1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[pont35cpe]

Gary, you started this project on my 69th birthday Jan. 11 the way you`re moving you may be finished before my 70th..  Tom

[KongaMan]

2 hours ago, 27donb said:

For those who have watched Chip Foose's "Overhaulin" show on TV, if you throw 15 people, access to parts, facilities and talent and a blank check at a car, a restoration can be done in week.

 

I guess that depends on how you define "talent".  Would you want one of those one-week wonders?

[DonMicheletti]

Those shows are laughable!!!

[neil morse]

Those shows always seem to add "drama" by having some kind of ridiculous deadline.  "The car has to be ready by tomorrow at noon and we haven't painted it yet!  And the supplier sent the wrong fabric for the seats!  Do you think we can still make it?"    And they call them "reality shows!" 

[Gary W]

Saturday October 14, 2017:           Headliner           (I'll call this "Headliner Part One")

 

 

Started to install the headliner today.  I'm calling this part one because I needed to get it measured, centered, install listing wires, re-measure, mark center in the car, ........  I didn't want to make any final cuts in the fabric yet until I sleep on it and start fresh tomorrow.  But here it is so far...

 

 

 

Here's the headliner laid out on the kitchen table.  Seven bows, front on the left side of this photo

 

 

First thing I did was fold it in half exactly on the lines the LeBaron marked as center.   There is a center at the front, the rear and around bow #3 in the middle.

Once folded, I marked center on every listing so when I get it in the car I have a reference point to keep the fabric centered and hopefully won't pull to one side or another.

 

 

In the car, I marked every roof bow Center.  I then marked the roof in the back with centering marks as well.

I removed the dome light but put the four screws in place so I can easily find them after the liner is installed.

I also put screws in the front visors mounts and the rear shade button that holds the shade up.

 

 

This may be unconventional, but BEFORE I put the listing wires in their sleeves, I actually lightly hung the headliner along the center lines I marked so I could measure each listing and mark where I had to cut to allow the listing wire to protrude.

I went listing by listing, and marked them 1 through 7, Driver and Passenger.

 

 

Now back on the table, I made the cut in the listings according to my marks.  This is where the listing wire needs to exit.

 

 

A few days ago I pulled all the original listing wires out of the old headliner and marked them 1-7 on the driver's side so I know how they go back.

After marking them, I wire wheeled each one, primed them and gave them a coat of paint.

 

 

I wrapped the end in electrical tape to hopefully ease them through the listing.  I didn't want to catch the fabric anywhere.

 

 

 

Slowly push each one through, keeping the material from bunching up as you go.

 

 

All seven listing wires in place and the headliner is actually taking shape already.

 

 

I folded it accordion style with #7 on the bottom, as that is the one to set in position first, then pull the whole mess towards you.

 

 

Line up Center, pinch all around the wire so the spike doesn't poke through your headliner.

While keeping it centered, spike it over the bows the whole time pulling it taught between the spikes.

 

 

Here is #5 going in.  Keep it centered and tight as you go.

 

 

I'm pinching the listing wire to be sure the spike comes through only under the wire and no where else.

 

 

Keep marching forward!

 

 

So, I got all seven listing wires in place, and put one single tack on the edges to allow it to stretch tonight before I make final cuts tomorrow.

 

 

Looking to the back.  I didn't cut the rear window out yet....  Just want everything to settle and stretch a little.

I need to sleep on it before making the final cuts.

 

 

The front also needs to be trimmed out and pulled tight around the window without creating any ripples......

I think when the garnish goes in, it'll also give it a little "tug".

 

 

 

So there is the first part of the headliner.  Tomorrow I hope to trim it and tack it all neatly to the sides.

 

Have a great night!

Gary
 

[avgwarhawk]

Looking good Gary.  I replaced the headliner in my 54.  Not an easy task.  I imaging  after completing a few it gets easier.  I'm not willing to find out though. 

[Pomeroy41144]

Great Work.  Really enjoyed the thread.  Hoping to see the car at a National Meet some day. 

[Gary W]

Monday October 16, 2017:  Continuation of the Headliner Installation  (Part 2)

 

To continue the Headliner installation:

 

Here's how I left things.  I went into my upholstery kit and realized before I cut anything the door wind lace had to be installed first.

So I pulled the front four tacks out and loosened the headliner to get access to the tack strip under there.

 

 

After 45 minutes of tinkering, twisting and trying to align things, I finally figured out how the wind lace fits into the door jamb supports.

 

 

First, I installed those windlace supports into the door jamb, then attached the lacing down the door opening.  

I installed it with Permatex headliner adhesive spray for now.  It holds it nice and straight.

When the kick panels go in the front quarters it will be screwed place.

 

 

Working slowly and inch by inch I tacked the wind lace into the tack strip above the door.

I really tried to be sure it fell right at the door opening with no sags or twists.  

 

 

Then down the back side of the door opening.   There is a piece of leather stitched onto the lace right by the door striker.

 

 

Wind lace is in, and I started trimming the excess headliner material.  Starting to look nice now that it's getting cleaned up.

 

 

 

 

This piece is going to be wrapped around the metal keeper once completed.  I can't install the metal keeper yet until the upper lacing is installed above the wind lace.

Then the garnish molding can go back in place, which actually hides most of this stuff.

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going slow with this because one wrong snip and the job is ruined.

 

Hopefully I'll finish it up tomorrow.

 

Have a good night

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 17, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[GARY F]

Gary,  Everything is done great. I look for your post everyday.

[Gary W]

Tuesday Evening, October 17, 2017:  Finish trimming headliner around front doors and windshield   (Part 3)

 

 

Tonight after work I worked on the headliner at the front of the car, namely around the doors and the windshield.  First I got the headliner secured at the bows and in between the bows along the tack line, then carefully cut the excess.  I think if there is any excess material it will show under the next welting that goes on.  Then I finished trimming out the windshield.

 

 

First I used a thin plastic tool to jam the headliner into the groove between the rubber window seals and the metal that surrounds them.

If I got any puckers, I carefully started to make little cuts to ease the fabric.

 

 

Making little slits helped the fabric slide into the groove easier.

 

 

Same on the other side.  This groove made an impression on the headliner, so what I did was....

 

 

Once the "line" was imprinted along the entire front, I pulled the entire front of the headliner back down.

I added about 1/2" - 3/4" to that line and made my cut at that point.

 

 

I sprayed a little headliner adhesive only to the metal that is above the rubber gaskets.

Then starting at the center, I worked my way out to the drivers side, then over to the passenger's side with the thin tool and pushed the headliner back into that groove.

Being it was only about 1/2" more material, it all just tucked away in the groove.

 

 

So here are a few photos of it finished.  

 

 

I think with the adhesive in there it will stay put for a while.  Plus the garnish molding has to go over it also.

 

 

It came out nice and smooth.

 

 

I kept checking the height of the staples and tacks holding the headliner on to the sides to be sure the next lace will cover everything.  

But the tacking strip is kind of narrow up there, so you really don't have much choice where to drive your tacks.

 

Now that the front is in tight, I want to trim out the rear window tomorrow and install the package tray parts.

Then I can install the sun visors and the dome lamp.

 

 

See ya tomorrow!

Gary

 

 

[KongaMan]

That thing's starting to look like a real car.  Can't wait until you get the Recaros in.

[smithbrother]

Love this build, don't forget the 26" rims, with 2" tall side walls. hehe.  They would shake your teeth, and jar your brain. 

 

Dale in Indy

[Gary W]

Wednesday October 18, 2017:  Finish trimming headliner around rear windows and finalizing the installation.  (Fourth and final installment!)

 

Today I finished the headliner installation.  I finished the trimming around the rear window, then installed the package tray, the rear garnish molding, the dome light and the sun visor(s).  Slow and steady all the way, but I'm satisfied with the results:

 

 

Today's "toolbox"  The pneumatic staple gun makes the job go so much nicer than the tacks I was playing with the last few days!

 

 

You can see a few "releasing" cuts into the corners so I could start to tuck the headliner into the window gap.  There is also a gross cut of bulk material inside the window frame.

 

 

Here you can see some of the headliner material puckering around bow #7.

 

 

What I did was so pull the tack, pull the headliner away from the body just enough to snip a couple "releasing cuts" in the listing where the wire exits.

 

 

Then pull the headliner down over the listing wire to smooth out the puckers.

 

 

Now nice and smooth, staple it in to position.

 

 

The left side also had some sloppiness back there.  So I did the exact same thing over on that side.

Remove the tacks, cut a small release little by little, checking all the time.

 

 

Now nice and tight, staple it down and both sides are done.  Ready to start trimming out the rear window.

I did not want to start cutting anything back there until the side panels were secure.

 

 

From the impression in the material (from tucking it into the window gap) I measured an inch.

 

 

This is my next cut to remove a little more bulk.

 

 

Again, bulk removed to the chalk line, and I started snipping release cuts to help form the radius.

 

 

Same routine on the other side, slowly and carefully cutting release incisions so the material will set better.

 

 

Back to the other side to start tucking the fabric away.

Go slow, go careful and it will all fit in nice and snug.

 

 

Again, tuck the material into the window gap keeping everything nice and tight every inch of the way.

 

 

Finish at the lower edge and the material is looking good.

 

 

A little shot of headliner adhesive will help hold the bottom piece nice and tight.

 

 

Trying in the package tray and the small fabric covering before installing the garnish.

 

 

Install your center post divider and then the garnish molding frame and there you go!

 

 

Another view.  

 

 

So the headliner is nice and tight and it's time to cut it.

 

 

I installed four screws before installing the headliner so I could locate center for the dome light.

 

 

Carefully make your incision like a pizza.  Find and remove the mounting screws.

 

 

Wire it and install the base.

 

 

Snap on the cover.

 

 

Next I installed the sun visor(s).  Same fashion as the dome light.

 

 

The driver's side looking finished.

 

 

Everything going swimmingly and then I installed the passenger's visor.....

 

 

And quickly learned that the mountings are Left and Right.  I was sold the wrong item.  I now have two driver's side visor mounts.

 

So....If anyone has a nice Buick passenger side sun visor mount......

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Frank Tate]

Doing a great job Gary!  Are you sure you can't rotate the mount of the visor to compensate for the reverse pitch of the pillar/windshield?

 

Frank

[avgwarhawk]

Nice work Gary.   I used an electric staple gun along the edges as well.   Also some small tacks.    Beautiful job.    

[39BuickEight]

Good work Gary.  I will be transferring an almost new headliner from my parts car to my project car.  Hopefully the cuts already made will line up--I don't see why they wouldn't, but you know how that goes sometimes.

[neil morse]

Gary, did you have an upholstery shop make up the new sun visors using extra headliner material and new leather?  Did you do it yourself?  Everything looks great!

[Gary W]

I ordered a complete kit from LeBaron Bonney.  The visors are part of the kit.  I sent my old ones up there and they returned them finished.

 

Can someone tell me how the front kick panels attach.  They are the leather covered pieces next to your feet up front.

Do the heads of the screws show?

 

***  Also...  Wiring the ignition switch..  I have two wires that go to the switch.  One wire is supposed to the terminal "gauge", the other to the terminal "battery"

My terminals are not marked in any way.

How is it wired?  what wire goes where.  

Thanks.

[jvelde]

Gary,

When I put new wiring harness on my '39 I had the same problem, so I put the (+) feed coming from the alternator in the left side port and the (-) feed from the fuel gauge in the right side port.  I really don't know that it makes a difference other than the ignition lever may be up for power on rather than power off.  I have looked again at the instructions I got from Rhode Island Wiring and both the '38 and '39 Service Manuals, and there is no direction in any of them. 

 

Good luck,

John V.

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

If it helps anything my stock switch is up to start the car and down to turn it off.

 

[DonMicheletti]

You want the wire from the battery on the short terminal. The switch contact rotates around that contact, so I think it should always be in contact  with that terminal and the other, longer, terminal be switched (If that makes sense).

Also, the switch can be assembled incorrectly. Be sure the contact block is oriented so thet the rotating end of the sliding part is always in solid contact with the terminal.

Here is what happened when I did it wrong - I had an intermittent where the engine would just quit for no reason. You can see the burned bit on the top of the left contact. This was wrong.

Unfortunately, I dont remember exactly how I determined which is the correct way to orient the contact block

 

I hope this makes sense.

 

[Bill3747]

Gary,

Here's a couple of pictures of the tired old kick panels in my '37 Special.  As you can see, the screws do show.  The top side is just cut straight across and not attached.  I'm not sure if the edge at the firewall is even attached as it is concealed by the firewall pad.  Hope this helps.  I continue to be amazed by your progress.  Your documentation of your restoration will be an enormous help to me in my own project.

Bill

[Gary W]

Thanks guys!  Exactly what I needed!

 

 

 

Here is the new panel butting up against the windlace, but I was a bit hesitant to start making holes for screws until I knew for sure.

 

 

Here's the ignition wiring.  Both the wires with the blue tape attach to the switch.  Both are yellow with red cross-tracers, ;though one is longer.

I did not dismantle the switch.  It is as it was and it worked so I think the internal guts are fine.  Just don't want to mess up the wiring.

Edited October 21, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Bloo]

2 hours ago, Bill3747 said:

Here's a couple of pictures of the tired old kick panels in my '37 Special.  As you can see, the screws do show.  The top side is just cut straight across and not attached.  I'm not sure if the edge at the firewall is even attached as it is concealed by the firewall pad.

 

What about the floor edge? Do I see nails or screws or something down there? Or, are the screws along the windlace the only visible fasteners?

[Bill3747]

I made an assumption that only screws were used on the kick panels without digging through all the crud to check.  The last screw along the door edge is about 1"  above the floor.  There is no apparent attachment along the bottom 6" section.  Then about 1 1/2" up from floor and again about 3" before the firewall pad there is a 1/2" nail used.  Picture attached.  Sorry for the incomplete information.

Bill

[DonMicheletti]

You really cant mess the wiring at the switch much. I think the "out" terminal of the switch is longer so you can add acessories that you want switched on along with the ignition. If you can tell which wire is from the battery, I'd attach that to the short terminal of the switch.

When I opened the ignition switch to check it, I found that the plastic block had wear and there was some pitting of the contacts. I touched it on the belt sander to clean it up, and thus assembled it wrong the first time. I found that the switch from my parts car was worn the same.

[MCHinson]

Gary, 

 

The ignition switch is a simple open/close switch. When it is "on" the two terminals are connected. When it is "off" the connection is broken physically. It does not matter which side you put the two wires on. The important thing is just to connect any accessories that you want to be controlled by the switch to be on the terminal that is not connected to the battery wire. If an accessory is connected to the same side as the battery wire, it will always be hot and you will need to remember to turn it off to avoid a dead battery.

 

On my 1937 Century, the battery wire is connected to the terminal closest to the driver's side of the car and the radio is attached to the terminal on the passenger side of the switch so that the radio is turned off when you switch off the ignition.

[jvelde]

19 hours ago, LAS VEGAS DAVE said:

If it helps anything my stock switch is up to start the car and down to turn it off.

 

Interesting, my '39 is the opposite - up is off and down is on.

[Gary W]

OK...So the wire labelled "BATT" is basically the "hot" wire, and the one labelled "GAUGE" would be the side to attach the clock, radio...  (fuel gauge?)

Actually, you probably want the clock hooked up to the battery side as well?

Edited October 21, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[BuickBob49]

My 39 Roadmaster has a LeBaron Bonney kit, also. (Someone else installed it.)  The kick panels have concealed fasteners.  (See attached photo.)  The passenger side also has a map pocket.  My ignition switch is just like jvelde's.

 

Thanks for your restoration documentation!

 

 

[jvelde]

9 minutes ago, Gary W said:

OK...So the wire labelled "BATT" is basically the "hot" wire, and the one labelled "GAUGE" would be the side to attach the clock, radio...  (fuel gauge?)

On the '39 the left post of the fuel gauge feeds the ignition negative wire and the positive wire comes from the right post of the ammeter (battery).

[MCHinson]

20 minutes ago, Gary W said:

OK...So the wire labelled "BATT" is basically the "hot" wire, and the one labelled "GAUGE" would be the side to attach the clock, radio...  (fuel gauge?)

 

Yes. That should be correct. If I understand the wiring diagram correctly, The "Batt" wire comes from the positive side of the amp meter and the "Gauge" wire goes to the positive side of the Fuel Gauge.

[DonMicheletti]

I think you'd want on the BAT side for power all the time and the radio on the switch side so it is only p;owered when the ignition is on.

The radio installation manual says to connect the radio power to the ammeter. Then It would have power all the time. I didnt like that so i connected mine so it comes on with the ignition. That added load may have contributed to the switch problem I had.

[kgreen]

13 hours ago, BuickBob49 said:

My 39 Roadmaster has a LeBaron Bonney kit, also. (Someone else installed it.)  The kick panels have concealed fasteners.  (See attached photo.)  The passenger side also has a map pocket.  My ignition switch is just like jvelde's.

 

Thanks for your restoration documentation!

 

 

 

Think we could get a pic of your map pocket side?

[Gary W]

Don,  if I understand you correctly, I should follow the wiring diagram and wire the radio to the ammeter to avoid overloading the ignition switch?

[SteveBigD4]

My 38 Special also has the concealed fasteners. The edge of the cardboard kick panels fit into a groove in a metal strip that is fastened to the body similar to BuickBob49's 1939.

Steve D

[BuickBob49]

As requested, here's a photo of the passenger side panel with the map pocket.

[DonMicheletti]

Gary,

I was concerned about overloading the ignition switch since I decided I'd switch the radio, plus I added a electric fuel pump for priming and directional signals - also swithced. I didnt like the small contact area of the ignition switch, so I added a 6 volt relay capable of carrying 30 amps DC. Now all the ignition switch load is the relay coil. I mounted the relay using the steering column bolt right above the switch under the dash. I used the original wiring to go to the relay and a short jumper to the relay coil. Nothing shows unless you really go looking for it.

Here is the schematic - i hope it helps.

Ignition Relay.pdf

[Gary W]

Saturday October 21, 2017:  Rear Roll-Up Window....Questions before installing....

 

First, guys, thanks for all the photos and electrical advice.  I really like the idea of Don's relay to be sure all your auxiliary equipment is off when the ignition switch is off.  Great idea.

The interior photos are a big help. I wish my '37 had that mounting strip....  the finish is really nice looking.  But I'll be using screws to affix the panel.

 

SO NOW....  advice please regarding the rear roll-up window.  I don't know if this is a "MODEL 48" issue only, but if someone can give me a little guidance here I'd be grateful!

 

 

Rear "Roll - Up" Windows:

 

 

First, my original, broken windows were carefully measured and marked before removing the lower metal bar to be sure it went on the new glass in the same exact position.

 

 

The metal was wire wheeled and sanded smooth and a self-etch prime applied.

 

 

A coat of "trim black" finished the metal channel and now I want to install it in the car before installing the rear upholstery panels.

 

 

So, I'm starting with these felt-lined channels that need to be bent to fit the window and the window opening in the body.

 

 

TWO DIFFERENT SHAPES I'M WORKING WITH HERE:

 

1. The actual shape of the window

2. The shape of the window opening in the body.

 

 

This upper rear corner angle is the spot where the WINDOW shape and the WINDOW OPENING SHAPE of the BODY differ!

 

 

I know it's hard to see depth in photographs, but that "crease" is where that upper window angle rests when the window is fully up.

That "crease" is clearly set in the Fisher Body about 1/2" deeper than the outer window reveals to accommodate the window shape.

But if I form the channel precisely into this "crease", the chrome edge will disappear from view.

 

 

Using an old piece of felt lined channel to play around with before cutting my actual parts, I bent the channel around the window contour to see how close a fit it will be.

 

 

So...The front pillar, the upper front corner radius and the upper section all follow the BODY WINDOW OPENING very closely and the chrome reveal is pretty consistent throughout the run.

Maybe a little shimming here and there will get it perfect, but overall not a bad fit.

 

 

Now.... back here is the issue I'm having.

If I follow the WINDOW GLASS CONTOUR, the chrome edge gets buried in that notch inside and disappears from view.

If I follow the BODY CONTOUR, I don't think the window will close properly, or most likely will just push that part up under the body opening anyway.

 

 

So... What is proper?

Does anyone have a photo of a Model 48 rear window so I can compare the chrome reveal.

 

I'd prefer the reveal to be the same around the entire window opening, but I think the actual shape of the glass will prevent that.

 

Any thoughts, greatly appreciated!

 

Thanks

Gary

 

 

 

Edited October 22, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[Taylormade]

It's always amazing to me how these odd and frustrating problems crop up during a restoration.  I've had my share and expect to have more in the future.  I can't help you with this one, but I'm sure the experts will chime in in no time.