Oil Bypass Filters

[Beemon]

I've been looking into these recently. At the last cruise in I went to, I drew a crowd because I have an old Luber-Finer 200S mounted on the inner passenger firewall of my 56 Buick. It's disconnected of course, and the element is obsolete, but everyone who pointed at it said they were serious accessories that were proven to extend engine oil life. My grandfather was a firm believer when he installed it in the late 50s, stated that every oil change the old oil was just about the same viscosity as new oil. Today's bypass filters can filter down to the 1-2 micron range, where it's been stated that the 3-5 micron range is where all the harmful damage occurs. The stock cartridge filter only filters to 25 microns, and the best spin on filters get you down to 15. You see them all the time on fleet vehicles and heavy machinery, but does anyone still run them on their car? I'm familiar with the TP filters, but it's equally interesting to see these lab tested filters in the industrial world, whether spin on or cartridge, all look like TP with a sock wrapped around them.

[NTX5467]

Seems that all of the old "add-on" accessory oil filters only filtered about 10% of the oil, or something like that.  But when new, "something" was better than "nothing", as many of those older cars didn't have oil filters (of any kind) as standard equipment.  Hence the terminology "full flow" for the later cartridge and spin-on oil filters.

 

When I first heard of "LuberFiner", it was in the HD Truck area.  Don't know about them filtering to finer micron levels, though, but then I haven't researched that for that brand.

 

As I understand it, in the "micron test" the media being filter has mixed sizes in it, not specifically "big", "little", or otherwise.  The percentage of each "trapped" is important, too.  Filtering media has progressed in the smallest size capabilities over the years.

 

NTX5467

[EmTee]

From what I have read, it sounds like the bypass type filters can generally filter smaller particles because the finer filter media doesn't have to flow all of the oil, as with the full-flow type.  Eventually, all of the oil does get filtered with a bypass filter (at least in theory).  Perhaps the best of both worlds would be to install both full-flow and bypass filters...

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

on the V8 322, where would one tap into the oil for a bypass filter?

[Beemon]

You would use both in tandem. In differential equations we did problems where siphoning mixtures would eventually reach an apex where all the fluid in a container becomes 100% diluted. This could take upwards of 30 minutes and really depended upon size of container, capacity and flow velocity. It always fully mixed, though. These filters may only filter 10% of the oil at a time, but will filter 100% of the oil after a period of time. 

 

My grandfather had a T installed at the oil pressure line that would send oil to both the pressure gauge and the bypass filter. The line then ran to a port around the stock filter that dumped back into the oil pan (I haven't found this port yet, I know it exists because he didn't tap the oil pan, but I haven't really looked either since the filter element is old and they don't make replacements). 

 

The unit I have been specifically researching is a Harvard 152L because it has the same flow rate and capacity of the Luber-Finer 200S. They guarantee 2 microns at 96% efficiency. On big rigs, filter life is 20,000 miles before changing the filter in the bypass. It also pulls water out of the oil that is the #1 cause of caustic acids in the oil (hydrogen ions bond with the elements in the oil after the water breaks down).

 

Pretty interesting topic to explore I think. 

[60FlatTop]

Slide stream flows are really hard to make work. The fluids aren't usually smart enough to turn away from their inertia flow and travel off to another destination. The reason those old guys found particles in the filter would be that it created a low velocity area and the stuff in suspension just dropped out the way it does in any of the oil passages when you shut the engine off.

 

Try the equations again with everything that is an assumption removed. You won't have much more than the + or - whatever at the end. A 3,000 mile or semiannual for our cars is just as effective, probably better.

 

And those octogenarians sitting around the cracker barrel; don't trust them for a minute. It ain't just crackers they are full of.

 

Bernie

[EmTee]

9 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

The reason those old guys found particles in the filter would be that it created a low velocity area and the stuff in suspension just dropped out the way it does in any of the oil passages when you shut the engine off...

 

...or the way they do in the oil bath air cleaner on a '56 Buick.

[NTX5467]

ALL of the "full flow" filters (either spin-on or cartridge) have a bypass valve (as on the Chevrolet V-8's spin-on adapter) or in the filter itself.

 

It seems that to know just how much oil volume was going through the bypass filter, you'd have to know how much oil was not being used in the engine's oil galleys and other oil passageways.  Once they are pressurized, the "rest of it" would go into the bypass filter unit on its way to the oil pan.  New, tight-clearance engines would bypass more, as worn engines would bypass less, I suspect.

 

When I first heard of the TP filter, I laughed.  Then I saw an article on them, with pictures of "the roll" after various amounts of "use".  As incredible as it might seem, they did catch more "stuff", especially the moisture-related things, than I suspected.  Only thing was their effectiveness depended upon short-interval changes of "the roll".  Although less expensive, back then, it seemed like "a pain" to change rolls every couple of days or once a week, depending upon miles driven.

 

An ALTERNATVE which many racers have adopted is the Oberg oil filter.  It's a cleanable screen in a pancake-style enclosure.  Might not get down to "microns", but it certainly will catch the "big stuff".  Easy to maintenance, too.

 

IF the sealing around the oil dip stick is "tight" and the air in the breather inlets is filtered effectively, then grit in the engine can be greatly minimized. 

 

NTX5467

[Beemon]

The stock 1956 filter also has an oil bypass in it. As far as I know, all OEM filter housings have some type of bypass so the filter doesn't load up on cold starts.

 

These bypass filters are wired directly into the same port the oil pressure line is routed, so it gets constant pressure, and thus filters all the time - not just when it bypasses the primary filter.

[EmTee]

A 1967 Lincoln I owned 30 years ago and bought with 110K on the clock came with a Frantz filter on it.  The engine ran like a Swiss watch; maybe because of the filter, or maybe because the previous owner was fastidious about maintenance.  In any case, I installed a new roll of TP with every oil & filter change.  For MUCH more on this topic check out the "Bob the Oil Guy" site...

 

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4125029/Oil_bypass_micro-filtration:_s#Post4125029

Edited October 15, 2016 by EmTee
typo (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

I have always wondered about the credibility of those incredible reports.

 

One old timer at the general store was telling about the hard times when he couldn't buy toilet paper. Claimed he just rolled up a Sears catalog and stuffed it into the filter housing. Must have been a long time ago because when they went to the colored pages they lost all their absorbency for human use. Incredible story.

Bernie

[NTX5467]

(Just spend "some time" reading posts at BITOG on "additional oil filtration" . . . rather than mowing the back yard . . . AGAIN!)

 

As mentioned, the filtering capabilities of the bypass oil filters are in the 2 micon range.  The reason the bp filters are so large is that for the filtration to get to that finer range AND not be additionally restrictive at LOWER fluid velocity rates in their housing, "size is important".

 

Remember, too, that generally dustier road conditions were "everywhere" in the 1950s, in variable degrees. Engines were "ventilated" with ambient air, either motivated by road speed or positive crankcase ventilation methods.  Piston ring sealing was not what it now is, for comparison, so "blow-by" would exist in varying amounts.  Those combustion byproducts getting into the motor oil's area helped to degrade motor oil's chemistry and could contribute to "accumulations" inside of the crankcase area.  Combine that with lower ambient temperatures and related condensation, and many "bad players" could develop inside of the engine, which the motor oil could control for a period of time before "immunity" issues were defeated, needing an oil change to flush those things out of the system.

 

As engine designs have progressed, they are better-sealed against ambient air's intrusion into the crankcase.  Piston ring sealing is much better and durable, too!  These are a few reasons that modern oil filters are a smaller size than in prior times, plus advances in oil filter media configuration.  Each new GM engine seems to have a newer series of oil filters that make the old PF45/PF30 filters look gargantuan, by comparison.

 

I just finished reading through a thread on the BITOG website.  A new owner of a Lexus 200h (Prius engine) was seeking to extend oil changes with a bypass oil filter addition.  He drove 7K miles/month, so cost reduction was desired.  After the factory warranty period expired, he used used oil analysis to extend the oil change intervals with a particular "High Mileage" oil and the oil company-branded "extended life" oil filter.  By the time of his 4th oil analysis report, they were recommending change intervals well past 25K, with the normal oil filter.  So with the better oils and existing filter media, for a the better-sealed engine and better oils decreasing wear and better machining in production, it seems that modern filters do a great job for us.  Of course, electronic controls of combustion processes (fuel and ignition and gasoline composition for lower emissions) no doubt assist in that process.  And all of this is achieved with a paper filter media air filter, but in many cases, "general environments" are typically not quite as dusty as in prior times.

 

The thread mentioned two modern bypass filter kits, which were interesting and might need some additional research as an option for older engines.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

 

 

[NTX5467]

One of the orientations for the poster to go to bypass oil filtration was a fear of "sludge formation" with time and miles.  A poster pointed out the size of soot particles and how sludge formation happens.

 

Over the past 20 years, some engines have been identified as "sludge monsters", for which the stated OEM oil change interval (the longer, "ideal operational circumstances" interval, rather than the "Severe Duty" maintenance intervals which many owners experience, somewhat unknowingly so), in order to keep their engines running.  Some of these issues related to "hot spots" inside of the engine which would oxidize the oil or other "spots" inside of the engine that never got hot enough to "cook out" the bad components accumulated in the motor oil itself.  One "hot spot" was the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold (in engines in which the bottom of the intake manifold also sealed the lifter valley area of a V-type motor), for example.  When I upgraded my '77 Camaro to a 4bbl (at 92K miles of approx. 4K mile oil change intervals), the bottom of the intake manifold had FEW "stalagtites" on the bottom of the intake manifold in the heat crossover's heat shield.  Many Chevy guys were inquisitive about what kind of oil I used, as it was the least they'd seen on an engine with that many miles.  That would be one type of "hot spot" where oil would oxidize. 

 

With time, engine designs have reduced the prevalence of such hot/cold spots inside of the motor.  Possibly aluminum construction was a contributor to heat transfer, in modern engines?  PLUs better oils since the 1980s AND the modern evolution to the use/OEM recommendation of syn-blend or full-syn motor oils for newer engines!

 

In the end, though, ultimate extended oil change intervals relate to the "gained acidity" of the motor oil, referenced in the decrease in TBN of the motor oil as it's used in the particular application, compared to the TBN the particular motor oil started with "in the bottle".  In those earlier draft tube motors, it could have been reached at about the normal OEM-recommended oil change recommendation, or soon thereafter, in many cases.  NOT related to "grit accumulation" in the oil filter per se.  Several things were "at play", here, which many of us did not know about or understand until decades later.

 

NTX5467

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Does your last paragraph indicate that the 1000 mile oil change interval on our straight eights still, with modern oils, need to be adhered to due to the  "gained acidity" due to engine design?

 

  Ben 

[NTX5467]

Considering that "open" engines of the 1960s had recommended oil change intervals of 3-4000 miles (except for Ford and their 1963 recommendation of 6000 miles) were allowed to be extended, most possibly, from improved motor oils of those times . . . and they have improved from there . . . it would be more "filter-limited" now than "oil-limited" in more recent times, I suspect. 

 

Other than the possibly dusty environments some might be in (temporarily or consistently), the main consideration would kind of parallel the prior "10 Mile Rule", where EACH cold start was followed by 10+ miles of driving, such that the entire engine got up to operating temperature and stayed there long enough to cook out any moisture/condensate from within the engine AND any moisture by-products which might tend to dilute the motor oil's chemistry.

 

I recall that multi-weight oils came about in the earlier 1960s and gained market share in the middle 1960s and later.  Although I was too young to worry about SAE papers or viscosity index numbers back then, some magazine articles suspected that what started out as 10W-30 ended up closer to 10W-20 viscosity, as the earlier viscosity improvers apparently depleted over time, which ALSO led many to NOT use the multi-vis oils, seeking something "more stable" as straight 30 oils (which might shear to a slightly thinner viscosity with use, but not by much).  More advance chemistry led us to more stable multi-vis oils and ultimately to the 10W-50 oils of the early 1970s (BMW currently has a 10W-60 oil spec for some of their motors).  It was later discovered that a build-up of viscosity improvers might compromise the "freeness" of the piston rings in their piston slots, but not with all brands per se (according to an oil rep we used to see at the dealership).

 

At one time, my oil change orientation on my Camaro, as it aged from new, was that after it got to where it took 1qt/4000K miles, with the better oils I had started to use, that if the oil was not "black", I'd add a quart and change it when it was convenient.  Key thing was that it still looked basically "golden" and clear.  As "scientific" as I could do back then.  At one time, I did send off for an oil analysis (when it got to that 'quart down' time and everything came back "good".  I knew the oil was keeping things clean inside, so sludge accumulation was not an issue for me.

 

ONE thing I'd begun to do was that each time I'd change my oil, after I'd let it drain for a while (drops rather than "string"), I'd then pout an extra quart of oil into the engine so that any residual oil below the drain hole level, would additionally be flushed out somewhat.  A "cleaner" oil change, I thought.  Not much added expense to do that, either.

 

Personally, with modern oils, in general (brand, dusty conditions, and zddp levels not in the mix), I don't see why an engine in decent condition with little oil consumption couldn't go 3000 miles or more between changes.  I'd pay attention to how quickly the oil "colored" from blow-by or similar things, with an oil that stayed cleaner longer would mean, to me, that ring sealing was still good, hence the oil change could be extended somewhat.  When catalytic converters and unleaded fuel came out, GM extended their "normal use" oil and filter change intervals to 7500 miles.  By that time, oil filter media had improved, too, which should be at least as good as the most generic filter might be now.  If the engine has a lot of oil "use", it would mean there is a good bit of contamination getting into the crankcase past the rings.  With a limited-use vehicle, adding oil and changing it every so often might be appropriate or whenever it got and stayed "dark" after the oil was added.

 

IF the engine didn't have an oil filter installed from the factory, the 1000 mile interval would also serve to get the grit out of the oil, plus any other contaminants, too.  Filters generally extended the interval as they collected "grit" in them so that the oil's main orientation of "lubricating" was more operative.

 

I would thing, in current times, that a 1000 mile oil change interval might be a little bit of over-kill in our modern times. 

 

And, of course, there can be some differing orientations of when oil should be changed with respect to "winter storage" situations. 

 

NTX5467

[Beemon]

What I've taken away from talking to the local rep for the bypass filter I plan on getting is that they're not necessarily used to lengthen oil life, even though that is a byproduct of filtering condensation and decreasing oil breakdown into harmful acids, but the efficiency to remove particles in the 2 micron range. It's actually more beneficial for newer engines that have machined tolerances within the 5 micron range because you're removing the change of micro sand paper wearing out bearings and rub surfaces. As stated, even the best modern filters only filter down to 15 microns and that's because they need to flow or the pressure build up of a thick filter will bypass the filter all together. That's where longer intervals come in, because those harmful particles you purge with an oil change are no longer the threat they once were. 

[NTX5467]

We can discuss the micron ratings and they are what they are, BUT we also have to consider how many of these microns are in the oil and their dispersed concentration in the oil itself.  It would be easy to claim that extended intervals on many modern V-8s come from the 8 qt oil capacity and smaller oil filters, but we've had 6-8qt oil capacities on medium-duty truck V-8s for years (with "normal" oil filters on them).  The one thing which has changed is the more-effective oil sealing of the newer designs, from the prior designs.  The less intrusion of abrasive items into the oil, the less need for larger filter media surfaces, which apparently has allowed the current OEMs to decrease their oil filter size (at least on GM engines) for the past few generations of engines.

 

As an aside, it was common to use the old PF35 oil filter on Chevy engines rather than the shorter PF25 oil filter.  We KNEW the longer filter was a better choice, BUT I don't recall it really affecting long-term durability as such.  But then, too, people usually got new Chevies every couple of years, back then, so it was a little difficult to track.  On my Camaro, I always used the PF35 filters, with the oil change intervals/orientations I've mentioned, and as it progressed to the 525K miles level, with increasing consumption, it never had an oil pressure issue (turned off the oil light as soon as it fired, no additional sounds, etc).  And there's no reason that newer engines won't do the same with the smaller OEM filters they are coming with.   

 

A key item could be how many microns is the oil film the various "wear" surfaces, thick?  Filtering to 2 microns would be necessary if the oil film is 3 microns thick, but less important if the oil film is 17 microns thick, given equal distribution within the oil liquid.  One of the properties of the oil's additive package is to keep particles in suspension rather than otherwise.  And THIS is where the used oil analysis comes in, to see what "wear metals" are in the used oil, plus other items of interest.

 

We all want to take the best care of our vehicles as we physically can.  Building a vehicle can relate to the time it was designed in and near-future technologies needed for te newer models.  How we co-opt those later improvements can help keep the older vehicles performing well . . . it's always been that way.  As the "designed" technology becomes more distant into the past, compared to current technology, we wonder how what we had back then was ever good enough, compared to what's available now.  As oils have improved, so have filtering media for said oils.  Operating environments are generally better now, too.  For earlier vehicles, adding a quart or two of oil capacity with add-on devices was reasonably easy to do, as it would resultantly slow the progression of any oil dilution activities, resulting in longer oil change intervals (given constant rates of dilution).  This could have been just as beneficial as the desired better filtration issues, on ultimate engine longevity and durability.  But we don't really know which way it went as few people were really looking, back then.

 

We knew which brands of oil had less tendency to "sludge", we knew that oil change intervals were important, related to "sludge", too.  But many engines were being overhauled by the 100K mile range.  If little bearing wear was evident, they didn't get re-used, but replaced and the crank polished as a matter of course.  So, in one respect, if the engine was going to be rebuilt, no real desire to re-use used bearings . . . unless they were just shiny with no grooves.  Remember, too, that the softer bearing materials used back then had "embedability" in them to catch the larger items in the oil.  The harder tri-metal bearings were harder and better for performance engines, but more critical for oil change intervals.

 

The racers who go to a "dry sump" with an oil tank elsewhere in the vehicle, aren't doing that just to have a longer oil change interval, but for other reasons relating to turning and stopping G forces.  Not that a street engine might not do well with one, either.  There are a few current Corvette models with such a factory dry sump system (which has caused some major issues with some oil change people not knowing WHERE to add oil after an oil change!!!

 

Enjoy what you AND your car are doing . . . whenever necessary!

 

NTX5467

 

 

 

[old-tank]

I used the Franz TP filter on my 51 f-1 when it had the flathead (before the nailhead now) as the only filter.  Changed the tp every 1000 miles and oil change at 3000 miles.  At 115,000 miles when I adjusted the valves for the last time the inside of the engine was like now.  A few thousand miles before that I removed the inspection cover over the oil pickup screen and that area was as new also.

It may have been less efficient toward the end because the available tp is now narrower and did not fill the canister.

[60FlatTop]

Well, I piped one in over the weekend.

 

You can bet your Fruit of the Looms we ain't doin' that again!

Bernie

[D Yaros]

3 hours ago, old-tank said:

I used the Franz TP filter on my 51 f-1 when it had the flathead (before the nailhead now) as the only filter.  Changed the tp every 1000 miles and oil change at 3000 miles.  At 115,000 miles when I adjusted the valves for the last time the inside of the engine was like now.  A few thousand miles before that I removed the inspection cover over the oil pickup screen and that area was as new also.

It may have been less efficient toward the end because the available tp is now narrower and did not fill the canister.

My 1976 Ford Pinto had 185K on the odometer and a Franz TP filter on it when I passed the car on to the 2nd owner!

[Beemon]

On 10/13/2016 at 5:48 PM, JamesBulldogMiller55Buick said:

on the V8 322, where would one tap into the oil for a bypass filter?

 

I just wanted to touch up on this, since I finally figured it out myself how my grandfather rigged it up. For the pressure line to the filter, he used a T at the pressure gauge line that used 1/8 NPT male to two 1/8 NPT female ports (one port went to the pressure gauge, the other went to the filter). He then put a 1/8 NPT male to 7/16 JIC male (straight) out of the top port (in parallel to the pressure port - the oil pressure line was mounted perpendicular to the pressure port). A 7/16 JIC female fitting with a 1/4 tube barb then led a rubber high pressure hose to the inlet of the filter. On the outlet side, he used a thru-bolt (meaning there is a hole drilled through the bolt) with a 1/8 NPT tap at the lowest timing cover bolt hole so the oil is fed directly through the bolt and into the pan. He then used a 90* 1/8 NPT male to 7/16 JIC male off that bolt (so it was parallel to the harmonic balancer) and ran the pressure line under the generator and to the outlet port on the filter.

 

I have no idea where to get this thru-bolt, other than through one of the Frantz dealers I have yet to find it. Another option might be the plug on the oil filter housing, simply returning the filtered oil upstream of the regular filter.

 

I picked up a NOS Frantz Filter the other day from a local swap meet for $50. I thought it was a steal considering they go for $160 at a minimum on Ebay and new ones are $260. The instructions say use 2-ply 500 wrap industrial toilet paper, but apparently the 1-ply 1000 Scott roll works the same (it's what all the Diesel boys source, its very similar to the NOS TP I got with the kit). You have to buy the singular roll since apparently only the singular rolls have the 1.5" tube and the packed rolls have the 1.6" tube (can confirm after getting many odd looks comparing tissues at several grocery stores). Everything will be finished tomorrow, so I'll take some photos of the setup if anyone is interested.

Edited October 21, 2016 by Beemon (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

I'm just sitting here with my laptop on my thighs reading this and looking at the roll of toilet paper by my left elbow; thinking about how many things around us that we never use to their full potential.

Great Scott!

Bernie

[EmTee]

Just think: the mountain of all empty TP cardboard rolls would dwarf the pile of discarded tires! 

[NTX5467]

INDUSTRIAL toilet paper???  Good heavens!!!  Never knew!  And Beemon's got some "NOS"!!

 

What's the current "plan" for disposal of the used rolls?  Obviously, a "different channel" than tp would normally follow!

 

NTX5467

[NTX5467]

Rather than a "thru bolt", possibly a "banjo bolt and line" as the end of a brake line, a Holley carb float bowl fuel inlet fitting, or a diesel fuel line fitting and bolt?

 

NTX5467

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

On 10/21/2016 at 3:33 AM, Beemon said:

 

 

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

 

 

 

 Everything will be finished tomorrow, so I'll take some photos of the setup if anyone is interested.

 

 

  Well of course we are!!

 

  Ben

[60FlatTop]

Industrial toilet paper is what they use for tacks.

The big guy at the steel mill eats rails. The nails go into a bucket and the odd tacks are picked up with the industrial toilet paper. It's corrugated and works good.

 

That's the way my Dad used to describe tough guys.

Bernie

[Beemon]

12 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

INDUSTRIAL toilet paper???  Good heavens!!!  Never knew!  And Beemon's got some "NOS"!!

 

What's the current "plan" for disposal of the used rolls?  Obviously, a "different channel" than tp would normally follow!

 

NTX5467

 

I'm going to dispose of them the same way I dispose of the normal filter and oil - drop them off at Autozone lol.

 

11 hours ago, First Born said:

 

 

  Well of course we are!!

 

  Ben

 

Sorry for the delay!

 

The first issue I had was that the 90* fitting I source was too big. It wouldn't clear the harmonic balancer, so I had to re-use the original fitting.

 

Despite technically being the same fitting, I was surprised how different they were in make and look - one is 60 years old after all.

 

 

The shorter fitting went in just right. I put a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer nut and turned the engine over to make sure the crankshaft would clear the thru bolt. I knew it would because it originally did but I just needed that reassurance.

 

 

I ran the oil lines along the heater lines, away from any pulleys or belts. You can see the return line going under the generator and fuel pump - I don't have a photo, but I used a hose retainer on the stud for the shock absorber to keep it in line.

 

 

Here is the T fitting at the pressure line.Getting the pressure line to set right was a bit of a hassle but once everything lined up it was a snap.

 

 

Another snap of the thru bolt line.

 

 

Confirming the singular Scott 1000 rolls have a cardboard diameter of 1.5", the same as the NOS paper.

 

 

How the pressure line is routed, with the return line again going under the generator and fuel pump.

 

 

Final install. I can safely say this is one thing on the engine that doesn't leak oil.... ha... ha... Guess I'll do a TP analysis in 1000 miles? If I get to drive it that much with the weather and visitation.

[NTX5467]

Do the auto supply people know what oil-saturated  tp looks like?  LOL  Might be interesting!  An "education" for them, for sure.

 

Thanks for the great pictures and explanations!

 

NTX5467

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

Thanks for that thorough explanation.

 

[Beemon]

2 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

Do the auto supply people know what oil-saturated  tp looks like?  LOL  Might be interesting!  An "education" for them, for sure.

 

Haha. "Well you see, on older cars they had special cellulose filters for depth filtration. They just happen to look like black toilet paper but I can assure you it's a filter media."

 

Speaking of, I forgot to mention, but I had to remove about 40 wraps for it to fit the can. I also did not use the original mounting bracket and instead made a bracket out of two L brackets for framing 2x4s, drilled to the same bolt hole pattern as the Luber-Finer. A little more work, but no additional harm to the car was done. Maybe some day I'll put the Luber-Finer back on, but they didn't bother to comment when I asked them about the specific micron ratings, only that they're still available for $55 plus freight shipping and a 10% handling fee on top of the combined total. The toilet paper was >2$ and has statistical data to back up it's efficiency...

[60FlatTop]

 

Restraint is my least recognized attribute!

Bernie

[old-tank]

12 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

Do the auto supply people know what oil-saturated  tp looks like?  LOL  Might be interesting!  An "education" for them, for sure.

 

Thanks for the great pictures and explanations!

 

NTX5467

Makes a great accelerant when burning brush.  Or ring your campsite with burning oil soaked TP to keep the bears out.

[NTX5467]

1 hour ago, old-tank said:

Makes a great accelerant when burning brush.  Or ring your campsite with burning oil soaked TP to keep the bears out.

 

Got to be careful to keep everything under control!  Lest Smokey the Bear appears with a frown on his face for "what you've done".

 

NTX5467

[60FlatTop]

You can't handle the truth about the oil soaked toilet paper rolls.