89 Daytona SMEC

[Budtee]

I have an 89 TC 8v.  Is there any downside to using the 89 Daytona SMEC?  Is it a simple install that requires no other modifications? I am in South Texas now and there are a lot of pull-a-part yards that I don't have back home.  From other posts I got a part no. 5235069.   Is that the only one to look for?

[Mopargary]

The part number 5235069 that you posted also interchanges with

Chrysler	LeBaron	1989	4 Cyl 2.2L, 4 Cyl 2.5L
Dodge	Daytona	1989	4 Cyl 2.2L, 4 Cyl 2.5L
Dodge	Lancer	1989	4 Cyl 2.2L, 4 Cyl 2.5L

 

The ECM part number for a 1989 TC 2.2 Turbo (non California model) is 5234124.

Be sure the wiring & connections are all the same & it all matches up before you try it.

Its almost a crapshoot on used ECMS. Some work but a lot don't. 

FYI: Most salvage yards, dealers, jobber stores do not take back electrical items. 

Good Luck, Mopargary

 

Edited March 27, 2017 by Mopargary (see edit history)

[Budtee]

Thanks Gary.  I guess I didn't word my questions properly.  I wanted to know whether the 89 Daytona Shelby SMEC upgrade was worthwhile.  My car is running fine now. From previous posts I gather that the Daytona Shelby SMEC would give me better performance by increasing the turbo boost. It seems like that is the first and easiest step to improve performance.  However, it has less than 11 K miles and I don't want to do anything that might damage it.

 

1. Is it a "plug-and-play" type installation?

2. Could there be harm resulting from this change?

3. Are there any other SMECs that would give the performance improvement and are they a PNP installation?

 

Any advise would be appreciated.

[Reaper1]

It won't be an "upgrade", really. If you try to use an "auto computer" from an '89 Shelby, that's a 2.5 TI computer. It'll run the car, but it'll drink gas and not run all that well. If it's a "TII" computer, it's still not *technically* right as those are for a manual transmission car and they have a few idiosyncrasies that, while almost never a real issue, can have an affect on drivability. It will hold a higher boost level under WOT conditions longer (12psi vs 10psi IIRC).

 

If you want to get a little better performance, set your base timing to 12* and take the restrictor out of the wastegate line by the solenoid. The timing will net you a bit more mid range and part throttle and the restrictor increases boost response, but not boost level. There are ways to increase boost level manually that are within the computer's control limits and won't hurt the engine, but that's for a different discussion. 

[Budtee]

That sounds like a good place to start.  I will try the timing change and the remove the restrictor as soon as I get home.  Thanks!

[Guest EmmettTC]

A ball/spring type manual boost controller works wonders for the TII, and is fairly easy to install (2 hours max). It will significantly decrease your spool time and allow max boost to be held. When properly set with a boost gauge, I'm able to reach and hold 14.5 psi from 3000 rpm all the way to the line. 

[Budtee]

Thanks Emmett.  Where can I get information on a ball/spring type manual boost controller?

[Budtee]

Reaper1 - I just got back and looked for the restrictor near the waste gate solenoid.   I have the service manual and was able to locate the waste gate solenoid. A scan page showing the solenoid is enclosed. I also enclose a couple of pictures of my waste gate solenoid.  Where is the restrictor?  The two small vacuum lines go into a loom that goes towards the left side of the engine.

Scan_Doc0027.pdf

[Reaper1]

I don't see it in that picture. My own car had the vacuum system all mucked up when I got it, but it was mostly stock, so I was able to return it to a stock configuration (rare for me as I almost never run a stock vacuum system). However, I don't know that everything was in the stock location. I *think* the hard lines do eventually transition to a soft line. Look there. The diagram calls it an "orifice". It theoretically should be somewhere between the solenoid and the wastegate can...if it's still there.

[89TC-16V]

The stock 89 t2 2.2l 5spd smec from a daytona shelby is the upgrade as 5spd intercooled 2.2ls had 174hp,  the tc is detuned to 160hp via the computer,  i believe its only 10psi,  to help the transmission survive longer

[Hemi Dude]

I have read a lot of replies here, the fact is that you can use most any SMEC that you can find from an 88 or 89 Turbo 4 cylinder mopar. What the result would be will be different one to the next.

The one you specify from the 5 speed Shelby will plug right into your TC as well. I have one in my 89 TC that came from just such a Daytona. If you get to pull the SMEC from the car itself, look to see if the Daytona has a 2 relay setup as pictured above or a 3 relay pack.

The additional relay is for EGR which you do NOT have to hook up since your TC does not have EGR, but you need to connect the electrical connector, which IS there on your car, to the relay so the computer can 'see' the relay electrically.

Otherwise you will get the 'check engine' light to be on at all times. With the electrical connector connected, you will fool the Daytona computer and it will actually operate the relay though nothing will happen.  I hope you understand. 

[Budtee]

Thanks Hemi!  Is the change from stock to  a SMEC from a 5 speed Shelby worthwhile?  I didn't see the "pictured above" .

[Hemi Dude]

On 5/16/2017 at 6:54 AM, Budtee said:

Thanks Hemi!  Is the change from a stock SMEC to a SMEC from a 5 speed Shelby worthwhile?  I didn't see the "pictured above" .

That is precisely what I did on my TC. Did you not insert the 2 pictures of the relays above?

However I was making the change from the 3 speed automatic to the 5 speed from that Dodge Daytona. It does not make any difference that yours remains an automatic.

The transaxle on your TC is totally Hydro/Mechanical. It is not functionally connected to the computer except for the distance sensor (which is also on the 5 speed) and the neutral safety switch circuit, which you may have to modify. You may find that your engine would start in any gear, so be cautious of that.

I did the modification on my TC back in the 1990s, so don't remember all the small details.

[ajakeski]

If you run a five speed 2.2 TII SMEC your idle will be 800rpm instead of 900. A 2.5 TI SMEC will run poorly. The cals differ in spark and fuel curves between 2.2 and 2.5.

You can socket any turbo SMEC and burn a custom cal to an EPROM to install in the socket. There is a lot of information on the subject here: http://www.boostbutton.com/turbonator_wiki/doku.php

 

A Rob Lloyd did great things with code for 2.2 and 2.5 turbo engines. He was nice enough to make it all open source. All you need to do is read, buy a burner and a solder iron.

 

http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?85-ECU-Code-Repository

 

At the link directly above, you'll find the Boost Button stage cals. There is a Stage II SMEC cal for the 2.2 auto. I'm running that in my TC. It works well in a stock car with the stock turbo, exhaust etc. Stages III and beyond require upgrades to the fuel system, MAP sensor etc. 

 

 

 

 

[marty14]

from the 1989 part book G body SBEC:

 

05234940 2.5 Eng. Man. Trans., TBI
05234942 2.5 Eng. Man. Trans. Calif.
05234932 2.5 Eng. Auto. Trans.
05234936 2.5 Eng. Auto. Trans. Calif.
05234537 2.5 Eng. Man. Trans. Turbo
05234531 2.5 Turbo, Auto. Trans. Calif. (Up To 10-6-88)
05235107 (Aft. 10-6-88)
05234553 2.2 Turbo 2, Man. Trans., (Up To 10-6-88)
05235069 (Aft. 10-6-88)
05234525 2.5 Turbo, Auto. Trans. (Up To 10-5-88)
05235101 (Aft. 10-5-88)
05234555 Turbo, Man. Trans. Calif.
05234253 Turbo 11, Man. Trans. Calif.
05234543 2.5 Turbo, Man. Trans. Calif. (Up To 2-2-89)

05235119 (Aft. 2-2-89)

 

 

same year but the J body:

 

05234932 2.5 Eng. Auto. Trans.

05234936 2.5 Eng. Auto. Trans. Calif.
05234940 2.5 Eng. Man. Trans.
05234942 2.5 Eng. Man. Trans. Calif.
05234531 Turbo, Auto. Trans. Calif. (Up To 10-6-88)
05235107 (Aft. 10-6-88)
05234525 Turbo 1, Auto. Trans. (Up To 10-5-88)
05235101 (Aft. 10-5-88)
05234553 Turbo 11, Man. Trans. (Up To 10-6-88)
05235069 (Aft. 10-6-88)
05234555 Turbo 11, Man. Trans. Calif.
05234551 2.5 Eng. Man. Trans., EUROPE
05235041 (Aft. 12-1-88)
05234537 2.5 Eng. Turbo. Man. Trans. (Up To 9-30-88)
05235113 (Aft. 9-30-88)
05234543 2.5 Eng. Turbo, Man. Trans. Calif. (Up To 2-2-89)
05235119 (Aft. 2-2-89)
05234549 2.5 Eng. Auto. Trans., EUROPE

 

 

same but the TC:

 

05234124 Turbo 11
05234126 Turbo 11, Auto. Trans. Calif.
05233984 2.5 Eng. Auto. Trans.

04425209 SINGLE MODULE ENGINE CONTROL (16 valve)

 

 

there will be lots of superseded #s for these also 

Edited June 1, 2017 by marty14 (see edit history)

[Hemi Dude]

Look, you have so many choices to choose from now. Are you searching for one in the salvage yards or what?

[Budtee]

Hemi, 

At this point I am thoroughly confused. The car is running OK.   I don't think that the turbo lag is too excessive, but I would like to get it to spool up quicker and perhaps get a little more boost.

Reaper 1's suggestion about a restrictor in the vacuum line sounded promising so I did not check the yards for a SMEC from a 5 speed Shelby before I left Texas.(Lots of pick-a-part yards there.)  I have not located the restrictor yet. I think that I can find it behind the valve cover near the left side of the engine.

The "ball and spring" device someone suggested is, I guess, the Grainger device which I have considered.  A boost gauge would have to be installed be safe.

Ajakeski's suggestions seem a little beyond my abilities.  

 

I would be interested in your thoughts on the best way to go.

 

[Reaper1]

The "best" solution, in *my* opinion, would be a calibration change. The reason for this is that, as long as it's meant to be used with the stock setup, it's literally "plug-n-play", and about the safest way to gain what you are looking for. There's no extra parts, adjustments, etc.

 

There are a few vendors that still offer this service and a few individuals that are also willing to help other enthusiasts in this arena as well. I hope this helps somewhat.

 

 

[Hemi Dude]

Unfortunately, the GARRETT turbo does not spool up very quickly on the 2.2L TC especially because of the overall 'design' of the car. The TC weighs 3350 pounds and is difficult to get off the line.

Turbo boost does not come in until around 2500 RPM. That is the entire reason I converted mine to a 5 speed. Read all about it at allpar.com

 

My 85 Laser, on the other hand weighs close to 800 pounds less, is a 5 speed and I built the engine, a 2.5L with a Mitsubishi turbo found on all the 89 and later domestic FWD cars.

This car breaks traction off the line with ease, and is A BLAST TO DRIVE.

[Budtee]

20 hours ago, Reaper1 said:

The "best" solution, in *my* opinion, would be a calibration change. The reason for this is that, as long as it's meant to be used with the stock setup, it's literally "plug-n-play", and about the safest way to gain what you are looking for. There's no extra parts, adjustments, etc.

 

There are a few vendors that still offer this service and a few individuals that are also willing to help other enthusiasts in this arena as well. I hope this helps somewhat.

Excuse my ignorance but what is involved in a "calibration change". 

 

20 hours ago, Reaper1 said:

 

 

[Reaper1]

When "tune" or "calibration" (aka "cal") are referenced, we are talking about the actual software that is burned onto the chip in the computer that runs the engine.

 

In order for this to be changed you either have to replace the entire computer unit with one that has a different chip in it that has the desired software, or a technically skilled/inclined person can take the computer apart, locate the chip, de-solder it off of the computer board, solder on a ZIF (zero insert force) socket, then have a new chip programmed (aka "burned") with the desired software, install it and go! There's quite a bit of information on how to do this in the Turbo Mopar world.

 

Obviously if you want to tackle the project yourself you are going to need a minimum of the required equipment.

 

I hope that helps explain it a little.