harry yarnell Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Awhile ago, Fram oil filters got a bad rap. Why? Are the current filters 'any good'? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 I have seen somewhere that there is a site by the "oil guy" and he gives his opinion. I don't recall who came down on Fram, but there are plenty of other filters out there if you are concerned about Fram. For any "new" Reatta owners, the 1988-1990 cars need to use "short" filters because the "long" filter extends slightly below the oil pan and exposes it to unnecessary damage.1991 changed the oil filter adaptor and those cars can use the "long" filter giving you about 1/4 more filter material inside. The Reatta used three different oil filter adaptor designs (1) 1988-1990 the filter pointed down beside the oil pan (2) early 1991 was a poor design that pointed the filter back toward the firewall at roughly a 45 degree angle, when removing it leaked oil into a plastic catch pan. (3) late 1991 design the adaptor came out and down by the harmonic balancer at about a 30 degree angle. Both of the 1991 designs allow the use of the longer filter When I first discovered the late 1991 filter I posted it on the forum and that late adaptor was used on lots of 3800 engines after 1991, I believe that third design adaptor could be used on the '88-'90 engines but have yet to hear from anyone that has tried the change. Here is partial list of popular brands and the part number for the short and long filters SHORT 18MM thread & 3 9/16 tall = ACDelco = PF-47, FRAM = 3387a or 3354, Purolator = L10111, WIX = 51040, MOTORCRAFT = FL-321 LONG 18MM thread & 4 5/16 tall = ACDelco = PF-52, FRAM = 3980, Purolator = L204011, WIX = 51036, Motorcraft = FL-402 Here is a picture of the difference in a short and long filter..........center picture is the #2 design from left wheel...........last picture #3 design adaptor viewed from left wheel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I use mostly AC47s with an occasional Purolator. Once saw a PF51 apart and the filer area was about the same as a 47.(was developed to add oil capacity to a Fiero). Personally think it more important to change oil and filter about every 3k miles though Mobil 1 High Milage is pretty cheap these daze. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 I switched to Mobil 1 at least 25 year ago....long enough that there was only Mobil 1 and Amsoil selling synthetic. Don't really know if it helps but I sleep well at night.......I change oil once a year or at 10K and change filters every 3K....I know 3K does not divide evenly into 10K but my goal is every 3K and we all know we don't always meet our goals. When WalMart started selling their 100% synthetic oil I tried it in one vehicle then decided if it was good enough for one why not all. Also my Reatta seldom get 1000 miles per year, often it is less than 300. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wws944 Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Many years ago, in the early days of the web, a fellow decided he was tired of the BS surrounding oil filters. He bought one of just about every filter he could find that fit his car, cut them open, and took lots of notes and photos. Things like quantity and quality of the filter material, end cap construction, anti-drain back valve, etc. He was not impressed with quite a number of them, Frams in particular. He also reported on how various filters seemed to come from a single manufacturer. And so on. It became a bit of a sensation within car discussion forums. He actually rated AC Delco filters pretty highly. Mobil-1 filters were also excellent, along with Mahle and some others. It is interesting to note that a couple of years after he published his findings, Fram came out with their higher grade filters for those willing to pay an extra couple dollars per filter. I think his site was called 'mini-mopar' or some such. Too lazy to google it right now. Barney: I've owned a couple of cars where the recommendation is the opposite of what you do. That is, they recommended a filter change every other oil change. Nonetheless, I just do both at the same time like most people. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wws944 Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Found it: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I have always bought the cheapest oil and the cheapest filters I could find. I wait for the big box stores like Menards or FleetFarm to have sales, rebates, etc and buy their oil. I also go to Rock Auto and buy their oil filter "private label" close outs. Both my "Daily Driver" Reattas [the Red and the Black] are over 250,000 miles and still run good. I do change my oil every 3,000 miles. My wife's Buick Enclave gets a synthetic blend as specified by Buick, but it is a "Big Box" store's private label brand and once again a cheap filter. The Enclave also gets changed every 3,000 miles. I think the real key is changing oil. I also think that oil today is better refined then it was when the Reattas were built helping with extending the engines life. The cars prior to the Reattas and the Enclave also got the same treatment and all delivered 200,000 miles when they were sold. [I don't trade cars in, I find I can do better selling my cars to others.] 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 I do the same thing Dave, only I change mine every 5k. Modern cheap oil and filters do just fine with a routine oil change schedule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 (edited) 8 hours ago, DAVES89 said: I have always bought the cheapest oil and the cheapest filters I could find. I wait for the big box stores like Menards or FleetFarm to have sales, rebates, etc and buy their oil. I'm just the opposite when it comes to oil and filters. I've been a die hard Castrol GTX fan for over 30 years. It's all I buy for my older cars and I buy Castrol Edge full synthetic for my Equinox because it requires synthetic oil. I buy it when it's on sale if I can but I would pay extra to get Castrol. I can tell you from working in an automotive machine shop for a couple of years that the oil you use is the life of your car's engine. When I worked in the automotive machine shop I tore down a lot of engines to put them in the hot tank, I've had to take a hammer and beat the distributor out of the intake on some cars that were owned by dedicated Quaker State owners due to junk buildup around the distributor shaft preventing it from coming out. The only internal engine problem I've ever had was when a wrist pin keeper cam loose in a Toyota 22R engine with over 200,000 miles on it that scared up the cylinder wall. There was virtually no wear in the cylinders and the engine looked almost brand new inside. I've never had an engine that was using oil when I got rid of it . Maybe I've just been lucky but I'm going to stick with Castrol. A friend of mine who owns an engine shop invited me to a seminar put on by NAPA about oil filters. They had all the major brands cut open and on display for inspection. The NAPA filter, made by Purolator, by far was the best looking filter. It has a coil spring for the relief valve instead a piece of tin and seemed to be built better. I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles so I don't know that the extra cost of premium filters matters as long as it is a good brand. My 2 cents. Edited January 21, 2017 by Ronnie fixed typos (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Agree that filter site is comprehensive for the time. I do avoid the AC filters with eight holes and the "low line" Purolators. Personally do not care for the filters produced by "Champ" (Champion Laboratories). Back in the day I watched the oil pressure gauge. Typically after about 3k miles I'd see about a 2 psi drop at hot idle and that was my signal to change oil and filter. Afterwards the pressure would be back to normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest george1861 Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 On 1/21/2017 at 8:59 AM, Ronnie said: A friend of mine who owns an engine shop invited me to a seminar put on by NAPA about oil filters. They had all the major brands cut open and on display for inspection. The NAPA filter, made by Purolator, I believe the NAPA Gold is made by Wix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 1 hour ago, george1861 said: I believe the NAPA Gold is made by Wix. You could be right. That seminar was several years ago. They probably contract out their filters to whoever can make them to their specifications the cheapest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Agree, suspect the eight hole AC-47s I've seen were made by Champ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest george1861 Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 On 1/21/2017 at 8:59 AM, Ronnie said: I'm just the opposite when it comes to oil and filters. I've been a die hard Castrol GTX fan for over 30 years. Oil has changed over the years. SM/SN has no ZDDP in it. doesn't matter on roller cams & may not on high mileage engines. remains to be seen if this will turn out to be basicly flase like in-leaded fuel/ex valve controversy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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