1937 Buick Model 48: RESTORATION HAS BEGUN! (Photo)

[jvelde]

Gary, might be something in the Fisher Body Service Manual - here is a link: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/fisher/1937_38/index.html 

 

There is a little in the '39-'40 manual.

 

John V.

 

P.S. I am really enjoying following along with all the others! 

[KongaMan]

Full disclaimer: I do not know the answers to the questions.

 

However, you might look at the inner panels to see if they have hooks meant to engage the "bump-ups" in the body.  You might also look to see if the inner sweepers attach to those panels rather than the body.

 

I'd be a little surprised if the outer sweepers were glued to the body.  That doesn't seem consistent with typical construction of that era.  In later years the outer sweepers were screwed on (short flat heat screws countersunk below the felt), but you'd expect to see old screw holes if that were the case here.  Is it possible that those holes were filled during the bodywork? Or that you received a functional substitute rather than an accurate reproduction for those sweepers?

[Gary W]

Monday October 9,  2017:  Clock and Instrument Cluster

 

 

Tonight I re-wired and polished the back of the clock, getting it ready to be reinstalled into the glovebox door.  Then at 7:00, UPS dropped off my temperature gauge, so I first tested it in a pan of hot water and it works.  But I had to paint the needle white so it looks like the other gauges in the cluster.  Not a tough job, just another thing.  Finally, I got the instrument cluster installed in the car and hooked all the gauges up and wired it.  

 

 

My clock.  The wires are all brittle and the new clock harness comes with the new wires.

 

 

Remove the lower light and socket that illuminates the face when the dash lamps are lit.  Then remove those two little screws to gain access to the internal wiring.

 

 

 

Remove the back.

 

 

I took a minute to line up the new wires to the old to be sure I have them correctly aligned.  The posts are labelled though.  The white wire is ground.

 

 

Now clean up all the corrosion.

 

 

Shines like a jewel!

 

 

I spent time on the case also.  Buffed it up with jeweler's rouge on a slow speed leather wheel.

Pull the 2 amp fuse while you're there to be sure it is still intact and not blown.

 

 

Once the back is wired and back in position, time to rebuild your light sockets.

The new wire harness has two new brass wire ends that you use with all your socket guts.  Keep your springs and insulators.

 

 

Solder on the new end

 

 

And the old socket is as good as new!

Be careful of the side lamp that lights when the glovebox door opens.  It has about 5 small brass beads in it that roll to make contact when the door is open.

You don't need to open that part of the socket, but mine just all fell apart so just as well to clean it all out and now it works perfectly.

 

 

Finished back of the clock.

 

 

Finished front.  Here I carefully removed the chrome bezel and polished it the same way with jeweler's rouge.

I cleaned the glass, very, very carefully on the inside as not to mar the numbers.

The face, again a very easy cleaning and put it all back together.  

I hooked it up to a spare battery and you can hear that winding motor kick right on.

 

 

 

Then UPS came and finally my temperature gauge was delivered.  I wasn't to happy that they didn't paint the needle, but I tested it in a pot of water on the stove and it works.

So I had to pull the old " Nine of Diamonds" trick:

 

 

I cut a very fine slit, taped the bottom, used Flat White spray paint...

 

 

Gave it a shot outside, removed the tape and the playing card

 

 

And that looks much more presentable!

 

 

Remove the "Fuel / Temperature" plate as a single unit

 

 

You have to run the sensor through first, then pull the long copper tube 

 

 

Then seat the gauge in its position.  Matches pretty nice.

 

 

Button it up using the 6 machine screws and you are ready to install it.

 

 

The other day I sat with the wiring blueprints and labelled everything so I didn't have to constantly refer to the chart when time came to install the cluster.

Here, I'm getting the speedo cable lined up, the oil pressure gauge line oriented properly and generally getting a sense of the way things fall into position.

 

 

Using 4  #10-24  nuts and washers, the cluster was once again back home.

 

 

Then, 45 minutes of this.

 

 

Here's the view from the back side.  All I need is the instrument bulbs to finish the install.  That's the high beam indicator hanging down in front there.

 

 

This, of course, was the absolute hardest part of the night.  Getting the sensor, the bolt head and the large square nut through that tiny opening in the firewall grommet.

 

 

Sensor installed and sealed with some of that tape.

 

 

Spark plug cover back installed and its looking nice.  

 

 

There it is.  Ready to get some juice flowing to it and watch it light up.

 

 

So, I think the next thing is the dash.

(Any hints, send 'em along.....  Do I have to install the door windlace before the dash??  Does the dash sit on top of it by the pillars?)

 

 

Have a great night!

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

[smithbrother]

YOU are going to mess around and end up a GREAT restorer.

 

Great work, and photo's.

 

Dale in Indy 

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

Gary, I recommend the Halogen instrument lite 6 volt bulbs I wrote about in the TORQUE TUBE. They made my gauges easy to read, they were made to replace the stock ones in our cars. I bought mine from "THE LITTLE BRITISH CAR COMPANY" online.

 

 

[PlymouthPE]

Regarding the door windlace at the A pillar - the narrowness of the A pillar does not appear to provide much surface to attach to after dash install if any.

The edge of the dash orientation at the A pillar should give an indication of whether it is even possible to install the windlace after the dash.

 

Just 2 cents worth of observation but when converted from Canadian currency about 1.5 cents American.

 

Cheers from one of your many followers!

[pont35cpe]

On 10/7/2017 at 1:16 PM, Gary W said:

Saturday October 7, 2017:  Need some help with installation of the rear roll-up windows

 

If someone out there could please post a photo of how the window channel kit gets installed into the rear window opening prior to inserting the glass, I would be very appreciative.  My car had NO felt or rubber "sweepers" where the glass comes up from inside the door.  And the chrome-edged felt channel liner was literally stuck to the glass, and fell right out so I have no idea how these parts are supposed to be installed, and what hardware is used??

 

 

 

Here's the window channel kit I received. 4 chrome-edged felt lined channels and 8 felt "sweepers?"

 

So, I'm assuming a sweeper for the inside surface of the glass and one for the outside surface.

 

 

The inside has three "bump-ups"....  do they play a role?  Or does the sweeper attach to the garnish molding?

 

 

The inner aspect of the outer surface is just flat.  Is there supposed to be screw holes?  Do you just epoxy  it into position?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  (Photos, instruction sheets...)

 

Thanks guys!

Gary, I`ve done the "sweeps" on my `36 Buick coupe doors and garnish moldings, originally there were roller guides, also the open gap would let a lot of unwanted trash get inside and accumulate at the bottom hold moisture and rot the wood(my car is wood structure). It may take me a few days to take some pics and post. I attached mine with #4 SS sheet metal screws on the door and #4 SS machine screws w/nuts on the garnish, no glue. Both screws are phillips head countersunk oval or flat head. I did this all on my own, not having a reference to go by. My car only has two doors and the garnish, I developed a few grey hairs in the process, you`ve got 4drs and garnish to do and i`m guessing the back vent windows also. You may be silver headed by the time you get them all done!! It`s slow tedious work shaping the curves and getting the reveal just right plus trimming and flattening the end that tucks behind the window channel. With your talents, you`ll get it done, and then probably break your arm patting yourself on the back.. This along with all you`ve done is something to brag about.. Tom

[Gary W]

Tom....any photos or “order of operations “ would help me considerably!!   Appreciate any help here.  Like you, I have no reference.  I did order the fisher body book, but as far as the actual procedure any hints would be great!

[dibarlaw]

Gary :

 My 37 had no "window sweeps" just small rubber blocks on both the door and garnish moldings to reduce shock when the door is closed.

Of course after the flocking of the channel wore away and the rubber turned to concrete. Result, broken window. I used the Fisher Body manual as a guide and was successful.
 When I replaced my channels and glass in the left rear door it did take a good deal of finessing to get smooth bends at the corners. The channels on mine did not go very far down until there was a rubber (now concrete) channel with a flocked surface. This had to be broken out. The new channel fits right into these body channels. It does make for a tricky threading job down through the door. I have not attempted my front windows as that would require the vent window glass, gaskets and then frame to be re chromed.

 With my 1925 Standard engine getting rebuilt. The 1925 master engine in a questionable state and the low # 8 cylinder in my 1937, monies are needed elsewhere.

[Larry Schramm]

On ‎10‎/‎5‎/‎2017 at 5:03 PM, GARY F said:

great work Gary. I like everything shiny.  In the future for cleaning glass use Bon Ami water and a sponge or rag. cleans but does not scratch

 

BonAmi was actually sold under the GM accessories with a GM part number. 

 

I recommend it for cleaning windshields, especially the extra dirty ones that keep streaking the wipers.

Edited October 11, 2017 by Larry Schramm (see edit history)

[Gary W]

Tuesday Evening October 10, 2017:  Preparation and installation of the dash.

 

This is an exciting one!  While I was at work, I used a little fine pumice and acrilustre on all my plastic knobs and pulls to try to clean them up best I can.  Got home around 8:00 and began laying parts out to do some preparation before installing the dash panel. Well, one thing led to another and here I am, three hours past my normal bed time, but had to show the results:

 

 

 

Fine pumice with a slow speed wet cotton wheel.  This removes the surface staining and smooths out some imperfections.

 

 

The next product is called Acrilustre.  It gives acrylic a nice shine and smooth appearance.  Puts a little gloss on it too.

 

 

Got home at 8:00 tonight and got right to it.  Laid a heavy cotton tarp thing over the kitchen island and began pulling parts out of the "parts storage room"

 

 

And the other parts and fasteners I would need

 

 

The knobs and pulls look a lot nicer after the pumice and polish.

 

 

So, I figured I'd do some preliminary build up while the dash was in the kitchen.  Much easier access to a lot of this stuff.

First, install the missing four trinidad nuts to keep the speaker grille tight to the dash panel.

 

 

Build the dash ash receiver.  Run the screw through the inner hole, the front backing plate, then the wood grained plate, through the metal and finally into the pull knob.

 

 

The screw is passing through three pieces of metal at this point.

 

 

Slip the metal trim piece over the screw and screw on the pull.

 

 

Slide it into position and one thing on.

 

 

Install last night's project, the glove box clock into position in the door.  There are very short special screws for this so you don't dent the outside door finish.

 

 

Looks sharp in there!

 

 

Next, push through your glove box lock, attach the locking cylinder with one screw and that's it.

 

 

All these little parts that I spent hours wire wheeling clean, painting....Nice to see all those bags emptying out.

 

 

Attach the lock plate to the top of the glove box opening.

 

 

Attach the hinge to the door

 

 

Again, these are 10-32 screws.  Watch your length if you are replacing with new fasteners.  I'm re-using all the original stuff here.

 

 

Attach the hinge through the bottom, being sure when the door opens it does not hit the bottom of the panel.  It will ruin the finish quickly.  

All the screws are adjustable, so take your time here with all four screws to get the door to line up nice.

 

 

Once satisfied with the fit of the door, do the final adjustment of the door catch and tighten it down.

 

 

Next, I installed a new glove box,  Only two screws here.  

I found it easier to kinds "square off" the upper corners a little.  It just seemed to sit better.

 

 

Grey felt lined.  Glove box stuff is now complete.

 

 

Next, install the wiper actuator.  Remove the large nut, serrated washer and the pot metal housing.

Align the slot with the slot in the dash.

 

 

Once through, simply reinstall the pot metal part, the serrated washer and the nut.

 

 

Then, install the cigar lighter.  I took this all apart and cleaned it all up.

Remove the outer brace that supports it, slide it into position 

 

 

And again, once through, put the support brace over the entire piece and tighten it down.

 

 

READY TO GO IN!!!  I think I did as much pre-install that I can.  (That map reader is just sitting there for the picture.  I have to build that socket in the car tomorrow)

 

 

Out to the garage.  I placed a carriage bolt through the hole where the rear hood retainer drops down.

This is temporary so I can install the radio mount inside and finish all the under dash wiring.

 

 

Assemble the radio mounting hardware.

 

 

And attach it to the carriage bolt.

 

 

 

 

OK..  The only other thing I did inside the car was to loosen all four of the nuts holding the instrument cluster to the sub frame.

Just in case it had to move slightly while the dash was being seated.

Remember,   it's late.  Everyone is asleep.  I'm working alone so I don't have photos of it actually being installed, but I do have ....

 

 

 

 

 

 

This!  It actually fell right into position.  I tacked it in with four screws for now.

 

 

I hooked up the light switch and ran the two screws that secure the cowl vent arm to the bottom of the dash.

 

 

So, I'm ready for tomorrow, when I hope to be installing the steering wheel, horn stuff, and the radio.  

 

 

The woodgrain is just beautiful.

 

 

It's 1:16.  It's now Wednesday.  I'm beat.

 

Have a great day out there!

Gary

 

 

 

[kgreen]

It's 1:16.  It's now Wednesday.  I'm beat.

 

Have a great day out there!

Gary

WOW, a fully documented obsession!  my parts storage room is currently getting filled, wire wheeling and blasting under way but on the big stuff, details are too far off to even contemplate today.  I'm enthralled with your documentation!

[Gary W]

Wednesday Morning, October 11, 2017:  Delivered Front Fenders to the Paint Shop  (And I need a questioned answered)

 

 

This morning I loaded up the Sequoia with the two front fenders and delivered them to the paint shop,  As Bob was looking over the job, he noticed that there are differences in the sheet metal in one area and I was wondering if anyone out there knows the correct orientation metal pattern.  I'd certainly rather get the metal in it's proper shape prior to paint.

 

 

Off we go!  These things fill the entire cargo area of the truck.

 

 

QUESTION:  Drivers side front fender has a rolled and spot welded metal extension, but then it has that other part that is bent up almost to form a clip.

 

 

Compare that to the passenger's side.  It also has the rolled up / spot welded piece, BUT the other one makes sort of a "shelf".

 

So, if anyone has insight on this, I'd like to straighten out the bent one, or bend this one???

 

Thanks again!

 

Gary

[pont35cpe]

Gary, on the window sweeps/channeling. I don`t know why I thought you have a four door, but any way, I got to thinking that your kit only shows channeling and sweeps. Do you have the rigid pieces for the divider(piece between the door glass and vent glass)? There is two rigid pieces per divider the upper piece has the SS bead, lower piece does not, the vent seal is also on the divider which has to be installed before the rigid channel pieces. One other thing, the inside side of the divider has a thin metal piece that will slip upwards off the post, this little piece is usually woodgrained. I`ll try to get the pictures on the sweeps, maybe by this evening.  Tom

[dibarlaw]

Gary:

 I may hazard a guess as my car is 2 blocks away. On the drivers side would be the routing of the antenna cable from the radio to the running boards. The cable then routs under the body to the opposite side. Check the radio information I posted and I think it may show this.

Larry

[pont35cpe]

1 hour ago, pont35cpe said:

Gary, on the window sweeps/channeling. I don`t know why I thought you have a four door, but any way, I got to thinking that your kit only shows channeling and sweeps. Do you have the rigid pieces for the divider(piece between the door glass and vent glass)? There is two rigid pieces per divider the upper piece has the SS bead, lower piece does not, the vent seal is also on the divider which has to be installed before the rigid channel pieces. One other thing, the inside side of the divider has a thin metal piece that will slip upwards off the post, this little piece is usually woodgrained. I`ll try to get the pictures on the sweeps, maybe by this evening.  Tom

Looking back on wood post 407 I noticed the pieces for the divider.  Tom

[pont35cpe]

Oops post 403..

[Gary W]

6 hours ago, pont35cpe said:

Gary, on the window sweeps/channeling. I don`t know why I thought you have a four door, but any way, I got to thinking that your kit only shows channeling and sweeps. Do you have the rigid pieces for the divider(piece between the door glass and vent glass)? There is two rigid pieces per divider the upper piece has the SS bead, lower piece does not, the vent seal is also on the divider which has to be installed before the rigid channel pieces. One other thing, the inside side of the divider has a thin metal piece that will slip upwards off the post, this little piece is usually woodgrained. I`ll try to get the pictures on the sweeps, maybe by this evening.  Tom

 

Hi Tom!

 

Check this post out for the divider build:

 

 

[pont35cpe]

Gary, I must have missed class on the day of that post. The divider on my `36 is twice as long as yours(one piece)with the upper and lower channel pieces..  Tom

[Gary W]

Wednesday October 11, 2017: 

 

(Nine months today since the beginning of the restoration)

 

Today we installed the following stuff:

Steering column / Horn wire / Pitman arm / Drag link

Map light

Transmission cover

Pedal and transmission cover plates

Accelerator Pedal

 

 

I like to start the day with the parts that I'll need all laid out and organized.  

The index cards are labelled, and sometimes I have notes regarding installation hints written out.

 

 

STEERING  COLUMN & HORN WIRE:

 

We started by jacking up the front of the car for better access.

Honestly, this was very difficult to get the column in.  I don't know why, because I removed it by myself and it seemed to fall right out.

We ended up loosening the master cylinder from the frame, disconnection the brake pedal, which gave us more room to finagle it into position.

 

 

Here you can see the column wrapped up in towels to protect the paint from scratches.

 

 

Finally, after lifting, turning, changing the approach angle..... It finally came through.  John is getting the frame bolts started to hold it.

 

 

While it was still loose at the frame, I got under the dash and lined up and installed the two mounting fasteners.

A long screw on one side, a bolt on the other.  Again, the bolt gave us quite a fit for some reason, but finally it gave up

 

 

Once the column was secured at the dash mounting, John tightened up the box to the frame.

 

 

Now in position, I removed the tape that was covering the horn contact.  You can see where LARES soldered a new wire on to the brass contact when the box was rebuilt.

But again, another problem arose at the top end.  The wire is soldered here but......

 

 

It was cut off flush up here.  so the wire is useless because you can't get the spring plunger installed.

I tried running the fine green wire down to see if any of the wire was bunched up somewhere, but that's it.  

 

 

A new horn contact wire did come with the new wire harness.  So we unsoldered the red wire from the column and hooked the green wire to it.

Then, by pulling the wire up, it left the green fine wire to use as a snake for the new wire.

Here you see us hooking the new orange wire to the fine green wire and beginning to pull it down to be soldered.

 

 

Here's the new contact button, but honestly, it's no good.  The "spring" looks like someone just wrapped wire around it and the movement is very tough.

Compare this to the original:

 

 

Look at the quality of the original spring.  It slides in and out super easy. 

So, we made the decision to ditch the new contact, unsolder this spring assembly from the wire and simply re-use this with a new 12-gauge wire.

So again, it's unsolder the orange wire, pull it up and through creating a snake, and snaking the new wire with the original contact to be soldered into place.

 

 

 

 

DRAG LINK / PITMAN ARM:

 

 

Today we're focusing on the stuff on the left side above.  The center ball is already attached.

 

 

My notes.  Again, using the left side where the drag link will insert into the pitman arm.

 

 

Great overview how everything is installed.

 

 

Flashback:  January.  Condition of all the Drag Link / Pitman Arm connection

 

 

 

I cleaned all the gunk from the grease groove and polished the ball.

 

 

 

 

Before I installed the Drag Link, I made sure the steering box was in center position.  LARES made this mark when they rebuilt the box.

I double checked by putting the steering wheel on the column first.  The Buick wheel makes four full turns "lock - to - lock".

So I steered full left, counted two full turns and went under to check the marks.  They are spot-on.

Then I got the front wheels to point straight, and as there is only four ways the arm can go on, it was pretty simple to get it in the correct position.

 

 

 

Attach the Drag Link with the heavy lock washer and large 1-1/4" nut.  Torqued it to 100 lbs.

 

 

Then began the Pitman arm rebuild.  First, I heavily greased the internals

 

 

Install following my notes:  Spring Stop, Spring, Ball Seat.  Keep the neck in the proper orientation.

 

 

Grease the ball and install the spring and dust shield

 

 

Pop the ball into the large hole and tug the pitman arm to seat the neck into the groove.

 

 

Finish the outer side with the Ball Seat, Spring and the Spring Stop.

 

 

 

Following the Buick manual, I tightened it fully, then backed off 1-1/2 turns

 

 

 

Cotter it and call it done.

 

 

 

MAP LIGHT:

 

 

You get a new wire in the new harness.  You have to use all your old guts to rebuild the socket.

 

 

Strip the end of the wire, slip the socket, insulator, spring, insulator over.

 

 

Then solder the wire end onto the wire and pull it through the socket.  Install the socket into the back end of the map light fixture.

 

 

That  "hood" simply snaps into position.  You won't see that yellow wire once the radio is installed.

 

 

FLOOR STUFF:

 

 

Flashback to January with the dash area stripped, transmission out, all pedal plates removed...

 

 

Installed a new gasket and the top of the transmission.  You have to be careful here to be sure those sliding plates line up properly and don''l lose the springs in the back.

Then placed the rubber boots over the pedals that are under the pedal plates.  Then the pedal plates and finally the rubber footpads on top of the pedals.

 

 

 

Transmission cove plate and boot.

 

 

Accelerator Pedal

 

 

It's really starting to come together!!

 

 

Tonight the radio, then the headliner installation.

 

Have a great day!!

 

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 15, 2017 by Gary W (see edit history)

[27donb]

On 10/11/2017 at 10:16 AM, dibarlaw said:

Gary:

 I may hazard a guess as my car is 2 blocks away. On the drivers side would be the routing of the antenna cable from the radio to the running boards. The cable then routs under the body to the opposite side. Check the radio information I posted and I think it may show this.

Larry

 

Has it been confirmed that this was the correct answer, and that neither fender needed rework? 

 

I was curious... 

[39BuickEight]

Gary, what sound deadening material are you going to use?

[Gary W]

Hi Billy!

I'm using the self-adhesive Dynamat on all the floors, and any extra up the sides.  I still have most of the original Buick material stuck to the innards so I'm really just concerned with the floors.

[Gary W]

Another question:  I installed new battery and ground cables tonight.  Nice "zero" sized ones.  I have the ground directly to the engine and the frame.  Why do I get a little spark at the battery when I touch the "+" cable to the "+" battery post?  

Doesn't a spark mean a short somewhere or is it normal to spark a little when first connected?

[jvelde]

Attach the + cable first then the - cable to avoid sparking.

[MCHinson]

A spark could easily be caused by the clock winding whenever you connect the power. 

[smithbrother]

If your car has a door switch that controls the dome light, maybe with doors not installed if It's drawing current.

 

Dale in Indy 

[LAS VEGAS DAVE]

ITS DRAWING CURRENT SOMEWHERE IS WHAT THAT MEANS.

 

[lancemb]

Wow, this is shaping up to be one stunning car!

[pont35cpe]

Gary, here`s some pics of my sweeps, maybe they`re self explanatory. The old sweep (`41 Pontiac) is what I went by for the way the ends are, the swept up end of the bead is beat flat to fit behind the channeling, the end close to the divider post is cut about 1/4" long the bent down 90deg, both sweep pieces(door and garnish)are the same length. I used #4 SS flat head(phillips)countersunk sheet metal screws to attach the piece to the door, and #4 SS flat head(phillips) countersunk machine screws with nut, on the garnish. After the finish(paint/wood grain) on the garnish the excess threads will be trimmed flush with the nut and I will have to notch the wood for nut clearance where the garnish slips down over the wood. You may want to use sheet metal screws and grind the protrusion flush to the metal on the back side so it won`t interfere with door piece garnish slips over. I tightened the screws to where the head is lower than the "fuzz" and won`t rub the glass. The sweeps on the `41 Pontiac: garnish pieces were attached with staples, door pieces are attached with an alligator looking clip that slips on the bottom side of the sweep then squeezed with a pair of pliers, and has a round protrusion on the backside that slips into a series of holes on the turned down lip edge of the door, the lip on my `36 was quite small is why I went with the screws. If you have any questions I`ll do my best to answer..  I hope the inside part of your door is lower than the outside to give you room to drill/attach sweep.  Tom

[Gary W]

THANK YOU!!!  Perfect!

[pont35cpe]

Gary, the "bump ups" is what the garnish slips over to hold it in position. Tom

[Gary W]

Friday October 13, 2017:  Installation of new horn contact wire, horn contact at the column and the steering wheel

 

 

 

 

 

First step tonight was to build a new horn contact wire that goes from the center of the steering column under the wheel down to the contact button.

Being I am re-using the original spring contact, I held a plier in the vise, heated the contact surface while giving the wire a little tug.

 

 

 

The solder quickly melted and the wire popped right out.

 

 

This is the original wire, all dried up and brittle.  Discard it.

 

 

I stripped a new 12 g wire  (maybe too heavy.. probably 14g would suffice, but it went well so ...)

Inserted the stripped end into the barrel with a new piece of solder up in there and heated it up.  In a matter of seconds it was done.

 

 

Un-solder this orange wire, connect a "snake" to it and pull the orange wire carefully up through the column into the drivers compartment.

 

 

As it comes through be careful not to pull your "snake" inside the column.

 

 

This is the reason I'm using the original part.  It's simply a superior part.

 

 

Cut the orange wire free from the snake, attach the new red wire to it and carefully push/pull it down until you can grab it.

 

 

Measure carefully, being sure the spring loaded contact button can move easily.  Strip the wire and solder into position above where the column mounted contact rides the brass sleeve.

 

 

This is the column mounted contact that I repaired last month.  Painted and ready to be installed.

 

 

Screw it in, wire it and the column end is done.

 

 

****  MY STEERING BOX WAS REBUILT BY LARES.  They replaced the upper column bushing with this long-life nylon thing SO YOU DO NOT USE THIS SPRING ANYMORE****

(I'm showing it to demonstrate the next step in the original set up.)

 

So I didn't re-use the spring.

 

 

Next, I got under the car to double check the center marks on the steering box.  Once they were spot-on, I set the wheel on the column being sure the banjo points straight down.

Tighten the large 1-1/4" nut.  I didn't go ape here, just so the nut dropped below the contact insulator.

 

 

Here's the nut installed and the wheel is tight.

 

 

Next, the horn ring.

 

 

Then the center medallion with the "Buick" upright.

 

 

Install the three screws from the back that hold the cover in place.  There is a spring under there also that has to be positioned correctly.

 

 

And now the wheel is finally in, wired and tight.

 

Have a great night

Gary

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Taylormade]

Just keeps getting better.

[KongaMan]

That steering wheel may be the coolest part of the car.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

8 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Just keeps getting better.

 

 Agree!

 

  Gary, in the words of an old trucking song "### put 'em all to shame".  Never again should anyone claim it should take years for a restoration. 

 

  Ben

[27donb]

4 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 Agree!

 

  Gary, in the words of an old trucking song "### put 'em all to shame".  Never again should anyone claim it should take years for a restoration. 

 

  Ben

 

Even though this Buick is not my favorite year, I have enjoyed this thread and the results.  It is very inspiring and motivating. 

 

For those who have watched Chip Foose's "Overhaulin" show on TV, if you throw 15 people, access to parts, facilities and talent and a blank check at a car, a restoration can be done in week. 

 

For those of us with less funds less friends, and full time jobs, it takes years.

[avgwarhawk]

5 minutes ago, 27donb said:

 

Even though this Buick is not my favorite year, I have enjoyed this thread and the results.  It is very inspiring and motivating. 

 

For those who have watched Chip Foose's "Overhaulin" show on TV, if you throw 15 people, access to parts, facilities and talent and a blank check at a car, a restoration can be done in week. 

 

For those of us with less funds less friends, and full time jobs, it takes years.

Part of the enjoyment if not all of it meticlus care in restoring or repairing these cars. The process for some the enjoyment. For some, once you get going you can't stop.

[27donb]

7 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

Part of the enjoyment if not all of it meticlus care in restoring or repairing these cars. The process for some the enjoyment. For some, once you get going you can't stop.

 

There are some, who restore a car and sell it, in favor of another car to restore. 

 

Most friends I have are more interested in how fast a car will go 0-100-0 than the details of restoring a radio face, wiper transmission, or gas pedal.  Instead of rattle canning original hardware, they would replace it all with stainless bolts made in China from the local hardware store. 

 

I am still searching for some original hardware... 

[avgwarhawk]

6 minutes ago, 27donb said:

 

There are some, who restore a car and sell it, in favor of another car to restore. 

 

Most friends I have are more interested in how fast a car will go 0-100-0 than the details of restoring a radio face, wiper transmission, or gas pedal.  Instead of rattle canning original hardware, they would replace it all with stainless bolts made in China from the local hardware store. 

 

I am still searching for some original hardware... 

Too true!