fh4ever Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 I know your a little hesitant to put it on jack stands and run it, but that could clue you in too. I do it, but me or someone else is in the car in case we need to hit the brakes. I would imagine the u-joint bolts sandwich things tight so the holes would not be out of round unless you had a loose bolt. If its the drive line vibrating and not a wheel, my bet is the hundred year old rubber has failed in the joint. But let's hope it's a wheel instead!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 I will get it up on stands and check wheels, bolts and shaft and then maybe try to run it if I can get someone other than my wife to sit in it. She does not like the mechanical part of old cars. I'll. Let you all know what I find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted April 16, 2017 Share Posted April 16, 2017 4 hours ago, SC38DLS said: Spinneyhill the vibration came on suddenly-- I've put 1200 - 1500 miles on the car this last year or so and it was very smooth. I checked to see if I lost a balance weigh on one or more wheels but can not see any marks where one may be missing. I have thought of pulling all 4 and having them rebalanced. Talked with a tire guy and he did not think it would be that if I could not see a missing weight. If you think switching the wheels around I'll give it a try. Should I do all 4 or just 2? Something changed suddenly. A balance weight could have come off. Could a bolt have finally come loose enough somewhere? If it were drive train u-joint failing I would expect that to come on gradually, unless a bolt has come loose. I think change one thing at a time else you won't know what the problem was. Can you put the spare on one corner at a time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 I'll try the one tire at a time. I don't see any unusual wear on any of the tires but maybe it is because I have not driven it much with this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 Bummer it's the rear universal!!! Switch tires around Took it for a test drive and same thing. Put it up on jack stands and got under it. Could not wiggle the drive shaft. I pulled it back a little and it moves side to side about a half inch each direction. What could I expect from 78 year old rubber! Now the parts hunt starts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 Here's what it looks like pulled back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 (edited) Has anyone switched this rubber universal to a standard needle type universal? If so do you know the parts used? I would assume you had to have a new drive shaft made up? Any help will be appreciated. Dave S Edited April 18, 2017 by SC38DLS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 Ahh what bad luck. I hope someone has a conversion kit for this. I am still new to this site and dont know all the suppliers and their capabilities, but Dave Thibeault helped me locate some parts, give him a try. Also RBK might can help. Maybe someone can rebuild them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 My Pontiac had "Mechanics U joints". Totally unavailable and un repairable. I cut the yokes off the driveshaft and the ears off the transmission and differential yokes. Installed regular spicer u joints like many Ford and Chevs used. The local transmission and driveshaft shop cut two old yokes they had and in two days I had a vibration free driveshaft. Fifty years later still excellent. Just have been repacking the joints every 30,000 miles or so. I should have hunted for crosses with grease nipples I guess. Good luck and vibrationless driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 Took the whole thing out and going to a drive shaft repair shop tomorrow to see what they can do. Will let you know outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 19, 2017 Author Share Posted April 19, 2017 The shop thinks they can build one that will replace the broken u joints with modern ones. They need to find yokes with the same spline pattern and count. I just hope it doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I will get part numbers of what works and post them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 The new cardan u joint will be better. I hope they can find the same spline yokes. If not, they might could saw your splined hub off and weld it to the new joint. We did that back in the 70's before parts became more available. Hopefully they can get you going soon. Post pics so we gearheads can see what was done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cowtown Commander Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 I'd talk to Jerry Kurtz - he can probably get you the transmission and rear end "yokes" you need. I know Studebaker International had the transmission piece a couple of years ago. I think I have a drive shaft from a 38 with standard trans. But shipping might be nearly as much as having one made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 20, 2017 Author Share Posted April 20, 2017 Got the splines off and taking my it in tomorrow. Will post pics of the shaft and splines once it is done. I will try and get part numbers for the splines and universals and post that with length of shaft. The fellow at the shop thought it was doable but would not commit until he sees the splines. He said he likes a challenge and has done a few other antique cars that had different set ups than normal. So I have hope. I will check with SI but have no idea who or how to get in touch with Jerry Kurtz. I just got into Studebaker's about two years ago when I purchased this State Commander. Had Austin Healys, MG's and a 49 Ford F3 pickup prior to this one. Had to give them up because of a bad back. Thanks for the help it is appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted April 20, 2017 Share Posted April 20, 2017 Jerry is Vice President of the Antique Studebaker Club. Ask the www and it will take you to his photograph and email address on the Club's web site. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Thanks Spinneyhill I will check it out. Dave S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 27, 2017 Author Share Posted April 27, 2017 Just heard from the drive shaft shop. They have found two yokes that match mine and will fit a standard universal. They ordered them & I will post part numbers as soon as I get them. I will install them then measure for the shaft length that he will then make to size. Any one need an old shaft I will have one available but it will need universals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 good! sounds like you will be back on the road soon! I wonder how many studes used that type of u-joint...it resembles the old "rag joint" used on steering boxes. I replaced my '39 u-joints recently and to my surprise they were the common 1310 series u-joints used in majority of rear wheel drive cars thru today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 10 hours ago, fh4ever said: good! sounds like you will be back on the road soon! I wonder how many studes used that type of u-joint...it resembles the old "rag joint" used on steering boxes. I replaced my '39 u-joints recently and to my surprise they were the common 1310 series u-joints used in majority of rear wheel drive cars thru today. The amazing thing is a lot of the new cars are using a universal very similar to mine. Mercedes has used one like it for a few years. Studebaker was just ahead of the times in many ways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 I learned something today....I just googled it (your style joint) and its called GUIBO.....seems Mercedes and BMW does use them. I only seen them in steering applications and on an early Triumph axle half shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC38dls Posted May 3, 2017 Author Share Posted May 3, 2017 (edited) Got the yokes today here are a couple pics of them and the spicer part number. They are not easy to get them back in the trans and differential. Will post pic of shaft when it is done. Edited May 3, 2017 by SC38DLS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fh4ever Posted May 8, 2017 Share Posted May 8, 2017 To replace the rear tranny seal on mine, I had to use a puller to get the yoke off. To get it back on, I heated the yoke in an oven before installing...even then it was tight... but I got it on far enough the nut could pull it on without hammering it. good luck with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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