grouchyandugly

1960 Desoto gas gauge inop

19 posts in this topic

(first off, I researched back topics to 2012 on this and found nothing)

1960 Desoto Fireflight gas gauge does not work.  recently bought the car, and it looked like it was registering "empty", but

when I shoved one gallon of motion-lotion down its tube, gauge seemed to show....but....today I shoved some two more

gallons of motion-lotion in and result was the dumb dirtyword cotton-picking nose-sucking finger-licking gauge still

registered "empty" (like my head sometimes).   any suggestions would be appreciated on fixing this, as I do not desire/wish/want

to run out of motion-lotion while in motion away from home.

where exactly is the fuel sending unit on this mopar?

stay safe

thanks

G&U

DSCF2550.JPG

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Posted (edited)

There may be a little clip on the fuel line between the fuel tank and fuel line that gaps over the rubber connection. This clip is supposed to ground the line/tank for the gauge. If it is there, try to wiggle it or remove and replace it to get a better ground. BE CAREFUL as it is delicate. As always, check all grounding connections.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Fuel-Sending-Unit-Ground-Strap-Cuda-GTX-Charger-RoadRunner-Dart-Duster-/230843842227

fuel line ground clip.jpg

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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As Keiser31 suggested check the ground.

Also, some of the old floats in the tanks were made of cork and because they are so old 

the seal coating on them will break down and allow the cork float to absorb some gas. 

This will result in the float not "floating" but sinking.

Even if the float is not cork I have seen where the seam on the float will develop a leak and the

result is the same - the float will fill with gas and not "float".

As far as where the sending unit is I will venture to guess, as I am not sure, that 

there may be an access panel in the trunk floor. I know older Mopars had them there.

If there is such an access remove the screws and the panel and you should see the 

sending unit on the top of the tank.

Joe

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Posted (edited)

Take the lead off the tank sender unit and touch briefly to good ground with power on, careful of sparks. The guage should go full deflection towards full; if so guage is good and problem is the sender or sender poorly earthed, if not most probably guage is bad.

Edited by hchris
add words (see edit history)

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thanks, will search for location of the sending unit today.  hopefully it will be assessed thru the trunk floor.

stay safe

thanks

G&U

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If you cant get to it thru the trunk floor you will be able to get to it from the front of the tank under the car.

Bad senders are a common problem and are not expensive.

As suggested, pull the lead off of the sender and put it to ground, then turn the key on and it should go all the way to full. If it does then get a new sender, Don't mess with trying to repair it.

Chrysler will be the same.

By the way, syphon the tank to empty BEFORE you pull the sender.

I think all you need is a hammer and a drift to get the sender out.

You will be needing to replace the short piece of rubber hose at this time so you might as well cut it.

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thanks.....I successfully crawled underneath and located where that dumb dirtyword snot-sucking sending

unit is located.....wow.....in the front and up about 2/3 of the way......thanks for the info......have not

tested it yet, as I was running here and thar checking out the car, temp gauge not working; so I removed

the wire from the sending unit and "hot wired" it, with no readings on the gauge.....tried both positive

and negative on battery.....even turned the key on.....so at this point in time I do not know if I should

replace the sending unit ($25 plus $12 shipping at NAPA), or install an underdash manual gauge,

which i already have 2 (somewhere!!!).....that gas tank will have to be lowered for me to be

able to work on it.

stay safe

thanks

G&U

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Same test with the temp gauge.

if the wire from the sender is put to ground the gauge should peg.

I don't know what might happen to the gauge if you apply voltage, but I don't think it would be good for it.

 

Question, Is this one of those spacey looking clusters? Chrysler made it difficult with those, There is a small transformer thingy behind the dash that goes out.

That piece affects most all of the gauges.

The only place I have found those is from JC Auto Restoration in Lynnwood Washington. 425-672-8324. Jeff specializes in these cars and will be a lot of help to you.

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thanks.....I just now went out and attempted to ground out the wire, when the connector broke loose

from the wire......it was loose already, and I apparently finished moving it enough to break it.....no

problem with me, will connect a new connector up later, after I finish my cuppa 40-weight.

stay safe

thanks

G&U

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I will try and remember to look and see if I have any printed info on this year when I get to the shop.

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I will bet that the constant voltage regulator is the problem as you have more than one gauge inop.

This makes it look easy, this regulator is kinda small and is behind the dash .

 

PIR 017002.jpg

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oh well, it is still better than what we have on cars today.......however, (hate that word), article says nothing about

if gauges are not working; too low, too high, intermittent (like me brain).......will crawl under there and see

how easy it is to find/work on though, give me something to do.

stay safe

thanks

G&U

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1 hour ago, grouchyandugly said:

oh well, it is still better than what we have on cars today.......however, (hate that word), article says nothing about

if gauges are not working; too low, too high, intermittent (like me brain).......will crawl under there and see

how easy it is to find/work on though, give me something to do.

stay safe

thanks

G&U

 

Well it stands to reason that if the regulator is not being powered then none of the gauges will work. My first port of call would be to check if the regulator has power to it.

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me slow sometimes......you are correct in that the (fuel & temp) gauges not working, somehow I got

it in my head that the generator light and oil pressure light are working......but those are totally

different non-connected gauges.  thanks for pushing me, and I will check it out tomorrow.  be

easier than jacking the rear up and checking the gas sending unit......which I can still do if I

need to. 

stay safe

thanks!

G&U

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hchris......got my bright flashlight, then looked under the dash, driver's side & the passenger side.

can/could not find/locate that "regulator".....even checked in the glovebox.....next I searched

in the engine compartment....not there.  there is a voltage regulator in the engine compartment,

is this the one I need to check out ?

stay safe

thanks

G&U

DSCF2555.JPG

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8 hours ago, grouchyandugly said:

hchris......got my bright flashlight, then looked under the dash, driver's side & the passenger side.

can/could not find/locate that "regulator".....even checked in the glovebox.....next I searched

in the engine compartment....not there.  there is a voltage regulator in the engine compartment,

is this the one I need to check out ?

stay safe

thanks

G&U

DSCF2555.JPG

 

 

Nope, the instrument voltage stabiliser would be about the size of your thumb (or smaller) and I would guess it would be attached to the rear of the instrument panel. If you can see the temp and/or fuel guage connectors, trace the wires back from them, it will be close by.

 

I would try and remove, or at least, ease back the instrument panel to have a look; you will probably need to unscrew the speedo cable connector off of the speedo to allow you to wriggle the instrument panel forward far enough to see behind it, oh, and disconnect  the battery beforehand just in case their are some wires that come adrift.

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Quote

yikes.  was looking for something a bit bigger than that......will look again now that I know approx. size of

this dumb dirtyword cotton=picking nose-sucking finger-licking regulator.

stay safe

thanks

G&U

 

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