2009 Suburban 2500 advice

[Matt Harwood]

So my tow vehicle, a 2009 Chevy Suburban 2500, threw a check engine light a few days ago. I put the code scanner on it and got P0442 which is an EVAP system leak. My first guess was the gas cap but it's fine and the code came back after I re-seated it. So we took it to the dealer. He called this afternoon with a big scare and dance about how the tech saw raw fuel blowing out of the EVAP system and the truck could explode at any minute and I was lucky we didn't all die. He wants $775 to replace the fuel pump assembly, which, apparently will cure the problem.

First, I don't trust them one bit after that bit. I don't think the EVAP system is tied directly to the fuel pump, and if there's a leak, it's probably not in the tank, right?

 

Two, my wife just filled the tank yesterday. Do ya think that's where the fuel is coming from?

 

Three, Really? THAT's the song and dance you're going to give me? A small EVAP system leak and you want to charge me $775 plus $125 in "diagnostic" fees?

 

So here I am wondering what I should do. I don't know enough about these trucks to know if this is a thing. The Google reveals that it's a common code and is usually caused by a bad gas cap or a pinhole leak somewhere in the EVAP system, maybe a failed check valve. They're describing raw fuel being sucked up by the system and spit out all over the place on top of the gas tank. I see no fuel under the truck and smell no fuel around or in it while driving it. My gut says this is BS and they're trying to scare me into a big repair bill. On the other hand, if they're right, my wife and kids ride in this vehicle, so maybe the scare tactic is working.

 

I want to tell them to shove it, but what if I'm wrong and they're right? Anyone have any experience or thoughts? I hate to go to a Chevy truck message board where I'm not a member and be a lame "one and done" poster, but I'm not quite sure what to do. Not too keen on laying out a grand for a maybe, you know? I need the truck for Hershey and I suppose I could get a second opinion, but again, do I want to start this process all over again? What a pain in the ass.

Thanks for your thoughts!

[unimogjohn]

Matt, if is not the gas cap (I would replace it anyway, heck they are only $13).  And I would check for a hole in in the evap line, probably rubbed again the frame or another component.  I really doubt that it has anything to do with the fuel pump.  You must know someone with a lift.  Get it up and look around.  Bet you find it.  If the tech saw fuel, then a line is leaking.  Good luck.  See you at Hershey.  

Edited September 22, 2016 by unimogjohn (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

Well, I went in there this morning to look at it myself and talk to the tech. He put pressure on the filler neck and eventually fuel started bubbling out the top of the gas tank somewhere. Technically, I guess this shouldn't happen, but Melanie filled the tank literally 100 yards from the dealership when we were taking it in yesterday, so it's as full as it can possibly get. My gut says it's just over-filled and the code is unrelated, but gas still shouldn't spill out.

 

I also looked in my owner's manual and I'm about two months away from my emissions warranty expiring and most the EVAP system is covered by some warranty, although they seem to make it deliberately obtuse as to what is and isn't covered. I told them to fix it, but do their best to make it a warranty claim. If not, I guess I'm out $900. Bah.

 

 

[Matt Harwood]

So I'm $1300 poorer and as a bonus, my A/C no longer works. They found a rusted pipe coming out of the fuel pump, so there's a new $775 fuel pump in there. OK, fine. Caused by rust, so I guess not a warranty thing. I'll own it.

 

A/C was also cool but not as cold as I think a vehicle like this should be, so I had them check it before the big Hershey trip. They found a small leak in the line going to the rear A/C system. Fixed it for $650. Called and told me this morning that the compressor has failed and I need to buy a new one for $900. Um, guys? The A/C worked when I brought it in, you "fixed" it until it broke? WTF? Don't fix it, I'll do it myself, give me my truck back.

 

Oh, and there was grease all over the front seat when I picked it up. Made the service guy clean it. He was the one who told me the truck would "explode" if I drove it last week. Go home and get your shine box and STFU. I was not pleasant at that point.

 

Paid them $1300 and took the truck. A/C now totally inop. I'll fix it myself, but it probably won't be working in time to go to Hershey--hopefully it's cool and dry instead of hot and wet.

 

This felt like a HUGE bait-and-switch by the dealer service department. I will not be going back and the $1800 I spent in their parts department last month will be the last of it--I'll go to the other dealer 9 miles away.

 

GM wonders why everyone thinks they suck? It's because they do.

[95Cardinal]

On 9/27/2016 at 5:06 PM, Matt Harwood said:

GM wonders why everyone thinks they suck? It's because they do.

 

Matt,

Remember that dealers are independent business owners and General Managers set very aggressive goals for Service Managers.

A fuel leak is a perfect "fear" marketing opportunity.

 

You could try to get some relief on the A/C issue through GM Customer Service, especially since the compressor failure might be related to the work done by the dealership.

 

If your experience is typical of that dealership, I'm surprised that place was able to keep its franchise during the bankruptcy process.

Edited October 6, 2016 by 95Cardinal
spelling (see edit history)

[edinmass]

In my modern shop we serviced thousands of vehicles per year, the word explode was never used in the entire time I was in business. Cars very rarely catch fire and when they do it's usually related to improper repair and defective workmanship. Fact is many decent local shops have better diagnostic equipment than the dealers. Fact is the fuel pump/sending unit part is very overpriced for what it is, and when available in the aftermarket often only cost one third the dealer part. Often they are made by the same supplier, just diffrent boxes and part numbers are used. 125 dollar diagnostic charge for a fuel leak is excessive. For an engine running problem/check engine light  it is the high side. For both issues it is about right. I gave up having the dealer do my warrantee work on my vehicles, as there are too many comebacks from the kids they have working in the shop. I use my business relationships to get them to give me the parts, and they put in for the install. Works good for both of us. Fact of the matter is most employees in the service department of the dealers ar C rated people. Not the skill set I want working in my cars. Currently I use a speed shop to  service my modern cars. It's more money per hour, but better work is done faster, and I am sure it saves me money in the long run. I won't even discuss restoration shops and their issues.

Edited September 28, 2016 by edinmass (see edit history)

[Steve-V]

Do you need the rear air?  I delete the rear air in cars, taxi minivans, and trucks all the time.  I cut the aluminum line near fittings and seal them up with a pinch, weld, and "glue" on the inside as a security.  I usually charge about $65 + the A/C service.  

 

The failed compressor is a little weary to me... nonetheless things do happen.  You need a better explanation from them...--Case Leaking --Bearing shot -- Face doesn't engage..........?

 

With the tank... probably going to have to drop it and inspect.  I wonder if they did a smoke test on it.

Edited September 30, 2016 by Steve-V (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

Tank is fixed. The did do a smoke test and also pressurized it at the filler neck and gas came pouring out. Found a rust hole in the outlet tube. No way around it.

 

A/C is sort-of fixed. The lines are fixed and I have kids who ride in back, so the rear A/C is a keeper. I'm going to install a new compressor this weekend before Hershey and have it charged on Monday, hopefully so it'll work on the Hershey trip.

 

Right front tire sensor failed today while I was pulling the trailer (empty, fortunately). Apparently it broke off inside the tire and ruined a brand new tire. That's another $330.

 

GM, you suck. How do you guys with the Fords like them?

[FLYER15015]

Geeze Matt, after reading your saga, if you didn't have bad luck, you wouldn't have any.................

 

The only "Ford" I have now is an '02 Lincoln Towncar as my "driver".

However my son has a four door, '06 F-350 dually diesel and he loves it.

Pulls a loaded 18' Pace construction trailer all over Colorado.

Ford diesels make a bit more noise than my Duramax in the Jayco, but he just turns the radio up a bit,

Just my $ .02      and worth every penny.

 

Mike in Colorado

[Marty Roth]

Matt,

 

My 2000 Ford Excursion has the 7.3 turbo-Diesel with 340,xxx miles. It is NOISE PERSONIFIED, and does not pull as well as the newer Duramax. This past January i spent another $4,xxx on internal engine wiring, new injectors, etc. Two years ago the AAMCO dealer in Vineland, NJ replaced the tranny and busted up a lot of other stuff as part of their "free" 128?-point inspection which caused many other repairs during the next thousand miles.

 

I really don't understand why Chevy/GMC has not modified the floor pan of the 3/4 Ton Suburban to accept the Dura-Max and the Allison. You cannot get a diesel in these models - at least since year 2000 - what a pity.

 

My 2002 Suburban and 2006 Avalanche are both 2500 Series with the 8.1L engine, and no problems with either one yet at about 140K on each.

[Peter Zobian]

GM Suburbans are famous for their electrical problems. We have a 2002 Suburban 1500LS with the 5.3 and the Tow Package. There is no mechanical connection between the gas pedal and the Fuel Injection! At about 180,000 miles it developed  a glich in the electronic throttle system. This is code P1125 "Reduced Engine Power Mode". As we were driving the truck,  it would start to "stumble" and then the accelerator pedal would go dead and we would have just enough power to get to the shoulder before the engine quit. After a few minutes we could restart it and drive on until it did it again. We took it to the dealer in California. They claimed nothing was wrong, but the problem didn't go away. We replaced the Fuel Injection Throttle Body and its sensor module. Still had the problem off and on. Drove the truck pulling a trailer to Virginia and it did the same thing several times. Took it to another GM dealer in Galax, VA. They tested it and couldn't find anything wrong. Driving it back to California, it started doing the same thing outside of Nashville. Spent the night in a motel and took it to Black Chevrolet in the morning. They had the truck all day and finally claimed it was a "full" Catalytic Converter. $2,000 later we drove out of Nashville. 15 minutes out it did it again. Finally we replaced the Control Module on the firewall in the engine compartment. That lasted a while, but didn't fix it. Next we replaced the electronic module on the accelerator pedal. That lasted about 2 months before it started doing it again. Going online, it was suggested that we should replace the connectors to the electronic throttle body module, and check the ground strap at the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side on the engine. One person said he had bought 5 brand new accelerator modules and none of them worked for very long. He finally bought a used on out of a junk yard for $5 and that one worked. We still haven't fixed the problem.

Edited October 10, 2017 by Peter Zobian
spelling (see edit history)

[Marty Roth]

On 10/1/2016 at 8:04 AM, Marty Roth said:

Matt,

 

My 2000 Ford Excursion has the 7.3 turbo-Diesel with 340,xxx miles. It is NOISE PERSONIFIED, and does not pull as well as the newer Duramax. This past January i spent another $4,xxx on internal engine wiring, new injectors, etc. Two years ago the AAMCO dealer in Vineland, NJ replaced the tranny and busted up a lot of other stuff as part of their "free" 128?-point inspection which caused many other repairs during the next thousand miles.

 

I really don't understand why Chevy/GMC has not modified the floor pan of the 3/4 Ton Suburban to accept the Dura-Max and the Allison. You cannot get a diesel in these models - at least since year 2000 - what a pity.

 

My 2002 Suburban and 2006 Avalanche are both 2500 Series with the 8.1L engine, and no problems with either one yet at about 140K on each.

 

Here we are almost two years later,

and GM still does not appreciate that they could have a HUGE market for a 2500 Series Suburban/Yukon-XL if they would modify the floor pan to accept the Duramax Diesel and the appropriate RV-style multi-speed tranny !

 

Come=on GM - Wake Up !!

[Matt Harwood]

5 minutes ago, Marty Roth said:

 

Here we are almost two years later,

and GM still does not appreciate that they could have a HUGE market for a 2500 Series Suburban/Yukon-XL if they would modify the floor pan to accept the Duramax Diesel and the appropriate RV-style multi-speed tranny !

 

Come=on GM - Wake Up !!

 

I'd buy one tomorrow if I could get a diesel 2500 Suburban. Our 3/4-ton 2500 Suburban with a gas 6.0 V8 actually pulls pretty well (and the previous issues seem to be fixed, although it cost a lot to get there). However, the 6.0 struggles on hills, though, and often drops down to 4th or even 3rd gear on long uphill slogs. On the way home from Hershey through the mountains, it pulled pretty well with the '41 Buick convertible in the enclosed trailer, but I left two hours before my driver, who has a 2016 Chevy 3500 diesel dually and he was pulling two cars in an enclosed gooseneck. About 4/5 of the way, home, he hammered past me on an uphill run without hesitation. That was pretty darned impressive and suggests that I was wasting a lot of time grinding up the hills at 50 MPH where he didn't even have to slow down. I also stopped for gas where he didn't have to.

 

Sadly, our family needs the Suburban. I can't really justify a Suburban AND a dually, so Suburban it is. I could sure use one with some guts!

[Marty Roth]

1 minute ago, Matt Harwood said:

 

I'd buy one tomorrow if I could get a diesel 2500 Suburban. Our 3/4-ton 2500 Suburban with a gas 6.0 V8 actually pulls pretty well (and the previous issues seem to be fixed, although it cost a lot to get there). However, the 6.0 struggles on hills, though, and often drops down to 4th or even 3rd gear on long uphill slogs. On the way home from Hershey through the mountains, it pulled pretty well with the '41 Buick convertible in the enclosed trailer, but I left two hours before my driver, who has a 2016 Chevy 3500 diesel dually and he was pulling two cars in an enclosed gooseneck. About 4/5 of the way, home, he hammered past me on an uphill run without hesitation. That was pretty darned impressive and suggests that I was wasting a lot of time grinding up the hills at 50 MPH where he didn't even have to slow down. I also stopped for gas where he didn't have to.

 

Sadly, our family needs the Suburban. I can't really justify a Suburban AND a dually, so Suburban it is. I could sure use one with some guts!

 

Our 2002 Suburban 2500 has the 8.1L engine and also lacks the guts of a Duramax Diesel.

We used the 2000 Ford 7.3L  Excursion this year at Hershey, pulling a smaller 24ft trailer with the '30 Packard inside - went from Johnstown to Hershey to New Orleans - better than the Suburban, but still not up to the modern Duramax we could get with a 2500/3500 pickup

[chistech]

It sounds like the dealer vacuumed out your ac system during the repair then didn’t add any oil before recharging it with Freon and running the compressor. The result is always a seized compressor. That dealer owes you a compressor. Try telling them you’re willing to accept a good used unit and see what they say. Yours was used, so having it replaced with a good low mileage used one on their dime is better than installing a new one on your dime. The rusted fuel sender tubing is pretty common and while it’s a PITA repair (especially with a full tank), is absurdly overpriced. These days, I read my own codes, go on the internet to see the best fix, then fix it myself. 

    I own a duramax dually and completely understand the want of suburban owners for a duramax version. Mine is an 08’ and I still run uphills with 15k out back with only the damn noisy clutch fan telling me the truck got hotter going up the hill. No other real sounds whatsoever. I believe GM has been holding out for a slightly smaller duramax engine for the suburbans like what they just came out with for the smaller pickups, it’s just taking too long for the suburban loyals. 

[Marty Roth]

On 4/15/2018 at 8:14 PM, chistech said:

It sounds like the dealer vacuumed out your ac system during the repair then didn’t add any oil before recharging it with Freon and running the compressor. The result is always a seized compressor. That dealer owes you a compressor. Try telling them you’re willing to accept a good used unit and see what they say. Yours was used, so having it replaced with a good low mileage used one on their dime is better than installing a new one on your dime. The rusted fuel sender tubing is pretty common and while it’s a PITA repair (especially with a full tank), is absurdly overpriced. These days, I read my own codes, go on the internet to see the best fix, then fix it myself. 

    I own a duramax dually and completely understand the want of suburban owners for a duramax version. Mine is an 08’ and I still run uphills with 15k out back with only the damn noisy clutch fan telling me the truck got hotter going up the hill. No other real sounds whatsoever. I believe GM has been holding out for a slightly smaller duramax engine for the suburbans like what they just came out with for the smaller pickups, it’s just taking too long for the suburban loyals. 

 

I agree with the need for a Suburban with the DuraMax Diesel and the Allison Tranny, 

but recently became aware that GM no longer produces a 2500 Series Suburban/Yukon-XL !

Can the 1500 Suburban support what we need with a 12,000 payload trailer? 

[Roger Frazee]

6 hours ago, Marty Roth said:

 

I agree with the need for a Suburban with the DuraMax Diesel and the Allison Tranny, 

but recently became aware that GM no longer produces a 2500 Series Suburban/Yukon-XL !

Can the 1500 Suburban support what we need with a 12,000 payload trailer? 

I had to go with a Cadillac Escalade ESV because I couldn't find a Suburban with a 6.2 litre engine.  I hate the ghetto look of the Escalade, but like the way it tows.