JanZverina Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 The good news is that I had my Rochester 4GC carb rebuilt by Don Monroe in Tacoma WA - he has a regular ad in the Buick Bugle and does great work - as well as my power steering pump that was rebuilt by Lares Corp. in MN. I usually don't like to tackle two major system repairs at once because it's only more unknown variables to deal with, but my '63 is mobile again and running just fine. The only downside was that after all that flushing and bleeding of the steering pump, my AMP light remained on after startup, probably after properly following Lares' rightful procedure of raising the front wheels and then cranking the engine (w/disconnected + wires to the coil and less than 20 seconds per crank) while turning the steering lock-to-lock to bleed the p/s system of any air. Fearing I fried the alternator, I first swapped out the voltage regulator with a spare I bought in 2013 from CARS Inc., which had a "Made in China" stamp on it that caused me some concern. But the AMP light was no longer on during running, so victory! Options: I can get an AC Delco replacement VR or maybe have my original one rebuilt, or maybe I can just use the Delco-Remy cover from my original VR and change it over to the AC Delco VR? A Google search didn't reveal too many rebuilders still doing this, so does anyone have a good source for that? Plus, does anyone have thoughts on using a solid state (electronic) VR versus the old-school ones? Thanks in advance for your comments. "RIVIVED" (the vanity plate on my Riv) and I would be grateful as we navigate around all the Priuses (Prii?) here clogging up the southern CA roadways! All of them either silver or white. Sheesh! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Jan- why would it matter if the car cranks only, vs just starting it and while the engine running and the car in park, turning the wheel back and forth, lock to lock, with the res cap off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Jan, I found this source in the past when searching the subject on Chevelle and Vette forums. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-1972-voltage-regulator-1119515-restoration-service-/121794460679?vxp=mtr&hash=item1c5b83fc07 They convert to electronic. Anyone that knows me know I'm old school but an electronic regulator offers many benefits and no one knows its electronic because housing is left original. Voltage regulators were visibly date coded which is why the serious Vette, Chevelle, and Camaro enthusiasts look to rebuilding an original. I have heard the original Delco cover will bolt right up to some aftermarket regulators to help keep an original look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msdminc Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) Jan, I got a vintage (non electronic) VR from a vendor about 4 or 5 years ago and it worked worse than the one I originally had. It was supposed to be brand new, but it buzzed and the AMP light stayed on, just like the original one I had. I looked for a rebuilder, also considered trying to fix it myself, and at the same time got an electronic one from a local Autozone to be able to drive the car. The electronic one worked well, and was a lot cheaper than the Vintage on I got. It had the same mounting, same connector so I decided to keep the electronic one and just change the cover. Been in the car ever since, and looks just like the Delco-Remy one. Rock On gord Edited March 15, 2017 by msdminc (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) I would go with JZ's plan. Another option is to stay AC/Delco - Pro. I have good success with these parts. I recently got wires/caps/plugs all AC real. No China import. Here is an authorized AC/Delco dealer and your part: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Regulator-ACDELCO-PRO-C635-/161983275359?hash=item25b6f4a15f:g:KywAAOSw241YlwN7&vxp=mtr Then you just swap the cover with your original. They accept returns if you get a bum part. You pay shipping. Edited March 15, 2017 by PWB (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JanZverina Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 To Rocky5517 - I would guess that the crank only/no start process is recommended by Lares because the front wheels are off the ground to eliminate resistance on the steering gear from the tires. To PWB: I have a C635 on order, thanks. I'll swap the cover. I for one like a pretty original underhood appearance. I'll send some images when I can. Thanks to all who responded! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 4 hours ago, JanZverina said: To Rocky5517 - I would guess that the crank only/no start process is recommended by Lares because the front wheels are off the ground to eliminate resistance on the steering gear from the tires. To PWB: I have a C635 on order, thanks. I'll swap the cover. I for one like a pretty original underhood appearance. I'll send some images when I can. Thanks to all who responded! It just makes for less resistance to bleed the air out of the system, and with the cap off the ps reservoir, if the engine was started the power steering fluid would oil spray anything and everything under the hood, including the underside of the hood ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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