NC-car-guy Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 I will be using my dremel tonight to cut the welds. Then I am bringing the piece to a friend who is a machinist by trade. He's going to generate a drawing and we'll make an additional part. (I cannot make multiples to sell as I am not allowed to use the machines at work for personal gains). However, I will gladly free share the drawing, then if anyone ever needs to make one of these things again (I doubt that will happen, but if) they can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 versus making a new part, could you not instead dremel cut the 3 flexible spokes off the 4 inch round plate and swap that plate including the splined piece and cam. I have seen the tack welds of these spokes to the plate break before and be repaired by tack welding back on. Just a thought. Is this the steering wheel I sold you? if so please know I never realized it was missing that cam and am sorry for all the trouble it is causing. One has to wonder how the heck it went missing in the first place. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) 8 hours ago, MrEarl said: versus making a new part, could you not instead dremel cut the 3 flexible spokes off the 4 inch round plate and swap that plate including the splined piece and cam. I have seen the tack welds of these spokes to the plate break before and be repaired by tack welding back on. Just a thought. Is this the steering wheel I sold you? if so please know I never realized it was missing that cam and am sorry for all the trouble it is causing. One has to wonder how the heck it went missing in the first place. Sh*t happens. We all miss things. I do wonder how the piece got gone, especially on an otherwise stellar steering wheel. I didn't even think about cutting the spokes loose and swapping the hubs.... interesting idea, would allow me to use the nicer chrome trim ring also. I'll evaluate and report back, probably tomorrow as I have meetings until 8pm tonight. Edited May 4, 2017 by wndsofchng06 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 30 minutes ago, wndsofchng06 said: Sh*t happens. We all miss things. I do wonder how the piece got gone, especially on an otherwise stellar steering wheel. I didn't even think about cutting the spokes loose and swapping the hubs.... interesting idea, would allow me to use the nicer chrome trim ring also. I'll evaluate and report back, probably tomorrow as I have meeting until 8pm tonight. Well this could turn out just splendid! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 New riveted wagner shoes came today: Also finally got this cam off the wheel; I'll weld up the cuts, clean it up, have it copied, and move on. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 6, 2017 Author Share Posted May 6, 2017 On 5/3/2017 at 1:32 PM, MrEarl said: versus making a new part, could you not instead dremel cut the 3 flexible spokes off the 4 inch round plate and swap that plate including the splined piece and cam. I have seen the tack welds of these spokes to the plate break before and be repaired by tack welding back on. Just a thought. Is this the steering wheel I sold you? if so please know I never realized it was missing that cam and am sorry for all the trouble it is causing. One has to wonder how the heck it went missing in the first place. So I looked at this option... the spokes are not just "tacked" the welds are under them, like a spot weld almost. Anyhow, trying to cut these was going to end in disaster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 Next week (Monday) I dive into the world of title bonding in NC. My insurance company sells me a bond, based on the DMV's book value on the car. The inspector is coming Monday to view the VIN plate and have an overall look at the car for any suspicious (chop shop) type stuff. I should be able to get a registration immediately but the bond on the title will remain for three years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Wishing you good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Sounds like Washington. After October this year, I'll have one year before the car is officially in my name. Which is fine, as long as my grandpa is living and lost title doesn't show up in my uncle's hand. You should have nothing to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 Surprise in the mail today..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 Surprised is right. I am only 10 miles away from that place an I never knew it was there! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 48 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said: Surprised is right. I am only 10 miles away from that place an I never knew it was there! Seems like a good guy! Very responsive and helpful via email and phone. I'll let y'all know how good the kit and instructions are next week. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 That guy in Georgia sells clean cars! See yellow highlight... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 "No Theft History" eh? That's a joke. You apparently didn't tell him what you paid for it! Congrats on passing the examination. So now you get to hold your breath for what, three years, to see if anyone files a theft claim. Good, go ahead and get her all fixed up and I'll be up to take her back. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 2 minutes ago, MrEarl said: "No Theft History" Good, go ahead and get her all fixed up and I'll be up to take her back. Hmmm looks like it's time to end the project thread.... HA HA HA HA HA 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 (edited) Front brake wheel cylinders and drums are shot! At $122 per drum, I might go discs. I'm tired of dealing with old crap. Edited May 27, 2017 by wndsofchng06 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fr. Buick Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 Drums, I got you drums. PM me... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 if you think old crap is expensive just wait to see what a full disc conversion will cost. (and with not a lot of gain, drums have been stopping these cars fine for years) I would strongly recommend you rethink, keep it simple and go with original and actually Roadmaster drums and backing plates as they are wider than the small series. And you are welcome to come down to Georgia and pull a set of those at NC if you'd like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 Just read a months worth of posts in this thread. Good call on the radiator shop Lamar! I think the refund on recycled brass could be nearly $50 bucks, that would help bring the radiator cost down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 5 hours ago, MrEarl said: if you think old crap is expensive just wait to see what a full disc conversion will cost. (and with not a lot of gain, drums have been stopping these cars fine for 67 years) I would strongly recommend you rethink, keep it simple and go with original and actually Roadmaster drums and backing plates as they are wider than the small series. And you are welcome to come down to Georgia and pull a set of those at NC if you'd like. A word of caution about the Roadmaster brake shoes - they don't make replacements for them over the counter with the correct metal shoe. So if you go that route, you need some original shoes to be sent off to be relined. Disc brakes have their place, though. They are expensive to set up (mostly the cost of the kit), you won't see any real gains performance wise, but all the parts are readily available cheap over the counter. Drum breaks are self energizing, which does two things: 1. stops you faster, 2. heats up faster without a vent to atmosphere. Drums also put pressure to the circumference of the wheel, where discs clamp down at different radii, making them less effective the closer they get to the hub. Discs directly vent to atmosphere, though, so while you may stop the same as drums, you can stop more often without brake fade. You also don't have to spend a lot of money to send the pads to be relined and can buy the best pads over the counter. I did a thread a while while back that compared the cost of the disc kit to refurbishing your drum setup. I think the discs still came in under when you factor in shoes being sent out for relining, spring kits are $20+ these days, front wheel cylinders are $20+ these days, new drums if you can't find old ones are $120+ each, plus the regrind since they come oblonged sometimes. Even new wheel bearings are cheaply made and just as expensive, though you can probably repack the original ones and be on your way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 For me, time and expense I would stay drum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 If you want disc brakes, then you should have them. But please document a safe and effective install of a complete system on a 55. And don't believe Scarebird when they tell you that you can just use your existing single master cylinder with no other modifications. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 27, 2017 Author Share Posted May 27, 2017 (edited) Ok. After lots of drinking last night and nursing my hangover today, I'm coming back to my senses...... got plenty of front drums now, and should have more fronts and rear on the way this summer thanks to father buick. Ordering wheel cylinders since not one of the 8 I have are any good. Edited May 28, 2017 by wndsofchng06 (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 14 hours ago, old-tank said: And don't believe Scarebird when they tell you that you can just use your existing single master cylinder with no other modifications. This is really important for future readers. Modern disc brakes need no more than 2lbs of residual pressure in line or they will prematurely clamp the rotor. The stock system is around 10lbs residual pressure, to keep the wheel cylinders primed for expansion and also to alleviate drain back to the master cylinder. Also brake calipers have larger reservoirs in comparison to wheel cylinders, and require more pedal movement to achieve safe braking. Think of how far the pedal moves on a modern car, then drive your 50s Buick - not a whole lot of pedal! The stock system may not have enough throw to completely pressurize the calipers to stop safely. Just make sure your drums are round and true and they will stop you right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 So I was going to rebuild my fuel pump today. I pulled out the stash and noticed one is different....hmm not sure what that came off . see top center pump with the shorter lever? Anyhow, got my little work area set up, kitchen table of course. Took out the very good instructions provided by Hal, read them, and realized I'd need a press, which I don't have. I've put the pump and kit in a box, on its way to NY and Hal can rebuild it for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 1 hour ago, wndsofchng06 said: and realized I'd need a press, which I don't have. For what? I have rebuild many with only hand tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 The instructions say the rod in the center must be pressed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Use a drift punch and a mallot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: The instructions say the rod in the center must be pressed out. Remove or grind off the 'keepers' on one end and tap out. I guess you could press it out with a vise if you need to waste time . The service manual has the best description. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 Hmmmm grinding parts off sounds risky. It's packed up, plus he givess a two year guarantee. I've got enough stuff to mess up with brakes and such. ?? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted May 29, 2017 Share Posted May 29, 2017 I sent mine in for core and had a ready to go shipped back. I did this after getting the wrong kit from our usual suppliers. I did not want to fool around with it any longer. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 Waiting for the fuel pump and bake parts, so I decided to replace the broken grille half and dagmar. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 Does anyone have a recommendation on where to take the drums to be turned? I know my local O'Reilly turns drums, but I'm certain if I show up with 60 year old drums, they won't have a dang clue, and if they can't find the specs, likely won't take the liability in turning them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fr. Buick Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Find a funky old place on the poor wide of town, with a mechanic who is older. He'll know what to do. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 5 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said: Does anyone have a recommendation on where to take the drums to be turned? I know my local O'Reilly turns drums, but I'm certain if I show up with 60 year old drums, they won't have a dang clue, and if they can't find the specs, likely won't take the liability in turning them. Matt, for what it's worth, I did my turning at OReilly's. If they're kids, you can talk them into doing anything. Usually they look for a bevel on the inside edge as an indicator of how much meat is left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 3 hours ago, Fr. Buick said: Find a funky old place on the poor wide of town, with a mechanic who is older. He'll know what to do. I use a brake/clutch place. They turn the drums, reline the shoes (use oversize if needed) and arc the shoes to fit the drums (very little adjustment needed after initial break in). Most places want to reject a drum if worn over 0.060, but my local place is a little more lenient and say that the old Buick drums tolerate more oversize. Get a brake drum caliper and select your best drums; then use it to set the shoes before replacing the drum. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 30, 2017 Author Share Posted May 30, 2017 Grille is back in place...whew! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Bumper back in place. Whew! I know it's hard to see the difference. But I can tell. Actually one dagmar is About 3/16" proud of the other and my eye catches it every time! Drives me crazy! But I've spent two days adjusting, with no luck... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 basic bumper and/or supports are probably tweaked 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 1 minute ago, old-tank said: basic bumper and/or supports are probably tweaked Silence! I won't hear it! ?? I'm kidding but I am pretending it is fine as I dont want my OCD to make me pull the whole djmn car apart! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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