1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[pont35cpe]

Gary, seems like a couple weeks since you made a statement, I`ve got so used to checking on your daily progress, I feel like a junkie that needs a fix..  Tom

[Gary W]

I took the kids away for Easter break.  I needed a little break too!  But I'm back, and starting the front coil springs, front brakes and finish installing the brake lines this week!  Stay tuned!!

[dibarlaw]

 Gary:

 What style of lower control arms do you have? Mine are the 1936 style without the replaceable bushings. I had to jury rig mine to be able to get it aligned. I drove in fitted brass wedges as an expedient. I did that prior to my trip to South Bend in 2013. After 7000 miles I have not lost any of the wedges. I purchased a set of new lower control shafts and that is when I found out they were different. I have a later set of arms to exchange that will take the ones with the bushings. I just do not feel like tearing apart the whole front end to replace them at this time.

Larry

[Gary W]

Lower Control Arms:  

Here are a few photos of my lower control arms:  I am going to be replacing the front coil springs this week so these will be dropped to gain access to the springs.  Mine do look a little different than Larry's.

 

 

Right

 

 

Left from top view

 

 

Left

 

 

Left lower control arm at the wheel side.  

 

 

Here's the plan for replacing the coil springs.  I thought this approach would be the easiest option for keeping the control arms aligned.

 

 

Edited April 19, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

Be sure you have enough weight on the chassis to control the extension of the springs so that when you remove the bolts, the springs do not still have enough stored energy to lift the chassis away in an uncontrolable fashion.

 

I hope that is clear enough. It can get dangerous quickly.

[39BuickEight]

56 minutes ago, DonMicheletti said:

Be sure you have enough weight on the chassis to control the extension of the springs so that when you remove the bolts, the springs do not still have enough stored energy to lift the chassis away in an uncontrolable fashion.

 

I hope that is clear enough. It can get dangerous quickly.

Yes this, my car never even lifted the bump stops off the frame until the front end sheet metal starting going on.  With just the chassis and drivetrain, it wasn't budging at all.

[Gary W]

Wednesday April 19, 2017:  Got home from work at 4:00 and worked on the Buick front end from 4:30 to 6;00.  In that hour and a half i was able to disassemble the front end of the car and get all the parts soaking in thinner.  

Basically, I dismantled the front brakes and removed the backing plates, and I did get the front coil springs out without any drama.  It went quite easily.  I have photos to document each step of the brake disassembly and the steps I took to remove the front coil springs.  I will try to post those photos tonight, but every hour of disassembly leads to 6 hours of degreasing, cleaning, wire wheeling, scrubbing, painting, organizing in preparation of the reassembly.

 

My goal here is to have the front end completely reassembled this Saturday morning, so I have my work cut out for me tonight and tomorrow afternoon.  

 

But here are start photos and  finish photos from last night:

 

 

I jacked up the front end and set the frame down on stands, removed the wheels and blocked the rear wheels to prevent movement.  

 

 

Before

 

 

 

After:  Everything disassembled and cleaned, ready for paint tonight!

 

 

This is how the day finished in a short two-hour time span.  My next post I will document in a step - by - step fashion how this transition was accomplished.

 

 

[pont35cpe]

Gary, I hate to bring it up but what`s the update on your busted grille?  Tom

[Gary W]

Hello Tom and everyone else following along.  I was planning to dedicate a post to thank the incredible "support team" out there, whether they know it or not, Everyone who has taken on a project of this magnitude knows how much it means to have people to lean upon when things aren't going quite as expected.  When you find yourself in the weeds.  When you feel like you've bitten off a little more than you can chew.  Or. as Tom asked, when things go wrong completely out of your control.  

So I guess this is as good a time as ever to thank some people that have been so great through this restoration:

 

First...gotta thank my wife, Cheryl, who puts up with all the mess, the grease, the smelly gasoline, thinner, acetone soaked clothes and taking over her quiet room and filling it with car parts!

 

Second:  My best bud, Mr. John Torchia.  John will be 87 in July, has had wrenches in his hands since he was 8 and was the head mechanic for Hertz keeping the fleet running for his entire 40-year career.  He has rebuilt thousands of engines, and has taught me more than any shop manual can ever teach anyone.  With him, I've restored two Model "A" Fords, a 1914 Model "T" Ford and now the Buick. He still takes care of so many cars in our local clubs and he is very well known around these parts.  I am very fortunate to have met him 20 years ago, and I have gained a lot of confidence just by working with him. He's the guy you see in the photos and is an inspiration that we don't have to get old and sedentary.....just keep pulling engines out of cars!

 

Next:  THIS FORUM.  You guys are simply great and I truly appreciate all the private messages that help guide me along.  So many messages come to me directly, (not through this forum), that it would be impossible to list everyone who has chimed in with so many helpful hints, without forgetting someone. But they are all appreciated. (Tom, LV Dave, 37 Buick, Taylormade, Larry, Don Micheletti, Matt McHinson, 39 Buick8.....the list is endless so I don't want to neglect anyone)

 

But the point here:  My grilles got destroyed by UPS upon delivery to Paul's Chrome Shop in PA.  I called Dave Tacheny.  'Nuf said. Dave is great.  Not only did he have a set, he didn't rip me off, he packaged them up and sent them directly to the Chrome Shop to eliminate one more UPS trip.  Amazing customer service and extremely helpful every time I speak to him.  And the guy knows his stuff!  (PS  I got Dave's name from the FORUM.....so there you go!)  So, the grilles are at the chrome shop and getting the TLC they deserve.

 

And one more quick shout out to Waldron's Exhaust:  again, UPS dented up my brand new muffler.  I called Ruth, fully expecting to be told I have to buy another muffler, and fight it out with UPS.  INSTEAD, she said simply send photos of the damage, they'll deal with UPS and my new muffler is being delivered today!  Amazing!

 

I am planning on listing all the providers that I used for the restoration once I'm done.  But enough for now......Back to work!

 

Thanks Guys  (and gals)

[pont35cpe]

Gary, if I were you I`d request a different carrier than UPS for you grilles trip home.. I`ve had it with UPS, just within the past few months here in North Texas any item shipped to me, arrives at the local UPS terminal, they then send it to the post office for delivery, which takes an additional minimum of 2-3days for me to receive item.. Has anyone else had this kind of service from UPS?   Tom

[39BuickEight]

UPS and FedEx both commonly take items to the post office for delivery.  Likewise, they often pick things up from the post office.

[37 Buick Special]

The masterpiece continues. When you have the motor together would sure appreciate some closeups of both side of the engine. You were probably going to do that anyway. Keep up the beautiful work and documentation!

Dave

[37 Buick Special]

Also Gary,

Any chance of some photos where the brake and clutch pedals attach to the inside of the frame?

Dave

[Gary W]

Dave:  Here are some photos of how the pedals mount:

 

 

 

 

Hope it helps!

[37 Buick Special]

Thanks Gary, I know you are busy. Great photos. I am in for a bit of work. The bushings are bad on the linkage (some movement) as the brake rod hangs up on the sheet metal of the firewall. 

Enjoying your postings!

Dave

[Gary W]

Front End Disassembly:  I tore down the front brakes completely (including removing the backing plates) and Removed the front coil springs.   It was all done together, not necessarily brakes then springs, but I'll display the brake sequences together then next post for the coil spring removal.  

 

Here goes!

 

 

The front end project started by first pushing the chassis out of the garage, spinning it around and pushing it back in so the front end was easily accessible.  

 

 

I jacked it up, supported the frame with stands and blocked the rear wheels to prevent movement.  Once the front tires were removed, I was ready to go.

 

 

Ready to start the brake teardown

 

 

Pry off the dust cap

 

 

Remove the cotter key

 

 

Then unscrew the large castellated nut, flat washer, outer wheel bearing and race.  A magnet helps get this stuff out.  The front left wheel has a left-handed threaded nut.

 

 

Using a "spoon" to loosen the brake shoes by turning the adjuster.  It helps ease the drum removal.

 

 

Pry off the drum.  I used two screwdrivers 180 degrees apart to finally free the drum from the shoes.

 

 

The inner bearing comes out with the drum

 

 

Slide off the inner bearing race

 

 

Remove all four brake springs

 

 

Then remove the shoe retainers.  I used a pair of pliers to push in on the keeper, and turn it 90 degrees and it comes right off.

 

 

Remove the brake shoes

 

 

Use a 1/2" wrench to remove the two bolts holding the wheel cylinder to the backing plate

 

 

Remove the wheel cylinder

 

 

Remove five screws that hold the dust shield in place and remove it.

 

 

Once the dust shield is out, remove the lower cotter pins, and begin removing the four nuts that secure the backing plates.

 

 

 

When these are removed, there are two metal felt retaining strips that will also come out.

 

 

 

 

Remove the backing plate and the brake is ready for scrubbing, wire wheeling, degreasing, cleaning, sanding and painting of every component.

 

Coil springs next!

 

 

Edited April 24, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Gary W]

FRONT COIL SPRING REMOVAL:

 

I removed the coils quite easily.  I was concerned with the safety factor of these large springs, but by going slow and careful, it worked out fine.  Just so you know, the right spring i placed my jack directly under the spring to support it while the lower control arm was disconnected from the front crossmember.  When I did the drivers side, I placed the jack on the control arm shaft, between the two mountings, and that position work out very well also.  

 

 

Passenger's Side jack location.  Directly under the spring.

 

 

Driver's Side jack location:  Placed directly on the lower control arm shaft between the two chassis mountings.  I wanted to try this position only because in my mind this seemed like I would have a little more leverage on the spring.  It really didn't seem to matter much.   Once the spring is supported by the jack,.....

 

 

Remove the four nuts, bolts and lock washers that secure the lower control arms to the frame.  YOU MUST KNOCK THE BOLT COMPLETELY OUT BEFORE LOWERING THE JACK!

 

 

All nuts removed, ready to knock the bolts up through the crossmember

 

 

Slowly begin lowering the jack.  You can see the mounts begin to drop free of the frame.

 

 

Lower the jack and the spring literally falls right out onto the floor.  

 

 

Finish the front end disassembly by removing the cotter pins, castellated nuts and bolts that secure the heavy plate that houses the rebound rubber and the front stabilizer bar to the lower control arms.

 

 

Once that plate is removed, the rebound rubber had to be pried off and scraped clean.

 

 

Finally, remove the last couple of bolts to release the heavy spring plate from the control arms.

 

 

The finished project.  At this point, every part was scraped clean of rust, grease and scale.  Everything was scrubbed with acetone using sand paper and a scotch brite pad.  Then a nice coat of POR-15 gloss black was applied.  So nice to get in and out of all those tight spots when it is all apart like this.  Then, many, many hours to wire wheel the spring plates, the stabilizer plates, dust covers, felt retainers, backing plates and brake drums.  All got a nice coat of gloss black.  Then on to the smaller brake parts..... retainers, springs, nuts and bolts, all wheeled and sprayed.  All ready for reassembly tomorrow morning. 

 

Also:  When everything was hanging loose, I used my grease gun to be sure every grease fitting was clear and grease was free to flow through the fittings.  

And:  BE CAREFUL not to "twist around" or "rotate" the mounting shaft of the lower control arm.  If it is rotated, it will affect the alignment of your front end.  It is threaded to make adjustments so just be sure it goes back up in the position it was removed.  

 

 

 

*****  (If you came here from page 54, Post # 1326 "Front Ride Height" and you want to return, here's the link:  Otherwise, carry on!) *****

 

Edited October 26, 2018 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Spent Thursday and Friday cleaning every front end part.  Then painted them and got everything ready for the big Saturday morning install.  Here is the preparation work leading up to the build.

 

 

Spring plates as removed from the car.  

 

 

Everything wire-wheeled clean, and painted gloss black

 

Backing plates and drums also prepared

 

 

Chassis cleaned, scrubbed with acetone and painted with POR-15.  Much easier to get those hard-to-reach spots when it's all opened up.

 

 

All the internal brake parts from one side.  This is after soaking in thinner for two days.  Everything is wire-wheeled clean, then...

 

 

Every part gets an acetone bath to be sure all grease and oils are removed for paint.

 

 

All the parts set up for painting.

 

 

All parts painted and allowed to dry completely overnight

 

 

Meanwhile, I cleaned all the bearings, races and related parts so they look nice and clean:

 

 

Ready to be greased and installed!

 

 

Front stabilizer parts also painted up and ready for installation

 

 

Early Saturday morning.  I like to set up the parts so everything I need is readily accessible.  When I stay organized the job goes so much better.

 

 

This is all the parts to assemble the right side.

 

 

So, Saturday morning, I installed the first part.  The upper rubber bumper.  I sprayed it with silicone to make it a little easier.  

 

 

Once the lip grabs, tip it and twist it into position. 

 

 

First part in!  It is also the last part that required no tools!  My next post will detail the front end assembly process.  Coil springs, Brakes, front stabilizer, finalize the brake system and bleed it and finally install the clutch equalizer rod from the block to the chassis.    Lot of work accomplished in the last few days!

 

 

 

[ILIKECARS53]

Looks like that front end was taken apart once before.  I believe the bottom coil plate was riveted to the lower control arm at the factor.   Even thought you did not take everything apart  and  tried very hard not to disturb the front end setting, I would still get the front end aligned.  Just being off by a degree or  1/16" inch will wipe out a set of front tires.  Just did the front end on a 42 Buick and giving you the same advise that was given to me.

[Gary W]

Saturday, April 22, 2017:  Installation of Coil Springs and Front Stabilizer bar:

 

 

Saturday Morning, April 22.  I started setting up and organizing early so the front end rebuild and the brake install goes as easy as possible.  

This first set of photos details the installation of the Coil Springs and the front stabilizer  bar.  (Brakes in the next post)

 

All the parts needed set up and organized for the installation.

 

1. Install the upper rubber bumper using silicone to help ease the installation

 

2. While the shock arms were still easy to move, I filled them with hydraulic fluid and pumped them up and down until the chamber was completely full.

 

3. Begin installing the spring plate onto the lower control arm by setting the bolts closest to the center of the car first.

 

4. Slide the lower bumper rubber into position into the retainer plate / stabilizer plate assembly

 

5. Install the lower rubber retainer plate, tighten up the castellated nuts

 

6. Cotter pins secured into position.  The lower arm is ready for coil spring installation now.

 

7. We applied a light coat of grease to the top and the bottom of the spring to help eliminate squeaks if the spring moves a little.  Push the spring up into the chassis.

 

8. Raise the arm up with a jack, nice and slow, guiding the mounting holes into position.  We had the punch ready to help the alignment.

 

9. The punch is the most valuable tool here.  Once lined up, set one bolt and then get the other in place.  I had to push very very hard to the outside to align the mounts.

 

10. Once one was in place, the others lined up fairly easy. a little tap helped it get through the newly painted holes.

 

11. Right Coil Spring installed  (Front view)

 

12.  Right coil spring installed.  Rear view

 

13.  On the left side I placed a piece of wood between the chassis and the vertical arm.  By doing this, when we jacked up the arm the holes lined up much easier!

 

14.  Left Coil Spring installed

 

15. A lot of silicone and you can push the stabilizer bar through the rubber mount

 

16. Using a piece of wood for leverage, push down on the stabilizer when all those rubber parts are assembled while a helper tightens up the nut.

 

17.  Front stabilizer bar installed.

 

Now on to the brakes!

 

 

***** (If you got here from page 54, post # 1327 and want to return, heres the link:  If not, carry on! ) *****

 

Edited October 26, 2018 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Step - By - Step front brake installation:

 

Install the wheel cylinders to the backing plates

 

Attach the brake hose to the wheel cylinder

 

Slide the backing plate into position and run in the four bolts

 

Slide the felt dust shield over the four bolts 

 

Place the felt retainers in position over the felt and over the four bolts.

 

Upper bolts use lock washers, lower bolts have castellated nuts and cotter pins.

 

Install the five screws and lock washers that hold the baffle in position over the felt

 

Baffle screwed in to positon

 

Install the plungers into the wheel cylinders and push the retainer pins through the back of the plate.

 

Prepare the adjusters with a little oil and a smear of grease over the threads and over the nipple end

 

Install the bottom spring.  Criss-Cross the shoes and fit the adjuster into position.  Be sure the adjusting wheel is at the right side so it aligns with the adjuster opening.

 

Shoes with adjuster installed ready to be installed in the backing plate

 

Place shoes into position so the slots in the plungers fit in nicely and the retainer pins come through the holes

 

Install the spring loaded keepers.  Mine had a flatter base, then the spring, then the outer keeper has to be depressed and turned 90 degrees to lock in place

 

Install the remaining three brake springs

 

Internal brake parts are all assembled

 

Clip the brake hose to the chassis support

 

Hold the hose steady with a 5/8 wrench while tightening up the brake lines.

 

Slide the inner bearing race into position

 

Smear a light coating of grease over the bearing surface

 

Grease the inner hub bearing

 

Looking Good!!

 

Slide the brake drum into position.  The inner surfaces were sanded with a 320 then a 600 grit to smooth out the braking surface.  

 

Massage that grease into the outer bearing

 

Insert the outer bearing into position

 

Insert the outer bearing race into position

 

Install the keyed flat washer and the large castellated nut.  Remember, it is a left hand thread on the drivers side.  Adjust so the wheel turns freely but there is no movement when you push on the top and bottom.  There should be no "rocking" of the drum

 

Once satisfied that the drum revolves freely, line up the cotter key holes

 

Key it

 

and cap it!

 

Tightened all brake lines, installed the brass block with a retainer clip, installed the brake light switch, filled the master cylinder and began to bleed the brakes.

 

Doing one wheel at a time, starting with the left rear, I pumped the pedal until all the air was out.  Then held the pedal down while the bleeder valve was closed.  I added more brake fluid to the master cylinder before we started the next wheel.  Did all four wheels, checked for leaks at every connection point.  tightened a couple.  I have no leaks now and a nice pedal.  All in all a really nice day!

 

fin

 

 

A recent post suggested a front end alignment.  I totally agree.  It's on the list once she's roadworthy.  Thanks guys and have a good night.

 

 

 

 

[37 Buick Special]

On 3/30/2017 at 1:51 AM, Gary W said:

Gary,

The plate that is cotter pinned to the brake and clutch pedals, is it attached to the master cylinder? I will have to remove the clutch and brake pedals and it looks like the brake cylinder will be involved. Worn bushings somewhere, I think on the shaft that attaches to the frame.

Best,

Dave

Gary W,

Once again fantastic photos. They are going into my archives for future reference. So any concerns using the original washers for the exhaust/intake manifolds? They appear to be flat (like my originals and rusted as well) but the size is good (as it should be considering they are original). Do you think they will allow the manifolds to move? I am concerned about manifold cracking as the original manifold and washers were in my car and the exhaust manifold was a basket case. Not something you would even consider in a running car.

Dave

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

Just curious to know why you decided to reuse the brake return springs instead of replacing them outright with new ones?

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

In my opinion using the original springs is probably better than using the ones today that most likely come from China. Everything made that was original was made at a time when cost was not the overriding factor for each part, at least in Buicks case. In 38 cars like Buick were way overbuilt. The frames were massive, the shocks were good for airplanes, the springs were massive. Everything was made to last as best as their technology was at the time. Hydraulic brakes were a big step up at the time, Ford still had mechanical brakes in 38. These cars are now 79 years old and many are still stock and still run and stop. They can still be used as a daily driver if someone wanted to do that. My point is that they were overbuilt and that is why we still have them. Everything Gary has done to his car will work pretty good, at least as good as when it was almost new which is good enough to drive every day if he chooses to.

[1967 - 1997 Riviera]

9 hours ago, LAS VEGAS DAVE said:

In my opinion using the original springs is probably better than using the ones today that most likely come from China. Everything made that was original was made at a time when cost was not the overriding factor for each part, at least in Buicks case. In 38 cars like Buick were way overbuilt. The frames were massive, the shocks were good for airplanes, the springs were massive. Everything was made to last as best as their technology was at the time. Hydraulic brakes were a big step up at the time, Ford still had mechanical brakes in 38. These cars are now 79 years old and many are still stock and still run and stop. They can still be used as a daily driver if someone wanted to do that. My point is that they were overbuilt and that is why we still have them. Everything Gary has done to his car will work pretty good, at least as good as when it was almost new which is good enough to drive every day if he chooses to.

 

I agree with everything you stated and I would not want any Chinese parts in a vintage Buick either. But are all the brake return springs available today made in China? There certainly are spring manufacturers still in business here in the U.S.A. This is something that might be worth looking into, i.e., just what is the source of today's available springs. Also, when drum brakes were common on cars years ago, I always remember the springs being routinely replaced as part of a brake job. Must have had to do with metal fatigue and loss of elasticity over time.

[DonMicheletti]

If you think about the action that a valve spring gets and compare it to the action a brake spring gets, I think youd agree that the brake springs are not over taxed.

I dont think i have ever heard of a brake spring failing. I'd think reusing the originals is just fine.

As long as the spring isnt overstretched, time isnt an issue

[dibarlaw]

Experience with my 37 has told me otherwise.  On my drive home with it in 1987 from Hollidaysburg to Chambersburg PA, I had a pull to the left when braking. The clutch went out 57 miles into the ride home with 38 more miles to go. Roll back home and then pushed into the garage. I put it on jack stands and started to do some work. 25 years went swiftly by..... When I started to get back to work on it the left front brake drum was seized up. After I removed the drum there were 3 broken springs. All new springs have been installed since.

[27donb]

5 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Experience with my 37 has told me otherwise.  On my drive home with it in 1987 from Hollidaysburg to Chambersburg PA, I had a pull to the left when braking. The clutch went out 57 miles into the ride home with 38 more miles to go. Roll back home and then pushed into the garage. I put it on jack stands and started to do some work. 25 years went swiftly by..... When I started to get back to work on it the left front brake drum was seized up. After I removed the drum there were 3 broken springs. All new springs have been installed since.

 

While I'm sorry you had such a trying experience, I love the story.  It illustrates perfectly how the simplest of things can cause a setback, that can carry on for 25 years.

 

Buicks are heavy.  Brakes heat up, and springs can be weakened by this heat.  If they are available, it's cheap insurance to replace old parts like that with modern new springs.

 

The clutch in my 27-54CC stuck one day before going out for breakfast.  That was July 2013.  I am still working on it (it spawned a host of other projects on the car) and I am trying to avoid having it become a long hiatus as you describe also. .

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

It seems to me that no matter how hot a brake drum or brake shoes got it will not hurt brake return springs. Maybe if the Buick was being road raced on a very long downhill stretch in the Swiss Alps the heat would get high but the brakes would fade before the heat could get to extreme and the car would crash losing the race but still with some good salvageable parts such as the brake return springs!  Also if any wheel has 3 broken springs something strange is going on. Possibly they were the wrong springs installed during a previous brake job. Possibly they were badly rusted before they broke. Possibly they were installed wrong. To break three springs on the same wheel tells me they did not all just WEAR OUT, there is more to it then that and there was a reason that may never be known. 

[DonMicheletti]

Simultaneous failures are always suspect

[Gary W]

Today I got the new, stainless steel exhaust system installed.  It took a lot longer than I expected.  It wasn't so easy getting every clamp and pipe to line up, but it finally all came together.  Then, to the front of the engine to install the water pump, thermostat housing, water outlet and the fan belt and fan.  I'm really looking forward to starting the engine soon.

 

The manifold / exhaust pipe clamp fit perfectly.  The challenge was lining everything else up properly.  I had to use my original Buick clamps, simply because they fit correctly.

 

It's nice seeing the original style round barrel muffler.  The previous owner had a generic Midas oval muffler.  I like the original design under there.  My only problem was that the new muffler is not labelled front / rear so I took a 50/50 chance and installed it.  Hopefully it won't matter much.

 

 

Water pump going back into position.  I use Permatex Ultra Black for my sealant.  A nice thin coat with new gaskets will take up the roughness of the castings and creates a nice water tight seal.

 

Install the Thermostat body / bypass valve unit. I installed a 165 degree thermostat.  Slip on the fan belt.

 

Install the water outlet casting, again with black permatex and a new gasket.

 

And finally, the fan is installed.  I also installed a 1/8" pipe thread plug in the oil pressure hole so I can start it without oil blowing all over the garage.

 

 

JANUARY  18, 2017

 

APRIL 27, 2017.  I'm so happy with the progress so far!

 

Questions:  1. Before  starting the engine, Do I have to hook up the voltage regulator?  Will the generator get ruined if it runs without a load or the regulator?

                   2. The radiator mounts to the front clip.  Besides the hoses, how would you support it so I can run the engine?

                   3. Anyone know the thread size of the water temperature gauge so I can plug that as well?

 

Throw out your suggestions.  Hopefully its running soon!!

 

 

 

Edited April 27, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[DonMicheletti]

2 things.  You might want to install a small oil pressure gage on the oil galley so you know your oil pressure. On my Special, I just mounted the radiator in its "yoke" and bolted it to the frame as originally. The stiff upper hose will be plenty strong enough to hold the upper end of the radiator in place

[39BuickEight]

We installed oil pressure and temp gauges temporarily when we first started ours.  We had a little home made gauge cluster zip tied to the frame.

[Car Geek]

Gary, did you prime your oil lines yet?  I primed mine with a cordless drill with a cold chisel in the chuck.  You could use the long shaft of a straight-slot screwdriver too, but I didn't want to destroy a screwdriver and the cold chisel I used had a nice, wide blade.  Counterclockwise would be the correct rotation direction.  

[Gary W]

Yes, and thank you for the reminder.  Back in post #68 when I got the head on, I sacrificed an old screwdriver and spun the oil pump counter-clockwise.  The oil came right up to the rockers.  But that was a month ago.  Perhaps I'll give it another spin just before going live.  I feel like I'm very close to getting the engine running.  I ordered an oil pressure gauge to plug the hole and measure the pressure on start up.  

 

Today I had a great conversation with Jon, "The Carb King".  He is quite knowledgeable and extremely helpful.  The plan going forward is to forget the Marvel rebuild, and replace it with a Carter model 608-S.  I'll have to do a little work to retrofit the accelerator linkage but I think I'll be OK.  Jon is not a fan of the Marvel, and a rebuild is more costly than a NOS Carter so I'm going to make the change.

[Car Geek]

11 hours ago, Gary W said:

Yes, and thank you for the reminder.  Back in post #68 when I got the head on, I sacrificed an old screwdriver and spun the oil pump counter-clockwise.  The oil came right up to the rockers.  But that was a month ago.  Perhaps I'll give it another spin just before going live.  I feel like I'm very close to getting the engine running.  I ordered an oil pressure gauge to plug the hole and measure the pressure on start up.  

 

Today I had a great conversation with Jon, "The Carb King".  He is quite knowledgeable and extremely helpful.  The plan going forward is to forget the Marvel rebuild, and replace it with a Carter model 608-S.  I'll have to do a little work to retrofit the accelerator linkage but I think I'll be OK.  Jon is not a fan of the Marvel, and a rebuild is more costly than a NOS Carter so I'm going to make the change.

 

I had that same conversation and I am very happy with the Carter.  One day I hope to make a lamp out of my old Marvel carb.  Here's a picture of my modified throttle linkage.  

 

I'd be curious to know how quickly (if at all) an engine loses it's prime after it's been run.  I let my car sit all winter and I never re-prime the lines before the spring startup.  Of course, before my 1st start after rebuild, I primed my lines at least 4 times because I wanted to be certain there was oil in there! 

 

 

[carbking]

1 hour ago, Car Geek said:

I had that same conversation and I am very happy with the Carter.  One day I hope to make a lamp out of my old Marvel carb.  Here's a picture of my modified throttle linkage.  

 

Be careful with the lamp, it will probably blow a fuse

 

EDIT: The above showing my age, it will probably trip a breaker!

 

Jon.

Edited April 28, 2017 by carbking (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Saturday, April 29:  Saturday Morning I spent cleaning out the Marvel, installing the vacuum wiper fitting into the intake manifold, hooked up the gasoline line from the fuel pump to the carburetor, installed the vacuum line from the carburetor to the vacuum advance on the distributor.  Then I cleaned the radiator hose clamps, trimmed the new hoses to size, rigged the radiator on a piece of 2X4 and with the hoses clamped, it held firm.  I simply double over a heater hose to make that connection.  Being I broke my water temperature gauge on the way out, I used the original "bulb" deep in the head, and then screwed a fitting over it to create a water tight seal.  Filled the radiator, tightened a couple of clamps that were dripping, and hooked the battery to the starter.  

 

Thought that was pretty cool to see once all the thick gunk was removed!

 

Here's how I rigged the radiator.  My '37 radiator has four mounting bolts....all four go into the front clip.  There is no direct mounting to the frame.  

 

Beginning to make the electrical connections.  Getting ready for the big reveal!

 

 

 

[dibarlaw]

Gary... We are pulling for you.. Countdown...10, 9, 8.....

Larry

[Gary W]

Sunday April 30, 2017:  3 1/2 months into the restoration and ready to fire up the engine.  My buddy John came over at 10:30 and we finished making the electrical connections.  You saw the battery connected directly to the starter.  

Then we used a set of jumper cables to carry the (+) and (-) over to the other side of the frame.  Using alligator clips, we first made the connections to the voltage regulator.  (My voltage regulator only has four terminals) We were afraid we would damage the generator if it ran continuously without a load or regulator on it.  The wiring was like this:

 

Generator Field post (F) to Voltage Regulator "F" Terminal Through a 20 - 20 ammeter.

Generator Armature post (A) to Voltage Regulator "Gen" Terminal

Negative from battery (via the jumper cables) to the Voltage Regulator "Ground" Terminal

Positive from battery (Again, via the jumper cables) to the Voltage Regulator "Battery" Terminal

 

John and I getting ready to get her running!

 

I am going to attempt to attach video clips in my next posts.  It took a couple of attempts to get it running, mainly because the fuel pump was being a real P.I.A!  So I had to swap out the fuel pump for  an electric pump and once we got that issue solve it was all good.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 14, 2022 by Gary W (see edit history)