Pete in PA

36 Dodge opening windshield

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It may be illogical but one of the first things I want to do on my D2 sedan is get that darned swing out windshield to open.  It is stuck shut, either by the old seal that has turned to goo, or by some kind of sealant added later.  (I think it's the former as the rubber seal deteriorated.)

 

So two questions:

 

1) to swing open the windshield, which way do I turn the crank inside the car, CCW or CW?

 

2) I see this seal is for sale on ebay (item 182328937827) Does it look correct?

 

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Cannot remember which way but that windshield regulator is a metal band that goes through a light pot metal gearbox regulator with any force you will break it, I suggest you get under the dash and dissasemble it and then try and soak it and lube it up, if it is broke there is someone who sells replacements but a good original and or replacements run up to 300 + sometimes,  be careful I know this as I parted a rusted out heap 36 one time and it broke on me,Good Luck!

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Yeah, that's why I want to know which way to turn the crank.  I *am* proceeding with caution, believe me!  

I embrace your idea to disconnect and remove the gearbox before proceeding.   Thanks.

 

That way I can use more force to break free the windshield and frame.   I need to see whether some kind of knife can be employed to cut the old seal without damaging anything else.  The windshield is already broken so it's not like I have to worry about that.

 

Maybe the old music wire-wrapped-around-two dowels and used as a cutter?  Hmmm

Edited by Pete in PA (see edit history)

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Before I tried to open it with the crank, I would remove the 2 screws holding the tape to the frame if possible and then push on the frame to open. It is probably stuck to the old seal or someone may have sealed it up at some point. Clockwise is the correct way to open. If the frame is really stuck, you may have to remove the header panel to expose the hinges and remove the bolts then try to free the entire frame. The photo on Ebay is not correct. While it looks like the right seal and may work, the correct one has a little secondary flap to help seal. The little flap helps direct water away from the frame under the seal. Later models did away with the flap and the bodies changed. This is only the frame seal. There are 2 other special seals that go around the inner body flange and under the dash. The only supplier for this seal is Steele Rubber and while it is for Plymouth cars it is not completely correct for the Dodge but can be adapted. I would try Restoration Specialties for the outer seal.  Alot of aftermarket seals are not the correct size due to using old shrunken patterns. I can direct you on what you'll need for your car. Pete, be careful of what you see for sale on Ebay as many of the items are not for what the seller claims. Also, you can save money on many things if you search out the right places to buy things. it's always best to inquire on the forum first and get input from those who have already bought this stuff. I used to sell vintage rubber and repair vintage window channel so I have some ins. Many times too, guys will have extra parts or know how to repair parts that will save you time , money and aggravation. We also dealt in clips and fasteners so I know which parts are available for these cars and which are not. Be leery of body parts sold on the internet as many of them are not right and don't fit!  The windshield glass itself is held in the frame by a material called glass setting tape. The old original material has since gone obsolete but a replacement is still available. It is sold in several thicknesses to fill the gap between the frame and glass. It is also used in the window riser channels.

Edited by jpage (see edit history)

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I spent a couple of hours yesterday futzing with that darned windshield.  That frame is *tightly* bonded to whatever seal is still there.  Wow.  I tried all manner of persuasion and never saw the windshield frame move 1 mm.  At this point I'm using a collection of picks, hacksaw blades, and screwdrivers to remove the accessible parts of the seal one chunk of black dust at a time.  This could take a while.

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Here is what the crank looks like. Clockwise to open is correct. Mix 50% Acetone and 50% trans fluid in a good chemical proof spray bottle. Cheap bottles will not last long. It is the best penetrating solution that I have come across while dismantling these old cars on daily bases. I also use a micro torch that works great in confined areas. J is correct about the parts on Ebay.

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Edited by countrytravler (see edit history)

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I am happy to report !!! SUCCESS !!! in getting the windshield to open.

 

It was not easy.  I spent about 2 hours today working at it and the first hour was pretty much a wasted effort of hacksawing, picking, and scraping at the old gasket material.  When I had had enough of that I removed the sun visor panel at the very front of the headliner and unscrewed the windshield hinges.

 

Then it was more careful poking, prodding, and pry-barring until I found that the whole upper edge of the windshield did move outward a bit.  I worked my way to the passenger side edge and pried a little harder.  Suddenly there was a *pop* an the whole RH vertical edge was free.  Repeated my efforts on the LH side and that was successful as well.

 

At that point I was able to easily crank out the lower portion of the windshield and I was very surprised at *how* far out it would go.  I thought maybe 2 or 3 inches but it's more than double that.

 

As much as I wanted to continue my efforts, my wife's birthday is tomorrow and I needed to attend to preparations for that.  I don't feel like sleeping on the couch tomorrow night.

 

Here are a few pics of my efforts.

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9 hours ago, C Carl said:

 

A/C too.  - Carl

 

This is true, with the windshield open and the vent all the way open and the windows down who needs A/C.

Here in NW Oregon the few days that real A/C might be nice its not worth the effort and expense to have a functional A/C.

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is there a trick to getting the regulator out from behind the dash.  have the bolts out just does not seem to be enough space  to pull the regulator out?

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I can't remember but you may have to move or remove the vent handle bracket. Good luck

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I cringe a little bit when I see a windshield opened that far. Boy, you can really fill your eyes with sand if you aren't carful. Really, the same thing is true for the cowl vent if you don't sweep the floor regularly. Keep a whisk broom under the seat, if you can find one.

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