chistech

32' Oldsmobile Deluxe Convertible Roadster

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Got a call today that I’ve been hoping to get and waiting a while for. My buddy from the paint shop called to tell me to get the Olds ready as he wants me to bring it down in a few days. Been working to finish up a last few things on the body including getting all remaining sheet metal stripped and primed, repairing the two rumble seat mounting holes in the rumble lid, and putting the drain groove in the top wood rail of the golf bag door. Also drilled the mounting holes for the heater and the two holes for the heater core tubes. Loaded all the hood panels, the pair of running boards, and the lower radiator apron inside the car for the trip. 

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Considering the amount of work you've done on this, and done very well, the paint phase came up quick. You've rounded second, headed for third and home is in sight.

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Drilled the holes to mount the running board moldings. I’m lucky as many 32’ Olds out there today are missing the board moldings. Had the rechromed and they came out nice. Test fit the moldings to the boards and they look really good. Used my small trim router and a half round bit to make the drain groove on the top of the golf bag door.06F7CE7E-0A65-4709-B7E2-A799CCC2C75C.jpeg.a83868a0c9900c11608f99c5ec574617.jpegEA22D89D-A805-4CCE-A10E-9DFF519DF5AC.jpeg.1861e88438c34f1cf9d23cc711401384.jpeg

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Been doing some last minute work on the two door windows trying to get them to work a little easier. My frames are the aftermarket SS ones and they are a little thick so my neighbor sanded them down and polished them up. The drivers door works good but the passenger door was still tight. After a few hours of this and that (Cabriolet doors are a PITA), I finally figured out the issue. The wood in that door has a slight warp and it makes the center of the rubber channel bind the window. What’s crazy is the passenger door is all original and the drivers door is the one I scarfed in the lower end of the latch side and that door gives me no problem! I finally got it straightened out and the window is working great. Not loose, not tight. 

     I got the manifold back from the machine shop and installed it back on the motor. It was warped pretty bad and he had to take off almost 3/32” to get it true. No wonder the exhaust leaked when I started it up. Can’t figure how the hell I missed that one!

     Worked on the mid bow iron by installing a new blind nut where one was rusted out (they’re welded on) and the sand blasted all the nooks to get it ready to prime. I also got in a glass scratch removal kit I bought off eBay to try and remove all the scratches from my headlight lenses. 32’ Olds use a special lens and they are hard to find. When you do find nice ones, the price is usually in the hundreds. Both my lenses are scratched pretty badly but I have to say the kit works really well. Problem is the kit only has enough discs for about 1 1/2 lenses so I need to order more. It will end up costing about $50 to do both. Not bad and very decent results. It’s hard to see how bad it was scratched in the picture (I’m holding it up to the light coming in my door) but the result is easy to see in the other  two pictures. Took about two hours to do one lens letting my batteries for my drill charge. 

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Got my chassis all set to test drive tonight. Bolted up a test body that I’ve been using on all the cars I work on. An old Chevy blazer seat finishes it of. Started the engine back up tonight, first time since the manifold was surfaced. It ran super nice and it’s ready to be test driven. The problem is starting tomorrow, New England is supposed to have heavy rain for the next few days but I’ll try and fit my little driveway gaunt in. Made up a new video of the car running but it’s too long to post here.

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My good RC plane buddy came over Friday with his high coverage air brush and a mixture of gloss black epoxy enamel and harder. After wiping down my repaired steering wheel and horn button, he shot both with a few coats of the black. The paint used is the same paint we use on our nitromethane powered models and not only is it a hard wearing paint, but it’s resistant to most solvents making it the ideal paint for the steering wheel. I installed the wheel on my spare spider (the good one is at the paint shop), installed the chromed center cup, horn button contacts, and the horn button to test the assembly for full ground. All worked properly. One more step done. Wheel will now come off and be put away until final assembly.

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Put a coat of varnish on my front roof bow today. I purchased this hard to make part from one of the better wood parts suppliers but even this bow, as good as it was, wasn’t completely correct. The ends had been milled to deep where the chrome corner brackets mount which means if left as is, the corner brackets would not have been even with the metal piece and gasket that runs the length of the bow. One end was worse than the other so I cut some ash pieces up and glued them in. Some hand chisel workand sanding finished the job. It will get a few more coats of varnish to seal it up and it will be ready for assembly when the time comes.

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I can only enter a few pictures because m6 iPad takes them in too large of a format. Here’s the rest.

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