leather front seat? ..... The LaSalle junk door had real leather on the doors, too!   .. But now I know I don't have enough of the nice leather John gave me..   

Edited June 4, 2017 by F&J (see edit history)

[alsancle]

So Frank,  I ran in to an old friend of my parents at the show today.  This guy is a big time collector, shows at Pebble every year, high high end stuff.  We were standing next to a really nice 39 Lasalle Business coupe and he remarked that the guy had saved it from being hot rodded, which led to a conversation about Lasalle which led to him telling me that he has been looking for a 34 Lasalle convertible coupe for years.   He finally bought one on the west cost.  Was very keen on the fact that Fleetwood made the bodies in 34 and not Fisher.   

[F&J]

1 hour ago, alsancle said:

So Frank,  I ran in to an old friend of my parents at the show today.  This guy is a big time collector, shows at Pebble every year, high high end stuff.  We were standing next to a really nice 39 Lasalle Business coupe and he remarked that the guy had saved it from being hot rodded, which led to a conversation about Lasalle which led to him telling me that he has been looking for a 34 Lasalle convertible coupe for years.   He finally bought one on the west cost.  Was very keen on the fact that Fleetwood made the bodies in 34 and not Fisher.   

I can't believe the HUGE difference in the 35 I have, when looking at each and every piece of a 34.  I think GM let Harley Earl start right there with whatever he chose to do,.... letting the horse run wild for the first time, in hopes of huge sales?  Come 1935, and a HUGE pricing drop necessity, then had washed away that "one year only" masterpiece of his.

 

Most auto books today say "little change for 1935", and my new (but old) Crestline Cad/LaS book only gives one page and 6 pics of the 34 LaS, but at least admitting it was the first GM with hyd brakes, and that it took Cad two years to get those.  But on the first chapter of 35 Cad, it gives that car credit for the "new" superior anti-sway setup in the rear...yea, right Cad boys...LaS had it first in 34.

 

Car is amazing even to countless unseen fasteners, and hidden details and techniques.  Each day brings more revelations of it's being "best LaSalle EVER".  Bar none...FACT.   Yet people ignore it, saying it is just a mishmash of cheaper GM lines to be a "cheapie car" 

 

AJ, "ask the man who owns one"     ....And ask the prior owner if we could, why, after a lifelong time in all ends of the hobby, he ended his act with a passel of 34 LaSalles..   He was the guy who sternly demanded that I be aware that the Murray bodied, wood framed Model A sedan was not just a Model A...he opened my eyes on that fact also. 

[Spinneyhill]

First thing about the photos. When you put the memory card in computer (SD card?), can Windows Explorer show you the files and icons of the photos on the card?

[F&J]

4 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

First thing about the photos. When you put the memory card in computer (SD card?), can Windows Explorer show you the files and icons of the photos on the card?

That is why I "tried" to use my old PC.  The Laptop only uses a USB cable to use the camera to upload or view, whereas my old PC also has a slot for reading different cards.  But that is when I found out that the oddly blinking power light at the back end of PC, meant it's power supply was defective, and the PC will now not "power up" to be able to help diagnose my issue.

 

But I did use the card successfully later last night on my now, standing-alone HP printer, that has it's own viewing screen. Common sense now, and the fact that weeks ago I had mentioned that my camera was not letting me use "all" what I knew was vacant memory, proves that the camera is the real issue.   I will need to get a new one, and also now be able to do videos myself    

 

but I am having so much fun diddling in the shop, that I just might not go get one right away...Heck, I even fooled with my Nash first thing yesterday....fitting and viewing my "new" steel sidemount covers "in" the fenderwell..

[F&J]

8 hours ago, alsancle said:

I ran in to an old friend of my parents at the show today. 

 

8 hours ago, alsancle said:

he has been looking for a 34 Lasalle convertible coupe for years.   He finally bought one on the west

Can I ramble a bit on the "here" and the "now" of our hobby?...

 

Back when I first entered the extended world of communicating with "like owners" of a car like what you had at the time, we either joined the national club or Marque based clubs to find someone to help you figure out what parts were missing or looked like on a basket case, and we used US Mail, rather than the high cost of phone calls!....or we went to Hershey show day and hoped to find an owner next to his car. 

 

"These days" with high tech communications, and not having to wait 2 weeks for snail mail, I ran into a brick wall with 2 infrequent members here that despite saying they both would indeed help with info or parts I knew they had...and spoke on the phone with each for 45 minutes minimum on my only phone which still costs me real dollars...they BOTH left me standing, still waiting by the bare Christmas tree on Dec 25th...  LOL,....that was some years ago with the Nash's early days.

 

AJ, I might just need to, (at a future time only),  "use you" to "lean" on that "old friend" of your "Dad", to figure out what is very likely the only parts ID issue I will ever need for my LaS.  That sentence and it's "..." notations, I am trying to show how when in real life, in your daily adventures or even occupations, we use that same path many times. 

 

I found yesterday in some mixed new/repro tiny parts stashes... a pair of weird newly machined "things".  The shape/size, contour, made me know exactly where it fits on a 34 only, conv only, LaS.  It attaches on the lower windshield frame, right at each wiper shaft. I studied the incomplete ones years ago on the maroon car, but drew a total blank.  I have a great close up pic of the left one, and wiper arm, on that car from back then...but that pic is now held captive in my dead PC  

 

^^^^ if I right click on the above pic, then choose "open in a new window", then I can fully expand it to clearly see these parts:

 

The driver side has the only wiper arm/blade in the pic of when the car first came out of the estate.  See the odd looking wiper arm?  That is merely a "inner framework skeleton" minus it's art deco, 34 LaS only, diecast cover.

 

Those two weird parts at each tower, I now know from my stash parts, that these are just a "pivot-anchor point", for a stainless steel thick wire that must act like a twin-arm wiper arm system like on a big ship or aircraft has now.  It must affect the very short wiper blade to also "angle" as it sweeps across the low windshield height.  (like I KEEP saying, the 34 LaS is a one of a kind quirk in automotive history...never ever to be repeated in the same big picture, today or in the future..) 

 

I did also find one of those arm skeletons in a box of smalls yesterday also, but can't do a pic until someone shows up.  I did take a pic of the surprise finding the diecast wiper arm cover still remaining on one side of the rotted 34 Sedan weeks ago..(these are impossible to find, to recast)...but I must have deleted it by mistake  

 

 

[F&J]

back to my constant posts on "engineering or stylistic" oddities I keep finding here..

 

I have had the following pics posted for two weeks on the "what is it" forum, anf no one so far has ever seen or heard of this GM logo'd rear seat heater. ECEPT "TinIndian from Canada".  Look at his exact words on my request! :

 

QUOTE: Yes, we were going to a Caterer's Picnic at Winnipeg Beach in 1948.  (Every summer for years the travelling salesmen in Manitoba hosted a Caterer's Picnic at Winnipeg Beach) The car we were riding in was a 1934 LaSallee.  Being a curious little kid I asked the driver what that thing on the back of his seat was.  He said I should guess and then all of a sudden I was able to guess correctly because he turned it on.  I thought that was neat because my Grandfather's Pontiac didn't have an heater at all so the front seat had some heat from the engine and the rear seat had no heat at all and any cars with heaters that I had been in only had heat in the front. END Quote.

 

^^^ is that cool or what?  To have the ability to task someone's memories from their childhood...right here on AACA!  Peter G works his butt off to make and keep the AACA site what it has become...an information highway into the past.

 

 It is likely not LaS only, but GM only due to the GM logo, and very likely first appeared on 34 GM cars.

 

It is definitely made to only fit on the back of the front bench seat, about half way off the floor to top of seat back.  Pre-bent copper tubes shown laying near it, are quite hidden when installed through the wooden floor down low.  The thinness and the obvious wedge shape of the heater, shows a perfect match to the sedan front backrest.  Unique in that the fan is visible at the face, not behind the core, like a front firewall heater would be on the same car!   The fan pulls air inwards, through the core, then blows downwards to flow around the rear seat passengers feet, then heating the area from the lower part to the upper cabin..Geez.. Wow

 

 

 

below...pic is not for the folks who don't want to get dirty...but the two LaS collectors NEVER knew the old rotted 34 sedan HAD the heater... the seat framing rotted awy, letting the backrest fall backwards, then tons of refuse piled in the car over many decades kept that heater hidden.

 

I dug down to floor level, first looking for two unique floor track guide "posts" which I needed, and did find those in this mess:

Note above^^^ this LaS has gullwing center door post,  ^^   LOL

 

I also took the LONG muffler off.  I knew it looked even longer than the one I showed on my motor run video,which I now think is genuine LaS.  The one on this car is at least a foot or more longer!   ...and this car has a cable controlled exhaust cut-out, just like my Nash had one installed many decades ago.

 

 

The heater; I would like to use to heat the rumble seat, but I need to first figure out the bulkhead wood partition wall behind the front seat to know the angle of it, perhaps no angle?.  I am 99% sure the maroon car had a solid wall behind the seat.  I showed a new wood X frame 2 weeks ago here, and we found a old partly rotted main part of another on the last haul of parts...I just need time to try to match any screw holes on the old one, to any wood parts in my car.

 

.

[alsancle]

Frank, you may become the world's #1 34 Lasalle expert.  Are those port holes on the sedan salvageable?

[F&J]

1 hour ago, alsancle said:

Frank, you may become the world's #1 34 Lasalle expert.  Are those port holes on the sedan salvageable?

 

Which ones?,,,dude... 

No idea how many are here, but finally had to do a pencil & paper list ALL the rear fenders yesterday, as to R/L ,and if step plate holes, and if 34-only like I need, or some later ones, and if good/bad/midrange...   I now have THREE step plate ones that I thought were "none" a few days ago.

 

Had the quick thought right after posting this AM to zip out for a new camera, then whilst I'm there, a new lightweight battery for the trunk of my 32 Ford.  I was running a monster big truck diesel one, only because it was free, and I also thought I needed the extra amps to go up to the big early Olds Rocket motor....but then the car bottoms out on potholes with a 2nd person.  I have been using a small one from my Son's chevy truck and it cranks fine.

 

I get to the Walmart, 10 minutes away, the store floors are wicked cleaned/shining, but racks missing, displays gone, and no helper at the Video center.  Asked a 30-ish guy clean cut with rip van winkle beard and some tattoos ; "do you happen to know anything about cameras..."  ........."Why yesssss, I dooo.... as a matter of coincidence"

 

I said it quick/concise:  I need a camera with a USB setup, I need indoor outdoor close pics, and need good video with good audio but don't need tele lens...and, I do auto fourms, and video uplink for car work.  He pointed right away to two and said "I do welding vids on YouTube, and also I'm on Jeep forums"  ...lol... As my former landlord would always say in a coincidence situation, ... in a bland voice:  "..Imagine  that.. "  LOL

 

So, I needed the camera today as I might just remove the rotted 34 dash ass'y to rob that décor insert, and I need records of what goes where. When I looked at how it all comes out this AM, I noticed it TOO has the wider side bolting flanges that I wrongly assumed were convert only???  So what on earth 34 Las, uses that much narrower dash flanges??? It IS 34 LaS dash I found, I am positive..

[chistech]

I find many historians only talk about the marquee brands with affection even though many of the lesser known known brands had very unique, ahead of their time, features. My 32' Olds had a nickel alloy block, full oil pressurization including rifle drilled rods, automatic choke, automatic idle set, and cabin adjustable shocks for example and you don't ever hear much about the car when people talk of 32' era vehicles. I of course, didn't know of the features on the 34' LaSalle that you mentioned above I'm sure for the same reasons. Some subtle differences like twist lock wire connections at the left toe board, which offer easy body from frame removal, are on the Olds and not the Chevy or Pontiac. Working on all the early GM cars I've done so far, the Olds seems like it was leading in innovation. GM just took stuff from them and spread it around to the other brands and I'm sure Olds got some of that loving too along the way.

[F&J]

3 hours ago, chistech said:

GM cars I've done so far, the Olds seems like it was leading in innovation.

 

 

Yes, I wonder if Olds was always the secret GM engineering dept???   As most here do not know, the 36-38 Buick big series top shift transmission was one of a few favorite HD transmissions for souped up hotrods/racecars.

 

I build quite a few of those just like the old days.  They were closed drive, but with some tricks, you use all the innards of a 51-64 Olds 3 speed selector trans, to use it behind an early Olds or Cad V8 OHV, and it will have the open drive.

 

Well, when I first started at the estate, I saw a 34 LaS trans on the floor that looked just like the Buick...but later found just a tad bit of differences....so at some point I found out that the 34 LaS used a Olds 8 motor, so I knew the trans too.  So I have traced that postwar trans from the 60s, all the way back to maybe???..it's real roots under a 32 Olds 8??   and for all these decades, rodders called it a Buick trans.  lol

 

Pics test I took w/new camera for the woodworkers here.  1890s Pat Date, old "king of the hill, woodwork vice cabable of amazing abilities.  The head swivels and locks, the head can come up to 90 straight, it can grip tapered planks, on and on...like pop-up  bench dogs , flip the head 180 and have a machinist vice...

 

My late boos was a junkpicker/pop engine guy...He went to a night auction every thrursday in Foster RI.  Nobody raised their hand when it opened at 10, so he said "FIVE" and that is what I paid in mid 80s  Five dollars!  Only seen one other ion person at a back street woodworking shop,... kinda like a starving artist type guy....like Ben...lol

 

^^^^ this is looking at it almost straight down, showing the combo angle I was hold the kick up to trim it with sawzall.

^^^^^ showing underside , curled lever is to release a latch so you can spin the head like a propeller, the rear lock bar and lever is what holds the vice when you go from bench level to hold things at 90 to floor, or to 180 or whatever.

 

Yes my place is a mess, worse than Bens mill, but I will get to it when things calm down,.  I just set up a second try to get everyone at Kenny's place at 5 PM today....I'll get some pics to show

 

[F&J]

today update:  short as possible to explain why I need to change my shorts...

 

I tried to find a odd wiper arm piece I spoke of to AJ.  I know I have seen it twice while looking for pieces to put a complete dash together.  It is not working like this, I cannot find a part I saw even a day ago, so this morning I wanted to find a way or space to spread all the small boxes of stuff out.

 

Out of necessity, I thought I would put the 69 Dart hood back on that my Son took off years ago to strip paint.  That hood would be right at the front end of the LaS.  Cover with a white sheet and perfect place.  But in my haste to get the LaS in the end bay, I had to move some stuff my son put there.  ...A sprayer for gardens, a small tool tray etc.  I put those up high so he could see them....on the Dart motor.  So, I moved it all, then got down to s long flat cardboard box.  It felt heavy so I cut it open...

^^^^^  I know I mentioned on a technical thread a few weeks ago, that it was only a year ago that "I found out that Dorman made water jacket plates for "used cars" back then",  and may have said "I'd never find one for my new LaSalle but mine are all junk"...  ---that Dorman plate was at the top, then layer upon layers of the rest.  I have never seen this box before, I am positive.  It was taped with very old wide clear tape...not been opened in a decade or more!  Can you believe this??? Pan gasket and side cover gasket ... manifold set too.  I need to ask friend Joe if he put it in the shop?  I know I would have opened it when, and if I saw it.

 

 

ok, up to house...change shorts.. then decided to get the hood for the Dart.  It was standing up against a post. A garden tractor hood against one side, so I wanted it far away.  I walk to opposite wall, to store it and spotted two small boxes.  One had a 36-7 Cord gravel shield covering the contents, the other was closed. I did recall the Cord part being here for some years ago, but hadn't seen it since

..

^^^^^^^ Cord shield to the left of the clocks... clean shorts again... I somehow never looked at this stuff when looking for much needed mechanical parts for the 3 survivors I had here for fixing-up.  I guess I had put these boxes off to the opposite side back then to make me know it was not mechanical parts?  Has to be why they were there tucked  away.  2 rechromed T handles, strikers etc, not show quality stuff, but....  also lots of small "things" to sort..

 

Should I go buy a lottery ticket today...or did I already win ?

 

Look at the tiny cardboard box with a strange bolt with long head. It did not come out of that small box though.  It is a perfect match to one I found a few days ago, that I assumed was one of the missing posts at top of windshield frame, for the conv top to lock onto.  Not sure as the one I found does not seem to "reach any threads" in the W/S post?  Also it looked like a different head than the front view of the maroon car?  Maybe the post I tried was stripped but I would think the head should be a bit rounded, to help align the top?  Does it look like something else???

 

.

Edited June 5, 2017 by F&J (see edit history)

[r1lark]

Wow Frank, you really hit the jackpot today!!

 

I'm really enjoying this thread. There is not much better fun that finding rare old parts.

 

Me and a couple of my Studebaker buddies went to a Studebaker meet on Saturday, that the family that was hosting it had a bunch of miscellaneous Stude parts in the shop that they were selling. Found some treasures myself, but not as old nor as rare as your LaSalle parts.