Mpgp1999 Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Hello after repairing the engine I found to have big problems with my transmission 2nd gear to be exact. The gear has almost no power and makes a terrible growl at idle in neutral. The gear oil of full of brass shavings. When driving the transmission poops and comes out of 2nd when driving. The gear leaver just comes out of 2nd when it feels like it. The other gears seem fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 A growl in neutral: could that be the front bearing? Where is the bronze in that box: the reverse idler bushes and thrust washer(s)? It sounds like a strip-down is in order. It is a pain for your but good to hear that you are correcting years of use and abuse so you can enjoy driving the car. Ref. the front bearing: I put new bearings in my Dodge 8 box and it still rattles in neutral. I think I remember hearing or reading once there are special bearings (low clearance or ?) for that location in a gearbox and I put the wrong ones in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 I have just finished rebuilding my '26 gearbox and although I have yet to fit it, as the job is fresh in my mind I thought you might care to share some of my experiences. When I first took the top off I found the counter shaft cluster would move alarmingly to and fro on the shaft. The bushes had been replaced but the thrust washer had been missed out. When I turned the box over it dropped out on the bench! I removed the retaining bolt and withdrew the shaft slightly then fitted the thrust washer and a shim to correct end float. The second gear, as you have found, is the one which takes all the thrust and consequently wears most. I was not so much worried about the wear on the teeth as the noticeable "wobble" of the cog on the shaft. This is a square section sliding gear and at first I thought I would be able to silver solder the inside surfaces and build up enough to reduce the rocking movement. This proved unsatisfactory (it just wouldn't adhere despite considerable efforts) so I then considered hard chroming either the shaft or the gear - but this would have cost too much as a "one off". Fortunately I was able to acquire a better gear and fitted that. I got a replacement throw out bearing at the same time. At first I thought there was a problem with the way the middle part moves about but it seems this is correct! The counter - shaft bearings had been replaced. I think they should be rollers but mine are bronze bushings; as they seemed fine I left well alone. I did, however, replace both main shaft bearings which were completely worn out. They are different sizes. I took the opportunity of fitting sealed bearings and replaced numerous stripped bolts etc. Some screws had broken off and needed drilling out etc. Incidentally, the flywheel has a ball bearing which should be replaced with a sealed unit as there is no lubrication to it. Also, the driving pins probably have grooves worn into them. This can make gear changing difficult as the clutch plates "catch" and don't always release properly. Although replacement pins are available there is a problem as the flywheel needs to be heated and can crack so rather than remove the pins, I have smoothed out the grooves in the hope that gear changing will be easier. Don't omit the anti rattle springs! If you want to check the condition of your clutch plates you will need a press and a tool to effect the removal of the split rings. I simply made mine from a piece of 2" thick wall pipe with sections cut out. Please be aware that replacement clutch plates may well be riveted with cap head rivets and this will give only a limited clutch life. I would recommend having the clutch facings fitted by a specialist if you don't have the right tool to splay both ends of "open" rivets at the same time. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 I'm guessing I might not be able to drive to the car show this weekend it is 65 miles there and back Can I make it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted May 6, 2017 Share Posted May 6, 2017 I think I would worry that the gearbox may suffer a catastrophic failure and cost more to repair or even be beyond repair. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 Just drain the transmission I found a lot of brass tons of silver shavings and the oil was silver in colour I also found large pieces of metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 The answer to your question is clear. Gearbox overhaul. Now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 11, 2017 Author Share Posted May 11, 2017 Now the question is can I drive it to the repair shop without doing more damage It's only 20 minutes away in a modern car And down the most curvy road ever Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 At this stage of the game I don't think you have much to lose........ .......as long as your brakes are good....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 ....but DO put oil in it... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 Car made it to the shop i got another transmission that is in poor condition but the inside parts are good the transmission is 5 years or so older it does not have the neutral lock but the gears are the same I am currently looking for new drums because the ones I have are bad and the studs are stripped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 (edited) Any advice on exchanging parts of the transmission Edited May 20, 2017 by Mpgp1999 Left out important word (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 What parts failed in the old one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Not sure I haven't opened up my transmission I am currently finishing putting in new studs in the head and painting and priming the head I'm still waiting for the better transmission from the Myers once I get that I will potentially replace the bearings and then switch The transmissions 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 So how's it going?....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 New transmission was taken apart except for the counter shaft I painted it Got new sealed bearings And now I am waiting for shop space so that I can switch the two 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 I also started to paint the engine it's original color I also soldered up the leak in the top tank of the radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 I hope you don't mind me mentioning it but I noticed you seem to have an exhaust manifold leak. I think this is quite common as the mating surfaces gradually burn away. The copper crush rings usually supplied are not really up to the job. I found the solution to mine was individual motorcycle gaskets.; they are available in a wide variety of sizes (if you find the right supplier on Ebay). I was fortunate to find a good used manifold but I believe it would be possible to have the worn surfaces machined back to sound metal. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 Since then I have clean out the surface and put in brand-new crush rings I also painted the bottom and the side of the engine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30dodge35 Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Glad to see you are getting some hands on time on your car, looking good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 11 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said: I also started to paint the engine it's original color I also soldered up the leak in the top tank of the radiator Your Dodge seems to keep some classy company! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted July 1, 2017 Author Share Posted July 1, 2017 New transmission it is there supposed to be a spring on the clutch? or anything holding it in place I just put it in the way I found it the clutch pack is new (3 years) and the holes are oval again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 I suspect the tranny in yours is the same as in what used to be mine. Unless someone jumps in I'll scan some illustrations from the Dodge Bible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 (edited) You will need to fit the two anti rattle springs on the back of the clutch if you haven't already done so. They hook into the back clutch plates and push over the pins in the flywheel. Ray. Edited July 5, 2017 by R.White (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mpgp1999 Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 17 hours ago, R.White said: You will need to fit the two anti rattle springs on the back of the clutch if you haven't already done so. They hook into the back clutch plates and push over the pins in the flywheel. Ray. Is there a way I can put those springs in with out taking out the engine and or the transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 You don't have to remove the engine but you will need to support it when you pull back the transmission and rear engine support frame. I know this is a pain in the butt. You can get the springs from Myers or Romar. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 Mpgp 1999, You mention that the holes in the discs are oval. I assume this was caused because the springs were not fitted when the plates were replaced 3 years ago. The sad news is that fitting the springs now is like closing the gate after the horse has bolted. I would suggest new plates as well No sense in half doing the job seeing that they are not the easiest of trannys to remove Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 I agree. It must have been making one hell of a racket! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cahartley Posted September 17, 2017 Share Posted September 17, 2017 You haven't checked in for a while........I hope things are going right for you........for a change....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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