What methods of rust proofing do you use, is it worth the cost?

[Guest David3800]

I'm just going to repost this question from another thread I'm a part of, there haven't been any replies as of yet and I feel it would be very valuable information.

[Spinneyhill]

You won't get many replies. What are you talking about? What do you mean by "rust proofing"?

 

Most people paint things or zinc coat them. In my Dodge it seems every single nut, bolt, screw and washer was cadmium plated when they were manufactured.

 

You also fail to offer an "other" choice. I use lanolin spray sometimes, for parts inside. Or RIPO, Rust Inhibiting Penetrating Oil, for things in the shed. Or moisture cured paint. I also spray with 90% zinc paint sometimes.

 

 

[Guest David3800]

1 minute ago, Spinneyhill said:

You won't get many replies. What are you talking about? What do you mean by "rust proofing"?

 

Most people paint things or zinc coat them. In my Dodge it seems every single nut, bolt, screw and washer was cadmium plated when they were manufactured.

 

You also fail to offer an "other" choice. I use lanolin spray sometimes, for parts inside. Or RIPO, Rust Inhibiting Penetrating Oil, for things in the shed. Or moisture cured paint. I also spray with 90% zinc paint sometimes.

 

 

 

Ah, Good point with the other option, Ill add that to the poll if I can. I mean using the methods above. Injecting, undercoating and maybe if anyone here does it to there car body hey, whatever. I guess the methods can be discussed in the comments here. I just mean what products or processes do people use to ensure they're vehicle is protected from rust. I'm just trying to get a general consensus from people that might do this. I guess I'll post a video for reference. 

 

[Rusty_OToole]

Oil spray is most effective if you renew it from time to time. I just bought a 1996 Ford Crown Vic with only 50,000 miles on it. It was oil sprayed and the underside is covered with a thick coat of grease and has absolutely no rust. Except for the frame right behind the front tires where a spray of water and mud off the tires washed off the oil. Rubber or tarry undercoating is worse than useless. It works for a while but eventually water gets trapped underneath and makes it rust worse. I suppose rust proof paint would be the answer but it is not too convenient to sand down and repaint the underside of your car every couple of years.

 

I have tried old motor oil, chain saw bar oil (very clingy) and a mix of oil and tar undercoating. All seem to work. The secret seems to be, it has to stay oily and never dry or wash off.

 

This makes a heck of a mess under the car but it does keep rust at bay.

[Xander Wildeisen]

 I live in Idaho, rust proofing is not an issue. Bringing water with you when you go on long walks is an issue.

[EmTee]

I take my pickup to Rust Check for an annual respray.  $200 per year, but IT WORKS.  Since I keep my vehicles until they are at least 15 years old and salt is thrown here from November till April it pays off in the long run.  I stop the resprays when I get within 3 or 4 years of retiring the vehicle.

[Guest BillP]

I bought a new double axle dump trailer twenty years ago and quickly noticed how poor the factory paint was. I got a 5 gallon pail of foundation tar and a long-handled broom and coated the bed floor and sides copiously with tar. It held against many loads of sand, gravel, horse manure and whatever else I could throw in it.

 

I've had my sports cars bottom coated with Shutz, which is probably the same stuff, but with German elegance. This a timely topic as I am refurbishing my old jeep, a known rust magnet. 

[auburnseeker]

I use a combination of fifth wheel spray lube and a tub of chassis grease applied with a parts washing brush.  I then follow that with WD 40 for almost everything under the hood/ door jambs and tight,  non underside spots.  I rejuvenate it with several blast of WD40 in the winter applied with a big spray bottle and lots of Fluid film.  I buy it by the case and even bought a few gallons.  I used just the WD40 and the Fluid film liberally on my wife's new Toyota truck,  so thick that you can see the layering.  Seems to have done the trick so far.  One small bracket on the motor was missed somehow and that is rusted to crap in one year.  

Toyota does a much better job sealing up and finishing the underside of their trucks than Ford.  Especially when I compare hers to my Superduty.  

[Guest David3800]

Would I be wrong in assuming they'd sandblast to get existing rust off? I'm sure there are plenty of other methods but sandblasting seems to me to be the most likely course of action that I can think of. Especially when such large areas of the vehicle need to be done. Also thanks everyone, some really good advice being shared here!

[Rusty_OToole]

By the way Spinneyhill I envy you living in a place where you don't know what snow, sleet, salt and rust look like.

[Rusty_OToole]

Dave if you are talking about the bottom of a car you drive all the time you don't sandblast the rust, just spray it with oil. The oil will soak into the rust. Then drive over a dirt road so the dust will give the oil some body. Do this every fall and after a few years you have a thick greasy coating nothing can get through except it will rub off if you drive through a field of long grass and it will wash off or wear off in spots, that is why you need to renew it.

[Guest David3800]

15 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Sorry if this posts weird, for some reason it says Rusty is saying this. Anyway sounds good, I want to keep the car as long as physically possible. Its not going to be my daily driver though, I got another vehicle in mind for that. But Now I know more options so I can weigh the pro's and con's of each product, Thanks guys. If anyone else happens to stumble across this thread, keep the suggestions coming I'm sure any bit of input will be appreciated.

Edited November 26, 2016 by David3800 (see edit history)

[padgett]

Shouldn't "location" be a choice ? Part of the reason I chose to live in Orlando is that unlike Indiana/Michigan where I went to school or the coast where I grew up (salt spray), here rust must be imported.

[Rusty_OToole]

I'm thinking of trying something new. To wait until a cold or freezing day to do the oil spray. Jack up the car remove the wheels, and heat the oil in a pan of water on a hot plate. Then spray it on hot and let it congeal on the cold car. This will stop it dripping off.

 

By they way I use a Schutz gun, made for spraying stoneguard and undercoating. And about 30 PSI.

 

If you want to do a thorough job spray in the trunk up around the wheel wells and trunk drops, to prevent rust around the wheel wells and the bottom of the fender. Also inside the doors but be sure the windows are UP.

[Rusty_OToole]

To answer the second part of the question. If you live in the rust belt and plan to keep your car as a daily driver for a long time it is money well spent. But cars typically last 10 years now even if you do nothing to them. And if it is a collector car used only on nice days you don't need it.

[28 Chrysler]

Here in southern Nevada UV protection is what is needed. So my location would be my rust prevention.

[R Walling]

 I primered the underside of my cars and paint them with Imron.

 

 On the inside panels,doors, rockers, qut pans etc, I drill drain holes in the low corners and then spray a rust preventive that doesn't harden.

 

 I apply LARGE quantities and let it drip out the holes. That way, there are no low spots where water or condensation can collect.

 

 In the summer I wash out the rockers and underside to remove the collected mud.

[drwatson]

In the northeast, perforation rust has been a big challenge through the years. In the 50's, cars were "undercoated" with the belief rust proofing was taking place. Ironically, some say it made things worse. It failed to prevent: steel floors from opening and collapsing, disintegration of rocker panels and all the other visible ugliness.  All that damaging rust works its way from inside out where water and moisture had settled on poorly protected steel hidden from view and with difficult access.  General appl of rust prevent "underneath" won't go far.

I think with knowledge of and access to the problem area(s), careful application of wax based spray products such as what Rusty Jones used, would keep perforation rust in check.  Some disassembly required.

Edited November 27, 2016 by drwatson (see edit history)

[Guest David3800]

20 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

2 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

To answer the second part of the question. If you live in the rust belt and plan to keep your car as a daily driver for a long time it is money well spent. But cars typically last 10 years now even if you do nothing to them. And if it is a collector car used only on nice days you don't need it.

 

Ya makes sense, I live in Canada though, dispite the fact that it seems to be taking unusually long this year, snow typically falls in my area early to mid October, then melts late April early May. Because of the properties of Calcium chloride, Rock salt is more commonly used and of course it had to be the corrosive one. This country is great at producing rust. But yeah, I definitely gotta prioritize the whole taking it out on nice days thing.