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Why do you winterize an antique car before storage?


nick8086

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Why do you winterize an antique car before storage??

 

I need a good article or what can happen to a Classic car if not done..

 

I know most of them.. But I need feed back from a car guy to show the courts..

 

1. Pests

2. Coolant is up to "snuff"

3. corrosion

4. lube up the internals of the engine that normally would be oiled, but may become dry from sitting.

5. Rope seal drys up.

6. Gas tank rusts..

 

 

Edited by nick8086 (see edit history)
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You do not say what kind of vehicle your talking about . But even on my '31 Dodge ,the manual of operation gives a section on storing of vehicles and tire ,repeatable at 90 days . That would hold more weight in court than a car guy . Couple in some articles published on storage and new fuels .

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7 hours ago, nick8086 said:

Why do you winterize an antique car before storage??

 

Possibly an all to simple answer by quoting an expression, "An once of prevention".

 

In my case storing my car too long without annual attention allowed the engine to lockup.

Fortunately with removing plugs and soaking the cylinders for some time, then applying pressure to the flywheel, it came free and with regular (about once a month) running it appears to be fine for now.

Having been a boat owner most of my life you winterize it as regular maintenance practice to protect your hole-in-the-water investment. :rolleyes:  Beside, the last thing you want as a responsible owner is to be stranded away from land and put yourself and passengers at risk

 

For sure the items you list are what one wants to prevent but I would add putting the car up on stands to get the tires off the ground and weight off the suspension.

Back in the day of bias ply and Polyglas tires, after sitting for a long period of time the tires would get flat spots from sitting. It would take many miles for those tires to smooth out. Had one car that never smoothed out till I replaced those tires.

 

Not sure this helps you but good luck.

Doug.

 

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What is your definition of Winter Storage?  If you are putting it away in some remote storage facility for an extended period of time would be one thing or are you just keeping it in your garage for the winter?

 

When I was in the US Air Force for 8 years back in the mid 1970, I stored my 1933 Chevrolet in a garage for several years and yes I did a few special thing mentions above to preserve the engine, removed the battery, and placed an open box of mothballs on the interior floor and that was it.

 

Now with the same car kept in my garage, and not driven very often, I start the car once a month, change the oil every 2 or 3 years, and still always keep an open box of mothballs sitting on the floor.  I don't keep a Battery Tender on this car, but insure the battery has a good charge.    I keep a Battery Tender on my 84 BMW most of the time since the electronics tend to drain the battery down when it sits more then 2 weeks.

 

I have now owned my 33 Chevrolet for over 45 years and have never had problems with any of my antique cars related to storage.

 

 

Edited by Vila (see edit history)
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You may find stuck valves when you attempt restart. A little upper cylinder lubricant fixes that. We used to remove the air cleaner and squirt a good dollop of Shell Ensis in while the engine was running to store the Dodge 8. Ensis is a waxy oil with good "stickability" and is used when inhibiting an engine for long term storage. There was plenty of smoke, esp. on restarting a year or more later. Never had a stuck valve, but when I didn't start it for months without inhibiting, I got a stuck valve. Upper cylinder lubricant is really only needed on startup and shutdown.

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Twelve people is way to many to prepare a car for storage. And around here the courts only are in session for an hour before lunch break and an hour after. They wouldn't have it done by spring. They could drop the whole thing if they ran into a technicality.

Bernie

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I check the antifreeze and then try to drive them once a month at minimum.  Weather isn't bad for long when it does get bad here.  There are always a few club members ready to burn some gas.  All it takes is an email and a clear weekend.

Terry

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I used to use STA-BIL religiously but one year I forgot.........and it didn't matter over the course of one or two seasons so that was that.

The Model T's and Dodge get the gas run out of the carbs until the engines die and the battery cables get disconnected.

That's it.

All 5 cars get some MMO at every other fill.

I figure with running 10% ethanol any little extra upper cylinder and valve lubrication is a good thing.......and it smells nice....... :P

I start the '59 Chevy and '65 Mustang every couple months and let them warm up so I haven't experienced "dead" gas in the carburetors.

If I planned on letting the 2 newer cars stand longer I'd use STA-BIL because I know it does work over the long haul.

 

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For many years I have taken a very simple approach for my engine powered :stuff" which includes: '51 and '54 Kaisers, '52 Ford tractor, '72 and '90 Wheel Horse tractors, 2 chain saws, leaf blower and a power washer.

I put clean oil in all and a Battery Tender for the batteries.

All are stored indoors.

 

Everything starts in the spring!

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 1/14/2017 at 7:41 AM, 1937hd45 said:

good luck with the jury.

A fiduciary duty is the highest standard of care. The person who has a fiduciary duty is called the fiduciary, and the person to whom he owes the duty, is typically referred to as the principal or the beneficiary. If an individual breaches the fiduciary duties, he or she would need to account for the ill-gotten profit.

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