Guest Martys LA Auto Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Hello All - I am a new owner of 68' Riviera. Picked the car up about a month ago - outside of the missing chrome trim on the hood and fender letters the vehicle is more or less 100% complete - Except the keys had been lost to time! That all being said, the car came with a new ignition lock cylinder with matched octagonal key.. I was able to find a new NOS ignition switch.. This is where I have hit a total wall. The new ignition lock cylinder with key inserts and seats + locks into the new NOS switch.. But at that point the key is then stuck in the lock cylinder and it does not rotate into any other position while in the switch. I am able to get the lock cylinder out when using a paper clip and pressing in on the button through the key face plate. #QUESTION# once the lock cylinder is seated in the ignition switch, would I be able to rotate the lock cycler into the different positions? Thank you for any help anyone can provide. PS. is there any kind of letter on the badge on the firewall what would indicate if this vehicle is a GS? I realize the package options were subtle.. The key indicator being the fender badges and the Posi rear? Thanks again! Look forward to being a part of this group! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 (edited) Welcome to the wonderful world of Riviera Marty !! Assuming it is the correct lock cylinder, and a correct '68 ignition switch, you should be able to rotate the key and lock cylinder to the various positions. Left for accessories, straight up for the lock position, (...so the key can be removed), and to the right for run and start positions. You can also remove the old lock cylinder housing from the dash to ensure the lock cylinder is working as it should, by removing the notched, threaded ring around the housing, (...which requires a special wrench), and removing the plastic ignition switch bezel, which is secured by a single screw in the top of the plastic bezel. A local lock smith might also be able to solve your dilemma for a nominal fee. There are no identifying letters on the Fisher Body tag that would identify a real GS - the only way to confirm a real GS is by the dealer order/invoice info, or the Buick window sticker that was affixed to a new car. A lot of the 'A9' GS options were also available on non-GS models. The subject is well covered on the ROA website, and in previous questions on this forum. Edited August 9, 2016 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted August 9, 2016 Share Posted August 9, 2016 Randy - thank you so much for the quick reply! Yes the switch is definitely correct, the lock cylinder and the package it came it does say 68' GM.. So I'm wondering if maybe I got a defective lock cylinder or maybe the key it came with was mix matched and not keyed to the tumblers. Anyway, thank you again. I thought I was loosing my mind! Regarding the GS - I did read the ROA article throughly, I'll dig around here to see what I can uncover. Unfortunately I the deal order / invoice is out of the question.. I would't even know where to begin to look as I am likely the at least the 5th owner I believe. Can I ask you what might seem like a dumb question, since you are a GS owner. Would it be a sure fire indicator if there was an additional hole (where the GS badge would have been) that looks correct / matching in the lower quarters following where the letters would normally be? I appreciate your wisdom - I'll be getting some picture up here soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I'll wait till you get some pics up Marty - the correct '68 fender badging would have had 3 holes for 3 mounting pins and are thinner then the fender letters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Thats very helpful Randy - the letter holes have been filled in in with putty, I'll let you know what I find out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Covered holes alone aren't enough of an indicator unless the other visual ID items are in place. Check the stamp on the bottom of driver side left axle tube to determine the axle ratio. Let us know what it is. For example if the car has the 3.42 limited slip axle and a chrome air cleaner lid with patina matching the rest of the car that's a big plus. You have to ask yourself why would someone remove both GS emblems and bondo over the holes. Of course anything is possible but even back in the day, owners wanted to add GS emblems, not remove them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 . . . .in addition - The GS fender badging should follow the letters R-I[V-I-E-R-A on both left and right lower front fenders. There are other ways to identify a GS Marty, but most of those options were available on any Riviera, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 Thanks for jumping in Jason - all the badge letters have been stripped from the car and bondo-ed over. The guy that owned it before me said the guy that owned it before him was planing on doing some kind of custom project with it.. So just to be clear all the fastener holes for the letters have been covered both on the hood and the lower front quarters.. Wondering if there might be a those extra holes where a GS badge may have once been. Also - it appeared that this car once had trim that ran the length of the middle of the door as well ( holes also filled in ) I haven't seen to many Rivieras from this year with that extra trim. Does anyone know if that was a factory option? I plan to check the rear next week when I get back up to the shop. Thanks for indicating where the badge is on the axel. So am I correct in understanding that the Posi Rear was an option, and did not come on all the Rivieras? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 (edited) That was not a factory option Marty, and was probably added or removed by previous owners. Positraction rear end was an option on all '68s. The GS cars came equipped with a 3.42 posi (...axle code PY), which was part of the 'A9' option, or you could also order a 3.42 posi (...code PY), on any '68, or the 3.07 posi (... code PY), which is much more common, or the very rare 3.91 posi (... code PZ). All this, and lots of other info on '68s is available in the '68 Buick Chassis Service Manual, if you don't have one, it would be an ideal first purchase for the car. They are available in printed hard copy, or CD format - it is the 'Bible' for your Riviera, and contains a wealth of information, and answers to questions you haven't even thought of asking yet !! Edited August 10, 2016 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted August 11, 2016 Share Posted August 11, 2016 Randy - you are the man! Thank you again for sharing your wisdom. I'll post pictures and updates on progress if anyone cares to see or hear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 Hi Randy - I feel like I owe you a beer after all the great info you have provided, was hoping to see if you had any opinion about the following? I recently found a NOS 68 buick ignition switch for my Riviera, unfortunately we have found out that it is bad, and the supplier is offering to swap it out with a 67 (they are out of 68's). The guy there has been super helpful and seems knowledgeable as hell.. But will the 67 switch really work in the 68? I've been told the only difference is the fact that the 67' switch does not have the Buzzer terminal, otherwise they are identical. Thank you for any help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Marty - Just my humble opinion; If you trust the advise of your supplier, and it gets you mobile, then go for it - he's probably more knowledgeable in swapping out ignition parts than you or me. The correct '68 switch is a one year only part - (Grp. 2.189 # 1116698), as '69s had the switch located in the steering column, so the '67 without the buzzer may work OK? If it doesn't work, just make sure you can return the '67 switch for a full refund on the two switches. I never liked the buzzer feature of the '68 switch, which served as a reminder that you had left your keys in the ignition when you turned the engine off, to prevent locking your keys in the car. I disconnected the buzzer, which was very annoying, and don't miss this '68 feature at all ! Edited September 1, 2016 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Randy, thanks again for the insight - I was finally able to find a good 68' switch and I got the ol' beast started about a week ago! Whooo! Still a long way to go, but a small victory is still a victory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Glad your mobile Marty, and a small victory is still a victory. Do yourself a big favour and get a `68 Buick Chassis Service Manual, it is the `Bible` for your car, and will answer a lot of questions you haven`t even thought of asking yet ! They are available in hard copy, or CD format from various sources. A `68 Body by Fisher Service Manual, and a `68 Buick Chassis and Body Parts Book are also excellent reference sources, and cover just about everything you may want to know about your `68 Riviera ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Hey Randy, do you know for 100% certain what style the center hood trim was on the 1968 Riviera? I see a lot of pictures that feature the larger center trim with what I will call a "peak" on it, but I was told that is not technically the correct center hood trim for the 68 Riviera and that articular style os for the 67'. So I bought the hood trim that is "flat" is you will, without the "peak" - but I am still bothered by the fact that most pictures of 68's I see have the "peaked" center hood trim, and only a few have the "flat" style. Hope your new year is off to a good start man, got the ol' girl into my dads garage and up on the lift, lots to do this year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Curran Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 The hood trim on the 68 sits taller and has a peak to it. At a quick glance, the 69's look the same but they are not as they are flatter. I don't know if other second gen years are interchangable or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Pat thank you for the quick reply on this - I'll have to go back and get the correct trim! The flatter hood trim definitely does align with the holes and seems to match up, which partially causes some of this confusion as they do seem interchangeable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Curran Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 (edited) I suspect the mounting holes for the hood spear are the same for 68 and 69 as the hood itself is the same although I have never owned a 68. There are a number of differences between those 2 years that are not noticeable at first glance but all the body panels are the same. The rear quarters are the same however the side marker light is slightly larger on the 69. The grille is different and the back up lights on a 68 are in the bumper. The differences are more apparent in the interior though. Edited January 24, 2017 by Pat Curran (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 As Pat stated the mounting holes are identical but the '68 hood spear comes to a peak and stands taller, while a correct '69 is much flatter. '68 and '69s are close kissing cousins and do share quite a few trim pieces that are easily interchangeable between the two years, but they may not actually be correct for the model year. Another subtle difference is hood hinges - they look the same, but '69 hinges allow the hood to open higher than the '68, whooda thunk ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks for the secondary confirmation Randy!! You are a gem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
29 franklin Posted January 29, 2017 Share Posted January 29, 2017 I do not know if anyone is interested but I have a 1968 Riviera left front fender. It is in excellent condition. It has the turn signal light cutout which I think is correct for the GS. The fender came from Ca. but is located in NJ Offers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 16 hours ago, 29 franklin said: I do not know if anyone is interested but I have a 1968 Riviera left front fender. It is in excellent condition. It has the turn signal light cutout which I think is correct for the GS. The fender came from Ca. but is located in NJ Offers? The regular marker lamps were small rectangular openings, while the larger opening was for cornering lamps, which was an option for any Riviera. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hey Guys, I feel like owe you all a few rounds of beer! If the opportunity ever presents itself, I'm buying! That being said, I dropped the fuel tank on the 68 this weekend to clean before trying to run the vehicle with fuel sourced from the tank. Does anyone know if the the sending unit for the 68' Riviera is special in anyway - or would a unit from a Skylark or other 68' GM like an oldsmobile cutlass for example work? Also anyone ever have their QuadraJet rebuilt? Do they make kits for this specific carb? You guys are all a life saver - thanks again as always. PS. 29 Franklin, I'll keep an ear out for anyone looking for a fender for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Contact Jon "The Carb King" Hardgrove about a kit; that's his profession. He makes his kits to fit specific carbs, not a universal kit to fit a bunch of similar carbs. Here's a link to his website. http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/ Or you can send him an email or a PM through this forum. Look for some of his previous posts to see what he can offer you in the way of advice or parts. Ed PS - The Carb King is his display name on the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martys LA Auto Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Thanks for the info on the Carb Shop Rivv Nut! - much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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