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90 Reatta wheel sensor


jerrykiefer

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Jerry,

I don't know how handy you are, and I don't want for DAVES89 to lose a sale, but these wheel sensors are not difficult to remove from a junked car.  You'll get a bit greasy and scuff a few knuckles but they can be removed with few tools.

When I go to a pick n pull I always look for cars (Buick, Cadillac, Oldsmobile, Pontiac) with the Teves brake system.  I remove the sensors and visually inspect them, test them with my DVM; if they're good I buy them (and they are not very expensive), if not I just leave them.

If Dave doesn't have any just used ones, I do, tested and good.

Stanley

 

 

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If anyone can do better elsewhere good for them. I have no problem with people using alternate sources for items needed.  

 However as the voice of experience on this matter, here is what I have learned in my years of selling wheel speed sensor leads. The ones from the southern coastal states are dry rotted and pretty much junk. The rubber is so cracked it just peels right off and need to be relined before the new "skin" can be put on.

 The ones from the rust belt states have great leads as they don't get extreme weather to dry out the rubber, but the heads are rusted into the hubs. So one has to buy the "knee assembly and cut them out.

 The west coast has good leads and are easy to remove as they don't have the salt and for the most part moderate temperature.However I have recieved leads that are starting to crack especially on the part of the lead in the engine compartment. How long can one expect 30 year old rubber to last?

 Here is how I arrive at my price.

 I buy 1988 leads [they use a mounting bracket and are easily removable] from yards around the country for $30-40 each plus freight. Most yards will remove something like a bracket, but as most yards that will pull them, won't test them I ask for a picture, if they look good [with little or no cracking] I buy them. No returns.Then after they arrive I test them [I have about a 20% failure rate on untested leads] and then cut them out of the '88 mounting bracket. Then over to my friends house to recondition the leads. We start by removing the plug end and all the mounting boots. We install the new sheathing using 8mm heat shrink on the rubber and 16 mm on the plug end to insure a tight weatherproof seal. I pay him $20.00 for each lead he does plus matierals.  The shrinkage of getting untested leads that are dead is offset by the low cost of buying leads locally that I can pull. An '88 lead is about $5-10.00 each. I also buy knee assemblies locally for $35.00 each and pay another friend $20.00 each to cut each lead out.  I don't buy them if they cost more  And then there is the reconditioning procedure and cost I explained earlier.

 I have these reconditioned leads on my Red and Black for at least 4 years in all elements. Each one of these cars is driven 15-20,000 miles per year with no failures. I have never been contacted by anyone [individual client, Reatta parts vendor, or repair shop] with a failure asking for a replacement/refund.

 I figure my rough cost to be $80.00 each including freight to my client. I put little allowance in my cost for my time to look online, call yards, look locally and pull them.

 I sell them freight included for $125.00 each and sleep well at night knowing I am fair.

 Once again if you can do better, go for it, I just wanted to explain my pricing.  

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16 hours ago, Retired w/Reatta said:

Jerry,

I don't know how handy you are, and I don't want for DAVES89 to lose a sale, but these wheel sensors are not difficult to remove from a junked car.  You'll get a bit greasy and scuff a few knuckles but they can be removed with few tools.

When I go to a pick n pull I always look for cars (Buick, Cadillac, Oldsmobile, Pontiac) with the Teves brake system.  I remove the sensors and visually inspect them, test them with my DVM; if they're good I buy them (and they are not very expensive), if not I just leave them.

If Dave doesn't have any just used ones, I do, tested and good.

Stanley

 

 


Stanley,

I got a chuckle about your comment that they are not hard to remove and also glad to hear you still are involved in Reattas. Haven't heard from you in a while.

I have parted out many many Reattas and VERY rarely do the sensors come out of the knuckles. 80% of the time I have to remove the knuckle from the car and then using die grinders cut the cast iron and then break the iron to get them out.

A very odd situation for me was just about a week ago I was in Tucson and there was a Toronado in a U Pull It and I got the sensors off that car. The rubber coverings were very nice so after removing the Torx screws I fully expected to not be able to get the sensors out but they both came out by hand with no pliers to help.

On a side line, in Tucson, I met Roger McCrone. VERY nice fellow.

Edited by Jim (see edit history)
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80% would be a blessing. Very seldom have they come out for me. The one time I can remember is when a Reatta came in at Gibson's 6 years ago and all 4 Sensor leads came out with just a bit of persuasion with a pliers. I also grabbed the Teves unit as it looked like new with white stickers on the accumulator and pressure switch. To this day I think the owner started in on repairs and got to a point and said "That's enough" and quit, junking the car. I still have that Teves unit in my inventory waiting for me to use it.

 Of course because I have such a nice one in backstock I will never need it...

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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Dave I never meant to diss you or your work.  I respect you as one of a handful of Reatta owners who has gone above and beyond to help the slobs like me keep their cars running.  Case in point is your reconditioned wheel speed sensors:  An unobtainium part as new with the native population diminishing rapidly.  You and friends developed a way to recondition these parts.  I think that's great; way beyond my skills.  And the price, considering what you put into them, is reasonable figuring you'll only have to buy this part once for the rest of the life of the car.

8 hours ago, Jim said:

I got a chuckle about your comment that they are not hard to remove and also glad to hear you still are involved in Reattas. Haven't heard from you in a while.

And yes Jim I'm still here.  I can't believe you missed my post re Getting Ready for a Date.

However I just went downstairs to my basement and counted 15 wheel speed sensors that I pulled from Reatta, Riviera, Toronado and LeSabre, all testing good with no cracks in the rubber.  I only remember once when the sensor was so rusted into the knuckle I could not remove it (I am a great proponent of PB Blaster); I also only remember a couple of cars that the lead rubber was cracked beyond the point I wanted to deal with it.   

I imagine it's the climate which up until a few years ago was considered Temperate Marine but now is all wonky, but that's another discussion.  

Wife just called that dinner's ready.

S.

 

 

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No offense taken. I am glad that my efforts are appreciated. My pricing for like new leads are less then the last published price from the parts houses. I have 7 redone leads left and another 3-5 to redo. With your inventory of 15 and what Jim may have, I would say we are in good shape. I will stop searching for them nationally and just try to pick them up locally as I find the cars.  

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