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1936 firewall pad


groselle

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Question for the 36 owners (and others).  What sort of padding/cover do you have on the firewall?  Mine seems to have three layers (see photo): outermost layer is a thin cardboard (like is used in door panels) that is partially edged with piping, middle layer is like particle board about 1/2 inch thick, last layer that is against the firewall is the usual jute type insulation I would expect.  All three layers are formed to the bump in the firewall.  It's the wood layer that has me confused.  Any way what did your cars have and what are you using now.  Thanks in advance.

 

Greg

IMG_20160816_180644.jpg

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Greg, My '36  Roadmaster 80C needed this replaced when I restored it. I found the "wood board" to be available as an insulating board used in construction and having a black film on one side. Being several years ago, this may not be available today. I cut it to size flat and then soaked it in a bathtub of water for a couple of days. I was fortunate to have an extra firewall so I clamped and bolted it on that to form the contour and let it dry for a couple of weeks. Cutting the jute and panel board was a snap. A local upholstery shop made the edge welting and sewed it on to the panelboard , I painted it to the original color and  was also able to reuse the special headed bolts and nuts. It was an AACA repeat Grand National and passed all the interior judges scrutiny, I guess.  --Bob--

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Bob, thanks for the insight.  The wood board is in pretty good shape.  I just had never seen anything like it before.  The panel board, however, has completely disintegrated.  Did you have to form the panel board to the firewall or just bolt it in place?  There are enough bolts that I was thinking I could get away with just "forcing" to conform with the bolts.

 

Greg

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Gregg

I have two firewall pads-one of which I have "restored" and the other is untouched but in pretty good shape. Let me know if you would like photos and I would be willing to let you borrow either one for your repair. I actually bought an abs replacement which I used on my mostly restored 36 Special. I intend to use one of the two on the more recent 36 Special which I am presently working on. If you would like photos let me know and I will provide. 

Rod 

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Rod,

 

A couple of pictures would be great.  I've got most of the pieces of mine but it would be good to see a complete one.  Ive looked at the ABS ones but the $250+ price tag is a bit steep.  I think I'll try and remake my own.

 

Greg

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Greg

I'll get a some photos this weekend and forward. Do you want me to send to you or post on this message board? Probably better to your email account so you can enlarge etc may be easier. If so Please forward your email address as I have misplaced it.

Rod

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Greg

Sent photos let me know if you don't receive. On one of the pads I placed a foam backing  with foil jute/under the foam. The other I simply placed a muslin fabric over the horsehair to keep it from further deteriorating. I have not finished the most recent but intend to spray paint with the SEM interior paint. Let me know if you need additional photos or have any questions.

Rod

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's an update on the firewall cover if anyone is interested.  I was able to find a local upholstery shop that had a 4 by 5 foot piece of panel board for only $20.  I used the "horse hair" pad to make a pattern to cut to panel board.  Its a little big, but can be trimmed to size later.  I used my band saw to cut the board which made a nice clean edge.  I then clamped the panel board to the particle board piece with a bunch of woodworkers clamps.  At the suggestion of the upholstery shop I spray it down with water.  After sitting for a day I drilled holes in the panel for where the bolts are and fastened the two boards together with the original bolts and some new fender bolts on each side of the particle board as reinforcement.  I'm going to keep spraying for a couple of days and let it set.  There's one little trouble spot that is bulging up but I used a clamp to take care of it.

 

Once it all sets I'll cut the holes for the wires, etc., paint it and take it to the upholsterer to have piping sewn on the edges like the original.  It was alot cheap than the $260 ones made out of ABS that are sold by some of the vendors, plus its actually more original.

 

Greg

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IMG_20160831_184631.jpg

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  • 6 months later...

Here's an update on the firewall pad.  It didn't take much to get it formed correctly then I cut holes for the bolts, wires, etc.  The cardboard is pretty tough so I drilled the holes using some forstner bits.  Once that was done I gave it a coat of paint for protection.  Then it was off to the upholsterer to have some piping sewn around the bottom half just like the original.  

 

When I went to install it last fall it turns out the particle board piece that goes between the new cover and the firewall had relaxed a bit.   The original bolts were too short to attach it to the firewall, except for two of them.  Then winter set in and nothing has happened until today.  I bought some long carriage bolts and installed them all in the pad and started tightening them.  I figure I'll slowly tighten them over the next month or so to reform the particle board to the firewall.  Then I can reinstall the original bolts.

 

Below are pictures of the finished product before and after installation.

IMG_20161015_144244.jpg

Firewall in.jpg

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Very nice work! Thanks for posting.  I'll be tackling that job this summer.  So what exactly is it that the vendors sell?  

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12 minutes ago, Gary W said:

Very nice work! Thanks for posting.  I'll be tackling that job this summer.  So what exactly is it that the vendors sell?  

Gary, I bought mine from Bobs Automobilia, perfect fit, with all the holes, even the heater holes, all match the firewall. It`s black, and has the leather grainy look with a foil backing and then a layer of jute pad with a stitched on bead across the bottom and up the sides.. I plan to cover the firewall with the same insulation I`ve covered the rest of the interior of the passenger compartment with before installing.. Little pricey, but I`m satisfied.  Tom

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From what I've heard the firewall covers sold by the vendors are well done, as Tom said, and are made of ABS plastic.  My main driver for doing it myself was cost as the current price from the vendors is around $325.  In the end this method cost me $35 and 4 or 5 hours of time.  Plus I enjoy trying to do stuff like this myself.

 

Greg

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Greg, you`ve done a great job on the firewall cover. When I bought mine a few years ago, it was about $100 cheaper and I thought it was reasonable. That`s about the only thing I didn`t do myself. I have a `36 coupe and I made and installed all the door and body wood myself, which was quite an experience.. I`m in the process of prime and paint now, I`m no painter but going to do it myself..   Tom

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Tom,

 

I looked a replacing the firewall pad a few years ago as well.  I remember the pads at the time being in the low 200's but didn't get one at the time. Not sure why the prices jumped so much.  I've done all the painting on my car. This is the first time I've painted one. It looks good from 20 feet which is fine with me. I want a driver not a show car.  The biggest thing I learned was to be patient. The first coat or two wont look that great.  The depth of color comes after several coats. Every time I got in trouble was when I thought I'd just hurry it along.  All that did was guarantee runs.  In the end even with the flaws it's nice to look at and think wow I did that.

Greg

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9 hours ago, groselle said:

Tom,

 

I looked a replacing the firewall pad a few years ago as well.  I remember the pads at the time being in the low 200's but didn't get one at the time. Not sure why the prices jumped so much.  I've done all the painting on my car. This is the first time I've painted one. It looks good from 20 feet which is fine with me. I want a driver not a show car.  The biggest thing I learned was to be patient. The first coat or two wont look that great.  The depth of color comes after several coats. Every time I got in trouble was when I thought I'd just hurry it along.  All that did was guarantee runs.  In the end even with the flaws it's nice to look at and think wow I did that.

Greg

Greg, I`m glad I bought my pad when I did. I just bought the SS trim for my running boards, should have bought them last year for $175, this year $225..  Tom

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Don't mean to hijack thread but where did you get the running board trim. I bought from Max Merrit several years ago but don't know if he still has and need another set.

FYI-I too purchased a abs pad but unfortunately when I installed tightened it a bit too much and it cracked at top. Not really noticeable but irritating. I've kept the firewall pads I have and will use on the other 36 I'm working on.

Thanks

Rod

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23 minutes ago, rlcokc said:

Don't mean to hijack thread but where did you get the running board trim. I bought from Max Merrit several years ago but don't know if he still has and need another set.

FYI-I too purchased a abs pad but unfortunately when I installed tightened it a bit too much and it cracked at top. Not really noticeable but irritating. I've kept the firewall pads I have and will use on the other 36 I'm working on.

Thanks

Rod

Rod, a friend of mine bought his SS trim from Bobs, when he got it, it was from Max Merritt. So I went straight to Max, $12.50/ft and $10 for each end, I got 84" long pointed each end, clips $1.00ea. mine are actually $215.00 plus shipping, I already have clips. They should arrive today.  Direct number for trim 800 472-2573  Other places I checked with only made them in aluminum, which I didn`t want..  Tom

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15 minutes ago, groselle said:

I was about to ask the same question. If prices just keep going up I may pull out the original trim strips and see if they can't be hammered out to look decent.

Greg

Greg, the originals are actually steel with a thin layer of SS on top, if you weren`t aware. A lot of the originals, the steel part has rotted away..  Tom

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I agree re purchasing aluminum--I didn't want either. The ones I received from Merritt looked good and were identical to the beaten up ones I had--they were beyond saving. The only difference was the gap ;on the back side was a little larger than original and the clips had tendency to slip thru the opening. I purchased several different clips to try and make the fit a little more snug and  worked pretty well altho have one clip which is loose. When  I order next set from Merritt am going to purchase a set of his clips  and see if the work. Thanks for response--i didn't know of a different source and when Merritt is gone not sure we'll have a source. 

Rod

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7 hours ago, rlcokc said:

I agree re purchasing aluminum--I didn't want either. The ones I received from Merritt looked good and were identical to the beaten up ones I had--they were beyond saving. The only difference was the gap ;on the back side was a little larger than original and the clips had tendency to slip thru the opening. I purchased several different clips to try and make the fit a little more snug and  worked pretty well altho have one clip which is loose. When  I order next set from Merritt am going to purchase a set of his clips  and see if the work. Thanks for response--i didn't know of a different source and when Merritt is gone not sure we'll have a source. 

Rod

Rod, moldings arrived yesterday and the original type lips I have are too big. Called Merritts back and ordered their clips..  Tom

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kinda funny--had Merritt's website opened as I opened this and saw your message. If you don't mind let me know how the clips fit and if any problem. I too had some clips that were too wide and actually tried grinding off a little on sides to make them fit. I got some clips from restoration specialty and ebay but none seemed to be a really good fit. Either too wide or not wide enough. Seemed strange because not that much difference in width of clips.

Rod 

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46 minutes ago, rlcokc said:

kinda funny--had Merritt's website opened as I opened this and saw your message. If you don't mind let me know how the clips fit and if any problem. I too had some clips that were too wide and actually tried grinding off a little on sides to make them fit. I got some clips from restoration specialty and ebay but none seemed to be a really good fit. Either too wide or not wide enough. Seemed strange because not that much difference in width of clips.

Rod 

Rod, the clips I have(originals I think) and the way they`re made out of one piece of metal, I couldn`t grind the edge without them falling apart, and if I squeezed them to reduce to fit, then the tang is too short to fit thru all the way thru running board edge. I`ll let you know how Merritts fit when they get here...

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Tom,

 

I'm quite interested in the SS trim info as well.  I'm to the point where I could get it installed.  I'm curious as to what kind of clips you're using.  If I remember correctly myu old trim was attached with the kind that are a flat metal tab which goes through a slit in the running board and fenders and then is twisted to hold the trim in place.  Greg

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Tom

Have you installed? Those don't look anything like the ones that are original but with the spring wire looks as if they may be better than the originals. Only issue I see is if the stud fits in the hole in the running board. Being #12 I would think they would. The originals on mine had a clip that inserted withing the stainless trim and then you twisted the part that stuck thru the running board mounting holes. The same thing Greg is describing. Rod

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