Wth? Gaping hole in new water pump?!

[lancemb]

Check this out...just bought this NOS water pump in Ebay and this is how it came.  Now I've heard of weep holes, but this?   Never seen this before.  It appears someone chopped a piece off.  Any idea why that would be?  It appears to be scrap now...

[Beemon]

I thought that was normal? Except for the ground down part...

Edited January 18, 2017 by Beemon (see edit history)

[1957buickjim]

It is normal, I think. I looked at buying that as well off of eBay, but wondered why the hole was so big. I looked at a spare that I have for my 57 and it has the same hole and placement, not as big, but it is there. I too am a bit confused by this..hope OldTank or someone can provide a bit more detail.

[SpecialEducation]

Yep.  Went through a half-dozen before deciding the first one we had was probably the LEAST busted out of all of them.  

 

Seriously - multiple sources, all the same.  The weep holes always look jacked-up.

 

[lancemb]

Hmmm...thanks for the input.  Sounds like perhaps it will be okay, even if it's a bit crazy looking.

 

It looks aa if it was ground to intentionally open the hole up.  For inspection or repair during assembly perhaps?

 

Anyone who has ever worked in a GM factory probably knows that until very recently (and maybe still is in some) normal practice to sell less-than-perfect or repaired rejects in the aftermarket as replacement parts.

[buick5563]

55's have that also.

[old-tank]

The weep hole was apparently created during the casting process rather than machined, so none are alike and all are irregular.

If that is a NOS pump, all it is good for is a core for a rebuilt pump.  Those old-old-old seals and bearings will soon fail.

[lancemb]

1 hour ago, old-tank said:

The weep hole was apparently created during the casting process rather than machined, so none are alike and all are irregular.

If that is a NOS pump, all it is good for is a core for a rebuilt pump.  Those old-old-old seals and bearings will soon fail.

So you think the hole is not a concern then? 

 

Yes I realize the rubber on these things can dry out and shrink.  However, I put an NOS one (an aluminum one which worries me more) on my convertible nearly 2 years ago because I had it handy and it's still holding up so far!  The one I just got seems to have been  very well-stored so it may be even better (I hope)...

 

[buick5563]

Correct. Hole is not a concern.

Edited January 18, 2017 by buick5563
Hilarious misspelling (see edit history)

[NC-car-guy]

It is odd to be ground down like that....  maybe someone else had filled in the weep hole (innocently not knowing that it was supposed to be there and odd-shaped)

[old-tank]

I wouldn't use it.  When the seal fails, you can probably limp home with only a big mess.  When the bearing fails it takes out other components like radiator, timing cover and fan shroud.

Back when I was younger, more flexible, dumber and broker, I removed a lot of used parts in junk yards including water pumps...those actually gave decent service.  A NOS one for a 55 that I bought at a National Meet 30 years ago lasted 300 miles....bearing failed while spitting out dry powder.

Yours is a good core with correct markings and a new gasket surface.  Yours looks oily at the bearing.  When the oil seeps out over the many years there is no lubrication present now.  And old grease is inferior to current products.

Try it but watch ii.

[avgwarhawk]

I would go with old-talk on this as well.  The seals over the years lose pliability and crack.  NOS rubber products I have purchased crack easily.  

[lancemb]

Hmmm...thanks for the food for thought.  I'd better watch the one on my convertible closely.  I do have a couple of good cores at the moment as well.  Is there a good source to rebuild, and what might the cost be?

[Beemon]

Get on touch with the Flying Dutchman (not joking), I think it will run you about $150. Russ Martin trusts him and he's a pretty cynical guy when it comes to rebuilders. 

[buick man]

… yeah 1 for the dutchman ... and while your at it, have him install a superior interior 4 vane fan and ditch the stock 3 vane while your at it …..

Edited January 20, 2017 by buick man (see edit history)

[lancemb]

Who the heck is this Flying Dutchman?  How does one contact this international man of mystery?

[Guest]

 

do a Google search>    https://www.google.ca/#q=flying+dutchman+water+pump

[Beemon]

His website seems to be down, but it can't hurt to give him a call.

 

+1 888-595-1110

[51_Buick]

I pretty sure it's a weep hole. Mine has it too.

[NTX5467]

If the size and such of that weep hole are a concern, then some JBWeld to fill it in, then drill a new hole, followed by paint might make it look better.  As long as it's in "air space" rather than "water space", no issues.  On modern pumps, it's on the bottom side of things.

 

If you're chasing proper date codes and casting numbers, find a local quality rebuilder to rebuild yours.  When sealed bearings "leak", not good!  One concern about "seals" could be the age of the ones used in the rebuild!

 

NTX5467

[jsmittie41]

Weep holes are generally on the bottom side of the water pump housing.   On the pump pictured above the hole is on the top.  I'd speculate that this part of the housing was ground away to provide clearance for the pulley.   The engine pictured looks like a straight 8 with an alternator.  A little creative engineering.  

[Jim Nelson]

Looking for a 1954 series 50, 60 or 70 rear end  Need to get my car back on the road.  All these had a 3.4 ratio rear.  The 50 series also had an option of 3.2 ratio.  Let me know  oldbuickjimat gmail.com.  St Pete / Tampa. #47157.   

[51_Buick]

On 6/8/2017 at 8:41 PM, jsmittie41 said:

Weep holes are generally on the bottom side of the water pump housing.   On the pump pictured above the hole is on the top.  I'd speculate that this part of the housing was ground away to provide clearance for the pulley.   The engine pictured looks like a straight 8 with an alternator.  A little creative engineering.  

Yes, the "individual" that owned the car before me decided to do a at home 12 volt conversion with whatever they had laying around. Hence why the alternator was held in with a wood screw and old lug nut used for spacers. needless to say i'm going to convert it back to 6volt.

Edited July 16, 2017 by 51_Buick (see edit history)

[Airy Cat]

When reinstalling the water pump and/or timing cover I always use stainless steel bolts.

[pont35cpe]

Might use some anti-seize on the bolt threads also, when I removed the water pump on my `36 233 and my `41 248, mounting bolts twisted off..

[Ttotired]

Not really keen on stainless bolts for that reason, they seem soft, very likely to bind (especially stainless on stainless) and a nightmare to drill out

 

 

[trimacar]

Stainless is a soft metal.  Yes, that sounds counterintuitive to anyone who's tried to drill a hole in stainless metal, but it's true.

 

The problem is that stainless work hardens very quickly, and at low temperatures.  So, if you're trying to drill a hole slowly, you're work hardening the surface of the stainless that the bit is in contact with, and thus drill bit won't, uh, how shall I put this, drill...

 

You need a bit that cuts deep, below surface of work hardening, and don't be shy, cut quickly.

 

How do I know this?  30+ years in the food business, where EVERYTHING had to be washdown and made of stainless, and all the trials and tribulations so associated with the metal....

 

So, to the original question, stainless bolts are great, UNLLESS they have to be torqued to a certain force, or be very, very tight...then, they can become a problem...put a stainless stud to hold your exhaust manifold, and after it hardens from the heat, good luck drilling it out!.....

[Beemon]

I've never had an issue with the gold zinc plated bolts, but the silver bolts I've noticed rust out pretty quick. Likewise, grade 8 chrome bolts are available where I live and I've thought about using those, too, but it's kind of expensive....