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Wire wheel lug nuts - torque?


DCE

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12 hours ago, DCE said:

Thanks for the comments.  Keiser, they are similar to the photos you show.  Do you feel 90 lbs would be reasonable as Zeke suggested?

 

What is the thread diameter and pitch (tpi)?

 

It is hard to know how good the steel is on these: if we guess Grade 5 in modern terminology and the thread is 1/2-13, then 76 lbf.ft is the recommended torque. If 1/2-20 (UNF) then 85 lbf.ft. If they are 9/16-12 then 109 lbf.ft is recommended.

http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/tighteningtorque.htm

 

If the steel is not as good as Grade 5, then use lesser torques. Grade 2 would be about 2/3 of the above values.

 

I have never used a torque wrench in wheel nuts. Just "tight" with the standard length of sliding T socket drive.

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So long as the wheel nuts are nipped up reasonably tight they will not come undone.  It is more important to be sure the threads are good.  Sound advise from Keiser 31.  I believe you have a greater risk from over tightening than anything.  Remember just how old these studs and nuts are and if you feel uncertain check them more often.  Even if the  nuts do come loose, you will know about it long before a wheel comes off.  

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5 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

 

What is the thread diameter and pitch (tpi)?

 

It is hard to know how good the steel is on these: if we guess Grade 5 in modern terminology and the thread is 1/2-13, then 76 lbf.ft is the recommended torque. If 1/2-20 (UNF) then 85 lbf.ft. If they are 9/16-12 then 109 lbf.ft is recommended.

http://www.almabolt.com/pages/catalog/bolts/tighteningtorque.htm

 

If the steel is not as good as Grade 5, then use lesser torques. Grade 2 would be about 2/3 of the above values.

 

I have never used a torque wrench in wheel nuts. Just "tight" with the standard length of sliding T socket drive.

 

Edited by DCE (see edit history)
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I believe the bolt is either 1/2" or 9/16", fine thread, 18 threads per inch.   I am not certain of the grade.  They are original wheel lug bolts that appear to be in excellent condition.   Your link provides great information.  Thanks so much!  Based on your link it appears 122 to 172 would be acceptable.  I prefer to yield to caution and possibly torque to a max of 90, as suggested, and check them regularly.

Edited by DCE (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, RickBrinker said:

I use 35 FT pounds

 

I'm with you on this, Rick.  Personally, I seldom exceed 40 ft pounds on anything pre war with the exception of cylinder heads and hub nuts.  It's actually the taper on the lug nuts that holds the wheel on rather than just the threads.  People often mistake the taper for simply centralising the wheel but it does more than that.

Edited by R.White (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, R.White said:

 

I'm with you on this, Rick.  Personally, I seldom exceed 40 ft pounds on anything pre war with the exception of cylinder heads and hub nuts.  It's actually the taper on the lug nuts that holds the wheel on rather than just the threads.  People often mistake the taper for simply centralising the wheel but it does more than that.

I agree. You have no idea of the grade of steel in the wheel nuts or the bolts they go onto. I have never heard of using a torque wrench on them. If you are experienced you might get some clue as the steel grade with a file test.

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