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Needing - 1937 Trans rubber for mount - look please


John_Mc

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Guys I have checked with Alan and he is puzzled on this rubber ring and may not be able to find one.  If these are just unavailable, anyone know who can make a mold or show me how to make a mold??  More than 1/2 of the ring in in great shape.  Any input will be helpful.  From what I can see, this is an original as the trans IS a matching number to the car itself.

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John, you can try the following site for information and products.

 

https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/mold-max-25-create-2-silicone-mold/

 

You could try repairing or recasting your part with Devcon Flexane 94.

 

http://www.devcon.com/UserFiles/File/Urethanes_User_Guide.pdf

 

I used the Flexane putty to repair the running boards on my 40 Mercury and it held up very well for 30 years, until I had them recovered by Hunley Aucuff.

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7 hours ago, 19tom40 said:

John, you can try the following site for information and products.

 

https://www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/mold-max-25-create-2-silicone-mold/

 

You could try repairing or recasting your part with Devcon Flexane 94.

 

http://www.devcon.com/UserFiles/File/Urethanes_User_Guide.pdf

 

I used the Flexane putty to repair the running boards on my 40 Mercury and it held up very well for 30 years, until I had them recovered by Hunley Aucuff.

Tom, thanks, I'm going to read more about these, sounds like it might be the way to go.

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Go to forschpolymer.com, they offer a product in polyurethane called 60A Liquid Urethane and stated

that it is the best choice for motor mounts with a tensile strength of 1250 psi.   McMaster-Carr (McMaster.com) carries this product and you will need probably a one pound Kit of 60A Liquid Urethane Part# 8644K24. And Ureathane to Metal Primer Part# 8644.

 

I have a write up with photos of how it is accomplished and it seems reativly simple. I intend to try it out on motor mounts.

This information was forwarded to my by Dave Roycroft, long time member and it's just too good to not share.  I am listed. In the LZOC members directory and if I can be of further assistance, give me a call.

 

Tom

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Have you checked to see how close the early Ford mount compares? Looks awful close, might be something that can made to work.  

 

I was was looking at the 33-34 mount and maybe trimming off the ears.  The rear transmission retainer for the 36-37 Zephyr is the same as the 32-36 Ford.  Therefore the ID should be the same.  

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Ken & Tom,

      Thanks guys very much.  I called Eckler's and confirmed that the rubber ring has a groove in it to hold it in place, just like my Zephyr original.  Hopefully I will be able to pry it off and after some trimming, have it look and perform like an original part.  I will let you know if it works out.  

 

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Ken & Tom,

      Thanks guys very much.  I called Eckler's and confirmed that the rubber ring has a groove in it to hold it in place, just like my Zephyr original.  Hopefully I will be able to pry it off and after some trimming, have it look and perform like an original part.  I will let you know if it works out.  

 

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Thank you to Ken and Tom,

   I ordered the ring as you suggested and it looks as if it will work out perfectly!  I will have to do some trimming but the ID and OD are a perfect match.  Because the rubber was so tight, I place the whole mount in boiling water for about 10 minutes - then it came right out.  So, it will cost me around $65 with shipping instead of $475 plus shipping.

 

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  Thanks again!!

Edited by John_Mc (see edit history)
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I am glad that it worked out for you. I find Mac's catalog useful to find if parts are available, but seldom order from them, because of their shipping policy. I usually order from local suppliers like Rock Valley in IL, The Ford Barn In WI and Yesteryear Ford parts in MI. These are all small outfits that give great service and the prices are competitive with Mac's.

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John.
Top marks for perseverance with your gearbox rubber mount. I suspect the original factory mount was vulcanized to the  mounting bracket [like the Ford ones] to  help with the sheer weight of the V12 engine. A touch of rubber adhesive may help in your case,  or you may be able to re vulcanize it. I think you would need to get a jig made for that.
 Twenty two years ago I cut a solid piece of solid rubber and pulled the studs up tight, it sort of did the job but sagged and g/box  used to sometimes bump  on the cross member and  have a bit of clutch shudder. I did about 8000mls on that setup. Had done  about 17000mls previously.   That G/box mount does a lot of wok in there and also helps  keep the front and rear axles square to the frame. The 38 sedan has been gone 8 yrs now
. About  18 yrs ago I needed front engine mounts for the 38 Convertible, they were bad. I had jigs made for the front mounts and " fan assembly"  and had new rubber vulcanized on, they came up nice, had 3 sets made for my buddies, they helped pay for the jigs, that' was the expensive bit, $180 for each jig, two of them, $90 for each mount and " fan assembly". All units are still holding together today, mine have done over 20000mls .Just 6 mths. ago I refitted the Columbia 2 speed back axle and noticed the G/box  mount was starting to look a bit ragged around the edges, its holding up ok but  It looked perfect 20 yrs ago, thought about a jig now  but didn't have the will, just needed to get Columbia  together and installed after 6 months of hassles.   I may have to revisit it later, so am watching yours with interest. [PS Columbia is running well]
Just thought I would share this with you.
. Roy. 

Edited by 38ShortopConv.
harmonic balancer should have read fan assembly (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

1-29-17 Update:

Well I've made a lot of progress on my trans mount.  I must write that the ring from Macs was a perfect fit AND no trimming was even necessary because the cutouts in the ring were only needed on one side.  Here are some pictures and it looks good to me, but I'm an amature here and maybe I missed sommething.  Please take a close look since there is a problem - I think.  When I bolted the U-joint "collar" over on top of the metal shroud covering the U-joints, the cork gasket is still probably 1/16" away from the shroud itself.  I assumed it would draw tight when I mounted the mount to the transmission to the transmission body and it did not - is this normal???  I know there is needed room for movement, but please take a look at the last pictures; this seems too much.  Anyway, please take a look at the pictures and let me know what you all think.

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Edited by John_Mc (see edit history)
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