Jump to content

71 Riviera newbie query #1 : vapor canister bracket


marcball

Recommended Posts

Folks, 

my "brand new" 1971 Riviera runs just fine. Aso, I don't plan on doing a full-blown restauration.

Still,I want to do some preemptive maintenance here and there, and I might as well start somewhere.

 

So, topic #1 :

How do I deal with the missing vapor canister bracket ?

And beyond the bracket, what is the matter with the evap canister, in 2016, in my country where I do not run the risk of being stopped and inspected on the fly by the EPA ?

I don't care about bringing the car back to conconrse condition, so my question is more like : 

Could the evap canister system end up creating problems for the reliable and smooth running of V8 ?

 

My present situation is :

A. There is no bracket under the canister. It's part # 3.10 1238330 according to the service manual and parts catalogue (just received them in book and CD form, fun read). I doubt I can find one in France, but I could manufacture one from some small flat iron straps. Any other ideas ?

B. Should I buy a fresh replacement canister ?

C. Should I cut off and drop the whole evap system altogether, and if so how do i do it ?

newbie FR question 1 - 1.jpg

Riv manual 1.jpg

newbie FR question 1 - 2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/22/2016 at 6:33 PM, RivNut said:

I would think that you could form some steel strap to make the "four finger" bracket. If the steel were strong enough, you could bend it so it would have enough tension to hold the canister.  Just a thought.

 

Or, rather than relying on spring tension, one could simply form the 'fingers' and then install a large stainless steel worm-gear clamp around the circumference and snug the fingers between the clamp and the canister body.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

Or, rather than relying on spring tension, one could simply form the 'fingers' and then install a large stainless steel worm-gear clamp around the circumference and snug the fingers between the clamp and the canister body.

The factory didn't use a clamp. ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wasn't suggesting he use spring/bi-metal steel, just putting enough bend in the finger to create some pressure.

On 12/22/2016 at 5:33 PM, RivNut said:

I would think that you could form some steel strap to make the "four finger" bracket. If the steel were strong enough, you could bend it so it would have enough tension to hold the canister.

You're getting in way over my head with "spring bi-metal steel"  He just needs to make sure that it's bolted on securely and doesn't fall off this time.  It should be good for another 40+ years.

 

Ed - Firm believer in the KISS principle.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, that's all helpful.

What I was actually most interested in were these questions :

"-  Could the evap canister system end up creating problems for the reliable and smooth running of V8 ?

B. Should I buy a fresh replacement canister ?

C. Should I cut off and drop the whole evap system altogether, and if so how do i do it ?"

 

If I can get rid of it all, better than wondering when it might mess with the carburation, if any.

Cheers !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, marcball said:

"-  Could the evap canister system end up creating problems for the reliable and smooth running of V8 ?

B. Should I buy a fresh replacement canister ?

C. Should I cut off and drop the whole evap system altogether, and if so how do i do it ?"

 

In my opinion, the system is generally very reliable and if working properly will not cause any performance issues.  The charcoal canister should be fine, the system will periodically purge trapped vapors by pulling them into the intake manifold.  As seen in one of the photos there is a small, round pressed-fiber air filter on the bottom of the canister.  This filter is replaceable and keeps dirt out.  My experience has been that the three biggest issues to look-out for are:

 

1. Cracked or broken vacuum hoses.  On a car such as this, I would replace them all, since they can look OK on the outside while they are disintegrating internally.

2. Missing or incorrectly connected hoses.  When addressing item (1), have a copy of the shop manual handy to verify proper hose routing.

3. There is usually a thermal vacuum switch located somewhere in the engine coolant path.  I think you'll find it near the thermostat housing in the coolant crossover on the front of the intake manifold.  The switch can be checked for leaks and proper operation with a hand-held vacuum pump.

 

Given the simplicity of the system and the fact that it is managing potentially dangerous vapors, I'd find a copy of the shop manual for your car and try repairing the system before contemplating removal.  Please keep us posted with your progress!

 

Here's a link to a good introductory article: http://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/evaporation-control.html

 

Edited by EmTee
Added link (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, EmTee said:

In my opinion (...) Given the simplicity of the system and the fact that it is managing potentially dangerous vapors, I'd find a copy of the shop manual for your car and try repairing the system before contemplating removal.  Please keep us posted with your progress!

 

Well thanks so much for this detailed feedback, exactly what I was shooting for. LOoks like keeping / inspecting / refreshing is the way to go about this.

I have received the 2 service manuals which I'm perusing joyfully over breakfasts (also received from Germany a copy of the 1971 Buick vehicles catalogue, quite the fun and dandy read by the way).

I'll look into all this in more detail once I return from our year-end family trip to Paris (in our "modern" 20yr old panzer). More after that...

Thanks again, and keep on trucking !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not original but how about a container....like a large soup can that is large enough for the canister to drop into.

Cut or drill some holes in the bottom and lower sides so air can get in and water can get out.   Paint it flat black, bolt/screw it in place and drop in the canister.....if it rattles add a screw in the side to stop the rattle.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

Not original but how about a container....like a large soup can that is large enough for the canister to drop into.

Cut or drill some holes in the bottom and lower sides so air can get in and water can get out.   Paint it flat black, bolt/screw it in place and drop in the canister.....if it rattles add a screw in the side to stop the rattle.

That's a good idea. They used coffee cans as vacuum reservoirs - so why not? ;)

 

 

s-l300.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...