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Beemon

1956 Buick WCFB Rebuild

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Finally secured the correct WCFB model 2347S and am just starting the clean up process. The first difference I noticed between the WCFB and the 4GC is that the base of the carb doesn't have the cut out for the heat track. It's just flat. I'm going to be picking up a kit here pretty soon, but I've also seen that there needs to be some type of steel plate underneath the carb. There is no mention of this plate in the shop manual, and my 4GC didn't have the plate either. Also, isn't the WCFB base cast iron and not aluminum? Is this plate necessary?

 

Thanks in advance to replies. I'm pretty excited to get this one going. It's much more complex than the 4GC, which means it'll be much more fun.

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As far as I understand, the Rochester carb has a cast iron base.  The Carter has aluminum and you need that steel plate which goes on the intake first, under the carbs base gasket.

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What if I've already blocked off the heat track ports? Do I still need it or will it be okay?

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I make the steel plates a little thicker than the stock one.  If you want I will send you one for $10.

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1 hour ago, Airy Cat said:

I make the steel plates a little thicker than the stock one.  If you want I will send you one for $10.

 

Will the thicker plate interfere with air cleaner clearance and front mounting bracket?

 

Also here's the carb. I started brushing it out will it soaked in Dawn detergent and hot water. The water got cold, so I pulled it out. I was told it came off a late 55, but it has the correct service tag. Some of the linkage is rusted, too. I don't have a shop, as some of you know, so for time being I'll just be disassembling the big parts and getting them cleaned up as good as possible and then reassembling with new stuff. The restoration of the carb can wait. I was surprised, that under the dirt I managed to get off the bowls, that the plating still had the green/gold sheen to it. Also looks like the baffle wasn't present when the carb was on the car. I can scrape off whatever this stuff is, oxidized aluminum? When I pulled the dual quad intake off last year and put the stock one back on, I drilled and tapped the intake heat track with all thread plugs since I was told the heat track was irrelevant with modern fuels. Because there was no exhaust burn on the 4GCs, I think it's safe to say I can run the WCFB without the metal plate. Also, does anyone have any tips for unsticking the secondary butterflies?

 

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I think the rusty throttle arms will go nicely with my rusty power steering pump. :P

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Posted (edited)

So I need a little help with the choke spring. In the photos, it doesn't look right. With the choke on, the long ear of the spring is at the bottom and the other side is on the leg in the middle of the rod. Is this correct? This is how the carb came to me.

wcfb1.jpg

wcfb2.jpg

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Edited by Beemon (see edit history)

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are you asking about the spring that moves the fast idle cam? That would be the one on the shaft between the fast idle cam and the disc behind the cam that is for the rod which connects to the choke butterfly? 

 

If so, Is the concern that the fast idle cam has not moved to the highest step in your pictures?  And further, if that is the concern, can you physically move the fast idle cam to the high step position, or is it just stuck on the shaft?

 

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Buy a gallon of EVAPO-RUST for around $25 at your FLAPS and let the carb soak in it for a couple three or more days. It doesn't contain any acids and you won't get it any cleaner than doing it this way. It's reusable for other metal parts too.

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

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Beeman - worry about the adjustment of the fast idle AFTER you free up the secondary throttle shaft.

 

Jon

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5 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

are you asking about the spring that moves the fast idle cam? That would be the one on the shaft between the fast idle cam and the disc behind the cam that is for the rod which connects to the choke butterfly? 

 

If so, Is the concern that the fast idle cam has not moved to the highest step in your pictures?  And further, if that is the concern, can you physically move the fast idle cam to the high step position, or is it just stuck on the shaft?

 

My concern is correct spring placement because it looks like the spring fell out of place. 

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Carb soaked overnight, with no progress. Went to the local carb shop today and they said good luck. Thanks.  Walked into the local NAPA today and it was a pretty good business day. A gentleman with a 56 Ford and the local high end back yard hot rod shop owner were in there talking with the in-the-know counter guy. The shop owner specifies in carbs, and told me to use a torch lightly on the throttle shaft and spray with wd-40. If I can't get it loose, he told me to bring it by and he'd get it loose for free. He said it's rare for just the secondaries to seize and that the car was probably driven by some guy who never used them. 

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I don't know if this is an applicable pic, but it's raining outside and I don't feel like doing anything but sitting here:

003.JPG

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Thanks for the pic, that really helps. Looks like my spring is off. Much appreciated! 

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I've scrolled and compared our pictures 25 times and decided I can't tell anything about what is going on there.

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2 hours ago, Beemon said:

He said it's rare for just the secondaries to seize and that the car was probably driven by some guy who never used them. 

 

Hmmmm -- maybe there IS something to that saying: "Use it or loose it!"  (Now, if only I could remember what it is...)  :unsure:

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There are lots of use IT or lose ITs!  Even with those extra left-over parts!

 

NTX5467

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I got the throttle shaft unstuck! The torch I bought didn't work, and with my school brains, I figured something else out. I waited until mom was asleep, then filled one side of the sink with hot water and the other with ice. It took only two dunks from hot to cold to get it to spin freely! So now I'm at the rebuild point. Don't mind my lack of organization... I just bought a gasket set because everything else looked good. The only thing I couldn't get out was the top hat with the check ball in it, but I tested the accelerator pump with water and it seems to be working. No sense in fixing something that ain't broke! 

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Tonight was a productive night. I kept the original needle and seat valves because they were metal and not rubber. As stated above, I also kept the original plunger. After the rebuild, I filled the bowls with water and checked the plunger - a healthy spray. I didn't mess with the floats at all - I cradled them and coddled them until they went back in, they looked just like they came out. Metering rods were a bit of a hassle getting into the Jets, but the adjustment was easy enough. Can't wait to put it on the car and see how it does. 

 

As Kosage Chavis would say, "overall an easy task."

 

Edit: the spring I was asking about was on the fast idle cam. On mine, the spring lip was misplaced on the middle step with the spring ear on the bottom step. Thanks to Leon bee, they are both in the bottom step. 

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Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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19 minutes ago, Beemon said:

I also kept the original plunger.

 

If it's leather, it will outlast anything that you can buy new today.  Look'n good -- can't wait to hear the result!

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Did plugging the heat passages block the flow of heat to the choke element? If it did you might want to go to a ported Bakelite choke housing with tubing and a heat exchanger or convert to an electric choke from a mid-1970's car.

I'm thinking your choke is only going to sense radiant heat from the engine.

Bernie

 

Oh, those two things at 9 o'clock and 12 o'clock can be the most dangerous "tools" ever used in car repair.

Edited by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

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7 hours ago, Beemon said:

I waited until mom was asleep, then filled one side of the sink with hot water and the other with ice. It took only two dunks from hot to cold to get it to spin freely!

 

Too bad your mom does not realize how resourceful you are.  I never would have thought of hot water and ice!  But I will now.  Excellent!

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The heat passages just preheat the base of the carb for fuel atomization or something. Also I agree, but my weapon of choice was the smart phone with the shop manual on it. ;) I'm already planning on an electric choke since my manifold heat riser has been broken\I ripped the stuck valve out two years ago. 

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RE: the hot H2O and ice

 

Takes a bit longer, but you can get more of a temperature swing by using a ziplock bag and a freezer.

 

Jon.

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The freezer was my next idea if the hot water and ice didn't do it. 

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