Restorod

[rudys32@yahoo.com]

I am building a 1932 buick 80 series  restorod,I am looking to use the stock spindle   but newer hub.dose anyone know what would fit the stock spindle   (disc brakes  ) 

[F&J]

9 hours ago, rudys32@yahoo.com said:

I am building a 1932 buick 80 series  restorod,I am looking to use the stock spindle   but newer hub.dose anyone know what would fit the stock spindle   (disc brakes  ) 

 

 

The AACA is about original cars, but the Buick Forum further down the list on AACA does have a forum for modified cars.

 

Generic spindle info in the meanwhile:

 

-Early car spindles often have a very long "snout" for the wheel bearings.   That can be solved by shortening and rethreading on a lathe.

 

=some people choose to use spacers behind the inner wheel bearing to allow clearance for some styles of disc rotors, but that spacer shoves the tire/wheel outwards which alters the "scrub radius", and fender lip clearance.   It also adds more load to the outer bearing, and steering components.  Many types of disc rotors will not clear the spindle near the king pin, so spacers are added to move the rotor outwards. That is aggravated by the fact that typical disc rotor design, also places the tire/wheel outwards more, due to the wheel mount surface is outwards more than a drum..  You need to mock this all up when adding discs, as it can cause problems. 

 

Many rodders just slap things together if it fits, as they have no experience in front end geometry.

 

If you don't know about scrub radius:

Draw an imaginary line through the center of the king pin, going down to the garage floor, viewed from the front of car chassis.  That line should intersect the floor under the tire footprint center.  That prevents transmission of forces to the steering components, when a wheel hits a pothole.  If the bottom of  the tire is outwards a lot from that centerline, the pothole has more leverage to turn/steer the tire "out", and you feel it in the steering wheel.

 

.

[DavidAU]

Ask this guy if he can help you.

 

http://www.discbrakemike.com/

[MCHinson]

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. I have moved your question to the BCA Modified section of the forum. Hopefully someone here will be able to help you with your question. 

[NTX5467]

On ‎1‎/‎26‎/‎2017 at 6:33 AM, DavidAU said:

Ask this guy if he can help you.

 

http://www.discbrakemike.com/

 

That's an INTERESTING link!  Thanks for posting it!

 

 

NTX5467

[rudys32@yahoo.com]

Thanks for the information  it helps

[mcdarrunt]

Scarebird offers disc kits for a lot of older cars but I think for a 32 you will need to have the spindle machined to accept races and bearings of the disc hub/rotor. I usually use mid size GM units as these are the most popular and the parts are readily available and lower priced. I visited a circle track shop years ago and learned how to make a super simple caliper mount. One guy dropped a caliper down over the rotor and a second guy stomped the brake pedal at which time the first guy made up a cardboard template. This was transferred to a steel plate and then the plate was cut and drilled. After a bit of tweaking the plate was bolted to the caliper and once again the brake was stomped while the plate was  welded in place. The caliper was then perfectly in line with the rotor and no fancy measuring tools were needed. The mount plate can also be bolted in place rather than welded which is what I usually do but with the racers getting damage on a regular basis welding was much quicker.