carmover

More 25 Starter woes!

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carmover    20

I just got my start generator back from Jason Smith and he did a beautiful job restoring it .He machined a new roller for it to replace the worn out one.It has a new comutator and rewound armature and everything else is new.He machine tested it and said it checked out perfectly.The car has been rewired and the switch was rebuilt by Bob's.All lights work perfectly as does the cigar lighter.All wiring was done by the book and checked and double checked. but when I step on the pedal nothing happens.I noticed that the round plunger does not move back very much and over half of the pedal travel is free play.My problems started after I wired the car Could I be missing something here?

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One of the shafts in the starter linkage can be adjusted for length by turning. Its threaded into the next part inside the casting.  This will probably require unbolting both crossover castings in order to turn it. If you figure out another way to turn that shaft without all the disassembly, do tell !

 

Kevin

starter adjustment.jpg

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dibarlaw    349

Carmover:

 The gears in the side pocket of the transmission may be gummed up. They will need to be cleaned and lubed. If you have a lot of free play the return spring may be broken in the crossover box. Our mechanism for the 1925 Standard is different than the Master as Kevin has shown in his photo. The principals are all the same  just different design of parts. The other photo is what these starter gears looked like after I lost one of the clutch facings. Everything in this side case should be cleaned, gears able to spin, and slide on their shafts.

DSCF2980.thumb.JPG.36362e0c7fdc731c17d7d4e5eb0c6441.JPGDSCF2972.thumb.JPG.bcac3149c80eef93bba758fe75d46cd7.JPGGood Luck :

Larry

DSCF2973.JPG

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ROD W    80

car mover.      Firstly,  remove the plate at the back of the  S/G,  the generator brushes should be engaged and the starter brushes disengaged.  Turn on the ignition and the S/G should turn slowly  ( motor ).

                     Turn off the ignition and get somebody to push down on the starter pedal,  the generator brushes should disengage and the starter brushes engage.  When the starter pedal is depressed the tapered shaft that raises and lower,s the brushes should move backwards and forewords.  

    As dibarlaw said,  lubricate all the shafts and lubrication holes in the transfer boxes,  there is a spring in the transfer box ( tower ) behind the S/G which returns the starter pedal to the raised position. 

    Remove the plate that covers the gears that engage the starter gear to the flywheel,  lubricate the shafts and ensure they are engaging and disengaging ( moving back and foreword ) when the starter pedal is depressed.

SAM_0003.JPG

Edited by ROD W (see edit history)
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carmover    20

Tonight I took the cover off of the gear cover and the acess cover of of the sg and  with the switch on the brush on the small commutator is engaged and the one on the large comm is open and the armature is turning slowly.When I push the starter pedal down it is not coming over to mesh with the flywheel.While pressing the pedal down I put a prybar behind the larger gear and with a slite pressure it moved over and turned the motor but when I let it up it was still sticking.I sprayed the gears with wd 40 and lubricated them but it is still not moving over and engaging.

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carmover    20

It Seems to be sticking in the shaft under the starter pedal.I took the pedal off and everything looks good and the spring is in good shape.I have been working with the shaft and got the engine to turn over several times so it is getting better.I appreciate all of the tips and information you guys have given me and I think I have just about got this problem whipped!

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ROD W    80

Is the spring properly located in the transfer case and actually being put under tension when the starter pedal is being pushed down.  It has been 30 years since I had a standard Buick,  but I seem to remember it was difficult  putting the spring back in place after disassembly.

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carmover    20

Rod,I Didn't remove the spring but it is pretty stout and in good shape.What I do to reasemble is put the lever assembly in a vise and  position the lever in the housing and run a zip tie around the lever and through one of the holes and once I get the bolts started and the assembly in the right position on the car I cut the zip tie and pull it out and the tighten the bolts.

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carmover    20

I have got all of the parts clean and lubricated and sliding back and forth well and I can push the gears back by hand and put the battery cable back on and the engine turns over.I think the problem is in the play under the starter pedal.DSC_0007.thumb.JPG.0b7c53945ffb41020c10f6f405ccdfc0.JPG

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carmover    20

I am not sure if the piece in the picture is factory or a repair but it doesn't have much for the start lever to catch on and pull the shaft back far enough.The starter is hitting the firewall.I can hit the starter pedal 5 or 6 times and it will finally turn the motor over.The shaft is well lubricated and will move in and out easily several times and suddenly bind up.I don't know what to do at this point very frustrated!

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dibarlaw    349

carmover:

I can not tell what the image is from your photo. Detail is blurred. I hope someone else can help since I can not get to my car and dig in to check. (Rotator Cuff surgery) It really limits ones ambition!

Larry

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carmover    20

Larry,I know what you mean about the Rotator Cuff My Right one is getting pretty bad.I hope you get better real soon.The part in the picture I am trying to show is what looks like a fix someone did at one time in the cars life.When you push the starter pedal there is not much for the lever to push against to pull the shaft back.This is where all of the play in the starter is.The pedal goes 3/4 of the way to the firewall before it starts to pull the shaft back.I am thinking of building that part up to take out the slack in the pedal.When you push the pedal down it moves the gears almost all the way back but not quite enough to move the brushes.I f I keep hitting the pedal it will eventually turn the motor.I looked in the book of parts and can't find anything in there to show me what the factory part looks like.

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Larry Schramm    711
10 hours ago, carmover said:

Larry,I know what you mean about the Rotator Cuff My Right one is getting pretty bad.I hope you get better real soon

 

I have had both sides done.  The first one was textbook perfect and took about 6 weeks total recuperation to using it.  The other side had a different type of tear and was a little longer to heal.   As long as you have a good doctor, I would recommend it to get it done sooner than later.  The Dr. that did my shoulders also did partial knee surgery for my wife.  They also turned out great. She just wishes that she would have had the surgery done sooner.

 

My recommendation to you is to get it done sooner than later. You will be happy you did!

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carmover    20

Starter is now working like it did new.The problem was that at some time in its life the part of the casting that the lever pushes against when you push the pedal was broken off.Someone made a simple repair by drilling two holes and bolting a flat piece of metal with some braising done on one end so the start lever could catch it.It had started jumping over the brazing.I had a time getting the screws out but I got it off and put it in a vice and hammered it back taking most of the slack out and making it taller.I made sure I had just enough room for the lever to go between .Now there is no play at all and when you step on the starter petal the starter comes to life.I thank everyone with their help with this,Problem Solved!

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