jframe Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I am considering replacing the wood on my deluxe interior. My question, if I do it myself, can anybody visually show me how to do the doors front and rear? Do I have to remove the entire panels front and back, or is the wood panel a seperate piece from the door panel itself? I don't want to risk damage to the chrome wood surrounds, and I'm just not sure of the procedure for R&R; the body manual doesn't seem to address this. The console seems pretty self explanatory; I've had most of those pieces out once or twice. I just want some clear direction on the doors and back panels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Mckenzie Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 This is the method i used on my panels from a `63 Deluxe Interior. I`m going to guess that yours will be similar When you remove the back panels and the door panels on the back side you will see where the factory has bent over the tabs to hold the veneered panel to the door and back panel. take some pliers and a screwdriver and straighten out the tabs. Once done remove the veneered panel from the door and back panel. The veneered panel has a trim around the veneer.to remove these I took a piece of hardwood and tapped the end pieces off first and the sides popped off easily. There are small strips of metal that fit inside these moldings to act as joiner strips ,save these for reconstruction.The veneer comes off very easily with a small squirt bottle of lacquer thinner and a bit of persuasion with a putty knife. a heat gun will also work if you dont care to use thinners. Clean up your metal panels,stick the new veneer pieces back in and reverse the aforementioned procedure. I cut my own veneer and used Watco satin lacquer to spray them .A `65 has a black line around the perimeter if you want this you will source them from a vendor. Anyway,this was my experience. It worked well and I am thrilled with the outcome. take your time and have some fun, cheers Scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I just made the Deluxe interior of my 65 and restored the whole thing... Like Scott said, it is quite easy and his description on how to do it is very clear and precise. You can find some additional explaining pictures in my flickr Albums here (specially under the section "Wood Applications" and "Doorpanels"):https://www.flickr.com/photos/142025655@N08/albums Have fun! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I would leave the panel in place on the skin. You can remove the skin from the door to make it easier to work with. The tabs that hold the trim panel to the door skin are very brittle and may break. Remove your wood as mentioned with putty knife and some stripper. I would mask off your vinyl as to not get any on it. Then cut your veneer to fit and use automotive spray adhesive to secure it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 6 hours ago, Schmiddy said: I just made the Deluxe interior of my 65 and restored the whole thing... Like Scott said, it is quite easy and his description on how to do it is very clear and precise. You can find some additional explaining pictures in my flickr Albums here (specially under the section "Wood Applications" and "Doorpanels"):https://www.flickr.com/photos/142025655@N08/albums Have fun! Holy Cow Eric, your work is impressive with excellent photo documentation. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Mckenzie Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I second that ,very nice work . Thank you for taking the time to document your work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riviadrian Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I am also at this point of my interior rebuild. I have just started my research on this while disassembling my door panels. Several posts on this forum suggest using a foil backing behind your veneer for a vapor barrier. Apparently this will keep your veneer from buckling and cracking over time. I noticed when I removed the wood from my panels that there was a foil layer between the metal frame and the wood veneer. As I said, I am still researching the how-to on this forum, so I wish I had more answers. That said, a little more research might just be worth the time. I know I don't want to do this all over again in a few years. Good luck!! -Adrian- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Just be very careful if you decide or need to remove the metal frame from the door skin....those little tabs are very brittle, if they break you will have to come up with a fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jframe Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 1 hour ago, alini said: Just be very careful if you decide or need to remove the metal frame from the door skin....those little tabs are very brittle, if they break you will have to come up with a fix. So I can leave the door panel on the car, and just remove the chrome moldings? I understand it may be easier to work with if the whole panel is off, but I really don't want to take the door panels off unless I just have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 NO the whole door panel needs to be removed, or should be removed from the door to make it easier to work on.....my suggestion is NOT taking the metal frame off the door panel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alini Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 You dont have to remove anything but when you are using chemicals to strip the old adhesive you dont want it getting on your vinyl If you are mechanically removing all the old adhesive you can do it all on the door Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockinRiviDad Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 20 hours ago, Schmiddy said: You can find some additional explaining pictures in my flickr Albums here (specially under the section "Wood Applications" and "Doorpanels"):https://www.flickr.com/photos/142025655@N08/albums Have fun! Great pix...great work...thx for sharing... Questions: were the thin gauge metal inserts that u cut also installed/adhered behind the wood veneer? If so, what is there purpose? Or did u use them only as a template to cut out the veneer? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Mckenzie Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 On 9/19/2016 at 6:14 PM, alini said: Just be very careful if you decide or need to remove the metal frame from the door skin....those little tabs are very brittle, if they break you will have to come up with a fix. Take some 18ga sheet ,cut a piece 1/8 x 1 1/8. Bend at 90 degrees in the center. Apply adhesive in the little channel that the tab broke from and your good to go. I use a Methacrylate adhesive- Plexus or Devcon plastic welder. They both adhere well to steel.In a pinch JB weld or Epoxy should work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Thank you all for your great feedbacks on my photos, I really appreciate! Quote Questions: were the thin gauge metal inserts that u cut also installed/adhered behind the wood veneer? If so, what is there purpose? Or did u use them only as a template to cut out the veneer? For the veneer I had a little different approach as it was original. As Chris mentioned right, the small tabs breaks very easily. So I decided to cut them off and to use small screws instead. Sure, its (a lot) more work, why I did it only on the rear panels and took a loooooot of attention not to break the tabs on the long front door metal plates! Right David, behind the wood, you'll need a very thin metal plate to tape the wood on it. This is needed to give a better stability to the wood veneer. I used a metal sheet of 0.4 milimeter and taped the veneer with a very strong contact spray before I oiled the wood. You have to pay attention that the veneer and metal sheet together is not getting to thick, otherwise you will get some serious problems when you will put back the frame! If you want to use the same method (fixing the ground plate with screw to the door panel), make sure the screw heads are flat and completely sunk, otherwise you won't be able to put the chrome frame back on it! The metal sheet where the veneer is taped on it, doesn't have to be taped on the metal plate, the chrome frame hold it tight enough. As info, I removed all the old door panels completely... they were wavy and the cardboard was damaged on the edges. So I took birch plywood in the same thickness wich is much more stable. I used the old panels as a template for the mass and all holes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 On 20.9.2016 at 1:47 AM, riviadrian said: I am also at this point of my interior rebuild. I have just started my research on this while disassembling my door panels. Several posts on this forum suggest using a foil backing behind your veneer for a vapor barrier. Apparently this will keep your veneer from buckling and cracking over time. I noticed when I removed the wood from my panels that there was a foil layer between the metal frame and the wood veneer. As I said, I am still researching the how-to on this forum, so I wish I had more answers. That said, a little more research might just be worth the time. I know I don't want to do this all over again in a few years. Good luck!! -Adrian- Adrian, The way I did it on my Riv should held the next 50 years ...hmm, well I hope so! If I can help you with additional infos on how I did mine, let me know! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 On 21.9.2016 at 5:33 PM, Scott Mckenzie said: Take some 18ga sheet ,cut a piece 1/8 x 1 1/8. Bend at 90 degrees in the center. Apply adhesive in the little channel that the tab broke from and your good to go. I use a Methacrylate adhesive- Plexus or Devcon plastic welder. They both adhere well to steel.In a pinch JB weld or Epoxy should work. Hey Scott, very good input, good to know for next time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jframe Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 I am thinking that I may do the console first, as a couple of pieces are starting to lift and curl. The doors aren't REAL bad, as seen in this photo. I just want whatever console kit I buy to be a REASONABLE match. Not many pictures of the kits that are available from various sources though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 (edited) Photo definition is not that high, but as I can see, doors looking not that bad... When you speak about "kit", you mean just the veneer, right? I've seen a lot of and some are looking really good! But for me, I wanted a veneer that is not "finished". My goal was to have this "oiled" look on every wooden part. So I decided to make it myself. In my opinion oil finish is so much easier to maintain... when you have hicks or scratches, just polish them gently with smooth steal wool and reoil it with the same oil you used to make the finish - that's all, they will look like new again!!! ...And... it smells so damn good! Disadvantage is, you have no hard coat protective layer ...so you have to take care! (But this is what you do anyway, right? ) Edited September 24, 2016 by Schmiddy (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jframe Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 18 hours ago, Schmiddy said: Photo definition is not that high, but as I can see, doors looking not that bad... When you speak about "kit", you mean just the veneer, right? I've seen a lot of and some are looking really good! But for me, I wanted a veneer that is not "finished". My goal was to have this "oiled" look on every wooden part. So I decided to make it myself. In my opinion oil finish is so much easier to maintain... when you have hicks or scratches, just polish them gently with smooth steal wool and reoil it with the same oil you used to make the finish - that's all, they will look like new again!!! ...And... it smells so damn good! Disadvantage is, you have no hard coat protective layer ...so you have to take care! (But this is what you do anyway, right? ) Your wood looks fabulous! I am considering either the console wood from CARS, OPGI, or Clarks. Clarks is CONSIDERABLY higher, so I am wondering if the quality is a 100 bucks better than from the other two. I am starting to agree about my doors; my car is a 63,000 mile great driver quality, and I am thinking I might be better off just doing the console for mow, since it seems to have the most issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 Is it wood itself or has the shellac just started peeling off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jframe Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 6 minutes ago, RivNut said: Is it wood itself or has the shellac just started peeling off? Think it is the wood. The console lid and shifter surround is flaking little splinters, and I can see metal under the edge of the lid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 8 hours ago, jframe said: Your wood looks fabulous! I am considering either the console wood from CARS, OPGI, or Clarks. Clarks is CONSIDERABLY higher, so I am wondering if the quality is a 100 bucks better than from the other two. I am starting to agree about my doors; my car is a 63,000 mile great driver quality, and I am thinking I might be better off just doing the console for mow, since it seems to have the most issues. Yes, the wood is just awesome - and it was really a fair price! I didn't use all the wood and have some spare if something should happen ;-) I got it from Germany, quality is absolut great! You can get it in rolls: http://en.sg-veneers.com/products/easiwood.html Just consider that when you do the wood parts in different times, it could happen that the woods of doors and console looks a bit different (sun, UV, dryness, etc.). This is why I wanted to oil my woods. If you do that once a year, they will look like new each time you do it If it is "only" the shellac as Ed mentioned, you could try to sand it very, very carefully (original veneer is that thin!), and afterward to treat it the way you want to have it. In my opinion, if one wants to change a wooden part, on should do all parts to have everything in the same look and quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 7 hours ago, jframe said: Think it is the wood. The console lid and shifter surround is flaking little splinters, and I can see metal under the edge of the lid. Oooops, didn't see that answer... Well, in that case, I would consider to change the veneer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 The wood in the trim pieces was originally "quarter sawn walnut" if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Dantana Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 I started redoing the veneer on my 65. bought a roll of quartersawn walnut with 3m backing from H&H hardwoods here in San Diego to start. Used a urethane coat to protect and shine it up, it's a semi-gloss.I'll give a lot of credit to anyone who does this as it was really tricky and time-consuming to get it right.The hardest part thus far has been removing the stainless trim around the pieces on the door.I think I am going to leave them and cut the pieces inside of the trim even though the trim might hold it tight a bit better. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIVNIK Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Unless you need the satisfaction of doing everything yourself the hard way, you might want to take advantage of a wood veneer kit. They are pre-cut, pre-lined, adhesive backed, & usually designed to fit inside the chrome trim, which, like the metal tabs, can be easily damaged. Door panels don't need to be removed or disassembled, although that would probably make the job easier. On the better kits the wood grain is carefully matched down the center from dash to console. Unfortunately, most of the vendors that traditionally carry these have discontinued, but they are still available from OPGI. You biggest problem may be removing & replacing the Riv emblems in the center of the door panels, as they are glued on & easily damaged. Good luck Drew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riviadrian Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 Hey Schmiddy, What product did you use to glue your wood veneer to the metal? I am at this point (again) and don't want to screw it up again. Thanks, -Adrian- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I haven't done this, however, I would think that contact cement would do it. It seems like it would be analogous to Formica installation. Once both surfaces are dry to the touch, place popsicle sticks or something similar between the two surfaces so they can be aligned before 'grabbing'. Then start removing the separators and push the two pieces into contact. Once they meet they're not coming apart... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 The door panels on your car look like mine looked a couple of years ago. It wasn't the wood that had gone bad, it was the shellac that had aged and peeled. I was able to get the old finish off and reapply a new coat of urethane. It looked pretty good. Not as good as a new set would have looked but much, much better and no one seemed to notice. It might be worth a look. Luckily for me on my '63, I didn't have to worry about wood on the console. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) 14 hours ago, riviadrian said: Hey Schmiddy, What product did you use to glue your wood veneer to the metal? I am at this point (again) and don't want to screw it up again. Thanks, -Adrian- Hi Adrian! Wow, you made a great work so far! As I can see, you also choose "the hard way" I used a very normal contact glue. Take a spray, this will allow you to spread it evenly. Procedure +/- like EmTee explained. I did it without using popsicle sticks... see why below. I've done it a little bit different than you would do it with pre-cut veneer from a vendor... You did it also with a non pre-cut veneer, right? So possibly this procedure could help you: I first cut a very thin aluminium sheet (max. 0.5mm) exactly the size and form it needed. (I used the old veneer as template. Don't forget to drill the little holes for the Riviera emblem! If you want to drill after glued, veneer could possibly split) Glue your veneer on the aluminium sheet and grind the supernatants. (For a better liability you can burst the aluminium first - depending on the slickness of the surface) After gluing the veneer on the aluminium sheet the way EmTee described, you will not be obliged to glue it on to the framed trim. The sheet is then thick enough that the original frame can hold it in place very well. And: This way to proceed is very easy and has the advantage of a simple assembly / disassembly Very important is to choose a sheet wich is not too thick, otherwise you will not be able to slide the trim frame over it... I would say, not more than 1mm for sheet and veneer together). Edited January 30, 2017 by Schmiddy (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riviadrian Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Thank you, I used a 3m trim adhesive the first time I tried this and it did not work out. I had to completely remove it all and start all over from scratch. Now I am considering putting wood on my console since I am recovering it currently as well. I always thought the wood seemed a little out of place on a 63 since the console had vinyl. I have pieces of leather (pigskin) cut already to install on the console, just not sure which will wear better/last longer. Thanks for the help! Hopefully mine will turn out better the second time around.. -Adrian- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Oh my... so much work for nothing! I really hope, it will work this time - sure it will! Well, if wood or vinyl on the center console of a '63, is a question for purists ...in my humble opinion, wood makes the interior much more comfortable and a lot more noble than vinyl (or simply black)! So no question for me! Specially if you make the door panels with veneer, to have the center console the same way will be, I think, certainly better matched. But again, this is only my opinion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 The veneers are really nice unless you have an artist for a buddy that will make you dash, console, and door panels from solid 1/4" thick quarter sawn walnut. He even fashioned a solid piece of walnut for the shifter. When I get home, I'll try to post some pictures. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Solid walnut for the shifter is like the cherry on top! After I made my panels and console, I had to have that too!!! (first 2 pics is with original "plastic" piece.) Every wood piece in my 65 is oiled... that means, you can rub the parts when ever you want with new oil and let them look like new again! (Needless to say that the wood smells soooo well with this treatment ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) By the way, Ray Knott the director and publisher of ROA asked me to write an article about veneers in the Riview (the ROA magazine)....I guess, the next issue should contain the first part of the series. Watch for it! Edited January 30, 2017 by Schmiddy typo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnie27 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 I can't wait for the article. Extremely impressed with Eric's Flicker page and the quality of his work. I guess that would fall in the category of Old World Craftsmanship. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Thank you Ronnie, I really appreciate! ??? The articles will content the same pictures I have on flickr, but with descriptions and comments on how I did it and on what one have to take care or be aware. I hope you will like it! P.S.: orthography will be corrected too, my english is really too bad for publish it the way I write! ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I finally got around to posting the pictures of the solid walnut panels that will take the place of the veneer in my '64. The door panels are as is because the car has both power. windows and power vents. The first picture is of a set of door panels on the car of the person who made mine for me. He did things a little differently for his car but you can still see and appreciate the artistry involve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schmiddy Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) Wow Ed, These pieces looks absolutely outstanding! Congrats, the interior of your 64Riv will look realy realy nice with these parts... Even the shift knob has the same shape - I totally love the wood structure and that it is solid and a bit thicker than original... this makes it so special and regal! Welldone Ed, two thumbs up! Edited February 4, 2017 by Schmiddy typo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 5 hours ago, Schmiddy said: Wow Ed, These pieces looks absolutely outstanding! Congrats, the interior of your 64Riv will look realy realy nice with these parts... Even the shift knob has the same shape - I totally love the wood structure and that it is solid and a bit thicker than original... this makes it so special and regal! Welldone Ed, two thumbs up! You need to give the two thumbs up to Tim; he's the artist. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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